Blichmann Boilermaker Reviews

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I would take that handle and remove 3/4 of the offset allowing knuckle clearance with the temp gauge. Your dealing in assembled for them not custom built to your personal liking, leave it or take it with it's flaws.
Sad that the temp gauge is located so high up not a requestion personal location you want but punched by a outside supplier I bet not in house.
Why straight above each other not staggered 15 to 30 degrees at at the same elevations?
Not to offend since i've been accused of "being always negative" on my Blichmann replies.
 
If the clearance is a problem for you set-up, have you thought about rotating the ball valve so that the handle travels on a vertical plane?

I have had a boilermaker for a while and i never even noticed this issue until you pointed it out to me. I have always had my thermometer tipped up and that provides plenty of clearance for working the valve.
 
Unless your pot is going to be 5 ft in the air, you'll need to tip the thermos up any ways. I don't mind banging on Blichmann because they are not the end all be all people think they are, but I don't honestly see your setup being a big problem.

Now, a warped false bottom and a pot full of rust...........
 
Bigelow,

I got two for Christmas and had the same issue. As said above I figured that I would have to tip the the faceplate up anyway to see it properly.

We will see as I set it up, but it seems to me that the ball valve and the thermometer should be on the same plane. Not as neat from a visual perspective but would solve two problems in one.

All in all, though it seems like a nice solid piece of equipment.

Thanks for the post.
 
I am using the Top Tier. I guess for my pot on the top level I will have to just turn the thermometer up before I turn the valve - no big deal.

I agree with you it is a nice piece of equipment and very shinny!
 
Hey guys, I was hoping you could help me out.

I want to purchase the 10 Gallon boilermaker to use a kettle for 5 gallon batches. But after reading and research it still seems these "loaded" boilermakers are missing vital pieces to be complete brew kettles. So if you can help me right my ship i'd appreciate it.


A little background. Right now i do extract batches with partial boils. The first few batches I would use a large nylon filter bag over a bucket to filter break material out and then drain into a carboy. The last several i've used a chiller and then used an auto-siphon to bring my wort directly into the carboy. I would like to reduce these steps and have a kettle with ball-valve that i can simply drain filtered wort into the primary fermenter and be done with it.

That being said...

For my future boilermaker to essentially complete all of this I will need the following "accessories"..

1 - Hop Blocker
1 - Set of Quick connector hardware to connect ball-valve to drainage hose (which size do i need? 1/2" NPT x 3/8"?)
 
I haven't tried mine out yet - busy January - but I think that as long as you use hop bags you don't need the hop blocker. At least I am trying to get by without it.

For the drainage hose just use a SS nipple. I grabbed one off of an old cooler conversion kit that works perfectly. 1/2 inch connector to the ball valve - you pick the size for your hose. No need invest in a quick connect.
 
For my future boilermaker to essentially complete all of this I will need the following "accessories"..

1 - Hop Blocker
1 - Set of Quick connector hardware to connect ball-valve to drainage hose (which size do i need? 1/2" NPT x 3/8"?)

  • You can use a hopblocker or you can do what I do which is whirlpool the wort to cause all of the trub/hops to collect in the center of the kettle. After whirlpooling give it about 30-mins to settle then you can use the ball-valve to transfer the wort since it pulls wort from the side of the kettle and most of the trub/hops have settled in the middle. There's also another product called the HopStopper that looks interesting.
  • Correct, you'd need a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" barb. You can also get these from Home Depot for about $4.
 
When you whirlpool do you...

1. Chill the wort first? I have an immersion chiller so would i chill, then whirlpool?

2. Use the dip tube attachment or simply let the wort drain from the valve opening?
 
Yes, I use an immersion chiller to cool the wort to under 80-degrees. Then I remove the chiller, give the wort a good whirlpooling, cover the wort, then let it sit for about 30-mins to let everything settle in the center of the kettle. I keep the wort covered while chilling/whirlpooling so nothing bad gets in.

