All-Grain IIPA

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NorthwestBrewman2013

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So, I'm getting ready to brew my first All-Grain batch of beer. I'm brewing with a buddy that has used that method for a while. I showed him my recipe to get his two cents and I wanted to get some other opinions as well. I created this recipe myself and feel as if it is well put together for my personal tastes. I love big hop flavor, bitterness and aroma. I would much rather have that in an IIPA than a super malty sugary bomb. Anyway, here is the recipe:

Boil: 6.25 gallons

Mash at 156 degrees for 1 hour
Sparge with 162 degree water

Grains

15LBS American 2-row
1LBS Carapils
8oz Crystal 30
8oz Caramel 10

Hop Schedule

1oz Columbus @60
2oz Cascade @15
2oz Centennial @15
1.5oz Columbus @15
1oz Cascade @flameout (Steep 10 minutes)
1oz Centennial @flameout (Steep 10 minutes)

Dry Hop

2oz Cascade
1oz Centennial

Yeast

Trappist High Gravity Yeast or Safale 05 (two packets rehydrated)

Primary 10-12 days
Secondary 5-7 days with dry hop

The OG that I came up with was 1.096
FG should be about 1.023

Any assistance on hop scheduling would be enjoyed. Also, what yeast would you choose and why? Thanks in advance! Cheers!
 
I've been reading that 2 packets of Safeale-05 yeast would really help this out. Clean, crisp and lowers gravity to a much better level than any liquid yeast. Thoughts??
 
Having an OG that high, yes you will want two packets, or at least 1 1/2. That yeast will be just fine, it's a nice clean yeast for pale ales, ipas, etc.
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
The OG that I came up with was 1.096
FG should be about 1.023
Click to expand...
My Malty says gives the following yeast recommendations and I've have ordered them beginning with the most appealing option to me if I was brewing this beer:

Option 1 - 2 Wyeast packs, 1000 mL starter on my stir plate for 18 hours

Option 2 - 2 Wyeast packs, 2700 mL starter, no stir plate

Option 3 - 1.6 US-05 11.5 gram dry yeast

Option 4 - 3.5 Wyeast packs, no starter
 
jflongo said:
Having an OG that high, yes you will want two packets, or at least 1 1/2. That yeast will be just fine, it's a nice clean yeast for pale ales, ipas, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I'm hoping to get the alcohol above 9% (hence the high gravity). I'm assuming with this recipe a 75% efficiency with the mash. The IBU calculated out to about 110. I felt that the high IBU level was very balance with the hops I chose.
 
MorrisBrewingCo said:
My Malty says gives the following yeast recommendations and I've have ordered them beginning with the most appealing option to me if I was brewing this beer:

Option 1 - 2 Wyeast packs, 1000 mL starter on my stir plate for 18 hours

Option 2 - 2 Wyeast packs, 2700 mL starter, no stir plate

Option 3 - 1.6 US-05 11.5 gram dry yeast

Option 4 - 3.5 Wyeast packs, no starter
Click to expand...


Thanks! I'm still new to the different types of yeast. I've used Safeale 05 on a Brown Ale. Everything else has been Wyeast (usually 1056). I was looking for a yeast that would really allow the hop flavor and aroma to show through. Which would give me the best chance?

Also, what do you make of my hop schedule? Is there anything you would change or omit?
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
Thanks! I'm still new to the different types of yeast. I've used Safeale 05 on a Brown Ale. Everything else has been Wyeast (usually 1056). I was looking for a yeast that would really allow the hop flavor and aroma to show through. Which would give me the best chance?
Click to expand...
Since you're using a lot of Cascade and Centennial and have only used Wyeast 1056 American Ale I, try Wyeast 1272 American Ale II which will bring out those hops in the flavor more and a different yeast but make a starter
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
Also, what do you make of my hop schedule? Is there anything you would change or omit?
Click to expand...
Well I put your build in brewer's friend recipe builder:

Brew Recipe.jpg
 
MorrisBrewingCo said:
Since you're using a lot of Cascade and Centennial and have only used Wyeast 1056 American Ale I, try Wyeast 1272 American Ale II which will bring out those hops in the flavor more and a different yeast but make a starter
Well I put your build in brewer's friend recipe builder:
Click to expand...


