Asco Red Hat Valves

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Lonnie Mac said:
You should be able to use the Hurricane burners just fine in your stand. I use the 10 jet low pressure burners and LOVE them... I have seen several with the 20 jet though; but I have seen many Brutus'ess with every burner I could imagine now too... I would say that it is up to you and what you are happy with!

:)

Thanks for stopping by Lonnie Mac. Lots of Brutus builds going on around here!
Your input is always appreciated.

KD
 
NC valves will stay closed in power loss... This is one of the main reasons we don't want NO valves with a standing pilot, in power loss, every burner would fire... No big deal while attended, just cause a bit of running around and WTF's...

:)
 
korndog said:
Thanks for stopping by Lonnie Mac. Lots of Brutus builds going on around here!
Your input is always appreciated.

KD

Ah thanks! Yes, I finally realized that I could change my own screen name... So hence fourth, Colplink had to go!

:)
 
NBR seals on solenoid valves operating at 1/2 PSI will work fine, if you were looking at 20 PSI and locate the valves where temperatures would be over 180 Deg then Viton would be the choice. Remember when you are routing the piping and valves the radiant heat from the burners could cause problems, would recommend a heat shield if valves are exposed to radiant heat from burners.
 
Lonnie Mac said:
You should be able to use the Hurricane burners just fine in your stand. I use the 10 jet low pressure burners and LOVE them... I have seen several with the 20 jet though; but I have seen many Brutus'ess with every burner I could imagine now too... I would say that it is up to you and what you are happy with!

:)

Great news, and thanks Lonnie. We have spoken a few times via email.

So im going to use my 2 Hurricanes for the MT and HLT and just purchase one 20 jet burner for the brew kettle. The jet burners require a .4 low pressure regulator such as this one.

I have this one[item #7335] that i use for the Hurricanes. I imagine i wont need to but a new regulator, if im going to supply LP via a gas manifold or beam?
 
So my guess is that the high pressure regulator will not work with the low pressure burners. Maybe someone has tried. Seems that you will need to have two regulators for your rig, the one you have for your hurricane burners and a low pressure regulator (in your first link) for the low pressure burner. This may require a bit of bottle swapping unless you have two bottles. You just may be limited with one bottle as to what you will be able to do at any one time...
 
Sounds like i'm better off just buying a third Hurricane burner and wont have to deal with additional regulators and/or tanks.
 
For those of you who might be looking for an alternative to the ASCO valves, STC makes a similar valve in a variety of configurations that mirror the ASCO specs.

The STCs arent as common on eBay but run considerably cheaper new from suppliers online. I was all set to go with the ASCO 8210 series and ended up buying the STC 2w160 series. You can get them pretty much any size you want.

I found this company that has a very good variety of them with what appeared to be great pricing. Picked up to for less than $100 with shipping.

http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/Categories?sfs=eb68128f
 
Well, after all of my research and purchases, my friend talked me into going with a spark ignition system. He made me an offer I couldn't refuse (sell me parts dirt cheap, install and wire for me). So, I will be selling my Asco 8210G075's and Basso pilot valves. If anyone has any interest, please PM me. They were not cheap, but I will naturally discount them somewhat. Brand new in box.

KD
 
What exactly did you end up going with? I was leaning that way also, but was having trouble figuring out exactly what I need. I will be using propane.
 
SuperiorBrew said:
What exactly did you end up going with? I was leaning that way also, but was having trouble figuring out exactly what I need. I will be using propane.

Honeywell dual combination valve. It's going to be a vr820 I think with LP conversion kit. Honeywell ignition module. Combination sensor pilot burner. It's really not complicated, and Kladue has all the information in this thread. You will need a 24v power source in your enclosure. I am planning on using B3 low pressure regulator. All that said, I am going to be relying on someone who has done this before. Wiring for the system in also in this thread.

KD
 
kladue said:
Looks like the pilot is in a good spot, the flame can be adjusted on the valve to provide large enough flame to reliably light burner jet. You might try using a pipe plug in both sides of pilot opening of burner and drill through square head of plug and use long #8 bolt to attach a small piece of flat bar to mount pilot on. Clamp pilot for testing phase, the final test will be when keggle is on stand and burner is fired, you might have to make some minor adjustments to location to deal with drafts from operating burners, then bolt pilot in final position. Looking forward to seeing the final assembly pictures of your system, finally some one has done the right thing and used pilot safety valves for automated burners.

Hey Kladue. Took your advice on this one. Here is what it looks like. I don't have the actual burner/sensor I will be using yet. I suppose there will be some fiddling with height and such. Any thoughts?

IMG_0017.jpg


IMG_0018.jpg
 
Looks like pilot might be a bit too close, here are a couple of things to consider for placement of pilot burner. The flame extends about 1/2-3/4 inch from tip and upwards about same amount. With draft caused by burner operation you will probably need to turn flame up to about 3/4"+ to compensate for updraft to keep enough heat on thermocouple. Here is a suggestion, mount pilot tip about 1/2 below bottom of nozzle tip and about 1/2" away from side of nozzle tip so flame will burn near centerline of burner nozzle outlet before ignition.
 
kladue said:
Looks like pilot might be a bit too close, here are a couple of things to consider for placement of pilot burner. The flame extends about 1/2-3/4 inch from tip and upwards about same amount. With draft caused by burner operation you will probably need to turn flame up to about 3/4"+ to compensate for updraft to keep enough heat on thermocouple. Here is a suggestion, mount pilot tip about 1/2 below bottom of nozzle tip and about 1/2" away from side of nozzle tip so flame will burn near centerline of burner nozzle outlet before ignition.

Ok, great information as usual. I'll work on it. thanks.
 
Necro post here-

So, Korndog,

You got a parts list and photos of what you finally went with? I think I saw in another thread somewhere... this would be a good place to post a link to any photos..

TD
 
I just bought this valve for my Brutus: ASCO 8030G017, and then i saw this one: ASCO 8030G069. Anyone know the difference? Any comments?

What seat material works with propane?
 
For those of you who might be looking for an alternative to the ASCO valves, STC makes a similar valve in a variety of configurations that mirror the ASCO specs.

The STCs arent as common on eBay but run considerably cheaper new from suppliers online. I was all set to go with the ASCO 8210 series and ended up buying the STC 2w160 series. You can get them pretty much any size you want.

I found this company that has a very good variety of them with what appeared to be great pricing. Picked up to for less than $100 with shipping.

http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/Categories?sfs=eb68128f
MNBugeater,

I'm wondering how the STC 2w160 series valves worked out for you over time...considering them versus other common choices for my build, but like their price.

Thanks
 
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