The case for 3 gal batch brewing for apartment dwelling budget minded beginner

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

iambeer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
164
Location
Wash
I know there are good reasons for 5 gallon kits. But for me, three gallons was the way to go. I am surprised that three gallon starter kits aren't made available.

When shopping for a 'starter' kit, I looked at many kits from various vendors. I didn't like them because they essentially are taylored to 5 gallon batches. So I broke the kits down and researched each item; read various sources about why each item is important. I think I read a chapter or two of Homebrewing for Dummies, this forum, and other sites. I watched youtube vids. I read blogs and online books.

I steered to 3 gallons organically. Because it's less expensive and uses less space. Also maybe because I started with a Mr Beer kit, which I thought was more than enough beer from 2.5 gallons.

I started with a pot. I needed a high quality pot that I could use in the kitchen for making food. So I bought a 5 gallon stainless steel pot. I can brew on my electric tempered glass stovetop and I can get 4.5 gallons to a roiling boil. Therefore, I didn't need to buy a gas tank, burner, etc.

A 3 gallon carboy fits perfectly in a two dollar Home Depot bucket, which keeps it safe from damage, makes it easy to carry, and as a bonus I use the bucket as a swamp/t-shirt cooler. One of my first batches required an aging process in secondary, so I had two carboys to start with (which meant I had an excuse for two beers going at the same time).

I converted to all grain brewing on my third batch by spending $30 on a 5 gallon cylindrical cooler and vinyl mesh bags--as simple as that.

With a little care for keep yeast healthy, I only have to spend about $10 for each 3 gallon batch for grains and hops for most beers. Which means I can brew more types of beer for less money. Which is great while I am learning.

I do have a plastic bottling bucket. It is indispensable but it's huge and it only gets used once in a while. Good for storing tubes, etc. But ideally this is a standout wart in my setup.

I don't need as many bottles lying around, full or empty.

If I ever go to kegs and decide to stick with three gallons, I'll just buy new 3 gallon kegs (yes, they are more expensive than used 5 gallon kegs, but that's a fraction of the total cost of converting to kegging).

As a newbie, I am happy with my three gallon setup. It is challenging to learn to make beer but for 3 gallons, more manageable. The exciting thing for me is to plan a brew and brewday itself. To drink is good too, but there's no shortage of good beer where I live.

Maybe one day I will decide three gallons isn't enough for my efforts. Maybe I will decide that I want to brew less and drink more. But right now I know I made the right choice, sticking with a budget, and getting everything I need to get the full 'brewing' experience. I can share a beer with friends, just less of it. I made this beer with care, so I wouldn't want to share it carelessly anyway.

Until I change my mind, I have everything I need without converting an entire room to devote to a new hobby. ... Well, until that happens.. as it most certainly will :)
 
You can also go to your local grocery store and get 3.5 gallon buckets from the bakery. They make great fermenters.
 
I agree completely with all of your points. My neighbor (who brews) and the guys at LHBS think I'm wasting my time with such small batches (I've been doing 2.5gals), but I'm loving it!

I've done a 2.5gal BIAB batch, and would like to try a traditional all-grain. Your "mash tun" sounds interesting. Can you post pics of your setup & maybe a recipe or two that have worked out for you?

-WTY
 
HI I have not posted much to this forum. Sort of over-powered by the AG and 5 gal gang :)

I agree with the OP and the responses. I LIKE the small batch. Yes, 2.5 gal MRB LBK. I have made 52 recipes of assorted all extract beer. Most have been good some great. I get to make many different beers to drink. I do not drink much ( few a day) so a 5 gal batch is way too much of the same stuff for me to consume and enjoy. I like variety in the fridge.

I have no desire to go beyond extract brewing. I am now branching out to extract kits and DIY recipes with and without steeping grains.
If I want to brew a 5 gal recipe, I can cut it in half and store the balance for later.

Some recipe providers will split the kit into two 2.5 g kits. AHS and Brewmasters.
I can buy all the LME DME Hops and steep grains to brew more recipes then I can ever drink. :) I found many recipes on this forum.