Am I getting a little crazy with the hops? Or am I justifiably crazy?? :tank:

I always over analize things. I need a homebrew! haha
 
With OG at 1.094, FG 1.023 and IBU at 119 I would maybe lower the IBU but really its a recipe and I am making suggestions for an average IIPA. When making recipes you are not necessarily wanting to make something within average but maybe something that hasn't been done before. Below are two more hop schedules the first with a 99 IBU and the second with a 87 IBU. Try any of the three and next go around make adjustments to you are going for.

Hops1.jpg


Hops2.jpg
 
I'm curious as to why you're mashing at 156? Not criticizing, just wondering. You're going to get a less fermentable wort that way. Again, maybe that's what you're going for, but in your first post you didn't want a malty beer. Fermenting lower, say like 150 or 152, will dry the beer out and let those hops shine a bit more. Just my two cents!
 
Also, I love huge hop bomb West Coast style DIPA's. If thats what you're going for, I'd even add a couple oz more at flamout and consider another ounce or two for the dryhop. Again, I'm a sucker for huge hop bombs though.
 
Bramstoker17 said:
I'm curious as to why you're mashing at 156? Not criticizing, just wondering. You're going to get a less fermentable wort that way. Again, maybe that's what you're going for, but in your first post you didn't want a malty beer. Fermenting lower, say like 150 or 152, will dry the beer out and let those hops shine a bit more. Just my two cents!
Click to expand...

Actually, it's good you said something. Like I said, I'm new to All-Grain. So higher temps will give you more malt backbone? Lower mash temps will give you a drier mouthfeel and more hop flavor?

What about the sparge? Also, the amount of water needed for my original grain bill in the mash? Would that be 1.25quarts to pound of grain?

I do enjoy the "two cents" Bramstoker! Thank you for that!
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
Actually, it's good you said something. Like I said, I'm new to All-Grain. So higher temps will give you more malt backbone? Lower mash temps will give you a drier mouthfeel and more hop flavor?

What about the sparge? Also, the amount of water needed for my original grain bill in the mash? Would that be 1.25quarts to pound of grain?

I do enjoy the "two cents" Bramstoker! Thank you for that!
Click to expand...

I reccomend mashing lower, 150 for 75min, dropping carapils to .5lb, and adding 1lb of corn sugar. this will make the beer drier and allow the hops to shine through the big malts.

On the hop side, i would double or tripple the flameout and dry hops. Dont be scared. 4-6 oz flameout with a 30minute hop stand at 180 and a big dry hop of 4oz is not uncommon for IIPAs
 
mewithstewpid said:
I reccomend mashing lower, 150 for 75min, dropping carapils to .5lb, and adding 1lb of corn sugar. this will make the beer drier and allow the hops to shine through the big malts.

On the hop side, i would double or tripple the flameout and dry hops. Dont be scared. 4-6 oz flameout with a 30minute hop stand at 180 and a big dry hop of 4oz is not uncommon for IIPAs
Click to expand...

I was adding that much Carapils to give better head retention. I like Ales with longer head retention (more of an asthetic thing really). I'd rather not add more sugar simply because the predicted ABV is mid 9's and I don't really want it any higher.

As for the hops, I want to add more in the way of hops. Price, however, is a deciding factor in that. I bought 2LBS of hops that need to last me a few brews (at least 4-5). This one already has 9.5oz. It's pretty easy for me to want to just toss em all in though! I dig hops!
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
Actually, it's good you said something. Like I said, I'm new to All-Grain. So higher temps will give you more malt backbone? Lower mash temps will give you a drier mouthfeel and more hop flavor?

What about the sparge? Also, the amount of water needed for my original grain bill in the mash? Would that be 1.25quarts to pound of grain?

I do enjoy the "two cents" Bramstoker! Thank you for that!
Click to expand...

The higher the mash temp, the more unfermentable sugars will be left in the wort, which is good for maltier styles. For a DIPA, those sugars would detract from the beer being more hop focused, so you want to mash lower to make the wort more fermentable.

For the mash I usually do 1.25 qt per pound of grain, then sparge with whatever is left to get to your pre boil volume. I'd mash this beer around 150.
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
I was adding that much Carapils to give better head retention. I like Ales with longer head retention (more of an asthetic thing really). I'd rather not add more sugar simply because the predicted ABV is mid 9's and I don't really want it any higher.

