Looking for a good Hop Schedule for an IPA in the range of 5.5%...

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Willie3

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The grain bill

81% Row Marris Otter
17% Caramel 20
1% Caramunich
1% Lite Chocolate

At 70% Efficiency it comes to EOG of about 58Gpts
(I will reach closer to 80% on my system nearing an EOG of about 62Gpts)

I would like to end up with 60-70 IBUs with more of a citrusy taste and aroma (pineapple, grapefruit and orange) from hops by incorporating hopbursting - hop additions later in the boil and dry hopping.

Centennial
Cluster
Chinook
Cascade
Amarillo

I have searched IPA recipes but have not found the information I am looking for although some very interesting schedules.

This beer is for a Summer Block Party a couple of us homebrewers are putting together. Although I love Hoppy beers, I find that I normally brew English Milds and Bitters w/Noble hops, so any advice is appreciated. :rockin:
 
OK I am leaning towards something like this:

Bittering - Chinook Pineaopple Hints
Late Kettle - Centennial Grapefruit Hints
Late Kettle - Sorachi Ace Lemon Hints
Finish/Dry - Cascade Grapefruit Hints

Thoughts

WW
 
I've got no experience with Sorachi Ace, but I would never leave out Amarillo for late/dry hopping an IPA in combination with Centennial and Cascade.

I think your Caramel 20 is far too high, unless you want a sweet beer.
 
I was trying to hit HUP's Organic IPA profile this weekend which is listed at 75 IBUs.

They use Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade. So I played around with some software and ended up using this:

1 oz Amarillo - 60 minutes
1.5 Centennial - 15 minutes
1 oz Cascade and .5 oz Centennial - 10 minutes
1 oz Cascade - 5 minutes

For 5 gallons, IBU's calculated out at 73.5

(I also made a hop tea in my French Press for aroma and a little more flavor but don't expect that to alter my IBU's much if at all.)
 
I was trying to hit HUP's Organic IPA profile this weekend which is listed at 75 IBUs.

They use Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade. So I played around with some software and ended up using this:

1 oz Amarillo - 60 minutes
1.5 Centennial - 15 minutes
1 oz Cascade and .5 oz Centennial - 10 minutes
1 oz Cascade - 5 minutes

For 5 gallons, IBU's calculated out at 73.5

(I also made a hop tea in my French Press for aroma and a little more flavor but don't expect that to alter my IBU's much if at all.)

I think you're "wasting" amarillo by using it for bittering. I'd use the amarillo in tlate additions, either at 5 minutes with the cascade or at flame out. I'd use centennial for bittering, or add another hop like chinook or galena for bittering.
 
Thanks for the advice Yooper. I was surprised that the Amarillo hops had 9.7%AA so I used them for bittering. Doesn't that seem high to you?

My tea contained all 3 hops, so I hope that some of the Amarillo comes through.

But making note of alternative bittering hops to use. Thanks again!
 
My amarillo (bought a pound from hopsdirect) is 9.5%, so I think it's pretty typical.

You won't hurt a thing by using them for bittering, of course! I just love the "in your face" citrusy flavor so much that I enjoy using them for late hops additions and of course for dryhopping.

Richbrewer made a SMaSH a couple of years ago with maris otter and amarillo hops, and it was fantastic. Not too hoppy, hopped probably like lower IBU APA, but the flavor was wonderful. That started me on this love affair with amarillo hops.

Anyway, Willie3, the point is that amarillo is awesome in later additions of you want a citrusy but "clean" flavor and aroma. I also like a mixture of hops, like simcoe/amarillo for flame out for example. Instead of hopping with one hop variety for flavor, another for aroma, another for dryhopping, I'd consider using each hop at multiple times. I like a 15 minute, 10 minute, 5 minute, 0 schedule myself for many IPAs.
 
Look at Jamil's Evil Twin hop schedule:

0.5 oz. (14 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% alpha acid (20 min.) (6.4 IBU)
0.5 oz. (14 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% alpha acid (20 min.) (4.5 IBU)
1 oz. (28 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% alpha acid (10 min.) (7.6 IBU)
1 oz. (28 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% alpha acid (10 min.) (5.3 IBU)
1 oz. (28 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% alpha acid (0 min.) (0 IBU)
1 oz. (28 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% alpha acid (0 min.) (0 IBU)

Then add enough of anything at 60 min to put the IBU where you want it. FWIW this recipe is designed without any early hops editions - late only.
 
Thanks Yoop and Jldc and others that responded. I have Amarillo and was going to use it but then read that S. Ace is lemony. I was looking to get a "punchy" citrusy flavor/aroma and I like that idea of mixing at each addition. I will think this over and do a little research to see if I can come up with a Burst schedule with all the hops mentioned in this thread.

Thanks again for all your invaluable insight. Time to design again....

Warren
 
My amarillo (bought a pound from hopsdirect) is 9.5%, so I think it's pretty typical.

You won't hurt a thing by using them for bittering, of course! I just love the "in your face" citrusy flavor so much that I enjoy using them for late hops additions and of course for dryhopping.

Richbrewer made a SMaSH a couple of years ago with maris otter and amarillo hops, and it was fantastic. Not too hoppy, hopped probably like lower IBU APA, but the flavor was wonderful. That started me on this love affair with amarillo hops.

Anyway, Willie3, the point is that amarillo is awesome in later additions of you want a citrusy but "clean" flavor and aroma. I also like a mixture of hops, like simcoe/amarillo for flame out for example. Instead of hopping with one hop variety for flavor, another for aroma, another for dryhopping, I'd consider using each hop at multiple times. I like a 15 minute, 10 minute, 5 minute, 0 schedule myself for many IPAs.


Is dry hopping still necesary in an IPA if you really throw a lot in at flameout? I think I'm going to avoid DH if possible, it just seems like a pain.
 
You don't have to (it's your own beer). But dry hopping is easy, and it's the way to go if you want strong hop aroma. Just throw them loose into the fermenter when fermentation has started subsiding. Rack from under them if using flowers, and if using pellets, you can make them drop out by cold crashing after a couple of weeks.
 
Simcoe and Cascade work well together and as a burst/dryhop they have a great flavor and nose. My personal favorite.

Bull
 
Is dry hopping still necesary in an IPA if you really throw a lot in at flameout? I think I'm going to avoid DH if possible, it just seems like a pain.

Fermentation will scrub a good amount of the aroma and flavor away. It is not necessary but it will provide an excellent nose to your beer along with a percieved bitterness that cannot be matched with kettle additions.

From my experience in Dry Hopping, it is not that big of a deal if you are used to racking into a bright tank or secondary. I just take sanitized glass marbles throw them in a mesh bag with pellet hops of choice and place it into the secondary. Then I rack the beer on top as if I were secondarying the beer, only now I have a bag full of aroma hops included.

Cleaning the carboy and extracting the bag is not a big deal either, really is just cleaning a carboy as normal only have to take the extra step of removing the bag, which is quite easy with the marbles.

WW
 
I'd bitter with Chinook and then do late additions with Centennial & Amarillo. Then DH with a combination of the three. I personally don't like to bitter with Centennial, it seems to bring a real bitter/grassy flavor that's not at all pleasant to me. IMO, it's best suited for later additions.
 
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