I have quite a store of extracts in a can to brew. Once they are gone I will move to DIY recipes.
I might move to glass or plastic 3 gal fermenter later. I have 5 of the 2.5 LBK in use. I only bottle and use 3 of the tap a draft kegs with no problems.

I enjoy the hobby, just fininshed a bottle of modified ADIPA. :)
*R
 
Maybe I should have also pointed out that another benefit to 3 gallon batches is you don't need to make a starter when buying new yeast. IMO 1 vial will get you started pretty well for normal gravity beers.

I have been converting all grain recipes from 5 gallons to 3. I haven't brewed enough beer to recommend two recipes. But here are some example of what I have brewed or what I plan on brewing.


-----

Dark Wheat w/ European Ale Yeast (Base for Fruit Beer) 3 Gallons
Although it's a fruit beer base, I tasted it before adding the fruit and I was intrigued.

Briess 2-Row 4 lbs
Weyermann Dark Wheat 2 lbs
Caramel Munich 2 oz
Hallertau Pellets .4 oz @ 60 mins
Williamette Pellets .4 oz @ 30 mins
European Ale Yeast

My efficiency was only about 60% so my OG was about 1.046, FG (before fruit addition) was 1.012. IBU 19; SRM 7.19

I added 4 lbs of blueberries. Which would have been better if I had hit a 75% efficiency. In retrospect with 60% efficiency I would have gone for 3 lbs of blueberries.

-----

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone, 3 Gallons

This is a 3 gallon version derived from the BYO version and some simpler online recipe versions.

Briess 2-Row Brewer's Malt - 5 lbs 8 oz
Caramel Pils - 5 oz
Briess 2 Row Caramel 20 - 2.4 oz
Briess 2 Row Caramel 40 - 2.4 oz

Perle @ 45 - .9 oz
Cascade @ 5 - .6 oz
Cascade @ 0 - .6 oz
Cascade @ dry - .6 oz
American Ale Yeast

-----

Just for fun I converted the weights on the Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu (my wife and I love it) clone from this source:
http://***********/stories/recipein...al-beer/450-dogfish-heads-chateau-jiahu-clone

The ingredients are hard to get, but some of the more rare stuff (orange honey, syrup, hawthorne berry) are available at a nearby health food store.

...and it looks like this (definitely something I'll try in kind of distant future)

Two-row pale malt - 6 lbs 13.2 oz
Orange blossom honey - 1 lbs 12.8 oz
Rice Syrup - 1 lbs 3.2 oz
Alexander’s Muscat conc - 9.6 oz
Hawthorne Berry Powder - 4.8 oz
Simcoe Hops @ 60 - 2.4 oz
Sake Yeast

-----

As for my setup...

All I have to say about the 5 gallon cylindrical cooler and paint strainer mesh bags is that they are made for each other. The bag is perfectly tall enough and the elastic fits the rim perfectly. I just had to learn that when mixing not to twist the bag (actually closing the lid and gently but firmly shaking the mash works even better since less heat is lost). When sparging wheat mash without hulls, I had to tug the bag a little here and there to get the sparge running. I haven't maximized my efficiency but I'm working on it. I don't think my equipment is keeping me back; I think it's more about the grain and the water.

I brew in the kitchen, so there's nothing special to see there. Here's a snapshot of my compact fermentation closet. It's very small but somehow it looks a bit bigger in this photo. The ambient temp is about 68-70 and under a wet shirt about 63-65 F. The top shelf has two or three gallons fermentation tests, and at the bottom there is room for three carboys. The shelves are used for bottles. Above the frame is a shelf with the 5 gallon cooler hanging upside down, and a Mr Beer Keg (can't fit the bottling bucket there unfortunately).

closetbrewery.jpg
 
What you discuss is exactly what I was planning to do this Fall when it cooled down in my apartment. I live in a fourth floor walk up in Brooklyn, and the lack of space makes having all the necessary equipment for a 5 gallon AG set up difficult and I've gotten good feedback from other NYC dwellers on 3 gallon AG batches.

