Self Sealing Hex Screws

Hey guys, I'm looking for a solution for grounding my heating element. I figure a stainless steel bold, some washers, and seals would work. But than I found these (http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=7v4osb) McMaster-Carr self sealing screws. Anyone have any experience with these?

Is this being used on a kettle or keg? If its a keg just attach it to the skirt. I soldered an SS bolt to my keggle and fastened the wire connector to it.

pickles said:

Is this being used on a kettle or keg? If its a keg just attach it to the skirt. I soldered an SS bolt to my keggle and fastened the wire connector to it.

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An aluminum kettle.

You can always tap (thread) a hole drilled into the "hex Head" of the element and ground it there. I'm not sure if solder will work but I bet a google search would give you the answer. My guess is that it can be soldered.

pickles said:

You can always tap (thread) a hole drilled into the "hex Head" of the element and ground it there. I'm not sure if solder will work but I bet a google search would give you the answer. My guess is that it can be soldered.

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That's an excellent idea, but I would guess a bigger pain than just drilling a hole in my kettle and throwing a screwing it.

HIM_Tattoos said:

That's an excellent idea, but I would guess a bigger pain than just drilling a hole in my kettle and throwing a screwing it.

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Could you drill the hole at the top so you don't have to even seal it?

HIM_Tattoos said:

That's an excellent idea, but I would guess a bigger pain than just drilling a hole in my kettle and throwing a screwing it.

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I just wouldn't trust a self-tapping screw to hold in that thin sidewall. Especially when it secures the ground. I say you through bolt it or tap the head.

mattd2 said:

Could you drill the hole at the top so you don't have to even seal it?

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Then you'd have to run a long ground wire from the bottom where the element is to the top, I don't like that idea. It would get snagged I'd think.

mattd2 said:

Could you drill the hole at the top so you don't have to even seal it?

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I believe that the ground wire needs to come in contact with liquid. Doesn't it?

Thus my wanting a bolt on the inside contacting with liquid and the wire contacting with the bolt.

But correct me if I'm wrong, that would make this a lot easier.

HIM_Tattoos said:

I believe that the ground wire needs to come in contact with liquid. Doesn't it?

Thus my wanting a bolt on the inside contacting with liquid and the wire contacting with the bolt.

But correct me if I'm wrong, that would make this a lot easier.

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No, it doesn't...

Grounding the metal, either directly on the element, or on the pot (Which is electrically connected to the element) is all you need to do.

Everything is touching everything in an electric BK - You could wrap your ground around the handle and get a good ground - Not that I'd recommend that

The problem with drilling a hole then using like a oring to seal is if you put the oring on the outside between the pot and screw, there goes your connection. I'd ground to the element or solder a nut onto the outside of the pot to screw the screw into, not drilling into the pot.

Drill a hole, insert a machine screw from the inside with a gasket between the head and kettle wall. Put a lock washer and nut on the outside and tighten. Slide the wire lug on and use another lock washer and nut. Now you have a seal from the inside and can remove the wire without breaking the seal if you need to. Of course, make sure the screw length is correct.

Bobby M has a good idea. You are not going to be able to solder SS to aluminum...possibly with specialty equipment, but not with home equipment. I would not trust a screw or bolt to make a water tight seal, even NPT screws which are designed for the purpose need teflon tape to make a solid seal and 2-3 full threads of contact to make it. Further as someone mention you would have hardly any threads on the thin wall of the kettle and would likely strip them out. You might be able to find an aluminum bulkhead that you could weld to the kettle...but again, Bobby M's idea is much easier.

Bobby M's idea is exactly my plan, except I was hoping to use one of these sealing bolts to skip the o-ring on the interior and than an o-ring on the outside. Sounds like this is my best bet. To the hardware store I go, not going to waste my time with waiting for shipping.

Good thought, just won't work. But, a bolt, washer, o-ring and a couple nuts is pretty easy just the same. Have fun at the Despot.

HIM_Tattoos said:

Hey guys, I'm looking for a solution for grounding my heating element. I figure a stainless steel bold, some washers, and seals would work. But than I found these (http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=7v4osb) McMaster-Carr self sealing screws. Anyone have any experience with these?

Click to expand...

I am concerned about galvanic corrosion from the difference in electrochemical potential between the aluminum vessel and whatever other metals are in ionic and electrical path with it thanks to the beer. Are you adding a grounding wire to your heating element?

Personally, I ground to the washer I use on the outside of the pot. My ground is soldered right to the washer.