Electrical Help with Control Panel for Electric Kettle

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TheAleMaster

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I plan on wiring a control panel to control a 4500w kettle. I also have a 15 amp outlet for my pump, although I do not need any kind of control for it (maybe just a switch). I tried to piece together a diagram based on numerous posts I have read here (apologies for the crudeness of the diagram). I was curious if some of you electrical pros could take a look and provide comments/suggestions. I also have a few questions for you.

eKettle Control Panel.png


1. If I wanted to completely kill the element while still letting the PID monitor temperature, where should the kill switch be located?

2. Where would the neutral wire go for the element? Or is it not necessary?

3. I have fuses before the PID. Should I put them before the SSRs on the lines that do not go to the PID?

4. The locking plugs/receptacles, what are the advantages/disadvantages of those? I notice a lot of guys around here use them and was curious as to the reason.

5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?

Thanks in advance.
 
You dont need a switch, you have 2 SSRs....?

No neutral on 240VAC

I think fusing the PID is all you really need, unless you are trying to protect the elements?

Locking receptacles are good if you are worried about them coming unplugged. FWIW I almost need a pry bar to get my 4 prong plug out of the 50A receptacle as it is.

Box material is up to you... both are suitable. I prefered plastic (insulator)
 
I plan on wiring a control panel to control a 4500w kettle. I also have a 15 amp outlet for my pump, although I do not need any kind of control for it (maybe just a switch). I tried to piece together a diagram based on numerous posts I have read here (apologies for the crudeness of the diagram). I was curious if some of you electrical pros could take a look and provide comments/suggestions. I also have a few questions for you.

1. If I wanted to completely kill the element while still letting the PID monitor temperature, where should the kill switch be located?
The best solution would be a 2 pole contactor switching L1 and L2 before it goes into the SSR. contactor

2. Where would the neutral wire go for the element? Or is it not necessary?
Not needed

3. I have fuses before the PID. Should I put them before the SSRs on the lines that do not go to the PID?
Nah

4. The locking plugs/receptacles, what are the advantages/disadvantages of those? I notice a lot of guys around here use them and was curious as to the reason.
Nice to know that the plug is locked into place. Just in case the cord gets tugged on or what not. Nothing mandatory though

5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?
no plastic. Should use metal or fiberglass. Should there be a fire, fiberglass is self extinguishing, not sure about the plastic. I prefer metal. Make sure it is good and grounded so if a wire comes loose and hits it, it will pop the breaker. But fiberglass is just as acceptable.

Thanks in advance.

No problem, sorry I didn't get back to your PM though. I saw it at work and was going to respond later but forgot :(.
 
Do you need a switch if you have 2 SSRs? Can the PID be the switch?
 
CodeRage,
you said
5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?
no plastic, metal of fiberglass.
Did you mean?
No plastic. Metal or Fiberglass is good.
 
My whole electric rig is wood, I am screwed

Dont they make junction boxes, NEMA boxes, out of plastic??
 
My whole electric rig is wood, I am screwed

Dont they make junction boxes, NEMA boxes, out of plastic??

Lol, just keep a fire extinguisher handy. Remember, kill power, then spray.:p

Edit. They do, but when you say plastic that means it could be anything; a radio shack project box or your scooby doo lunch box.
 
Lol, just keep a fire extinguisher handy. Remember, kill power, then spray.:p

Edit. They do, but when you say plastic that means it could be anything; a radio shack project box or your scooby doo lunch box.

Or a tool box like so many have used? I meant, a NEMA box, a junction box, should have been specific.
 
Thanks for your replies (and your PM, CodeRage).

1. I'm not sure why I had two SSRs. I guess I could just run one hot from where it comes in all the way over to the receptacle hitting the contactor.

2. The contactor, I couldn't really tell from the link you posted, but would I need a switch to control it? Like this? I'm basically looking to be able to kill the power at will to the receptacle (and thus the element) while keeping the PID powered.

3. And, yes, when I said plastic I meant one of the NEMA boxes at Home Depot. Definitely not a project enclosure from RadioShack. But thanks for calling that out.
 
Do you need a switch if you have 2 SSRs? Can the PID be the switch?

While it's unlikely that 2 SSRs would fail at once, note that when they do fail, they fail closed - i.e. passing current. I'm with CodeRage - something mechanical should have ultimate say on the flow of power.
 
it can, I feel better with a mechanical disconnect over a piece of silicone.

The one you linked to is an electrical contact (electro-mechanical relay?). So you when you put 120V current on it it closes?

OT: I've seen folks say they use something like that for their emergency off switch (red mushroom button) - I'd think you'd want to kill power to the whole rig, so how do you apply current to the relay if you just cut all the power?? Haven't seen any wiring diagrams, but can't work it out in my head.
 
While it's unlikely that 2 SSRs would fail at once, note that when they do fail, they fail closed - i.e. passing current. I'm with CodeRage - something mechanical should have ultimate say on the flow of power.

Other than as Pol says "I'm gonna die"; Is there any difference as to whether the mechanical switch is before or after the SSR? Is anywhere between the power distribution block and the element OK?
 
Other than as Pol says "I'm gonna die"; Is there any difference as to whether the mechanical switch is before or after the SSR? Is anywhere between the power distribution block and the element OK?

Id have it before... I like to have switches as far upstream as possible for obvious reasons
 
The one you linked to is an electrical contact (electro-mechanical relay?). So you when you put 120V current on it it closes?

OT: I've seen folks say they use something like that for their emergency off switch (red mushroom button) - I'd think you'd want to kill power to the whole rig, so how do you apply current to the relay if you just cut all the power?? Haven't seen any wiring diagrams, but can't work it out in my head.

Yeah, they are like electro mechanicals, their action is a little different but same principle.

In Ohio-Eds electrical question thread we talked about a e-stop circuit at great length, with drawings as well. It may even be in the primer.
 
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