As for the hops, I want to add more in the way of hops. Price, however, is a deciding factor in that. I bought 2LBS of hops that need to last me a few brews (at least 4-5). This one already has 9.5oz. It's pretty easy for me to want to just toss em all in though! I dig hops!
Click to expand...

Understood on the hops. Brewing a DIPA can be damn expensive. If you want to keep the carapils, id reduce the amount. You'll get head retention and body from the other crystal malts too. A pound of carapils is adding more unfermentables than you need imo. I personally like to keep all my crystal/carapills to no more than 5% of the grain bill on IPAs
 
Bramstoker17 said:
Understood on the hops. Brewing a DIPA can be damn expensive. If you want to keep the carapils, id reduce the amount. You'll get head retention and body from the other crystal malts too. A pound of carapils is adding more unfermentables than you need imo. I personally like to keep all my crystal/carapills to no more than 5% of the grain bill on IPAs
Click to expand...

Yeah, I love IPA's in general. But for some reason the IIPA has a certain mystique to it. I enjoy drinking them in the wintertime.

As for the thought on the carapils. I may do that. I think that the amount that I had was about 7% of the grain bill. If I made it 12oz it would drop it about 1%. I may do that. I just want to make sure that I'm not overmalting the beer. Hence the reason that I am using the US-05 yeast.

The unknown is the worst. I'm excited to brew this and see if my recipe works well!
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
So, I'm getting ready to brew my first All-Grain batch of beer. I'm brewing with a buddy that has used that method for a while. I showed him my recipe to get his two cents and I wanted to get some other opinions as well. I created this recipe myself and feel as if it is well put together for my personal tastes. I love big hop flavor, bitterness and aroma. I would much rather have that in an IIPA than a super malty sugary bomb. Anyway, here is the recipe:

Boil: 6.25 gallons

Mash at 156 degrees for 1 hour
Sparge with 162 degree water

Grains

15LBS American 2-row
1LBS Carapils
8oz Crystal 30
8oz Caramel 10

Hop Schedule

1oz Columbus @60
2oz Cascade @15
2oz Centennial @15
1.5oz Columbus @15
1oz Cascade @flameout (Steep 10 minutes)
1oz Centennial @flameout (Steep 10 minutes)

Dry Hop

2oz Cascade
1oz Centennial

Yeast

Trappist High Gravity Yeast or Safale 05 (two packets rehydrated)

Primary 10-12 days
Secondary 5-7 days with dry hop

The OG that I came up with was 1.096
FG should be about 1.023

Any assistance on hop scheduling would be enjoyed. Also, what yeast would you choose and why? Thanks in advance! Cheers!
Click to expand...

First of all, definitely don't use a Trappist yeast unless you want a Belgian IIPA. Trappist yeast will change the flavor A LOT. US-05 is a perfect choice. 2 packs rehydrated. It's the same strain as WLP001 and Wyeast1056.

Second, you need a way lower mash temp as people have said before. I would maybe go down to 148 if you aren't putting any simple sugar in it.

Which leads into my next point: put simple sugar in it. With an OG that high you are going to have a really tough time making the beer as dry as you said you want it. You need to do everything you can to reduce the amount of unfermentables. So to this end you should absolutely drop all of the carapils. The purpose of carapils is to add unfermentables, which you don't want. Add 0.5 pound of wheat malt for head retention. Then add 1 pound of sugar and drop enough of your base malt to bring you to the right OG.

As far as hops go, don't even worry about IBUs. The maximum amount of IBUs that can physically be in your beer is only around 100 which is good for this style. So you could be at 300 IBU on paper but if you tested the beer it would only have around 100 (probably less actually).

If I were you I would move most (actually I would move all) of the 15 minute hops to flameout and then do a hopstand for around 30 minutes after flameout. Also maybe add an ounce or two more for the dry hop.
 
peterj said:
First of all, definitely don't use a Trappist yeast unless you want a Belgian IIPA. Trappist yeast will change the flavor A LOT. US-05 is a perfect choice. 2 packs rehydrated. It's the same strain as WLP001 and Wyeast1056.

Second, you need a way lower mash temp as people have said before. I would maybe go down to 148 if you aren't putting any simple sugar in it.

