Auber pid 2352 set up & operation help

Any Auber experts out there? Let me start off by saying that I am not a high tech person, so I'm having a little trouble understanding how to set this thing up. I've built a new RIMS unit to replace my old one. I'm using a Auber 2352 for temp control. I have it all wired up and ran it through the auto tune procedure. Now here's where my problem starts. I set my target temp to 152 but this thing isnt shutting off at that temp. It just keeps heating. I'm sure this is all operator error. Can anyone explain how to set this up in simple terms? Thanks.

rdkngjoe said:

Any Auber experts out there? Let me start off by saying that I am not a high tech person, so I'm having a little trouble understanding how to set this thing up. I've built a new RIMS unit to replace my old one. I'm using a Auber 2352 for temp control. I have it all wired up and ran it through the auto tune procedure. Now here's where my problem starts. I set my target temp to 152 but this thing isnt shutting off at that temp. It just keeps heating. I'm sure this is all operator error. Can anyone explain how to set this up in simple terms? Thanks.

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does it just keep heating forever, or does it eventually stop and start to let the temp come back down after it overshoots?

During a test run, I set it to 152. It was around 160 when I decided to turn it off and posted this question. So I don't know if it will shut off on its own.

Have you used a second source for temperature. For example, place a secondary thermometer in the water. Make sure that the temperature is actually reading correctly. Mine is WAY off. I have to get a different thermocouple. But I would have never known if it wasn't for my glass thermometer. If you haven't done that. Give it a try. You might be in the same boat as I am.

Hmmmmm....

It might just be a parameter problem. When I heat up my initial water, i tend to overshoot by 3*F or so. This is after some tweaking of the auto-tuned parameters. My auto-tuned would overshoot by a lot more, so I ended up manually tweaking things.

If you can, do the test but don't bail on it unless the temp gets close to boiling. If it's just mis-configured, you can tweak the settings. If it's totally busted, you will need to replace it. But, the only way to know is to let it roll for a while and see what happens.

No need to heat all the way to 152 for a test. 100*F would be fine.

Until I set the offset on mine I was overshooting by 30. It's not even close to accurate until I hit 140ish. Then it's spot on. I've done multiple brews with it and hit numbers perfectly. I believe it's the way my thermocouple is set up. Auto tune also kind of borked my temps too..

I just turned it on again. This time it started to boil, never shut off on its own. Is it normal for the pv reading to keep climbing? It continually climbed up the ladder. It read about 89 when the water started to boil.

pv is "process value". that's the temp being measured by your probe.

dumb question, but is it perhaps set to measure celsius?

Walker, thats a good question. Where or how can I check and adjust that?

it's in the manual. i am in my car commuting right now, so i won't be able to give an answer until i get home.

I'm reading the manual, and I found where I should be able to adjust it, but I'm missing something. It states that the "cool" parameter is where to reset it. The manual refers to different settings in this mode; a, b, c, d. When I go to this mode I'm only finding; 1,2,3 and so on. The manual states that d=1 is for fahrenheit. Not sure how to adjust.

your pid is different than mine, but i will look at the manual when i can. i think the manuel is available online.

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual version 3.4.pdf

Section 4.14
Under the paramater "COOL"
C=0, display unit in ºC.
C=1, display unit in ºF.

Another version of the manual said it was "D" rather than "C", for what it's worth. Section 6.14
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/47402374/AUBER-SYL-PID-TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLER-INSTRUCTION-MANUAL

I had an auber temp gauge and it was programed to celcius out of the box. You can change it in the settings.

klyph said:

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual version 3.4.pdf

Section 4.14
Under the paramater "COOL"
C=0, display unit in ºC.
C=1, display unit in ºF.

Another version of the manual said it was "D" rather than "C", for what it's worth. Section 6.14
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/47402374/AUBER-SYL-PID-TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLER-INSTRUCTION-MANUAL

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sounds like klyph found it already.

so.... was yours set to celsius or farenheit, joe?

Okay, Yes, it was reading celsius. Seems to be working now. I'll run it a few more times before I try to mash with it. Thanks to everyone for the help. Maybe I will try my first batch this weekend. It will be my first brew on my new single tier brew rig.
Salute.

rdkngjoe said:

Okay, Yes, it was reading celsius. Seems to be working now. I'll run it a few more times before I try to mash with it. Thanks to everyone for the help. Maybe I will try my first batch this weekend. It will be my first brew on my new single tier brew rig.
Salute.

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Sweet! Glad the mystery is solved.

One comment though, when it was on Celsius, you said that the water was starting to boil and the probe was only reading 89*C. It should have been reading 100*C at boiling. You'll probably want to calibrate that probe in both boiling water and crushed ice water to see how far off it is from 212*F and 32*F.

You can then enter an offset into the PID to compensate for the error of the probe.

I finally tried out my new rims system and it worked flawlessly, so much easier than my old set up. I just need to perfect my wort chiller to fit my keggle better or visa versa. First batch was a porter, second will be a black ipa. Once again, I thank everyone for their input and help with the auber pid. Cheers.

I just got done wiring up my panel for my RIMS and not trying to hijack your thread have a couple questions.
How long did your auto tune take?
Is the amount of current leak from the SSR to the heating element an issue? Mine is enough to barely light a fluorescent work light.
Also what flow do you guys run your pump at when recirculating the mash?

Thanks everyone

Hey Augie,
Not sure if I'll be much help to you. It seemed to me that auto tune finished fairly quick, but my auber was initially set to celsius instead of farenheit, so I needed to reset that first. I never checked the ssr for current leak, but know it heats my element with no problem. I have only used my system a couple times and have running the pump wide open with good results. I'm using a converted keg as my mash tun and realized I need to use more water than a quart per pound for a 5 gallon batch other wise my mash tends to get stuck and I don't get much output from my march pump. Hope this helps.

the current leak through the SSR is very small. it can cause a low watt bulb to light up, but won't generate any real heat. maybe a couple of watts, which is nothing.

Thanks guys! I am off to the garage to get my panel mounted and start tuning it all.

Try an RTD (resistive thermal device) probe instead of the thermocouple. I had serious problems using a thermocouple. Ruined 3 mashes. They are not linear throughout the brewing range. RTD's are more accurate. Also, if you are measuring multiple pots (mash, sparge, biol) use a PID for EACH. That way each can be tuned to measure accurately. The best way is to go to target temperature using the glass thermometer, then calibrate the PID to that temperature. Although RTD's are more linear than a thermocouple, they still are not entirely linear. Check out The Electric Brewery for further information on RTDs. You can also purchase from The Electric Brewery or Ebay