Whirlpooling works well most of the time but I have had large objects like clove spices, etc., block the drain tube even when whirlpooling so I'd still recommend using some sort of a screen or hopblocker when brewing with spices or lots of hops. On the rare occasion when my drain tube was blocked I remedied the situation by transferring the wort with a standard racking cane and siphon hose. (side note: always have a racking cane and siphon hose nearby as a backup!) Eventually I will purchase or make something to help prevent these blockages but right now I'm being a tightwad. :D

Definitely use the 1/2" NPT x 3/8" ball valve attachment to transfer the wort to your fermentor. Without this part you wouldn't be able to attach a siphon hose. When using the ball-valve I use a short (4-inch) 3/8" hose to transfer the wort to my fermentor bucket in a "noisy" fashion that also helps aerate the wort.
 
Awesome, thanks for clearing everything up. Currently I use a siphon sprayer so I think i'll keep using 3/8" tubing with the siphon sprayer into the carboy and then top that off with my aeration pump for plenty of aeration.

That HopStopper you linked looks awesome, but it's actually more expensive than the Blichmann Hop Blocker. Don't think i'll get either yet though.
 
Quick question for those who own the 10g pots. I do all grain brew in a bag and was thinking about buying the 10g Blichmann. I am currently only able to do half batches because I only have a 5 gallon pot so I was thinking about buying the Blichmann 10g so I could do full 5 gallon batches.

Do you think this is an ideal pot for what I am trying to do ? Any potential issues that I am not thinking about with this pot ?

I dont want to go out and spend $325 if there is something I am missing. I have built the hop filter in the post above mine.

Thanks for the info.

Edit - Oh and any add ons I should consider ?
 
Quick question for those who own the 10g pots. I do all grain brew in a bag and was thinking about buying the 10g Blichmann. I am currently only able to do half batches because I only have a 5 gallon pot so I was thinking about buying the Blichmann 10g so I could do full 5 gallon batches.

Do you think this is an ideal pot for what I am trying to do ? Any potential issues that I am not thinking about with this pot ?

I dont want to go out and spend $325 if there is something I am missing. I have built the hop filter in the post above mine.

Thanks for the info.

Edit - Oh and any add ons I should consider ?

The 10g kettle works great for 5-gallon BIAB batches. I'd suggest getting the kettle without the built-in thermometer (assuming that's an option) because you'd have to remove it for BIAB anyways. The thermometer probe will snag or block any bag/basket you try to use.

Even though the 10g kettle works great for most 5-gallon batches you may want to consider getting a 15-gal kettle because it will give you more room for brewing very high gravity beers.
 
The 10g kettle works great for 5-gallon BIAB batches. I'd suggest getting the kettle without the built-in thermometer (assuming that's an option) because you'd have to remove it for BIAB anyways. The thermometer probe will snag or block any bag/basket you try to use.

Even though the 10g kettle works great for most 5-gallon batches you may want to consider getting a 15-gal kettle because it will give you more room for brewing very high gravity beers.

I bought it with the probe as it came with it. I am now trying to figure out the best way to get my wort cooled and transfered to the fermenter. I currently brew inside on the stove and have to move my brew pot to the sink to hook up my wort chiller. I was thinking about just buying this stainless 1/2" to 1/2" barb and maybe some short hose.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/s-s-1-2-mpt-x-1-2-barb.html

Blichmann says to not move the pot when full but is that for safety reasons or are they worried about the handles being able to hold that weight ?

I am just trying to figure out the best way to do this.
 
I have two of there fifteen gal boil maker. I my self do not like the pots. They are very pricey for what you get . It is like this i know how to use a drill and I can put a bulkhead fitting into that hole . I just felt for the amount of money I spent there was going to be some good that came out of it besides beer.On both pot the sight glass is not calibrated for the pot,it is like his littel girls put it togeter. Buy the polar ware pot ss nipples are 2.15 and couplings 3.50,so for around half to three quartes of the price you will get ten time the pot . Drill your own holes with a step bit support your friend or local welder and get it weled up you will love it. I know blichmann dose not make his own three peice ball valves but the are good so i would buy those again .
 
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