Which leads into my next point: put simple sugar in it. With an OG that high you are going to have a really tough time making the beer as dry as you said you want it. You need to do everything you can to reduce the amount of unfermentables. So to this end you should absolutely drop all of the carapils. The purpose of carapils is to add unfermentables, which you don't want. Add 0.5 pound of wheat malt for head retention. Then add 1 pound of sugar and drop enough of your base malt to bring you to the right OG.

As far as hops go, don't even worry about IBUs. The maximum amount of IBUs that can physically be in your beer is only around 100 which is good for this style. So you could be at 300 IBU on paper but if you tested the beer it would only have around 100 (probably less actually).

If I were you I would move most (actually I would move all) of the 15 minute hops to flameout and then do a hopstand for around 30 minutes after flameout. Also maybe add an ounce or two more for the dry hop.
Click to expand...

Good point on the Trappist yeast. I actually figured that out after doing some research online. You are correct, I am looking for a drier beer that is more "hop forward" in taste and aroma.

One of the reasons that I have all of the 15 minute additions is twofold. First, I want to be able to add some residual bitterness to go along with the massive "hop bomb" associated with 6.5oz of hops with similar characters added in during the normal flavor/aroma addition. Quite frankly, if I did a hopstand with all of those hops it would do everything but the bittering that I am looking for. Second, I'm just trying to find a simple base IIPA recipe that I can use to create the ultimate IIPA recipe in the future. If the bitterness turns out to be too much I can certainly create a large hop hopstand that would give less bitterness in the long run.

I agree to with the lower mash temperature. I hadn't quite done my research on that either. I do realize now that lower temps=higher dryness and higher temps=big malt backbone and more fermentables.

On a side note, I really wish that I had a ton of Amarillo to use in this recipe. That would give an amazing flavor and aroma to the beer.
 
Actually as long as the wort is over about 180F it is still isomerizing alpha acids in the hops and will be contributing IBUs. So you will still get a pretty substantial IBU contribution from a large flameout addition that you let steep. You will also get a lot of flavor/aroma from the hopstand as well because all of the volatile oils from the hops are not being vigorously boiled off.

And like I said you're pretty much just going to want to max out your IBUs for this beer. This beer style needs a BU:GU ratio of at least 1 if not higher. With an OG of 1.096 it will be almost impossible to make it too bitter. I would shoot for at least 100 IBUs from the 60 minute addition alone. So maybe up the 60 minute addition to 2 oz.

But it is your beer and most of the fun of homebrewing is experimentation! Have fun!
 
peterj said:
Actually as long as the wort is over about 180F it is still isomerizing alpha acids in the hops and will be contributing IBUs. So you will still get a pretty substantial IBU contribution from a large flameout addition that you let steep. You will also get a lot of flavor/aroma from the hopstand as well because all of the volatile oils from the hops are not being vigorously boiled off.

And like I said you're pretty much just going to want to max out your IBUs for this beer. This beer style needs a BU:GU ratio of at least 1 if not higher. With an OG of 1.096 it will be almost impossible to make it too bitter. I would shoot for at least 100 IBUs from the 60 minute addition alone. So maybe up the 60 minute addition to 2 oz.

But it is your beer and most of the fun of homebrewing is experimentation! Have fun!
Click to expand...

Thanks Peterj! I appreciate all the feedback! I'm enjoying learning more about the process. I almost like the brewing and fermentation process more than drinking the beer. Don't get me wrong, the finished product is pretty dang awesome. It's amazing to think of how many unique possibilities there are out there.
 
I would shoot for 150F and mash this for 90 minutes (the lower temp you mash, the longer you should wait for conversion).

1 more thing. Have you thought about First Wort Hopping? Since you seem to be leaning towards a hopburst at the end of the boil, it might add some nice hop flavor "roundness" as some people describe it. I personally find myself always FWH'ing nowadays with all IPA's/IIPA's, and I make a ton of them :)

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.
 
Peterj is giving you very sound advice. If you want this beer drinkable, do what he advised. I've brewed plenty of IIPAs; you want them dry or they turn into pale American Barley Wines.
 
ntempleton said:
Peterj is giving you very sound advice. If you want this beer drinkable, do what he advised. I've brewed plenty of IIPAs; you want them dry or they turn into pale American Barley Wines.
Click to expand...