And in terms of quantity, it takes me a good amount of time to kill 5 gallons of beer (in NYC you spend too much time drinking out instead of in), so 3 gallons will be ample.
 
iambeer,

Thanks for the rundown! I agree completely with the direct pitch yeast vial (or smack pack).

On your cooler/bag set up -- do you run off from the cooler's push-button spigot, or did you install a ball-valve (or something different)?
 
I started doing 3 gallon batches about a year ago when I switched to all grain and the need to do full boils, but didn't want to shell out for a 7+ gallon kettle. There are pros and cons, IMO. Pro: there's less at stake if an experimental recipe comes out wrong. Con: Having to convert "standard" 5 gallon recipes to 3 Gallon. Pro: Lower cost/batch. Con: half as much beer for the same amount of work.

Sooner or later (probably this summer), I'll get a big kettle and switch between 3 and 5 gallon batches.
 
I'm working on my first 2.5 gallon BIAB AG batch right now. I want to do AG, but I know it'll be a while before I can make the investment to do bigger batches. I'm stuck with what my kitchen can handle right now. I can still do 5 gallon extract kits, and experiment with the BIAB batches for things I'm not quite sure of...
 
I totally see the wisdom in 3, 5, and 10 gallon batches. They all have there place. Three gallon batches are great for learning, experimenting, brewing often, diversity, and apartment brewing. For me, 5 gallon batches are the right amount of output for the work. I'd love to be able to do 10 gallon batches for weddings or big parties or to be able to split the cost and beer with one or two other people. What's really needed is a book or website full of 3 gallon recipes aimed at new brewers. That way it would be really approachable.

That said, there should totally be an Apartment Brewer website that speciallizes in 3 gallon kits, small carboys, and vertical indoor brew sculpture/carts that you could use in your kitchen (either pumping to and from a kettle on the stove or with electric elements).
 
I did my first brew with a 5 gallon kit, but from now one, I'm doing only 2.5 gallons at a time. There are a few reasons for this. I have the space for 5gal, but I don't drink a lot (one a night at the most), and I have a HUGE list of recipes I want to try. My wife doesn't drink beer, so I'm most on my own, except for football season where friends get together more. I want to practice brewing as much as possible, so 2.5gal batches allow me to brew more often and hone my skills. Practice, practice, practice.

I've bought a few kits from Northern Brewer and matched the ingredients so I can buy a few extra grains and hops and get two different beers out of a kit. Leftovers I can use for future brews.

In the near future, I'm going to try a few test batches of 1-2 gallons each. Probably some big beers like an RIS or belgian strong.
 
On your cooler/bag set up -- do you run off from the cooler's push-button spigot, or did you install a ball-valve (or something different)?

I just use the button spigot. I haven't heard anyone say this is bad, so..... I'm all about the path of least resistance, and this seems to work just fine :) I have thought about buying a fancy ball valve, but there's no compelling reason as of yet.

I love doing all grain. It's not that hard, it just takes another two or three hours in the process. For me, the time is well spent. For the same reason, I totally understand why some people like extract kits.
 
It's rare that I brew a batch larger than five gallons. It's convenient to brew five because a lot of our equipment is designed for it but I just don't drink through my beer fast enough to want five gallons sitting around. I've also been playing around with lots of new recipes and there's nothing good about having five gallons of a bad recipe sitting around. One gallon is really enough of that. So I do lots of three gallon batches (sometimes 2.5) even though I have a house and all the equipment for five gallon batches. In the past year or so the only five or six gallon batches I've made are sours because they take so long to age.

It may be cheaper for OP to buy used five gallon corny kegs even if only three gallons goes in. You never know when you'll want a larger batch or fully move on to making larger batches.
 
