Regulator problems

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hawgwild81

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Have a dual regulator. One works just fine. I hooked up a keg today and the regulator I'm not using goes up to 50psi even with the valve closed. Can anyone tell me what I need to replace to fix the issue? I've attached a photo so you can see what I'm talking about. The regulator on the left is the one that goes to 50psi. The one on the right holds steady where ever I set it.

image-3183790120.jpg
 
Not completely sure of your set up. If the regulator on the left is dependent on the set output from the regulator on the right - the reg on the left is bad. Cant get more pressure out than pressure in.

If the reg input on the left is receiving full pressure from the tank, the reg is bad, it should be able to dial down the pressure.

Either way, I'd say the reg on the left is faulty.

Is their a high pressure gage to the left of the regulator on the left? If so, what does it read?

Edit.. and plus one to what Helibrewer said. Not sure why, but he is probably on to something.
 
The ports are connected right. The regulator on the left is independent from the one on the right. The high pressure gauge is reading 600 psi (my tank is almost empty). I wasn't sure if the valve was bad or the regulator was bad. Seems weird that the valve is shut off but gas is still making it through.
 
Maybe the gauge is stuck? Is that a bleed valve I see? If the one on the left has one can you pull it and the needle should dip momentarily if not stuck.
 
There could be something on the diphragm in the second body, causing the issue. If pulling the relief valve doesn't help, or help for long plan to take it apart and fix. I had a similar issue with a regulator when the gas flow was off, less issue (but still there) with it open.

IF you can get a rebuild kit for the body, I would do so. Otherwise, I'd replace it with a Taprite regulator.

BTW, if the CO2 tank is in the fridge, 600psi is pretty full. You normally show about 300psi lower when the tank is at fridge temps.
 
BTW, if the CO2 tank is in the fridge, 600psi is pretty full. You normally show about 300psi lower when the tank is at fridge temps.

You can't say if it's pretty full or pretty empty, just that there's still liquid CO2 in it. The only way to know is to weigh the tank.
 
You can't say if it's pretty full or pretty empty, just that there's still liquid CO2 in it. The only way to know is to weigh the tank.

The regulator will show a pressure difference depending on temperature of the tank/CO2. I had a full tank show 800psi at room temp and 500psi after 24 hours in the brew fridge (at ~40F). This is a pressure difference, not volume difference. IME, when the high pressure guage is in the red, or getting lower than that, it's almost empty. Tank size often determines how long you'll have between getting low and running out.
 
I'm not disagreeing with any of that, just your statement saying "600psi is pretty full." 600 psi could mean the tank has one drop of liquid CO2 left in it.
 
When I pull the bleed valve the psi drops, but when I release it the psi goes right back up. I guess the best thing to do is try and find a rebuild kit.
 
Before you spend money to rebuild/fix try this:

Turn off gas, remove hose from the one with the problem, leave the valve open and turn it up all the way. Blast it a few times to dislodge what is hopefully the problem.
 
I'm not disagreeing with any of that, just your statement saying "600psi is pretty full." 600 psi could mean the tank has one drop of liquid CO2 left in it.

Actually, since its reading in the 'full' range for when cold, my statement IS accurate. Try moving a FULL CO2 tank (with regulator on it) from room temp into where the kegs are and you will see what I'm talking about. Just because the high pressure gauge READS lower doesn't mean it has less CO2 in it. Just means that the COLD CO2 has less pressure behind it. Same thing will happen in reverse when you put it back at room temp (above ~60F). Same thing happens with most compressed gasses we deal with.
 
Actually, since its reading in the 'full' range for when cold, my statement IS accurate. Try moving a FULL CO2 tank (with regulator on it) from room temp into where the kegs are and you will see what I'm talking about. Just because the high pressure gauge READS lower doesn't mean it has less CO2 in it. Just means that the COLD CO2 has less pressure behind it. Same thing will happen in reverse when you put it back at room temp (above ~60F). Same thing happens with most compressed gasses we deal with.

