Scorching - 2000w 120v LWD or ULWD Avail?

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Jknapp

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I've ran into an issue of wort scorching onto my elements in my ekettle (I run 2 x 2000w HWD 120v elements to boil 7 gallons). This is probably becuase I didn't really do a great job of cleaning my elements after each boil, I basically just rinsed them off. This scorching essentially ruined 3 batches of beer before I realized the elements had developed a cake of flaking black buildup.

I'm in the process of replaceing my elements with new ones, but I cant find 2000w 120v LWD or ULWD elements online or elsewhere. It seems only HWD elements are available in the 2000w 120v format.

I've read somewhere about running a 240v element with 120v. If i do that, can I use a 4500w (or 4000w) element at 120v to get the wattage down to 2000w and also get the benefit of ULWD/LWD?

Thanks for the help.
 
I have run 2 elements at 2000w similar to you for several years. I have found that the cleaner you keep the elements, the less caking you will get. I would scrub your existing elements real well w/ a scrubbie or a stainless pot scrubber, they will com clean w/ a little effort.

Regaring running a 240v low density, your wattage will only be 25% at 120v, not enough IMO.
 
I have scorched and popped 2k elements as well. I now use two 1500w ulwd elements. 3k watts is fine for 5 gal batches.
 
My 2kW, 120V system is doing the exact same thing. I found this website (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html) that has a 1500W LWD, but I doubt it has the nut for anything more than 3gal.

My scorching issue has prompted me to go 220v. Its a shame too because my system ran good for several batches but then this.
 
Do a google on SP10868GL (click it) and then find a place based on price and shipping charges.

This is what you will get: //http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10868gl.aspx

Just to give you an idea. It's a 120V 2000W Stainless Steel Resistored LWD element.
thumb_1_Photo%20of%20SP10868GL%20Unpackaged%20Ortho.jpg


HTH
 
You are more than welcome. I'm just glad I reviewed your thread. I first looked at a 2000W LWD element I have in my brew-parts Excel sheet and then I got hit by a brilliant light cause all I was seeing was a 240V unit. I almost posted the wrong one & then I looked at your post again.

I'm pleased that I could help. (I also added it to my Excel list.)

P-J
 
I've had no issues with scorching using a 1500watt HD stubby element in both the mash and boil of a cream ale. I also have a 5500 watt 240v element running at 120v which gets me 1375 watts ULWD (1/4 the rating at 240 as another poster pointed out).

I've used both in the mash and in a boil in a 10 gal setup (12+ gal boil). Took about 45 minutes to get there but got a good rolling boil.

There was some stuff caked/cooked on after the boil.. kinda like dried hotbreak and hop debris. It wasn't black or burnt, but it was stuck on. I just clean it real thoroughly with a scrubby and some unscented dish soap and it comes clean. These are mounted on heatsticks so cleanup is a breeze. I will say that both the HD and the ULWD elements had stuff caked on (but not burnt) so I'm inclined to think that the HD, LWD, ULWD distinction is not as important as some make it seem.

I think cleaning is the issue here. If you don't get the cooked on gunk off the element then it probably will burn overtime or just get nasty from sitting in the garage. Good cleaning and I think you'll be fine with any element. But stainless sure is nice, I do wish I had those elements P-J posted.... still, stainless doesn't render the thorough cleaning unnecessary
 
I have the 4500 watt SS version of those elements (Rheem) and they cake with break and other goodies. It requires a hot Oxiclean soak and then a final scrub/brushing to remove the gunk after every brew.
 
I had about 20 batches on one 4800w element, no problems, then got a bit lax with cleaning the actual element, burned out a couple more, now I immediately scrub it after the boil ends.

In Brewing Lager Beer he suggests using TSP to clean elements
 
Have (2) 1300 watt 120V heat sticks that work wonderfully for boiling 7 gallons of wort. At the end of the boil I use a sponge with a rough side to clean the element. I can almost keep 7 gallons rolling with one stick. In fact I brewed several batches of great beer with one stick when I started out.
(2) 2000 watt sticks may be more than necessary especially if they are in close proximity to each other. Try separating the elements and maybe turn off one element after the rolling boil is established.
I love electric, it cheap and does not throw off a lot of extraneous heat. While the extra BTUs might be welcomed up north in the winter, here in Florida it's a problem.
 
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