Great Thread! Its nice to know that I'm not the only one content with my 3 gallon setup. I did half a dozen Mr. Beer kits then switched to 3 gallon BIAB earlier this year and love designing and making AG brews. The smaller batches allow me to do more brewing. :mug:

Don't see myself going up to 5 gallons as it takes me months to go through my 3 gallon batches. Since I like variety in my brews, there are always bottles from the last 4-5 batches lying around. Some batches are gone in a couple months, but I still have a few bottles of a Mr Beer RIS that I made in Oct 2010.
 
I brew 5 gallon and now have way to do 10 gallon batches of beers I really like, but I say it's what works for you. I finally broke done and bought equipment to do all grain in a igloo cooler,have not done it yet,I'm sure I will still do extract at times too. It all makes beer and if makes beer you like then do it how you like.

I do also have bucket to do a 2 gallon batch in so if I find one I'm not sure of I'm not out much to find out if it is any good.
 
It may be cheaper for OP to buy used five gallon corny kegs even if only three gallons goes in. You never know when you'll want a larger batch or fully move on to making larger batches.

Great advice. When I was considering kegs for 3 gallon batches, I assumed the CO2 would be too expensive to use 5 gallon kegs. But I am thinking more clearly now, since CO2 is a lot cheaper than everything else. And not to mention the upgrade potential.
 
I'm a veteran when it comes to brewing 2.5 - 3.5 g batches under full volume boils. I think the new brewer who wants to brew indoors under certain restrictions will get much better quality beers by doing this vs. 5-6 g partial volume boils with top off water. Presently, I will either brew outdoors in my larger kettle OR brew indoors with two smaller kettles and combine them to form one 5-6 g batch. Sometimes I brew the same beer in the primary and rack them to separate 3 g secondaries with a different dryhop, or added fruit, or oak, etc. The Flexibility is awesome.
 
I've been thinking about 2.5/3 gallon brewing too. My reasons are pretty much the same as everyone else. The important ones to me are being able to rotate batches to work on improving my brewing, so if a batch doesn't turn out great I won't be stuck with 5 gal. of "okay" beer. If I drink at home it is alone, if I drink with friends it's at a pub, so I don't drink all the time at home and the beer will build up too much. I also drink wine, so again I can go through batches easier.

I guess I have one reason not mentioned, I think. My apartment get's hot. I would like to either get a small fridge/wine cooler or SOFC type cooler. That can be a lot smaller for a small bath than a 5/6.5 gal. fermenter. I could potentially make the SOFC out of an Ikea type cabinet and make it match the furniture. I'm not saying I will do that, but I could!
 
"If I ever go to kegs and decide to stick with three gallons, I'll just buy new 3 gallon kegs (yes, they are more expensive than used 5 gallon kegs, but that's a fraction of the total cost of converting to kegging).
"

I didn't find kegs to be a fraction of the cost of converting to kegging, I found them to be a bulk of the costs, and that was buying 5G used corny's. 3G new ones are over twice as expensive, but if this helps at all, you could've left this off of your list because you can easily rack 3G into a 5G corny, because you can just fill the headspace with C02.
 
HI I have not posted much to this forum. Sort of over-powered by the AG and 5 gal gang :)

What??? Just post! Nobody cares if you're doing small medium or large batches...at least nobody that I've run across!

I really don't see any Us vs. them when it comes to batch size on HBT, but based on a few small batch brewing posts recently, I'm missing something.
 
I'm going to offer up a service to all my small batch brethren. PM me your recipe and I'll convert it for you in my 21 dollar software program. If you want a recipe idea, I've also likely got it already programmed into beersmith, and will happily convert it for you. ;-)

Recipe size shouldn't be an inhibitor whatsoever for small batch brewing everything scales very nicely.
 
I had a friend give me a number of 5 gallon carboys, so I moved to 4 gallon batches so I could use these without needing a blowoff setup. I've not looked back at all - 4 gallons is plenty. I can see why 3 gallons makes a lot of sense, too.

Smaller batches are great - I get to brew more varieties of beer more often for the same amount of money.
 
... brew indoors with two smaller kettles and combine them to form one 5-6 g batch. Sometimes I brew the same beer in the primary and rack them to separate 3 g secondaries with a different dryhop, or added fruit, or oak, etc. The Flexibility is awesome.

