First brewing experience( fail?)

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Skyler914

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I just got finished brewing my second, first batch of beer. Yep, that's right, my second. During the first attempt I was cooling down the wort and when I put in the thermometer it hit the bottom of the pot a little to hard and cracked. All of the little lead weights came out and got all missed up in the wort. Sooooo, that got poured down the drain. And back to brewmasters warehouse I went.
My second batch has me a little nervous as well. I was following the directions step by step until I lost track of what number I was on. Long story short I forgot to put in the second half of the dry extract until the very end. Like the last 5 to 10 min. And this was after all the hops had already been added.... So I added it anyway.... I finished everything, cooled it down to 85 and poured in the yeast...the airlock start to bubble almost immediately and lasted for about 5 min. As it sits it's at 74 degrees and seems to have no activity.

Anybody have any insight as to whether or not its going to be ok? Or if I should just start over?
 
The late malt addition should be just fine, lots of brewers do that on purpose to avoid caramelizing the sugar. If your wort was too warm, you may have killed your yeast, shouldn't happen at 85 though. If nothing happens in a day or so, repitch with fresh yeast. You'll be fine.
 
All of the little lead weights came out and got all missed up in the wort. Sooooo, that got poured down the drain. And back to brewmasters warehouse I went.

Skyler, don't dump that brew next time! Those little pellets don't impart anything harmful to your brew and it hurts way more to dump out a batch AND buy a new thermometer - spoken from experience. Just make sure you get all the pellets out before it goes into the fermenter, you probably don't want your beer sitting on them for a month.

:mug:
 
A lot of people do late extract editions and it is common practice, so you are good on that front.

As far as the yeast goes, you shouldn't pitch at 85 because it is a little close to the temps. that can kill some yeast.

But since it isn't and the yeast might have been fine with the 85 degrees they might have went dormant from the drop in temperature From 85 to 74. Even though 74 is still a high temperature, certain yeast might perceive that drop in a sign to go to sleep.

If they perk back up and start working again, you might have some off flavors from the high temperatures.

A common practice is to pitch at 64 and let it rise to 68 and then finish at 70. But that depends on the recipe, but it is a common practice.

What type of beer were you brewing and what type of yeast are you using?
 
I'm really glad to hear so many people agree that it going to turn out alright. It makes me feel a whole lot better!




Eoin said:
What type of beer were you brewing and what type of yeast are you using?

The kit that I got from brewmasters is shoultz-Meyer brewery sw pale ale. They were out of the liquid extract so they gave me the dry extract that makes the same thing. The recipe for it calls for Nottingham but I was told I could use the white labs ale blend wlp060 that came with my original recipe.
 
Skyler914 said:
The recipe for it calls for Nottingham but I was told I could use the white labs ale blend wlp060 that came with my original recipe.

Others can correct me but an ale yeast fermented at 74 or higher will probably create esters that are unwanted, and will definitely make your beer not taste like it is supposed to. You will still have beer but it won't taste like the beer was intended to taste like.

Let us know if the beer starts to ferment.
 
I also add a lot of the malt just before the end of the boil.

From what I have read (How to Brew by John Palmer) it allows the wort to better absorb hop flavors/oils.

The first time I tried this with a continuously hopped ale recipe, my friends raved about it being "your best beer ever."
 
Also, although what you observed "immediately" probably wasn't fermentation. That would be highly unusual to get fermentation that quick. More likely some release of CO2from the wort or expansion of airspace due to an increase in temperature.

The inactivity at first is just your yeast building up oxygen before getting fully into the swing of fermenting sugars. By now, your fermenter is probably bubbling like mad, yes?
 
Others can correct me but an ale yeast fermented at 74 or higher will probably create esters that are unwanted, and will definitely make your beer not taste like it is supposed to. You will still have beer but it won't taste like the beer was intended to taste like.

Let us know if the beer starts to ferment.

I dont know it it makes a difference but the yeast was only pitched at 85, and right after it was put into a cooler set to 70.
 
