Long vs. Short Tri Clamp Ferrule

Hi all,

I'm planning on using this element: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YU2YS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

With this fitting: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html
or: http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html
or: http://www.hillbillystills.com/Heating_Element_plate_p/hecp.htm

1) Does anyone know if I need a short ferrule or can I use a long one?
2) Does the short ferrule get in the way of removing the tri clamp?
3) Will the element hit the side wall of the pot with a short ferrule?
3) Do you have a recommendation for which tri clamp x NPT fitting to use?

Thanks!

I tried to use the Camco 02963 (5500W) ripple element with the Brewer's Hardware 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter and it doesn't fit. It's not an issue with the ferrule but the adapter. I have both a long and short ferrule but before I even get to the ferrule, the ripple element gets stuck.

It seems like it's real close and possibly could work with a little bending of the element but I'll probably go with a straight element.

I'd be curious if anyone has the 2" element adapter and if it works better.

Yes, I did it. Give me a day and I will send you photos.

I did the Camco 5500W element with the Brewershardware & Tri-Clover connection.
Welded on a long ferrule, since the tri-clover had to have room to close (spinning the lock nut).
---- okay, jpalarchino, this is where I made it work ----
Then, I bended the Camco element to fit through the ferrule and also inside the kettle.
It is pretty flexible, so was able to make it work. But, a straight element may be better.

My only concern is the space inside the ferrule, if it will fill with gunk and may be hard to clean out.

*** UPDATED - Photos below ****

Thanks for the pics. Given how much you had to bend that element, it's not too far off from a straight one. I'll probably end up going with a straight one as it looks like removing it would be another bending exercise.

Thanks for the tip on the ferrule and clamp clearance. I bought both and was hoping to use the short; not sure I would have caught that the clamp couldn't be tightened.

Sparky- thanks for posting those pics. Wow, that really doesn't fit. I'm planning on using the tri clamp because I need to remove it every brew day so I can pack the system away for storage. I guess I should be looking at a straight element. It doesn't look like the short ferrule would help the situation. Any recommendations for my situation?

(1) Go with the short ferrule, as long as the tri-clamp locknut can spin without hitting the kettle.
(2) If you can get a 5500 watt STRAIGHT element, that is the way to go.
Then, you should be golden.

I had already purchased the Camco twisty element, next time the straight one!

I used a long ferrule in my kegs. I didnt have to bend the element much at all, maybe 1/8" or so.

sv_1 - are you able to easily remove the element from the kettle? Did you use the 1.5" or the 2"? If you had gone with the short ferrule, do you think you still would have had to bend the element? Did you use the ripple or straight? Thanks

I'd prefer to use the ULWD ripple element, but I dont mind using the fold back if it will work. It sounds like there's really no good solution for a removable ULWD element.?

How hard was it to bend that element? Think it could have bent even more?

NinjaJoe said:

How hard was it to bend that element? Think it could have bent even more?

Click to expand...

It was not too hard to bend it. It should not be bad putting it back to remove it. But, I am finishing my build and will run it through a couple test cycles in the next few weeks.

It is easy to remove, you just have to wiggle it a little. I used a 1.5" and a ripple element.

sv_1 said:

I used a long ferrule in my kegs. I didnt have to bend the element much at all, maybe 1/8" or so.

Click to expand...

What are you using for an element adapter?

Sparky said:

It was not too hard to bend it. It should not be bad putting it back to remove it. But, I am finishing my build and will run it through a couple test cycles in the next few weeks.

Click to expand...

Doh! Didn't even think about having to bend it back to remove it. I think I might try a 2" short ferrule and a folded element.

bikesnbeers said:

Hi all,

I'm planning on using this element: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YU2YS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

With this fitting: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html
or: http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html
or: http://www.hillbillystills.com/Heating_Element_plate_p/hecp.htm

1) Does anyone know if I need a short ferrule or can I use a long one?
2) Does the short ferrule get in the way of removing the tri clamp?
3) Will the element hit the side wall of the pot with a short ferrule?
3) Do you have a recommendation for which tri clamp x NPT fitting to use?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I would suggest a long one. It will make it easier to install the triclamp. Whether it will hit the side of your pot depends on the size of your pot. The element will extend about 10 inches if you use the S-type element and about 8 inches if you use a standard element.
My heating element conversion plates are a 2" cap with 1"NPT threads. With 1" NPT threads any standard hot water heating element will screw into it.

I hope this will help.
HS

Post 88
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/triclamp-heater-element-design-217575/index9.html

Thanks hillbillystills.

Whether it will hit the side of your pot depends on the size of your pot.

Click to expand...

I'm referring to the side of the pot closest to the ferrule.

I'm trying to find an adapter/folded element/ferrule combo that allows me to easily remove the element without bending it. Can you recommend a combination?

If you look at the picture that sv_1 pointed us to, the top folded, ripple element looks like it would hit the kettle wall (or the ferrule) if a long ferrule was attached to the kettle.

sv_1 - does the element fold sit inside the ferrule on your kettle? Sorry, I'm just not seeing it. Nice elements by the way!

sv_1 said:

Post 88
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/triclamp-heater-element-design-217575/index9.html

Click to expand...

Great continuation on the thread, and I really like the Hillbilly Still. For my bent element, the end does not touch the inside of the pot. And, the element coming through the ferrule, does not touch the ferrule or even come close.

My only concern is in the boil kettle, if gunk (ie hops) gets trapped back inside the ferrule during the boil. Seems doubtful, but I have not tested it.