I've had that happen on my first couple tries at IIPAs. If you don't dry it out they turn out too sweet, but without the richness of a real barley wine. You're then stuck with a mediocre beer that's between two styles. Thankfully they were small batches and I figured out what I did wrong. Replacing some malt with sugar would be a great idea here.

Whatever you end up doing NorthwestBrewman, post the final recipe here and keep us updated with how it goes!
 
Bramstoker17 said:
I've had that happen on my first couple tries at IIPAs. If you don't dry it out they turn out too sweet, but without the richness of a real barley wine. You're then stuck with a mediocre beer that's between two styles. Thankfully they were small batches and I figured out what I did wrong. Replacing some malt with sugar would be a great idea here.

Whatever you end up doing NorthwestBrewman, post the final recipe here and keep us updated with how it goes!
Click to expand...

Fair enough. So, what kind of sugar should I add? Also, should I add just a 0.5LBS of carapils or 0.25LBS? Thank you everyone for all your help!
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
Fair enough. So, what kind of sugar should I add? Also, should I add just a 0.5LBS of carapils or 0.25LBS? Thank you everyone for all your help!
Click to expand...

I'd use corn sugar, the same you prime with. I'd say use about a pound and subtract however much grain to keep your og where you want it. Something to consider if you haven't already, mashing lower will mean a more fermentable wort, which means higher attenuation from the yeast. Your fg will be much lower, so you'll have a higher abv. Just something to consider when finalizing your grainbill.

As for the carapils, I'd personally go with the .25 pound addition. With those and the other crystal malts you'll have plenty of head retention.
 
Bramstoker17 said:
I'd use corn sugar, the same you prime with. I'd say use about a pound and subtract however much grain to keep your og where you want it. Something to consider if you haven't already, mashing lower will mean a more fermentable wort, which means higher attenuation from the yeast. Your fg will be much lower, so you'll have a higher abv. Just something to consider when finalizing your grainbill.

As for the carapils, I'd personally go with the .25 pound addition. With those and the other crystal malts you'll have plenty of head retention.
Click to expand...

So, substituting the pound of Carapils with a pound of Corn Sugar would be ideal? Obviously added at the end of the boil to keep carmelization from happening.

How much does it really affect the ABV? For this one I came up with 9.6%. Would it be above 10% if I was to mash at say...150?
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
So, substituting the pound of Carapils with a pound of Corn Sugar would be ideal? Obviously added at the end of the boil to keep carmelization from happening.

How much does it really affect the ABV? For this one I came up with 9.6%. Would it be above 10% if I was to mash at say...150?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you use a recipe building program. If you can set the yeast attenuation %, I'd set it around 80% using Safale US-05. If you mash low and use sugar, that's a pretty reasonable guess for what your attenuation will likely be. That will give you a more accurate look at what your abv will be.
 
I FINALLY brewed this last night. Tried the wort as it came out of the mash tun (amazing) and tried the final product before placing it into the carboy (intensely amazing).

Here was the final recipe after all was said and done:

15LBS American 2-row
1LBS Crystal 40
0.25LBS Carapils

1LBS Corn Sugar at 20 minutes

1oz Columbus @ 60
1oz Centennial @ 15
1oz Cascade @ 15
1oz Columbus @15
1oz Centennial @ Flameout
1oz Cascade @Flameout
1oz Columbus @ Flameout

2 Safeale US-05 yeasts rehydrated and pitched at 72 degrees.

Gravity was a bit lower than I anticipated. Not sure why. It came out to about 1.058. I'm assuming the sugar that was added to the wort did not get added into that calculation.

Fermentation started after only 5 hours and is bubbling away nicely in a 6gallon glass carboy.

There was a ton of residual hop sediment in the carboy due to the use of pellet hops. It settled to the bottom in the morning leaving a very rich caramel colored beer. The yeild, unfortunately, is not going to be 5gallons. Kind of upsetting, really.

Will be transferring to a secondary vessel after 12 days or so. Dry hop with 2oz Cascade and 1oz Centennial for 7. Then either keg or bottle (haven't figured which yet). More updates to come!
 
