Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?

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ercousin said:
If you are going to be building a cable to plug the 6-20 into your 14-30 dryer outlet, I would be sure to build a 20A breaker into the cable too. That way it's safe. Otherwise you could fry your cable/cooktop if an overcurrent occurs. Also be sure to check if the Megapot is induction ready. The bayou classic's work really well and have a good aspect ratio compared to the wider pots. I've been brewing twice a month for almost 10 months on my setup. I insulated the pot with reflectix and do BIAB.
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ercousin, do you use a basket or false bottom when you BIAB with that pot or just put the bag straight in?
 
carlk47 said:
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ava...r-208-240v-3500-watt/177IC3500 208*240.html

plus..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TVYHXY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Seem like a great combo. Think I know what's going to be on my Xmas list this year!
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This is exactly the setup I have and I love it. I added a 20amp plug in my basement and insulated my kettle and lid with reflectix. It now gets up to temp way faster then on my 12,000 btu Power Burner on my gas stove. When I brewed in the kitchen it would steam up the whole house and it was a pain dragging everything up from the basement and back down again. I am very happy with it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are all Bayou Classic pots induction compatible?

Looking around on the web I find that the pots are reported as about 100 different grades of stainless, most of which are non magnetic.

Common sense tells me that all the pots of the same name are probably the same steel, though.

Anybody had a Bayou classic that didn't work?

cheers.
 
Hey guys, has anyone who owns the IC3500 been concerned with the weight capacity of this burner? I'm hoping to get one for Christmas and am looking at a 10 gal megapot 1.2 as well. Doing BIAB with 8 gal of strike water plus grains and kettle would run upwards of 100 lbs on this burner.

Anyone see any issues with this?
 
armstrong091 said:
Are all Bayou Classic pots induction compatible? Looking around on the web I find that the pots are reported as about 100 different grades of stainless, most of which are non magnetic. Common sense tells me that all the pots of the same name are probably the same steel, though. Anybody had a Bayou classic that didn't work? cheers.
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So far from my research is that all currently made bayou kettles seem to be induction ready. Don't quote me on that though
 
carlk47 said:
Hey guys, has anyone who owns the IC3500 been concerned with the weight capacity of this burner? I'm hoping to get one for Christmas and am looking at a 10 gal megapot 1.2 as well. Doing BIAB with 8 gal of strike water plus grains and kettle would run upwards of 100 lbs on this burner.

Anyone see any issues with this?
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I would not be concerned - the cooktop may not weight much, but it's solid and very durable. I have a heavy 10 gallon stainless brew pot and start my boil with 7.5 to 8 gallons in it. It could easily take another 15 pounds of grain. Tell you what - I'm brewing this weekend and I'll throw my pot on there with 100 pounds of barbell weights just to make sure.

Edit: just added photo of my 12.2 pound brew pot with 115 pounds of weights in it - total of 127 pounds. I'd be comfortable pushing even 200 pounds with it.

20131129_141806.jpg
 
tbelczak said:
I would not be concerned - the cooktop may not weight much, but it's solid and very durable. I have a heavy 10 gallon stainless brew pot and start my boil with 7.5 to 8 gallons in it. It could easily take another 15 pounds of grain. Tell you what - I'm brewing this weekend and I'll throw my pot on there with 100 pounds of barbell weights just to make sure.
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Awesome man that would be great!
 
tbelczak said:
I would not be concerned - the cooktop may not weight much, but it's solid and very durable. I have a heavy 10 gallon stainless brew pot and start my boil with 7.5 to 8 gallons in it. It could easily take another 15 pounds of grain. Tell you what - I'm brewing this weekend and I'll throw my pot on there with 100 pounds of barbell weights just to make sure. Edit: just added photo of my 12.2 pound brew pot with 115 pounds of weights in it - total of 127 pounds. I'd be comfortable pushing even 200 pounds with it.
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Excellent! Thanks for doing that.. Puts my mind at ease about the weight capacity
 
borealis said:
Can I make a plug to used this with my electric range outlet or is that outlet too much amperage?
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The induction hot plate will only draw as much current as it needs, so there's no problem there.

You can always attach appliances that use less current than the outlet can provide (otherwise a table lamp in a 15A socket would be trouble...), but you should never attach appliances that can draw more current than the outlet can provide.
 
brettwasbtd said:
Didn't you get a megapot for Xmas too? Thought I remembered you posting that somewhere. Why not try that?
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Yep sure did! However it had a few dings/dents in it that I was not too happy about, so I am exchanging it for a new one.

Good memory on your part!
 
dyqik said:
The induction hot plate will only draw as much current as it needs, so there's no problem there.

You can always attach appliances that use less current than the outlet can provide (otherwise a table lamp in a 15A socket would be trouble...), but you should never attach appliances that can draw more current than the outlet can provide.
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NO! An appliance should never be plugged into an outlet with a higher rating than the appliance. A table lamp may only use half an amp, but the lamps wiring is rated for 15 amps. Plugging the lamp (or your hotplate) into a 50 amp outlet could cause the wiring to catch fire before the fuse or breaker blows if there is some kind of malfunction.
 