I really like the idea of two kettles combined to make a larger batch. To me this underlines the fact that the kettle is the heart of the whole operation.

But how do you mix the wort? I don't know if it's just me but as I sparge, it is clearer and weaker.

When I bought my 3 gallon carboys, I reasoned they would always be useful for the flexibility of trying out new ideas in a secondary if I ever upgraded.

The pleasant surprise I have felt recently is that I have no wish to upgrade in the foreseeable future.
 
What??? Just post! Nobody cares if you're doing small medium or large batches...at least nobody that I've run across!

I really don't see any Us vs. them when it comes to batch size on HBT, but based on a few small batch brewing posts recently, I'm missing something.

I don't think anyone means to do this, but because the majority of brewers use (and assume others use) 5 gallon batch setups, this does tend to alienate people who don't.

All grains vs extract is more pronounced, because it implies skill superiority even if a newcomer like me can dump hot water on grains and make beer out of it. Even if it's not about skill but about time, there's still a split between all grain and kit brewers.

I may have to hit you up on the offer to convert some recipes. Even if I saved loads of cash from keeping my setup dynamic and affordable, there's no point in buying the cow when someone is giving away free milk. More Beer!
 
After years of brewing 5 gal batches I made the switch to 3 gal batches last year and couldn't be happier. For all the reasons stated above, plus with the smaller batch size I can ferment in cornies without adding fermcap or a blowoff tube.
 
I really like the idea of two kettles combined to make a larger batch. To me this underlines the fact that the kettle is the heart of the whole operation.

But how do you mix the wort? I don't know if it's just me but as I sparge, it is clearer and weaker.

When I bought my 3 gallon carboys, I reasoned they would always be useful for the flexibility of trying out new ideas in a secondary if I ever upgraded.

You should be left with two full volume boil worts with no top off water, so I'm not understanding the concern. It's easy to combine two 2.5 - 3 gallon worts into one 6.5 gallon carboy. Or you could brew one batch and at it to your 5 gallon carboy. Headspace is not an issue in the primary, only the secondary. If I want to rack a small batch to secondary, I will use my 3 gallon carboy.
 
Same reason I'll stick with 5 gal batches, but never move to 10. Three gallons would be perfect if I was the only one drinking it, but I like to give away some beer and my wife likes to drink a little. Also, everything I own and most everything homebrewing related is geared toward 5 gal batches.
 
I don't think anyone means to do this, but because the majority of brewers use (and assume others use) 5 gallon batch setups, this does tend to alienate people who don't.

All grains vs extract is more pronounced, because it implies skill superiority even if a newcomer like me can dump hot water on grains and make beer out of it. Even if it's not about skill but about time, there's still a split between all grain and kit brewers.

I may have to hit you up on the offer to convert some recipes. Even if I saved loads of cash from keeping my setup dynamic and affordable, there's no point in buying the cow when someone is giving away free milk. More Beer!

Whoa..I'm not looking to infringe on any lisencing, I'll just do the math by hand for ya instead. It all scales directly. I can't TELL anyone not to feel alienated, but the resources on this site are so rich, I don't think there's any logical reason NOT to start brewing small batches. We all have to do a minimal amount of learning in order to brew beer, there's no extra learning to do. Find a recipe, go to your lhbs and buy the milled grain/extract, or buy it at Brewmaster's Warehouse. Brew it.

Buying the right equipment is incumbant on everyone, not just small batch brewers, we're all in the same hobby. :mug:
 
I'm feeling a lot better about wanting to do smaller batches now, 5 gallons is a lot for me outside of football season, for me the fun is in the brew day. I'd like to get some kegs cause bottling is the only part of the process I don't enjoy
 
I'm an apartment brewer, and pretty much all my batches are 2 - 3 gallons. I use a 2G cooler for my MLT, and line the cooler with a mesh bag for lautering. I can mash up to 5 lbs of grain that way, which is perfect for small batches (if I'm brewing a barleywine or RIS, I can always throw in a pound of DME). My kettle and electric stove can handle the full boil. I also have 3G carboys for fermentation.

