Brewhemoth conicals?

hellfaucet said:

I ordered mine last Monday and am piecing together all my accessories from brewershardware.com right now before it ships.

Couple questions:

• I got an extra tri clover fitting right above the racking fitting, above the bottom cone. I was hoping to put a thermoeter on that fitting. Does anyone have any suggestions of which thermometer to use for this? I didn't want to run a super long thermowell from the top down, and was also hoping to use an analog thermometer, not digital. What's my best option?
• Is a sight glass worth it as a yeast collector?

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Stout tanks has what you want. They use a triclamp thermowell that an analogue thermometer screws into.
http://conical-fermenter.com/about/attachment/new-thermowell-with-thermometer-and-clamp/
You will have to email them about it, I could not find it for sale on its own.

fakr said:

The only suggestion I have for you is to mix up some rinseless sanitizer, like starsan, in the brewhemoth with the spunding valve attached to the dump or racking port. Turn the pressure knob to 0psi, and pressurize the fermenter. It will blow starsan through the spunding valve and clean it up. Not ideal, but it works.

Personally, with previous spunding experience in kegs, I built my own spunding valve with an inline pressure regulator, and attach it to a "blow off" keg. So the blowoff hose on the brewhemoth attaches to a corney keg, and then attach the spunding valve to the other port on the keg. You have to remove the long liquid dip tube and and replace it with a short gas dip tube. All the krausen falls into the bottom of the keg and not through the spunding valve.

This is the only way I've been able to keep spunding valves nice and clean.

Hope that helps.

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The "blow off keg" is a great idea.

I also like the pressurized conical with starsan idea, but I really think I need to attack the valve with some PBW at this point. Have you pressurized a Brewhemoth full of PBW, then rinsed it with a pressurized Brewhemoth full od Starsan? I think that's what I'll try...

Does anyone know which model freezer the brewhemoth easily fits into? Black Heart brewing has some but I didn't get an answer from them on the make/model.

stand up or chest freezer?

Stand up. Thanks.

Ah, I ask because I have a chest freezer with a custom box built on top...If I remember correctly the dimentions are 26"x46" and holds both of them, though it's a tight squeeze.

Problem I found trying to find a standup freezer is that most of them have the cooling lines built right into the shelving so you can't remove them to fit the brewhemoth.

Might want to ask these guys as they have fridges that they put theirs in:

The standup freezers you want are "frost free." They tend not to have coils in the shelves.

I thought I would give this thread a bump.

I have been doing some research on the brewhemoth and pressure fermenting and I have a plan to use my future brewhemoth as an all in one: fermenter-Beer Bright-Serving Tank.

The Plan:
1. Pressure ferment in the Brewhemoth
2. Dump the yeast regularly to avoid the packed yeast cake
3. Cold crash the Brewhemoth by putting it in a stand up kegerator
4. Attach your tap (Tap Dispense Line) to the racking port
5. Dispense your fresh beer


The Pros:
-Less steps to get beer to the tap
-Less cleaning
-Less $$


The Cons:
-Fermenter is occupied while you serve when it could be fermenting more beer
-This creates a bubble while the new batch is being brewed that you do not have beer on tap. (This is easily fixed by simply having some extra bottled beer to get you by while waiting).
-Will the PSI run out before all beer is dispensed?


I am taking this idea from the Williams Warn Personal Brewery as this is generally how their product works. The reason I am looking at doing this is to reduce the amount of steps and hardware needed to get my beer to the tap.


What are your thoughts? Has anyone tried this?

If you had another fridge with a tap for kegs, you could use the brewhemoth as a big keg until just before brew day, then transfer the remainder of the beer into kegs and put them in your keg fridge.

I had thought the same as you before I got my brewhemoths, but quickly realized that I just didn't have the room to keep a 22GAL brewhemoth at serving temperatures. I have a fermentation chamber that goes down below 32F, but my fermentation chamber would be occupied until the beer is gone. I've also found that the racking port on the bottom of the brewhemoths are just a little too close to the dump port so you're always pulling cloudy beer off the bottom. The conical part of the brewhemoth is a 45 degree, not a 60 degree so trub and yeast do sit on the wall...not very thick mind you, but it's there. So each beer you pour will be cloudy.

Having 2 brewhemoths, I even considered using one as a fermenter and one as a bright tank for cleaning up the beer. With the work involved with cleaning those sucker, I haven't done this yet. I did just get a chill coil and have built a pelletier cooling block to regulate temps, but haven't got it all together yet.

If you use the Brewhemoth spunding valve, you can easily hook CO2 to the Brewhemoth to keep it carbed. I'm not sure you will have that many cloudy yeast issues. Dump two or three times, tapping the sides each time, should result in clear beer. Getting the proper restriction to the tap, that is the biggest issue I see.

Thats true Dale. A couple of dumps just before bottling/kegging works well. Just not sure how clear each glass would be for the first third or so of the brewhemoth if you fermented and served out of it....by the glass.

Thats nothing negative about the brewhemoth specifically, i get the same thing from kegs when i dont use a clearing agent. First third of the keg is a bit cloudy, but clears up over time and pours.

