Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

Williams 728
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ButcherBrew said:
Ibrewdit... Which one did you prefer if you don't mind me asking and how did you add raspberries? Thanks
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Not sure which I prefer. Raspberry just became nice and tart. Really made the blonde for my wife, not my favorite style. She loves both but esp raspberry.

Headed them to ~180 held for a few mins and then dropped them in secondary siphoned from primary on to them. In secondary for a week.
 
I've got a few questions about the yeast and fermentation periods of this recipe. Re: yeast, I had to use Fleishmann's instead of Nottinghams. (I know, I know.) Would that affect the the temperature or length of primary fermentation? Re: fermentation, I've been reading that for ales some people lengthen primary and skip secondary before bottling. Any experiences with that? Right now I've got the 5-gallon extract version in primary.

This is my third beer and first post to HBT. (Total noob.) Thanks for the help!
 
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I'm gonna brew 10 gallon of this tomorrow and I'm gonna use RO water. Can anyone tell me exactly how much gypsum or calcium to add to my water? Also should I try and use a yeast protein?
 
he-brews said:
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I'm gonna brew 10 gallon of this tomorrow and I'm gonna use RO water. Can anyone tell me exactly how much gypsum or calcium to add to my water? Also should I try and use a yeast protein?
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I only use RO water and do not add anything.
 
I also use 100% RO water, in addition to 2% acidulated malt added to the mash, I add 1tsp calcium chloride and 1tsp gypsum to the mash water, nothing to the sparge water.
 
Really! I thought that there had to be nutrients in the water for the yeast to feed on, I have a tester and my water goes from 160 ppm down to about 10 when I check my RO water?
 
he-brews said:
Ok Allen, ill try that, that sounds like a pretty good start for me thanks guys
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If you haven't already, check out the water chemistry primer in the brew science forum (I would link it, but I'm on my phone). It has a lot of useful information dealing with this topic.
 
ayupbrewing said:
Is the reason the extract version doesn't use caramel and vienna just because they are only there for colour in the AG version and that the extract provides enough colour?

Thanks
Ayup!
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Never got an answer on this. Was wondering if my theory about the lack of specialty grains in the extract recipe is correct. Thanks.

Ayup
 
dddppp said:
I've got a few questions about the yeast and fermentation periods of this recipe. Re: yeast, I had to use Fleishmann's instead of Nottinghams. (I know, I know.) Would that affect the the temperature or length of primary fermentation? Re: fermentation, I've been reading that for ales some people lengthen primary and skip secondary before bottling. Any experiences with that? Right now I've got the 5-gallon extract version in primary.

This is my third beer and first post to HBT. (Total noob.) Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Isn't fleishmanns bread yeast or am i way off? If it is go to your home brew store and get some notty or online. I doubt bread yeast would work very well. I never tired it. So5 will work in a pinch, also good to keep on hand since it's dry yeast.
 
shadows69 said:
Isn't fleishmanns bread yeast or am i way off? If it is go to your home brew store and get some notty or online. I doubt bread yeast would work very well. I never tired it. So5 will work in a pinch, also good to keep on hand since it's dry yeast.
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Yup, it's bread yeast. Thanks for the tip. So I can toss additional yeast into the bucket once my brew has already been sitting in primary for a few days (and seemingly/slowly fermenting with the Fleischmann's)?
 
dddppp said:
Yup, it's bread yeast. Thanks for the tip. So I can toss additional yeast into the bucket once my brew has already been sitting in primary for a few days (and seemingly/slowly fermenting with the Fleischmann's)?
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No I don't think that will help you out now. It might be too late. The bread yeast will make beer...but who knows what kind!

If I were you I would just let it go. Next time order some dry ale yeast.
 
jflongo said:
Mine doesn't have a sourness, but a slight slight salty taste, maybe that's from my well water not sure. But it's still pretty good. I may brew this again with filtered water to see if it's different.
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Also, and what do you guys think about this? Should I try some spring water next time, instead of my well water?
 
ayupbrewing said:
Never got an answer on this. Was wondering if my theory about the lack of specialty grains in the extract recipe is correct. Thanks.

Ayup
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I thought your question was already answered. The reason why it isn't in the extract recipe is because victory malt must be mashed.
 
Clifton said:
I thought your question was already answered. The reason why it isn't in the extract recipe is because victory malt must be mashed.
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Thanks. Ok so could I just steep it? Not the same but close right? or would that be a bad idea?

Thanks
 
I can't remember if victory can convert itself. If it can then a long steep (mash) would work.
 
What is a good liquid yeast to use? I have white labs London ale and Belgian wit oN hand... thinking the California ale would work too
 
When I brew it, I use Notty. It is cheap, clean and drops quickly. I can turn this around in 10 days.

It's my go-to beer when I'm in a hurry to get something done for a party, especially when most are not craft beer drinkers
 
CGVT said:
When I brew it, I use Notty. It is cheap, clean and drops quickly. I can turn this around in 10 days.