Congratulations on your "second" first batch! When I started brewing, I obsessed about and over analyzed the hell out of everything. Looking back at some of my earlier posts when I first started, I laugh at how paranoid I was of screwing something up. For the most part, the process of extract brewing is very forgiving. As long as your equipment is clean, your ingredients are fresh, and anything that contacts the wort post. boil is sanitized.....very little can go wrong. Of course you have to watch your temps. while steeping grains and before pitching yeast, but after you have made it through the process several times you will develop your own brewing protocols.

I simply go to www.tastybrew.com and plug all of my ingredients into their recipe calculator.....steeping grains, extracts, hops, etc. and print it out. Not only does it give me an organized recipe to follow, but it helps to keep the process organized and your hop schedule in line when your timing your hop additions. It also provides you with traditional ranges for OG/FG, IBUs, SRM, and ABV for the style of beer that you are creating and how your recipe will compare to those ranges. Of course there are much more scientific programs out there like BeerSmith, but what the hell....this one is free.

Yes, I agree that 84 degrees is a little high, but not high enough to destroy our little beer making buddies. As you witnessed, once the temp. approached the ideal range of 68 to 70 'ish degrees, the yeast went to work as planned. Had you cooled your wort a little more into the ideal ranges for ale yeasts, the fermentation may have started a little quicker, but no harm/no foul......all is good and you will have beer! Lots of people do late extract additions to avoid "carmelization" and the extract "twang" aftertaste, which has been a hot topic of debate. I have only experienced off flavors, what many describe at the dreaded extract "twang" in two batches, both of which utilized old LME out of a can. I only use fresh DME for my extract batches and have not had an issue with off flavors since.

Do not brew in fear my friend.....enjoy the process! :mug:
 
you are indeed correct. About 13 hours later its bubbling like crazy. I may have to add more sanitized water to the airlock, cause it s bubbling out of the little holes in the top.

Another couple of words of advice. I use cheap vodka for standard airlocks, so I don't have to worry about boiling/sanitizing water. Also, I had a fun experience with my very first IPA. The fermentation was very vigorous and krausen and hop residue was pushed up into the airlock on my Ale Pale. My wife called me at work freaking out, because the lid blew off of the Ale Pale and showered our entire laundry room with krausen.....she was pi$$ed. For my primary fermenters, I now just use a blow off tube to prevent any obstructions in the airlock. I use a standard spigot, drilled a 7/8" hole in the lid where the rubber grommit was for the standard airlock and purchased a few feet of 3/8" ID tubing. The gasket for the spigot creates an airtight seal and the spigot is put in the ON position during fermentation. The rubber tubing connects to the hose barb on the spigot and the opposite end of the tubing is place in a bucket of water....about 1" below the surface of the water. Works great....and no more beer bombs, especially with higher gravity beers.
 
Fear not--everyone's broken some sort of glass implement in their brew at one point or other (I've done the thermometer bit myself...went & got a quality meat thermometer afterwards to avoid a second wasted batch).

As for worrying, it's part of learning to brew. Even HBT demi-gods like Yoop or Revvy had to get some batches under their belt at one point. It gets easier & less worrisome with time & experience...kind of like being a freshly graduated gynecologist.
 
Wow.. Tons of great info! I appreciate everyones input and willingness to help!

I just got home from work and snuck a peak in the cooler. It's still bubbling away, and when you take a whiff it feels like champagne for the nose, all tingly and whatnot.
 
It been a couple of day, I went in and checked on it yesterday. No bubbles. I went and checked on it today and still no bubbles. when I took a gravity reading its pretty close to what the instructions say it should be.. any thoughts? should I rack to a secondary?
 
any thoughts? should I rack to a secondary?

Most of the primary fermentation is done but you should leave it in the primary fermenter so the yeast can continue to work their magic on the other by products of the fermentation process. 10-14 days is a good rule of thumb for a beer like SW Pale Ale.

Thanks,

Ed
 
You are going to find great info here...I can say from experience. And like a wise man said...relax, don't worry, and have a home brew...or a good craft brew until you get a home brew.