Did you even read my post? Again, I'm not disagreeing with any of that. Please explain how you can be sure that an enclosed tank, at ~40 deg F and ~600 psi, containing a mixture of CO2 liquid and vapor, is "mostly full" of liquid CO2.
 
OntarioBeerKegs said:
Before you spend money to rebuild/fix try this:

Turn off gas, remove hose from the one with the problem, leave the valve open and turn it up all the way. Blast it a few times to dislodge what is hopefully the problem.

Ok I tried this. As long as the hose isn't hooked up the regulator stays at 0. I basted it a couple of times. When I hook the hose back up the psi jumps back up to 50. Not sure what would cause this.

Also thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I really appreciate it.
 
When I pull the bleed valve the psi drops, but when I release it the psi goes right back up. I guess the best thing to do is try and find a rebuild kit.

Did you vent the keg first? You did have it hooked up when the pressure was creeping up to 50 psi, so unless you vented it, it's likely still charged up to 50 psi. And if you don't have a check valve between keg and regulator, that same 50 psi will show up on your low pressure gauge...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
Did you vent the keg first? You did have it hooked up when the pressure was creeping up to 50 psi, so unless you vented it, it's likely still charged up to 50 psi. And if you don't have a check valve between keg and regulator, that same 50 psi will show up on your low pressure gauge...

Cheers!

Guess I should have clarified. The regulator that is at 50psi isn't hooked to a keg at all. The regulator at 10psi Is hooked up to the keg. What I don't get is why having the hose hooked up would make a difference, but as long as I keep the hose off the regulator stays at 0. As soon as I put the hose back on the regulator jumps back up to 50psi and it's not hooked up to a keg and the valve is shut. Cheers!
 
How quick does it jump up to 50 psi? Try urning the regulator to 0, removing the hose and then get a cup of water and dip the hose barb into that. If you see bubbles you poppet is passing and you need to rebuild (the clearing trick Ontario post didn't work).
What regulator is it because a few months back there was a lot of problem dual(?) regulators, one of the companies that was selling them put out a pretty details description of how to try clear them without full diassembling and rebuilding. Ontario was that you?
 
day_trippr said:
So, the hose isn't connected to anything? Even a disconnect?

Cheers!

The hose has a ball lock disconnect on it but isn't hooked up to a keg.
 
mattd2 said:
How quick does it jump up to 50 psi? Try urning the regulator to 0, removing the hose and then get a cup of water and dip the hose barb into that. If you see bubbles you poppet is passing and you need to rebuild (the clearing trick Ontario post didn't work).
What regulator is it because a few months back there was a lot of problem dual(?) regulators, one of the companies that was selling them put out a pretty details description of how to try clear them without full diassembling and rebuilding. Ontario was that you?

Within 3 seconds it's at 50psi. I'll try the water trick. I can't remember what kind of regulator it is. There's no markings on it. I got it from Midwest about two tears ago.
 
So the best thing would be to get a new regulator?

I'd at least find out if rebuild kits are available for the regulator you already have, as such kits are far cheaper than springing for a new, higher quality regulator. Either way, I'd go ahead and break that one down and see if there's either some crud or a diaphragm tear at the root of the problem, if only for curiosity sake...

Cheers!
 
I'd at least find out if rebuild kits are available for the regulator you already have, as such kits are far cheaper than springing for a new, higher quality regulator. Either way, I'd go ahead and break that one down and see if there's either some crud or a diaphragm tear at the root of the problem, if only for curiosity sake...

Cheers!

A diaphragm tear would not likely be the cause... would it? I would expect that would cause a leak from the back of the regulator (the vent hole usually drilled somewhere around the knob).
I would bet it is the poppet, either something is stuck or the seal has gone. Any chance you might have had beer get up into the reg?
 
mattd2 said:
Any chance you might have had beer get up into the reg?

I don't think so, it worked fine last time I had a keg hooked up to it. I just moved so I haven't brewed in awhile and killed my kegs I had hooked up before the move. Before I moved I had two kegs hooked up and killed one of them. It was working fine before the move with just the one keg hooked up to the regulator that isn't malfunctioning. There's no telling what could have happened during the move. .
 
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