DaleP said:

Getting the proper restriction to the tap, that is the biggest issue I see.

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That is the part that I was wondering about next. I have not kegged and connected to a tap before so this question may sound newbish: How much psi can a tap hold back? Or maybe the proper question would be what is the proper serving psi and why?

I am estimating that the brewhemoth will have around 20-30 psi to start with and then slowly loose psi as the tank empties. I want to do this with the natural co2 and psi only, no external co2 tanks if possible. Any thoughts?

Without co2 back pressure you'll end up with dribble pours and flat beer.

Download a psi vs temp for volumes of co2 you want in your beer and adjust your beer line length and size accordingly.

http://www.homebrew.com/pdfs/CO2chart.pdf

So example, if you serve your beer at 36F and want your beer carbonated to 2.5 volumes of co2, you would want to maintain a keg psi of 10-11psi. This is static and shouldnt change for the whole keg dispensing.

You also want a good consistent pour from your tap, like filling a pint in 6-8 seconds. To do this you need to adjust the total length of your beer line...shorter the beer line, less restriction and a faster pour. Longer means more restriction and a slower pour.

Most beer line runs of under 8ish feet would typically use 3/16" beer line. Start with 8 feet and check your pour. If its too slow, cut a foot off and try again until you get the pour you want while maintaining the 10-11 psi in your keg.

Make sense?

If you make a wide range of beer and want every keg to pour nice and have the proper volumes of co2 in it, you'll need several beer lines. A shorter one for stout for instance, and a long one for wheat beers..

Landshark67 said:

RC racking arm and sample valve arrived yesterday from Morebeer. Last piece of the puzzle is the carbonation stone with TC cap and a ball lock adapter. Looking forward to the Brewhemuth arriving......will take the day off work and brew!

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Can anyone explain or post a link of this rc racking arm that's mentioned. Trying to order 2 brewhemoths this Friday

Nm it's on page 29 of this thread
http://morebeer.com/products/conical-racking-arm-sample-valve-assembly.html

Double post

SankePankey said:

You mean... alike-a deees?
(courtesy of brewershardware)

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Alright guys last ? I promise...... maybe lol but I've looked all over where I thought this might be on brewershardware but didn't see it. Is this a custom piece. Any info on it? Is this complete custom from brewershardware. I'm fine with that just would like to know specs.
It's post number 391 on page 40

I ordered mine from morebeer.
http://morebeer.com/products/2-oxygenation-assembly-conical-fermenters.html

They also have an inch and a half one as well.

RiverCityBrewer said:

I ordered mine from morebeer.
http://morebeer.com/products/2-oxygenation-assembly-conical-fermenters.html

They also have an inch and a half one as well.

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I did say last question lol cuz I knew there would be a followup. Where on the brewhemoth did you utilize. My though is I want to use it for oxygenation and maybe some co2 to help rouse the yeast when fermenting high Abv beers like 120 minute. Are you utilizing morebeers yeast harvester as well or just using it in an additional fitting you had added. Thanks so much for your reply!

Doc, isn't it easier to oxygenate when running through your chiller with an inline stone on your chiller output? Just thinking if you add something like this to your fermenter you have to have one on each fermenter.

fpweeks said:

Doc, isn't it easier to oxygenate when running through your chiller with an inline stone on your chiller output? Just thinking if you add something like this to your fermenter you have to have one on each fermenter.

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For most beers this is true and I plan on doing so with my sabco chill wizard, but I plan on brewing higher gravity beers such as Scotland's 120 minute clone which has multiple dextrose additions and a wlp 099 pitch after initial fermentation is done. The way things are looking I'm gonna get a extra fitting for a thermowell and one for an oxygenation stone unless someone can explain why it wouldn't be a good idea.

After looking at the morebeer link again i see what they do.......the yeast harvester is after the bottom dump valve so it can be installed with the valve closed...open valve blast with O2.....close valve. remove stone. Still seems easier to me to oxygenate while chilling.

If you leave the stone in during the whole fermentation, i would think that you would have a hell of a time cleaning it afterwards...and once one of those stones gets plugged up, ive not been successful in cleaning them

I can't speak for the O2 stone but I'd definately get an extra fitting for the temp probe. Honestly I think it should be standard. Otherwise you have to buy a 20"+ temp probe and go in from the top.

Doctor_M said:

I did say last question lol cuz I knew there would be a followup. Where on the brewhemoth did you utilize. My though is I want to use it for oxygenation and maybe some co2 to help rouse the yeast when fermenting high Abv beers like 120 minute. Are you utilizing morebeers yeast harvester as well or just using it in an additional fitting you had added. Thanks so much for your reply!

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I do have the yeast harvester, so I bought the 2 inch version. After using it with the sightglass a few times I decided that I don't particularly gain anything by being able to see it. Based on that now I just use a 2" to 1.5" reducer and hook up to the bottom of the conical. With either the 2" or 1.5" you are going to need something to extend the length a bit or the oxygenation stone won't fit.