But the best part IMO is not having to make a starter. I LOVE being able to directly pitch a smack pack or WLP vial and not have to worry about under-pitching. I find making a starter to be really annoying, and it of course introduces the possibility of contamination. As was mentioned before, for a 2 - 3 G batch, one vial / smack pack is usually just about the perfect amount of yeast.

It also means I get to experiment and brew more often. Someday, maybe I'll go to larger batches, but for now, I'm loving the small batch set-up.

:mug:
 
What??? Just post! Nobody cares if you're doing small medium or large batches...at least nobody that I've run across!

I really don't see any Us vs. them when it comes to batch size on HBT, but based on a few small batch brewing posts recently, I'm missing something.

OPS I have to watch my sarcasm comments. Was not trying to be offensive. :)
r
 
For all those brewing small batches, like me. You might want to check a yeast calculator.. I've typically had to make starters for most of my beers in the 2.5 gallon range. Mainly due to the date on the package, but sometimes because the cell count is short.
 
I tried to set my self up for 5 gallon brewing, it is hard to do living in an apartment on the 7th floor with an electric stove. I did this mainly becuase when doing research I found way more information and recipes for 5 gallons. Well after doing more reseach I found that the recipes are scalable and there are calcutators for everything. Well I am down grading myself to 3/3.5 gallon brews because I am progressing to AG brewing. Also thinking about doing experimental 1 gallon brews. Nice to see others out there brewing in an apartment, I get jealous seeing the pictures of people with brew sheds and patios with hops growing all around them. One day I will grow my batches to 5 gallons until then 3/3.5 are my magic numbers.
 
I am just getting set up to brew my first batch and plan on doing only 2.5 gallon batches. I have lots of space, but just don't drink enough any more to justify the large batches ( I should have started this when I was 25 instead of 45 :eek: ). Plus I would like to be able to try several different types/styles of beer so 2.5 gallons will be plenty for me. 2.5 gallon fits nicely into a 3gallon carboy for fermenting and in the end I will have 20 500ml/16oz bottles to enjoy while I start on my next batch:D
 
I have a question for the apartment brewers out there. I am looking to start brewing 3 gallon all grains in my apartment because me and my brewing partners cannot brew as often as i like in our 15 gallon set up, which is at my buddy's house. I also conveniently have a 3 gallon corny kegerater set up at my apartment. This seems like a no brainer to me. I am an experienced brewer so not worried about process other than chilling. I won't be able to hook up an immersion chiller to my apartment's sink and I am genuinely not sure about how to chill 3 gallons of boiling wort down quickly. I am not really Interested in trying no chill because I am looking to replicate the process from our larger system to be able to make "pilot" batches for the larger system. How are you apartment brewers going about chilling?
 
Ice bath in sink. I slowly stir wort every 10 minutes. Once wort goes below 100 degrees I change water out in sink and add more ice and water.

Takes about 30 minutes.
 
^ cool water bath in the sink while stirring will work fine. Change the water out a few times add ice toward the end. Will be almost as quick as your IC for bigger batches.
 
You could always do a "no chill". Ive had no change in results when I do that.
I basically chill it as much as an ice bath will allow (usually to around 110-100 degrees or so), then transfer into carboy as normal and add airlock to keep O2/bugs out. Wait til the temp is the same as the room and pitch. Usually temp is good when im all cleaned up.
Plus...you are in Pittsburgh...its gonna get pretty cold soon. Ive used snow drifts to chill my wort when I lived in my condo.
 
Got a big plastic washtub from Walmart for around $6. Kettle of hot wort goes in the washtub. Completely fill deadspace with ice from the supermarket (30lbs=$5). Spin the kettle clockwise a half dozen turns or so; spin it counterclockwise a half dozen turns or so and repeat - and repeat -and repeat... Gets 3 gallons of wort from boiling to 60F in less than 15 minutes.
 
Back
Top