Equipment list, anything missing?

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timduncan200021

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So my first brew is conditioning in bottles right now, it is a mr beer american classic light HME with an added lb of light DME. It was definitely an adventure and not because of any technical brewing mistakes but because of kids who put ice cubes and toilet paper inside the lbk during the cold crash two days prior to bottling. Needless to say I was able to recover and the beer is clear as water conditioning in bottles now.

SWMBO gave the go ahead on moving up to a 5 gallon setup and after doing TONS of reading I think I am going to start doing BIAB. The sticky here on it is amazing and very thorough and easy to understand, thank you. I went on the website of my LHBS and basically picked out all the equipment that I believe that I will need to start a pipeline for myself. I do have a 6.5 gallon aluminum pot already that I plan on using and it "should" be big enough for the BIAB. I didn't include a burner because I will try my stove top first. I'm trying to start out as simple as possible and then add for there as the need arises. So if you don't mind taking a look and letting me know where I might be missing a necessity please let me know. I am super excited to be moving up to 5gallon BIAB batches.

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I've never really looked at the mr beer kits. You do have a hydrometer right? You are also going to need a big pot to do the boil in.
 
Other then your actual fermentables and flavor additions, you should be pretty good. A wort chiller would be a nice addition, the extra volume of the 5 gallon batch is going to make it more difficult to cool the liquid to pitching temps. Something to get a good accurate temp reading of your wort would be good.
 
- 1 or 2 more hydrometers (they break) ;)
- PBW or another good brew cleaner (you can use other cleaners, even dish soap and bleach, but you run the risk of not cleaning them well enough and impacting your beer
- Foaming acid based sanitizer (San Star is the best - mix with distilled water for best results)
- Wort chiller - you can't dilute out a BIAB batch, and its a pain to cool a full batch without one.

The 6.5 gallon pot might be a little small for the mash and a 5 gallon boil. BIAB uses the full volume of water plus what is absorbed by your grain, so there is some risk of overflow. You may also risk boil-over if you're not careful.

Before you run out and get a new pot, wort chiller, etc. you might want to try a smaller BIAB batch. A 3 gallon would work fine in the setup you described, and you can see whether your stove is up to the task (without having an extra long brew day).
 
Yeah the wort chiller is on the wish list, and I do hard a birthday coming up in not to long so maybe then. Although I am tempted to just DIY and rig one up from some of the instructions online. I've always enjoyed building things if I can it gives a greater satisfaction.
 
How do you plan to control fermentation temps? You need a fermometer (stick on thermometer) at a minimum and some way to keep the beer at a constant, under 70 degrees, liquid temp while fermenting. Keep in mind that the beer temp on a vigorous fermentation can easily reach 10 degrees higher than ambient. Research swamp coolers on here and maybe add a plastic bin to your list. Or since you like DIY then I highly recommend building a fermentation chamber. Everything else is a waste if your fermentation temps run away and your beer turns into paint thinner.
 
Yeah the wort chiller is on the wish list, and I do hard a birthday coming up in not to long so maybe then. Although I am tempted to just DIY and rig one up from some of the instructions online. I've always enjoyed building things if I can it gives a greater satisfaction.

+1 on DIY giving greater satisfaction, however if you don't already have a some tubing laying around you may very well be better off (financially) to go ahead and buy one off the shelf.... Worth pricing out though.
 
I am probably wrong but I'm just going off of the partial mash/BIAB sticky https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/
In his method he only uses two 5 gallon pots one of them with 2-3 gallons water for mashing about (1.25 qts per lb of grain) and another with 2-3 gallons of sparge water and then combines them for the hop boil and then tops off with bottles water when needed. I am probably misunderstanding somewhere along the lines so I'm going to research it a bit more. I did buy the starsan just need to add cleaner to the list. I also bought a couple fermometers last brew and I have a floating thermometer on its way. With my first brew I was able to keep it inside the house and it stays around 70-75 degrees in here so I planned on placing the bucket in a cooler with water and necessary water bottles to keep it around 60-65 to start. Although I am going to be making a golden monkey clone (a Belgian tripel by victory) and plan to start off cool and then let it rise to room temp to bring out some of the esters from the Belgian yeast.
 
I'm going to make a somewhat radical suggestion.

I'm sort of near to where you are in this whole process. I've done a few small (Mr. Beer-size) batches. I've got a couple of them fermenting right now. One is a Mr. Beer HME can with added DME, steeped grains and two hop additions. The other (likely much better) batch is made from Briess LME, steeped grains and 2 hop additions. I'm going to do at least one more small batch before making the move to 5-gallon, mini-mash, and then hopefully BIAB several batches later.

Before jumping off into larger batch BAIB, may I suggest that you first spend a bit of time (and some $$) addressing important things like fermentation temperature control and batch integrity (keeping it away from small kiddies)? If you don't already have an extra fridge or freezer, hunt for one on CL. They can often be had for cheap. Build yourself a temp control box using an STC-1000 and rig up one of the DIY paint can heaters. For less than $45 plus the fridge/freezer, you can have precise temp control and in a place where your brew will be more secure.

Do a few more small (2.5 gal will fit in your LBK) batches with un-hopped extract (LME or DME) as your base. Your results will likely be a whole lot tastier than just using the Mr. Beer ingredients by themselves. Get comfortable with steeping grains and doing hop boils. Get familiar with rehydrating dry yeast, cooling wort and getting pitch temps adjusted.

