The "Strange" Brewery.. Another Build w/tons o' pics..

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JamieT

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Location
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Well I have been resisting starting the typical "build" thread, but.. I cant stop myself.. I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel so it is time to release the "Strange Brewery" to the observant eye of the HBT for evaluation...

Specs...

All Electric
5500 Watt HLT Element
2500 Watt Rims Element
Dual Function Herms and Rims System..
2 March 109's
10 Solid State Relays + Heat Sinks
10 Solenoid Valves
3 Float Switches
4 Thermocouples
4 DPDT Switches
1 Key Switch
2 Momentary Push Buttons
18 Indicator Lights
2 4-Position Selectors for Flow Path Selection
2 120VAC Cooling Fans
1 5vdc 5amp power supply
BCS-460
Full Manual Functionality
RIMS and HERMS Purge System (new concept as far as I can tell)
Keyed Main Power (no Key, no brew)
Batch and Fly Sparge Capability
yada, yada, yada...

And now for the pics...

functionl_diagram.jpg

Flow_Diagram.jpg

Manual_overide_panel_layout.jpg

wiring_low_side.jpg

wiring_high_side.jpg

Manul_panel_Added.jpg

Manual_Panel_Wiring.jpg

Manual_Panel_Mock_Up.jpg

Manual_Panel_Face.jpg

Manaul_Panel_Mounting.jpg



More Pics next post..
 
First sweet set up and second are those 3 postion carlings switches for the sparge and herms switches? Because we use the the same switch for marine heatersand they have a tendency to crap out if they are cycled a lot.
 
First sweet set up and second are those 3 postion carlings switches for the sparge and herms switches? Because we use the the same switch for marine heatersand they have a tendency to crap out if they are cycled a lot.

Yes they will pit away the contact under high amperage heating element loads especially under the initial cold element and pump starting amperage load. With them control signaling SSR's there shouldn't be any problems within their rated make and break contact ratings.
Great OP posting thanks, another BCS owner here but on the mend.
 
First sweet set up and second are those 3 postion carlings switches for the sparge and herms switches? Because we use the the same switch for marine heatersand they have a tendency to crap out if they are cycled a lot.

Go to a electrical supply house that specializes in purchasing materials from electrical construction sites, new switches at 1/2 to 1/4 a regular electrical supply in price. Select a switch in the amperage capacity required without having any future switch failing problems. Cheap and simple with the use of the proper industrial equipment.
 
Yes they are carling's.. And I do expect them to take a flying crap on me.. I bought a few extra to manage the scenario until I find a descent 3 position switch.. My manual panel is fairly shallow and I haven't been able to find a descent switch..

The only recourse I have is that they will not be switched live AND the current load will be < 1 amp at any given time so I am hoping for a descent life out of them..

JT
 
I just came to a conclusion. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I WAS LOOKING AT. However, This is the ultimate in homebrewing, automated systems. I am happy just to have an autosyphon.
 
You must be an electrical engineer :D

It looks good and I'm looking forward to seeing what it looks like completed. Are you doing much automation (as in set and brew) since you're using the BCS-460 or are you just using it for the simplicity of the panel as well as data collection?

Awesome project
 
When you go pro; "Get some Strange" has a nice ring to it.

-OCD
 
Your switches should be fine if they are not used whist the current is at "11". You could add some reverse biased diodes to eat the switching current if you can't find a "better" switch.
 
You must be an electrical engineer :D

It looks good and I'm looking forward to seeing what it looks like completed. Are you doing much automation (as in set and brew) since you're using the BCS-460 or are you just using it for the simplicity of the panel as well as data collection?

Awesome project

All the above.

With the BCS 460 you can plug the unit to your computer download what you brewed or program into the 460 unit, change any entered information you so desire. Unplug the 460 from your computer leave the 460 with your brewery unit doing its thing controlling what you programed into it. Your computer or laptop is safe and away from your wet brewing location.
The 460 covers all my brewing needs hence why I purchased one. After working on a friends brewing system with the cost of all the PID's I found at the end of his brewery build the BCS 460 was less costly besides it can download back to my computer what was brewed to repeat the same session exactly again. There are many other functions available the 460 has to offer.
Call it a chebbie or a Blue Oval thing use what fits your brewing wants and needs.

jamie T; keep us posted on your progress.
 

Those look like the cheap $15 ssr + heat sink combos that are sold on E-bay. I am guessing asia electronics? I have been eying those some time time now but I can help but have some reservations about their quality. What are your impressions?

BTW, whole system looks good.
 
The physical quality of the SSR's appears to be good.. I am not going to be running them anywhere near rated current so I hope they perform well.. The Heat Sinks are from Wolf Automation and are excellent.. If the SSR's crap out after a while so be it.. Its a 3 minute operation to replace one..
 
The only thing I would be worried about with this brewing setup is that it would come to life and decide to kill me and my family. Other than that, awesome setup!
 