It's my go-to beer when I'm in a hurry to get something done for a party, especially when most are not craft beer drinkers
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This makes sense of course, I was asking because I have a good system for propagating/saving white labs liquid yeast and am trying to keep the per batch costs down. If I can d o 6 batches per vial WL ~1 per batch. Haven't ever tried saving dry yeast
 
sethlovex said:
This makes sense of course, I was asking because I have a good system for propagating/saving white labs liquid yeast and am trying to keep the per batch costs down. If I can d o 6 batches per vial WL ~1 per batch. Haven't ever tried saving dry yeast
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I don't think that you would want to go with the London or Belgian. I think you want to go as clean as possible and get a crisp dry beer. California Ale would probably be the way to go, imo.
 
Just put this in the carboy. I brewed a half batch (well, 3 gallons) and I decided not to reduce the hop amounts from the original recipe. O.G. was 1.042, tossed in some S-05. Plan to let it sit for 2-3 weeks and see where it's at. Thanks for the recipe.
 
Actually, London Ale yeast might not be that bad with this... you never know... I will try it if I get a spare brew day. Sort of a Centennial Special Bitter sort of creature. Hm. Intrigued.
 
BierMuncher said:
I’ve been tweaking a house ale recipe for a few months now and this is it. This is the recipe that will be a permanent fixture at my house. I’ve brewed it twice, served the first 10 gallons to friends, families and “curious on-lookers”, and just finished the second 10 gallon batch with identical results.

Light and crisp. The IBU’s are on the low side, but there is a nice sweet/spicy balance to the beer. The great fresh taste of a craft ale with an extremely clean finish. This reminds me of what a local craft brewery might come out of the gates with to win over a new market. Very drinkable with wide appeal. I’ve yet to have anyone, even BMC drinkers not say it’s one of the best beers they’ve tasted….period. The secret lies in the name. I moved through Northern Brewer, Nugget and Pearle hops, all in combination with Cascade. Even went with a strict Cascade hop bill, but was just a bit on the tart side for this lighter grain bill.

Once I matched up Centennial as the bittering hop and Cascade as a flavor/aroma hop…that’s when the magic happened.

This is also a simple, hard to screw up recipe. At just around 4%, this is a quaffer. Due to the lighter grain bill…this is easily a beer that can go from grain to glass in 2 weeks (if you keg).

View attachment 3114


****10-Gallon Batch****
Batch Size: 11.00 gal
Boil Size: 13.69 gal
Estimated OG: 1.039 SG
Estimated Color: 3.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.6 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
14.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) (Hydrated)



****5 Gallon Batch****

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 3.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.5 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
7.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
0.75 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) (Hydrated)


Mash at 150 degrees for 60 minutes.
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I'm thinking of doing this as partial mash. What would you do to the recipe?

Also, I have Chinook (13.7% AA) and Willamette (5.9% AA) in the freezer, would they be suitable substitutes for Centennial and Cascade respectively?

Thanks for any info.
Ayup
 
ayupbrewing said:
I'm thinking of doing this as partial mash. What would you do to the recipe?

Also, I have Chinook (13.7% AA) and Willamette (5.9% AA) in the freezer, would they be suitable substitutes for Centennial and Cascade respectively?

Thanks for any info.
Ayup
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Keep the same amount of specialty grains and substitute extract for the 2-row you'll be missing to reach the target OG. I did this recipe as a partial mash, it came out like this:

Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name
5 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US
12.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L
8.0 oz Vienna Malt
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 55.0 min
0.30 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 35.0 min
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)
1 lbs Extra Light Dry Extract

If you can't mash that much grain just reduce the pale malt and increase the DME.
 
brevity said:
Keep the same amount of specialty grains and substitute extract for the 2-row you'll be missing to reach the target OG. I did this recipe as a partial mash, it came out like this:

Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name
5 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US
12.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L
8.0 oz Vienna Malt
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 55.0 min
0.30 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 35.0 min
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)
1 lbs Extra Light Dry Extract

If you can't mash that much grain just reduce the pale malt and increase the DME.
Click to expand...
Yes that would work. Thanks.

Any thoughts on the hops? Sorry, bit of a novice. I think if I put my Chinook in as Centennial and Willamette as Cascade but reduce boil times a little on the Chinook then the bitterness levels we be about right but just not sure on the taste differences?

Cheers.
 
Ok I got RO water, when I'm warming up sparge water do I put the gypsum and chloride in then?
 
ayupbrewing said:
Yes that would work. Thanks.

Any thoughts on the hops? Sorry, bit of a novice. I think if I put my Chinook in as Centennial and Willamette as Cascade but reduce boil times a little on the Chinook then the bitterness levels we be about right but just not sure on the taste differences?

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Chinook and Williamette will be completely different.
 
I have tried additives to RO water and do not notice a bit of difference so I am not sure why people add them. Is there differences in RO water from region to region?
 
orion7144 said:
I have tried additives to RO water and do not notice a bit of difference so I am not sure why people add them. Is there differences in RO water from region to region?
Click to expand...

Something about chloride to sulfate ratios and mash ph something or other and a bunch of other science-y stuff I don't understand. I'm sure everything was explained in the water chemistry primer, but I bought the Cliff notes. Check out the brew science forum, they nerd out on this stuff daily.
 
ayupbrewing said:
Highly informative.
Click to expand...

Maybe he meant to say that using those hops instd of centennial cascade will result in a completely differ end product. In biermunchers first post he says the secret is I the name and describes how he worked through the various hop profiles. I would suggest make the recipes as stated the first time and then toy with differ ingredients.
 

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