Can't stop a leak on ball valve install

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bd2xu

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I have a 9 gallon Bayou classic thin (very thin) stainless pot that I've been using for my boil pot for extract brewing. I am trying to make the jump to all grain and bought a stainless ball valve to install. Used a #4, 7/8 step bit to drill a hole and removed the burrs with a dremel.

For the life of me I can't get the ball valve installed without a leak. I have the orange O ring it came with on the inside, then the washer, then the female to female coupler. On the outside it's washer the ball valve fitting. Pretty sure I have it installed right but no matter how hard I tighten it I still have leaks. It does seem like the hole is a little big (not sure how as I used the 7/8 step bit and went all the way through, but the O ring more than covers it. Driving me crazy, any ideas of common causes and fixes? Maybe I should add another O ring to the outside as well?
 
Assuming you did use enough tape to keep fluids from running down the threads,
I wonder if the nipple is bottoming out too soon. Once you have everything as tight as you can get it, does the whole valve/o-ring/coupler assembly resist twisting? Ie, do you think you're getting that o-ring "squished" enough to seal?

You might try to find an additional washer, and either put that one on the outside of the kettle, or behind the original washer. It may let you get the assembly tighter...

Cheers!
 
i had a valve kit like yours and it leaked until i did 2 things .. cover the thread channels well in teflon tape, and "order" a locknut with a groove in it .. i also got an assortment of gaskets including silicone flat washers as the large rounded orings seem to shift too much .. below is a link to a locknut like what im talking about

good luck!

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_39&product_id=56
 
day_trippr said:
Assuming you did use enough tape to keep fluids from running down the threads,
I wonder if the nipple is bottoming out too soon. Once you have everything as tight as you can get it, does the whole valve/o-ring/coupler assembly resist twisting? Ie, do you think you're getting that o-ring "squished" enough to seal?

You might try to find an additional washer, and either put that one on the outside of the kettle, or behind the original washer. It may let you get the assembly tighter...

Cheers!

I covered the threads with Teflon tape, wrapped it twice. I've always read not to put too much Teflon tape on, less is better. How many wraps are you supposed to do?

I did have the problem with it bottoming out so I added another washer to the outside. It was one I already had and I drilled it out with my step bit. So pretty sure that's not the issue.

I'm definitely getting it squished tight but at a point the whole thing does move. But it's very tight.

I'm afraid the hole is a little too big and/or since the walls are so thin they did bend a little when I drilled. I think next I will try another o ring this one on the outside and if that doesn't work then one of the Teflon disks that are supposed to work for bigger holes.
 
If you think the hole might be a bit "twisted", you could remove the o-ring and crank the remaining bits together, and if the nipple doesn't bottom out the hole should "flatten".

That said, I've read of folks having success cutting their own "custom" gaskets from silicone sheet and curing problematic bulkhead installations.

Also, the grooved nut suggested earlier might help. I have one of those on my MLT and it keeps the o-ring from slipping/squishing out of round. But that might not help if your hole is too large or ovaled...

Cheers!
 
Go to a plumbing supply and get a couple of copper washers that should solve your problem
 
pigsaarz said:
Go to a plumbing supply and get a couple of copper washers that should solve your problem

Copper washers? Would I be using those to shim it or to create a seal? I don't see how copper against stainless steel would create a seal?
 
It's entirely possible you could have tightened them too much. Take it apart and reinstall the bulkhead, but only hand tighten it, and then give it an extra quarter turn or so.
 
I had the same problem with a similar weldless kit that I used and it leaked until I tried the silicon o-ring on the outside. Only problem I have now is if I over tighten the ball valve I can break the o-ring. I think adding a locknut would solve that problem though
 
I has similar problems with various bulkhead kits over the years. I could get them mostly sealed but always had small leaks. I now use the bulkhead kits from bargain fittings. The one with the washer welded on and they and they never leak. And I don't even have it screwed down super right. The silicone gasket they include is pretty big and should help your situation. My first brew kettle I did I made the hole a little big and jacked up and their kit installed without any leaks on that one too. If you ever do another kettle a step bit is the best thing to use. I got a perfect hole on my new kettle using one.
 
jtejedor said:
I has similar problems with various bulkhead kits over the years. I could get them mostly sealed but always had small leaks. I now use the bulkhead kits from bargain fittings. The one with the washer welded on and they and they never leak. And I don't even have it screwed down super right. The silicone gasket they include is pretty big and should help your situation. My first brew kettle I did I made the hole a little big and jacked up and their kit installed without any leaks on that one too. If you ever do another kettle a step bit is the best thing to use. I got a perfect hole on my new kettle using one.

Thanks great advice from all. Will be ordering my welded washer and disc style gasket today. I did use a step bit but the pot is so thin it bends when you apply pressure.
 
Thanks all, just ordered a few items from bargainsupply.com, this should do the trick
- 2 silicone washers (the clear ones)
- 4 1/2 O-rings
- the recessed nut (for O-rings)
- 2 extra SS washers

should be able to make this stuff work and have some leftovers for the next project!
 
Copper washers? Would I be using those to shim it or to create a seal? I don't see how copper against stainless steel would create a seal?

The copper washers are soft and quite thick they are designed for the problem you have described, now that you have already ordered other items try those if that doesn't work try the copper washers.Good luck with it anyhow.
 
Thanks all, just ordered a few items from bargainsupply.com, this should do the trick
- 2 silicone washers (the clear ones)
- 4 1/2 O-rings
- the recessed nut (for O-rings)
- 2 extra SS washers

should be able to make this stuff work and have some leftovers for the next project!

Morebeer recommends 5 wraps of teflon tape on SS fittings. I always use 5. I have tried 2 and 3 and always had leaks, even with thermometers.
 
thanks i will try that, I thought i heard somewhere less is more. I don't think this where it's leaking but worth a shot
 
funny you're talking about that ! Last friday, I installed exactly the same weldless kit to my aluminium kettle and sure enough, it leaked ! Took me 3 hours to figure it out....What solved the problem was adding one more washer that I place between the o-ring and the ball valve. The o-ring now sits on the outside, which is the opposite of what was stated in the intructions.

Here's the order : ball valve, washer (the one I added to the kit), o-ring, kettle wall, ss washer, coupler.

leak free !
 
Fixed! Got my shipment from bargain fittings. Order is

Ball valve, 2 washers, silicon washer, wall of pot, silicon washer, washer, female to female coupler.

I had to put a second silicon washer on (on the outside) as it still leaked with one. Brew on! Doing my first all grain today, a Sweetwater IPA clone.
 
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