RiverCityBrewer said:

I do have the yeast harvester, so I bought the 2 inch version. After using it with the sightglass a few times I decided that I don't particularly gain anything by being able to see it. Based on that now I just use a 2" to 1.5" reducer and hook up to the bottom of the conical. With either the 2" or 1.5" you are going to need something to extend the length a bit or the oxygenation stone won't fit.

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I think I got it...... so with the way you are using the reducers that allows enough space for the oxygen stone to fit inside the reducers and you can still open and close the bottom dump valve with the oxygen stone attached correct? So I could sanitize the oxygen stone and attach to the conical and when done close the bottom valve and take off the oxygen stone right? Sorry for all the ?'s just making sure I understand correctly. Looks like I only need one e extra fitting for a thermowell. I think. Lol

Doc
I have a 1-1/2 sight glass that i use as a yeast catcher with my current hdpe conical.....and i love it! When you get your brewhemoths i would definitely recommend getting one. The actual yeast catcher from more beer is rather pricey....http://www.brewershardware.com/Sight-Glasses/
thats where i got mine.....i would think if you got the 2" sight glass a reducer and the short oxygenation stone (1-1/2") from more beer that would cover your bases....

For those using the immersion chiller for cooling instead of a fridge what are you then using for heat? I've seen the ferm wrap by fermentap but it's sized for a carboy. Any suggestions?

I used terrarium heater tape (same as fermwrap) and cut it to size and tapped it to the conical. You can buy everything you need from most pet stores.

RiverCityBrewer said:

I used terrarium heater tape (same as fermwrap) and cut it to size and tapped it to the conical. You can buy everything you need from most pet stores.

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Awesome! Thanks for all your replies so far guys!

http://beanfarm.com/index.php?cPath=1204_1205

Here you go. Everything you need is here. I'm just not sure what the bolt spacing is for the legs. This is what I'm planning on doing for heating. Cooling will be by a homemade glycol chiller. Im working on a control panel with 3 love controllers, one to control the glycol chiller, and two dual stage controllers to heat/cool each brewhemoth.

Hey everyone, I just got my brewhemoth with spunding valve so I can pressure ferment and started my first 5 gal batch of belgian wit yesterday! I had good yeast activation prior to pitching so I know its working in there but the spunding valve still shows 0psi after about 30 hrs. My hope was to get between 5-10 psi by the end of secondary so I am concerned that I may not achieve that. I read earlier in this thread that with larger batches they were seeing pressure reaching 5 psi in as little as 24hrs. Maybe 5 gal does not produce enough CO2 in such a large container to raise the pressure to that level? Doses anyone have experience with pressure fermenting 5 gal batches in the brewhemoth that can lend some thoughts?

It takes longer with a smaller batch. I did an 11gal batch last time and it took a few days to see pressure. Give it time, it will run up to 15 psi for you. That's where I'm at now and still bleeding off excess co2.

Thank you! I was starting to get worried.

There is 17 gallons of air....definitely will take a while to build pressure. I'm sure i could have attempted the calcs 25 years ago in engineering school.....but not now!

I just checked and it is now at 7 psi. Thanks Ill keep you posted.

I usually run it at 7 for a few days then ramp to 15.

Anyone with a thermowell port added above the cone which should be about the 5 gallon mark: I have 6" long thermowells on backorder and am wondering if I should have gone with 3". I will be be utilizing the 3/8 internal chiller.

Doctor_M said:

Anyone with a thermowell port added above the cone which should be about the 5 gallon mark: I have 6" long thermowells on backorder and am wondering if I should have gone with 3". I will be be utilizing the 3/8 internal chiller.

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Mine is just above the cone, less than an inch. It is just above the five gallon mark or it is in the kruasen. What I did was get a 6.5" thermowell and give it a gradual bend. Take it to an auto parts store and use a tubing bender to get it to a total of 45 degrees. This put the end of the thermowell halfway between the wall and the chiller and in the middle top to bottom for 5 gallons. If I do a 10 gallon batch I rotate it 45 degrees and it is perfect. For 20 gallons I point it straight up. I use a STC-1000 temp controller and it fits down to the end with no problem.

cfrazier77 said:

Mine is just above the cone, less than an inch. It is just above the five gallon mark or it is in the kruasen. What I did was get a 6.5" thermowell and give it a gradual bend. Take it to an auto parts store and use a tubing bender to get it to a total of 45 degrees. This put the end of the thermowell halfway between the wall and the chiller and in the middle top to bottom for 5 gallons. If I do a 10 gallon batch I rotate it 45 degrees and it is perfect. For 20 gallons I point it straight up. I use a STC-1000 temp controller and it fits down to the end with no problem.

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The NTC probe fits down the Brewer's Hardware probes?

thatjonguy said:

The NTC probe fits down the Brewer's Hardware probes?

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I have two probes, one from brewers hardware and one from morebeer. I bent the one from more beer and the STC-1000 probe slides to the bottom. The one from brewers hardware is actually bigger and would work better.

cfrazier77 said:

I have two probes, one from brewers hardware and one from morebeer. I bent the one from more beer and the STC-1000 probe slides to the bottom. The one from brewers hardware is actually bigger and would work better.

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Thanks! I got some weird looking probe from Amazon with mine so I an going to pick up a regular one on eBay.