Do i need a new kettle?

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TYGR

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Hey guys,

After brewing my first two extract batches ive noticed an off flavor in both and id like to try to get rid of it. I cant tell if its "extract twang" that people speak of or if its due to my brew kettle.

Its a sort of metallic after taste that hangs on the back of the roof of your mouth.

My kettle is one of those cheap 21 quart granite wear pots and i did find a chip about 3mm in diameter in the bottom of it that shows exposed steel and rust. would that be enough to cause my off flavor or is it just the fact im using LME?

I would love a new kettle, but if i can get by with this one for awhile longer that would be great too. Although i cant justify brewing with it if i know its gonna make my beer taste like crap.
 
With the chip inside the pot, I wouldn't use it for brewing. Get either a stainless, or aluminum (then condition it) pot and make a kettle. IF you have the funds, you could always buy one pre-made. I would advise getting/making a 10 gallon kettle if you ever plan on going beyond extract recipes. Or you want to do full batch boils (gets you better beer)...
 
I wouldn't use it. You'd need to circumvent the sensor that comes on it. IMO, better off spending a few more dollars and getting a quality burner, from the start, that you won't need to replace later. I wish I had bought the Blichmann burner the first time. I ended up getting a Bayou KAB4 first, sold it once I had one Blichmann burner, then added a second Blichmann. Got the longer legs for one of them (where I mash and boil). The other goes onto a table to heat the sparge water. :D

IMO/IME, the only thing better than a Blichmann burner is a BadAss brew stand. :ban: One of those is in my future. :rockin:
 
Make sure you fill it with water and boil it for an hour before you use if for the first time. Need to build an oxide layer on that aluminum.

I have a 15 and 20 gallon aluminum pot and love them. Good luck!
 
I would question the detail of "Non-stick inside and out"... Is this a coated/clad/anodized pot or just aluminum??

If it's just aluminum then you'll want to do the oxide layer build on it. Depending on your water, that could take anything from 30 to 60 minutes. I would fill it as far as you can for this. You can also start with hot tap water, to make getting to the boil point easier.

Once it arrives, I would also install a 1/2" [stainless, 3 piece] ball valve into it and have a proper kettle. Use a 1/2" NPT to 1/2" compression fitting and you can install a dip tube inside too. Bargain Fittings has those for pretty cheap. IMO, the 'kettle conversion' kits with bulkheads are more fittings than you need. All you'll need is a way to make a 7/8" hole (step bits work really well and go through aluminum really easily).

Fittings:
1/2" NPT to compression fitting with dip tube.
1/2" ball valve.
Hose barb to go on the output side of the ball valve.
Total fittings cost: $44.24 (plus shipping). IMO/IME, money well spent.

Then just get some 1/2" ID silicone tubing to run the chilled wort to your fermenter. :ban:
 
I got my new kettle today, and despite what the ad said about non-stick its just regular old aluminum thankfully.

Can i still use my old kettle for things like heating up sparge water or is it pretty much useless in the realm of home brewing with that exposed steel?
 
I got my new kettle today, and despite what the ad said about non-stick its just regular old aluminum thankfully.

Can i still use my old kettle for things like heating up sparge water or is it pretty much useless in the realm of home brewing with that exposed steel?

I wouldn't use the old pot for anything to do with brewing now. If it wasn't chipped that would be different.
 
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