The transistors in a SSR are based on a technology that was developed 50+ years ago. Any fab can make them. I'd be seriously surprised if there are good and bad ones. The yield on the 500um tech node is probably 100.01% these days :D

Now if they are poorly packaged than that's a different story ;)
 
Nice work. I'd imagine cable management would not be easy with all of those switches but you made it look clean and organized. My only critique is the wood backplane, mostly from an aesthetics standpoint, although the extra heat dissipation and grounding points won't hurt. I'm in the process of mounting a fan in my electrical box but I'm concerned about water getting sucked in. Do you think that may be an issue with the locations of your fans? I was thinking of having the inlet on the bottom and exhaust on the side.
 
The wood back plane is temporary.. I didnt know how many times I would move components and wire routes and didnt want to drill tons of holes in my metal back panel.. When it is complete and the Functional tests are done, it will be a short exercise to remove the wood back plane and use it as a template for my permanent panel.

Regarding the fan location.. If I get water or wort anywhere near them something has gone terribly wrong.. Not saying it wont happen but I didnt want to be vacuming dust up from the floor and dumping it in my box so the sides were my best option..
 
dude, you did hand drawn wiring diagram with a ruler. :rockin:


LOL... Yeah pretty sub-par I know.. I drew the wiring diagram in the truck on the way to the lake house while the wife was driving.. It started out as a rough sketch and I just never converted it to digital format.. I will convert it to digital and add all of my wire labels for future troubleshooting reference and keep it in my main control box's document slip..
 
LOL... Yeah pretty sub-par I know.. I drew the wiring diagram in the truck on the way to the lake house while the wife was driving.. It started out as a rough sketch and I just never converted it to digital format.. I will convert it to digital and add all of my wire labels for future troubleshooting reference and keep it in my main control box's document slip..


You are WAY more organized than me. When I get my control box together I should post a picture so people can see how it's supposed to be done (you) and how NOT to do it (me). :)
 
LOL... Yeah pretty sub-par I know.. I drew the wiring diagram in the truck on the way to the lake house while the wife was driving.. It started out as a rough sketch and I just never converted it to digital format.. I will convert it to digital and add all of my wire labels for future troubleshooting reference and keep it in my main control box's document slip..
Awesome set up. I need to replace my system in the next month so I can get brewing again. Looks way too sophistcated compared to what I was used to. Might put a manual set up together to get going again and then considewr a similar system myself. Great work!
 
LOL... Yeah pretty sub-par I know.. I drew the wiring diagram in the truck on the way to the lake house while the wife was driving.. It started out as a rough sketch and I just never converted it to digital format.. I will convert it to digital and add all of my wire labels for future troubleshooting reference and keep it in my main control box's document slip..

Nice hand drawn sketches but we have to find you a copy of AutoCad somewhere.;)
 
Looks great and prolly makes brewing easy as hell buuuuttttt just thinking of how you make this makes my brain want to explode!!
 
Well primary contruction / wiring / and plumbing are complete.. Worked all weekend to get it done.. Started static water tests last night about 9:30.. A couple of small leaks as I expected.. Nothing major..

Didn't take the time to get any new pics because I was solely focused on reaching static water testing...

Before the pics come... I plumbed the entire rig with CPVC.. I know it's not at cool as Stainless or copper but it has 2500 times less thermal conductivity and with all of the pipe on this thing I wanted to avoid building a giant radiator with all the metal plumbing..

Go ahead and take your shots.. I knew I was gonna get some flack for the CPVC.. Lets have it..
 
Maximum service rating for CPVC is 200°F. If you're not worried about going 10-20 degree over that I see CPVC as easier to work with than copper and what not. Not to mention cheaper and not having to worry about burning yourself on it.
 
Maximum service rating for CPVC is 200°F. If you're not worried about going 10-20 degree over that I see CPVC as easier to work with than copper and what not. Not to mention cheaper and not having to worry about burning yourself on it.

This system only handles the mash.. Boil is separate.. I'm not worried about getting to 200degf...
 
I'd still insulate it. IMO, that's one of the most neglected aspects I see in homebrew rigs. Especially if you're all electric, EVERYTHING should be insulated.
 
All Plumbing is fully insulated.. Actually a more tedious job than the plumbing itself.
 
Before the pics come... I plumbed the entire rig with CPVC.. I know it's not at cool as Stainless or copper but it has 2500 times less thermal conductivity and with all of the pipe on this thing I wanted to avoid building a giant radiator with all the metal plumbing..

Go ahead and take your shots.. I knew I was gonna get some flack for the CPVC.. Lets have it..

You going to paint the piping? Need pics!

Edit: Oh, nevermind about painting, just saw the part about insulation.
 
Oh, no! Bad brewery build mojo!


WHOA>>>>!!!! Slow Down now.... I was spitting in the can... Dug it out of the garage trash, a neighbor brought it over to play darts... I could never defile the build with such an offense...
 
WHOA>>>>!!!! Slow Down now.... I was spitting in the can... Dug it out of the garage trash, a neighbor brought it over to play darts... I could never defile the build with such an offense...

*wipes sweat off head* you almost scared this noob off the forum!
 
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