AnOldUR said:
So, you're saying that all UL listed lamps have 14ga (or should it be 12ga for a common 20 amp household circuit) cords? :rolleyes:
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No, but my lay interpretation of NEC 240.5 is that cords for lights/fixtures of 18ga or 16ga can't be on a branch circuit larger than 20A.

For a 40A and 50A circuits looks like the minimum size conductor is 12ga.

I don't believe any of that is intended to imply the wire sizes mentioned are good for what the breakers could supply in terms of regular load. Only that the conductor vs. breaker size has to do with sufficient conductor capacity to withstand the fault current until the breaker trips.

Again, this is only my lay interpretation.
 
whoaru99 said:
No, but my lay interpretation of NEC 240.5 is that cords for lights/fixtures of 18ga or 16ga can't be on a branch circuit larger than 20A.

For a 40A and 50A circuits looks like the minimum size conductor is 12ga.

I don't believe any of that is intended to imply the wire sizes mentioned are good for what the breakers could supply in terms of regular load. Only that the conductor vs. breaker size has to do with sufficient conductor capacity to withstand the fault current until the breaker trips.

Again, this is only my lay interpretation.
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Does anybody know definitively what the answer is here? It makes a big difference to me in terms of even ordering the burner? Thank you.
 
Boralis, more info is needed from you before a definitive answer can be given.

What is the amps rating of the breaker for your dryer?

The induction plate in question is 3500W at 240V which is 15A. If the dryer breaker is 40A or 50A, then post #58 indicates the appliance wire should be 12 gauge. You can check the induction plate specifications on that.

Post #16 suggests a 20A in-line breaker to protect the appliance. The dryer breaker would protect the house wiring.
 
I am hoping to use it on my electric range outlet which is supported by a 50 amp breaker in the panel. The induction burner has a NEMA 6-20P plug.
 
Here's how it SHOULD work in a correctly wired house...
Wires are installed in the house in a gauge that matches the expected load on the circuit, then a breaker is installed that matches the safe load cutoff for that circuit so that if more current than expected is drawn then the breaker trips to prevent fire.

So, if your setup was wired professionally and is on a 50A breaker, then up to 50A total can be pulled on that circuit before the breaker trips to stop the potential overheating.
The breaker is the safety device.
 
I don't claim to know code, but agree with what's been said about the circuit breaker being rated to protect the wiring to the receptacle, not the device plugged into the receptacle. And that you can plug in anything drawing up to the breakers rated amperage. Here’s a company that sells the type of adapter that you’re looking for.

EVSEadapters.com
Note: If you require a NEMA L6-20 connection instead of the L6-30, simply mention it in the notes section when you order and we will make the change. It will be the same price.
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nema10.jpg
 
stevew said:
NO! An appliance should never be plugged into an outlet with a higher rating than the appliance. A table lamp may only use half an amp, but the lamps wiring is rated for 15 amps. Plugging the lamp (or your hotplate) into a 50 amp outlet could cause the wiring to catch fire before the fuse or breaker blows if there is some kind of malfunction.
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Sorry, yes, I ignored the safety issue. This is an issue if the device doesn't have suitable built-in protection to protect itself. A plug-in 15 or 20A breaker or inline fuse would be sufficient if it doesn't. But there's no such thing as "too much current capacity" on a circuit for a correctly functioning appliance, and it can be made safe with minimal work, which was how I interpreted the original question.
 
personally, my policy has always been you can never be too safe. If something happens to the hotplate, say water gets in it, the difference between a 20 fuse and a 50 amp fuse may mean repairing (or just drying) and replacing the hotplate. If it was me I would make the adapter from the oven receptacle to the hotplate using a spa panel from the big box store. That would also provide ground fault protection.
 
AnOldUR said:
I don't claim to know code, but agree with what's been said about the circuit breaker being rated to protect the wiring to the receptacle, not the device plugged into the receptacle. And that you can plug in anything drawing up to the breakers rated amperage. Here’s a company that sells the type of adapter that you’re looking for.
Click to expand...

So you claim not to know Code, yet give information that seems to contradict Code?

Oh, I absolutely agree that the house breaker isn't there to protect the device. Ultimately, the breaker is there to protect you.

However, as mentioned previously, the wires connected to the branch circuit have to be of sufficient size to -

a. create a low enough resistance to trip the breaker in the event of a fault
b. survive the fault current long enough for the breaker to trip, without overheating/starting a fire

A good example of a thin wire on a large breaker is your toaster. That's the type of situation one tries to avoid by not connecting a thin wire (relatively speaking) to a big breaker.
 
What's the gauge of wire in the 3500W induction plate cord? Often it says right on the cable jacket.
 
