benefit to 1/4" or 5/16" barbed shutoff valve

is there a benefit to a 1/4" or 5/16" barbed shutoff valve coming out of my regulator? all my ball lock things gas and beer have the 1/4" barb and swivel nut fitting and then on the dual regulator i've got one 1/4" screw in barb thing and then a 5/16" barbed shut off valve... i'm thinking i'm just gonna buy two 5/16" barbed shutoff valves for the regulator and then two 5/16" barbed and swivel nut fittings for the gas ball lock... this seem good? Also, i'm having a hell of a time trying to unscrew the current valves that are in the regulator... looks like they've got the teflon tape around them... . any tips as to how to do this without breaking something?

Update on my post...

This is my regulator

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/double-co2-regulator.html

Except instead of a 5/16" barbed shutoff valve on the right hand side I've got what looks like a ball check valve on the right like in this picture

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/cornelius-dual-gauge-regulator-w-1-4-mfl-ball-check-valve.html

I've ordered a new 5/16" barbed shutoff valve so it matches and looks pretty and have been wrestling with wrenches and vice grips to unscrew the existing ball check valve but now that I've realized what it is I'm wondering if I want to leave it and if it's actually better than the ones with the switches?

Advice on all of the above thx

i don't understand what you're asking or trying to fix.

yeah, the valves/gauges come screwed on d*mn tight. my advice is be careful and don't f it up

i don't understand what i'm asking either... lol. what's the difference between the ball check valve with the red switch and the one that is just some brass thing screwed in...

hm, still confused. "brass thing screwed in"...?

a check valve is a valve that only allows gas to flow one way

a ball valve is a valve that has a rotating ball that allows for manual shut-off only

a ball check valve has both

this is a crap photoshop job but you get the idea. this is what my regulator looks like (right hand ball check valve thing is smaller of course)



i had wanted to remove the valve on the right and just get a matching red switch one but it's stuck like hell, now i'm just wondering if i should leave it and adapt something else, or keep trying to remove it or what... i know it's very OCD of me but I feel this desire to have both matching.

now i understand.

so, what is probably on there is just a check valve. gas can only flow one way, but you can't manually shut that line off.

up to you if you want a manual. I personally like having a manual everywhere. and they're not very expensive.

this is all assuming it is a check valve. if it's just a 1/4" MPT to 1/4" flare converter piece, then yes, at least get a check valve

yea, i'd like a manual there as well. so then back to my other question... how the f do i get that sucker off? i was thinking about heating it up with a hair dryer and then going at it.

i wouldn't go too wild with heat

just get a long wrench and use da force

how am i do know if it's reverse threaded or not. i could be tightening it for all i know

that's a good point, but i'd be surprised if it was

can you see any threads? otherwise, it might be marked, or you'll have to get a model # and call the manf.

don't have a vise. mebbe it's time i got one. i think what i'm gonna do is bring the regulator with me when i go fill up my co2 tanks and ask those guys if they can remove it.

got a vise, and a hair dryer.... got it off