I use a non-rippled Camco element - the 02933. It fits in the 1.5" Brewers Hardware adapter and a standard-length (~1.5" length) tri-clamp ferrule.

bikesnbeers,
I'm a big proponent of using the brewers hardware adapter, a short ferrule, and a folded element (like this). As it's been mentioned, one objective is keep the ferrule as short as possible but still allow enough room to adjust the clamp. I use 15 gallon Boilermakers so the short ferrule left enough room for me while allowing more of the element in the main volume of the kettle. The easiest solution is to just use the folded element. The ripple element won't work unless you bend them, so why bother with the extra effort? I remove my elements after every batch to clean them because hops will collect in the ferrule area. The constant bending will ultimately led to premature failure. Performance wise, there is no notable difference in the ripple element and folded element, they're both 5500W LWD. Here are some pictures of my BK (HLT is the same). I love it and wouldn't change anything.

Thanks SpaceCoast. I'm going a similar route with a 20 gallon Boilermaker. Have all the parts, just trying to get the balls to make the hole.

Is that other connection for whirlpool and does it work for you? I bought the 1/2" whirlpool arm from Bargain Fittings and was curious what the ideal height was for it. Looks like yours runs down to the bottom.

It's tough making that first hole. Just remember to measure twice and cut once.

It was intended for whirlpooling but I haven't really needed to. I use a plate chiller and can typically get it down to temp in one pass. I have it about 3" below the surface of my smallest batch. For me that was 3" lower than the 5 gallon mark. With the larger impeller on the march 809, it can get the wort really moving.

SpaceCoastBrew said:

It's tough making that first hole. Just remember to measure twice and cut once.

It was intended for whirlpooling but I haven't really needed to. I use a plate chiller and can typically get it down to temp in one pass. I have it about 3" below the surface of my smallest batch. For me that was 3" lower than the 5 gallon mark. With the larger impeller on the march 809, it can get the wort really moving.

Click to expand...

Good to know, I have the upgraded impeller too. I generally do 10 gallon batches and use an immersion chiller so I need to see what the volume offset is for that.

Based on your name, I was probably down in your area a couple weeks ago. Spent a week or so in the Cocoa area; managed to pickup some bottles from Cocoa Beach Brewing Co but never got a chance to stop in; decent local beer. Heading back to Orlando in June, hoping to find some good beer then.

Check with welder before going too short with the ferrule, can be difficult to weld. Finding a skilled stainless welder is like finding a good wife.

kevin509 said:

Check with welder before going too short with the ferrule, can be difficult to weld. Finding a skilled stainless welder is like finding a good wife.

Click to expand...

I bought both the long and short from Brewers Hardware; it wasn't going to be worth the shipping to try and figure it out then.

The short ferrule is only about 1/2" total, the long is about 1 1/8". I have a good welder from what I've seen on the forum (obviously a brewer too!) so I figure I'll let him make the decision.

Skilled welder and brewer, that's great. Always best to let them look at what you have and see how you want it done. I learned once that any size hole doesn't make for a good weld up. Was nervous as heck to have my Broilermaker welded but took it to a local company that does nothing but stainless welding for the brewing, beverage and food service industry...worth every penny and I was grinning like a new father when I picked it up.

JP, Cocoa Beach Brewing Company is my closest brew pup. His oatmeal stout and double IPA are my favorites, but they're all solid beers. He just upgraded to a 5 barrel brew house. Cool guy too, you should stop in if you get the chance.

Check out Redlight Redlight in Orlando when you come back in town.

bikesnbeers said:

Thanks hillbillystills.



I'm referring to the side of the pot closest to the ferrule.

I'm trying to find an adapter/folded element/ferrule combo that allows me to easily remove the element without bending it. Can you recommend a combination?

If you look at the picture that sv_1 pointed us to, the top folded, ripple element looks like it would hit the kettle wall (or the ferrule) if a long ferrule was attached to the kettle.

sv_1 - does the element fold sit inside the ferrule on your kettle? Sorry, I'm just not seeing it. Nice elements by the way!

Click to expand...

I would suggest a straight (non rillpled) element. That should work very well and be easy to remove.
HS

Quick vid;

Pic:

I just happened to think of another good reason for the longer ferrule. You need clearance to tighten the clamp screw. Anything less than ~0.5" protruding will be challenging.

Normally, short ferrules would be welded on the end of a piece of pipe.

2" diameter ferrule gives you more room but ripple elements are a challenge. Every element has a hot zone where they heat up but with folded-back elements where the end comes back close to the base it's difficult. I went with straight 5500W element but mainly because I found one with stainless threaded base...no rust. Screwed if it burns out as it was a one-time find on eBay.

It's time water heater element manufactures make a line of elements for brewers...all stainless and designed to fit RIMS tubes and our kettles.

Do you have a manufacturer part number for that element?

I wish, nothing readable on the element. It works great but just praying it never blows till I find another. Would love to find one for my RIMS tube also

sv_1 - Thanks for posting the pic and vid. I thought you were bending the element in the other direction.

Here is an ($$$) option: http://www.brewmagic.com/products/heating-element. I'd like to see an easy way to cover up the wiring connections.

Yeah $185 for an element is too much. I'm looking at some spa elements. Very similar to water heater elements except 1" NPT threads rather than 1" NPS but would still fit in my element boxes for wire protection and grounding. The are stainless and/or brass threads so no rust. There are a few on eBay