1.058? Was that post boil and post sugar addition? That would only be around 40% efficiency. How did your mash go? Did you lose some wort or something? I guess if nothing else you'll have a very hoppy IPA.
 
peterj said:
1.058? Was that post boil and post sugar addition? That would only be around 40% efficiency. How did your mash go? Did you lose some wort or something? I guess if nothing else you'll have a very hoppy IPA.
Click to expand...


This was post boil. I added the sugar in during the boil. I forgot, however, to figure the sugar into the gravity. I added 1 pound and that should have added .009 points to the gravity. Putting it at 1.067.

In a rookie move, no sparging took place. I royally screwed that one up. That is why the efficency was so low. I'm kicking myself for not doing that simple step. I do think though that the flavor is going to be insane and the hoppiness will be on point. The ABV won't be as high though. Maybe 6.5-7.5% depending on fermentation and the Final Gravity.
 
NorthwestBrewman2013 said:
This was post boil. I added the sugar in during the boil. I forgot, however, to figure the sugar into the gravity. I added 1 pound and that should have added .009 points to the gravity. Putting it at 1.067.

In a rookie move, no sparging took place. I royally screwed that one up. That is why the efficency was so low. I'm kicking myself for not doing that simple step. I do think though that the flavor is going to be insane and the hoppiness will be on point. The ABV won't be as high though. Maybe 6.5-7.5% depending on fermentation and the Final Gravity.
Click to expand...

The sugar you added was measured in your gravity reading. You don't add it on, so if you measured 1.058 that's your OG. Some people do no sparge and it works out pretty well. I actually just did a partigyle brew and the big beer was no sparge and the small beer came from my second runnings. How much volume did you collect?
 
peterj said:
The sugar you added was measured in your gravity reading. You don't add it on, so if you measured 1.058 that's your OG. Some people do no sparge and it works out pretty well. I actually just did a partigyle brew and the big beer was no sparge and the small beer came from my second runnings. How much volume did you collect?
Click to expand...

About 5gallons exactly. I'm pretty dissapointed in the lower gravity reading. It was supposed to be 1.093 when I put the recipe into a recipe calculator.

I wanted to do a small beer out of it but I ran out of time. What is a partigyle brew? Never heard that term before.
 
Yeah that is weird that you got that low of an OG. That sucks. But I'm sure it will turn out ok. With all those hops, it couldn't be too bad. I would just read up and try to refine your process for the next batch.

Partigyle is basically when you make 2 different strengthed beers out of one mash. I used my first runnings for a Russian Imperial Stout that ended up having an OG of 1.099 and my second runnings for a small stout with an OG of 1.037. It was pretty fun, but made for a long brew day. Here's an article about it from the homebrewtalk wiki: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Parti-gyle.
 
When you measured your post boil OG, it would have told you that you are significantly overpitching with 2 packets of US-05 if they were 11.5 gram. Even with an OG of 1.093 you would only wanted to use 1.5 packets of US-05. Calculations below.

Let us know how it comes out as there is a lot of discussion on over and underpitching to which only results can speak. What temp are you fermenting at and how did you aerate?

Mrmalty.jpg


Mrmalty2.jpg
 
MorrisBrewingCo said:
When you measured your post boil OG, it would have told you that you are significantly overpitching with 2 packets of US-05 if they were 11.5 gram. Even with an OG of 1.093 you would only wanted to use 1.5 packets of US-05. Calculations below.

Let us know how it comes out as there is a lot of discussion on over and underpitching to which only results can speak. What temp are you fermenting at and how did you aerate?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about overpitching yeast, especially on a IIPA.
 
passedpawn said:
I wouldn't worry about overpitching yeast, especially on a IIPA.
Click to expand...

Well he said it only came out to 1.058 so I wouldn't really call it an IIPA anymore. Just a regular IPA. But I still don't think he'll have any problems. I think you have to massively overpitch with old yeast (like dumping onto a yeast cake) to have noticeable problems especially with a neutral yeast like US-05.
 
passedpawn said:
I wouldn't worry about overpitching yeast, especially on a IIPA.
Click to expand...
I would agree if it was a IIPA with a high OG but it is considered a lower gravity IPA (OG range 1.056-1.070) or a higher gravity pale ale (1.045-1.060). Having an excess of 200 billion yeast cells I consider a substantial over pitch and is not ideal as well as a waste of money.
 

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