For me, each successive brew session has gotten more smooth, I can anticipate most things better, and I've become much more comfortable with the process. It's been a fun learning experience and I look forward to learning more with each batch.
 
I would recommend a scale that can handle more than just 11lbs as it can grow with your desire to make more or bigger beers. Plus it will have other uses say for shipping.
 
I would also pick up a few extra air locks and convert a couple into blow off tubes(air lock with a 1/2 tube in the center) that way if you have a vigorous fermentation you will not have a mess. I see you also plan on buying a racking cane and an auto-siphon.. why both?
 
It would probably be good to mention that even if you have no temp control setup, it will still be beer. :) It's better beer if you have a temp control setup, but it's still beer if you don't.
 
You could make your own wort chiller for about $30. I just used 25' of 1/2" copper refrigeration tubing, coiled it around one of my kegs, bought a sink/hose adapter attachment, a few clamps, and some vinyl tubing. I made it on my first BIAB batch. It fits in my 40qt pot perfectly and cools to pitching temp in about 10-15 minutes depending on the time of year.
 
You could make your own wort chiller for about $30. I just used 25' of 1/2" copper refrigeration tubing, coiled it around one of my kegs, bought a sink/hose adapter attachment, a few clamps, and some vinyl tubing. I made it on my first BIAB batch. It fits in my 40qt pot perfectly and cools to pitching temp in about 10-15 minutes depending on the time of year.

Would LOVE to know where you get 25' of 1/2 copper refrigeration tubing for around $20 (fittings will cost at least $10). Plumbing (water) tubing is more than that, and refrigeration tubing is even more......

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...1/2"+COPPER+TUBING&storeId=10051#.UPVuSvI5iSo
 
It would probably be good to mention that even if you have no temp control setup, it will still be beer. :) It's better beer if you have a temp control setup, but it's still beer if you don't.

True dat.

The problem at my house is that, except for a few months out of the year (like right now), I've got the A/C running and the thermostat set at 75. Setting it lower would greatly increase my already high electric bill.

I could indeed make some beer fermenting in a closet at that ambient temp, but I'd be wasting my time, effort and money unless I did swamp cooling, ice bottles in a tub, wet T-shirt or one of the other techniques that requires regular attendance. No thanks.

My point to the OP is to patiently take the time to successfully address fundamental factors and to become familiar/comfortable with the process before ramping it up so soon. He's already had a problem with keeping small children out of his fermentation. A fridge/freezer would help him with that since he can latch/lock it if needed.

 
You always have the option of doing 5 gallon extract batches instead of jumping to all-grain right away. But if you get the stuff for the BIAB you will have everything you need for extracts as well. I dont think you need the auto-siphon and a racking cane. Its repetitive. All you need is the Auto-Siphon and the tubing for it. Wort chiller is great too. Temperature control for an ale can be as easy as finding a spot in the house or garage that stays between 65-75 or so. If youre going to use the PET bottles that came with the Mr. Beer you will need more of them but if not you will need a capper. There a lots of little items out there that make brewing easier but not needed like a bottle rinser but you can get by without them. I really recommend doing the extract kits for bit. Everything you need for the beer minus the equipment is in the box with these. Plus they have instructions that will help get you in the process of how things work and additions. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with. :mug:
 
Would LOVE to know where you get 25' of 1/2 copper refrigeration tubing for around $20 (fittings will cost at least $10). Plumbing (water) tubing is more than that, and refrigeration tubing is even more......

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...1/2"+COPPER+TUBING&storeId=10051#.UPVuSvI5iSo

It was at a local hardware store the next town over from me. I did this about a year ago and if I remember right it all came in at $32. Yes, the most expensive part was the copper, which was around $25, but it didn't come in a pre-packaged coil, it was by the foot. I used tubing and a clamp on the end that the cold water comes out from the coil, no need for a fitting there. I used one stainless steel faucet to garden hose attachment which was a few dollars and then a garden hose attachment with a tapered end, which I actually found in the camping section and was a few dollars. I priced it at Home Depot and Lowes and then on a whim went to the local hardware store and for once it was cheaper to buy locally and improvise a bit.
 
To do some temperature control - Limited control that is.

Go to a TSC (Tractor Supply) or sometimes Home Depot has them.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tub-24-protein-cattle-2512736
They are called Mash Tub's or similar.

I use a Mash Tub and put it in a location that is COOL and Dark. Fill it with Cool Water and use an Aquarium Heater and set it at the lowest temperature of 68. I keep my house around 70 degrees year round. 68 Winter / 72 Summer ish... If my beer starts to rise in temp I can throw in a little ice and swirl it around to cool the water down to the range where the heater tries to warm it up...

Good thing is my beer stays within about 2 degrees of where I like it at 68.

That is until the in-laws visit and love to play with the thermostat in the house.
 
It was at a local hardware store the next town over from me. I did this about a year ago and if I remember right it all came in at $32. Yes, the most expensive part was the copper, which was around $25, but it didn't come in a pre-packaged coil, it was by the foot. I used tubing and a clamp on the end that the cold water comes out from the coil, no need for a fitting there. I used one stainless steel faucet to garden hose attachment which was a few dollars and then a garden hose attachment with a tapered end, which I actually found in the camping section and was a few dollars. I priced it at Home Depot and Lowes and then on a whim went to the local hardware store and for once it was cheaper to buy locally and improvise a bit.

Excellent buy (even a year ago)!
 
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