Thanks for the replies. Alternatively, after looking more in my panel, I have a line with a 20 amp breaker that used to be dedicated to the blower fan of an old garage heater. Could I just use that line and have someone wire it to the appropriate outlet? It would be easier to make the stove outlet work though.
 
borealis said:
Thanks for the replies. Alternatively, after looking more in my panel, I have a line with a 20 amp breaker that used to be dedicated to the blower fan of an old garage heater. Could I just use that line and have someone wire it to the appropriate outlet? It would be easier to make the stove outlet work though.
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If the garage heater was 240V you're probably already there with just the receptacle change.

If the garage heater was 120V, and it is truly a dedicated circuit wired with 12/2 w/ground, then it could be repurposed to a 240V-only (not 120/240V) circuit. Probably would have to do some juggling in the breaker panel to get it connected to a double pole breaker, and ensure the white wire is properly marked to indicate it's a hot wire, etc., etc.
 
I have been active on this thread promoting this induction cooktop, posting photos and videos and answering questions when I can. Though I still love the performance of the unit, I did experience a problem that prevents me from giving it my highest recommendation. I feel I have to share it since my opinion has changed slightly.

I've owned the cooktop just under a year and have made 20 5-gallon batches of beer with it. During my last batch, the unit suddenly shut off just as I reached boiling. I suspected a blown fuse.

The warranty is only 6-months, but I figured since I am not a daily commercial user, they may take this into consideration and provide a replacement or refer me to a local service company and pick up the repair cost. I wrote to the manufacturer (Avantco) and carbon copied WEBstraunt Store, form whom I purchased the product. Avantco could not do anything - they manufacture exclusively for WEBstraunt Store and the warranty is handled through WEBstraunt Store. Bummer.

Though both companies were quick to respond and offered some basic tips, they would not budge on the warranty period. Figuring I was stuck with a dead unit, I ignored the warning not to open the cover (no user-serviceable parts inside) to check things out and see if there is a fuse I could replace myself. There is a 15A 250V fuse soldered to the circuit board with short leads (as shown in photo). Once I tested this with my multimeter and figured it was blown, I peeled the protective coating off to verify.

Hoping the fuse was the only issue and not wanting to go through tedious future replacements, I clipped the fuse leaving the leads as long as possible and soldered some 14 AWG stranded wire onto them - then to a 30A 250V fuse holder. I bought a pack of 15A 250V fuses to have on hand in case this happens again. I will give the maximum setting of 3500W another shot, but 3500W / 240V = 14.58A - very close to the 15A fuse limit. If it blows again, I will just run the cooktop at the 3100W setting in the future. It will still boil, but will take just a bit longer. I did suggest to them that they manufacturer this with a user-replaceable fuse.

So take this for what it's worth. I do like the performance and going induction was the best upgrade I've made to my home brewery. I'm glad the problem was not more serious and I had some very basic electronics experience (and professionals to brain-pick) to fix this myself. The short lifespan and unwillingness to budge on the warranty did sour my impression of the manufacturer and retailer, but I'm glad I'm at least not left with a brick.

Hope this helps, but I suspect if you're like me, it will make the purchase decision even harder. I tend to ignore isolated bad reviews and chance it! All the reviews I could find on this are at WEBstrauntstore.com (basically the private label owner/exclusive distributor), who may just remove the negative ones. I know I have not read anything bad about this unit in my previous research.

fuse.jpg
 
Thanks tbelczak! This is unfortunate. I have being saving up for this and other items to get my basement electric setup done. I unfortunately have already spent out the money for the electrical and specifically for this induction cooktop :(. I guess I will still end up going with this and just be careful on the power setting/usage. I think in my electrical(very limited) research, the 240v can vary on your location +/- a few volts. Is it possible your house may have a lower voltage coming in (or did for that short period of time) causing it to blow? I guess any voltage below 233.33 would put you over 15 amps at the 3500watt setting.

Since you did open it up...did you potentially see anyway to provide an external control for the power? Something that could be useful for temp controlling?
 
As a general rule, one should not replace a fast blow fuse with a slow blow fuse. The reverse isn't usually a problem other than you're pretty likely to blow a fast blow fuse of the same rating where a slow blow was originally spec'ed.
 
brettwasbtd said:
I guess any voltage below 233.33 would put you over 15 amps at the 3500watt setting.
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Don't know the electrical load nature of this thing but decreasing voltage doesn't necessarily mean increasing current. For some devices that's true, for others it's not.
 
whoaru99 said:
Don't know the electrical load nature of this thing but decreasing voltage doesn't necessarily mean increasing current. For some devices that's true, for others it's not.
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For purely resistive devices, like a normal heating elements, it's the opposite - high voltage = high current and low voltage = low current.
 
dyqik said:
For purely resistive devices, like a normal heating elements, it's the opposite - high voltage = high current and low voltage = low current.
Click to expand...
Anyone know if an induction heater works as a "resistive device" or is somehow different?
 

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