My first batches were stressful as others will attest. Hoppopotmus explains "growing up" to be a home brewer quite well. You will screw something up, you will get better, and you will enjoy the hops and malt of your labor...just wait until you try all grain...cheers!
 
Today was bottling day. all in all I think it went pretty good. I had a friend from out of town help while he was here... the only thing I THINK I had a problem with is, while bottling I noticed the brew was a little hazy. Im not sure if its because of mixing everything up, or if its because maybe I didnt cool the wort down fast enought. But from what I've read, the haze you get from not cooling the wort fast enough is strictly an asethetic thing.

2 more weeks and I'll be drinking my own brew!
 
It'll take more than 2 weeks,more like the minimum of 3 weeks stated on here. Sometimes more,depending on the gravity/style. My pale ales usually take 3-4 weeks in the bottle. They're not just carbonating,they're aging as well.More time is better. But will vary by gravity.
 
Being your first batch, you'll be lucky to make it to 2 weeks without sampling your beer. But, hey, it's your beer! Just keep that 10 day old bottle in mind when you open a two month old bottle so you see how well it has matured.

Go with your gut and what you've read as far as developing your own processes but keep in mind that bubbling is not a reliable indication of fermentation; use that hydrometer! And most of all, RDWHAHB.
 
Today was bottling day. all in all I think it went pretty good. I had a friend from out of town help while he was here... the only thing I THINK I had a problem with is, while bottling I noticed the brew was a little hazy. Im not sure if its because of mixing everything up, or if its because maybe I didnt cool the wort down fast enought. But from what I've read, the haze you get from not cooling the wort fast enough is strictly an asethetic thing.

2 more weeks and I'll be drinking my own brew!

Yes, it's purely aesthetic, but you will eventually want to take care of that. By far, cold crashing is the best solution.

Your beer will start becoming drinkable/carbonated in 1 week if conditioned above 70F. I suggest you give one a go at that point. At 2 weeks, game on. They do get better over time, but go ahead and find out for yourself. Don't let anyone tell you there are any rules. There aren't. That's part of RDWHAHB

RDWHAHB
 
Well, imho, that haze you see is just stirred up yeast and left over trub. It will settle to the bottom of your beer bottles in a week or so.

The haze you've read about is the coagulation of proteins and peptides (have I got that right guys?) at low temps... like refrigerator temps. Warm up the brew and the chill haze dissipates as the bonds between protein and peptide are loosened. Unless you are bottling in a refrigerator, the haze you see is stirred up solids.

One thing I do is fill a clear bottle and use that as a "barometer" of how the bottled beer is progressing. I also "QA check" the beer after a week or ten days by opening a bottle. It should "pop" a little when you crank off the cap... and will taste pretty good.

The third week is when you really get good pressure in the bottle and foam will result. Also, after three weeks, chilling the beer for a few days in the fridge will make it even foamier. Has to do with the physics of space, pressure and temps.


I'm dying to know how your beer turns out, actually.
 
Chill haze isn't stirred up solids,it's a "fog" created by proteins at low temps. It settles out in a couple of days & the beer will be crystal clear again. The beer should be clear after a few weeks conditioning at room temp before going into the fridge.
 
I'm dying to know how your beer turns out, actually.

Don't let anyone tell you there are any rules. There aren't. That's part of RDWHAHB

RDWHAHB

Even though its only been a week, last night I put a bottle in the fridge because I was gettin curious/impatient. Earlier this afternoon I remembered it was in there and decided to go ahead and give it a shot. IT WAS AWESOME!! I had my friend who is still visiting give it a try and he agrees! It still technically has another week to go, but now I'm starting to get over those 1st batch jitters.. I can't wait to start getting some more brews under my belt and having fun.
 
I would say the temp is a little high to pitch the yeast! I pitch at around 68-70* and slowly bring down the temp to 66-69* I have made lots on mistakes and all my beer has came out just fine!!
Just let it sit as long as you can wait b4 you bottle.. 13-20 days ok. One thing you will learn is the airlock will not tell you any thing about whats going on in your beer! Have fun and drink a home brew!!! kophop
 
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