RIMS for Dummies

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Re-circ at temperature for 60 mins, then ramp up to 168 for mashout for 15-20 mins. Drain the wort.

Then, add a second batch of sparge water, stir the mash, recirculate for 15 at 168.

Perhaps your problem is that you are doing a single sparge?

That definitely could be the problem because I never thought of adding an additional round of sparge water. Another issue may be my mis-calculating the dead space loss. I had to add an extra 1/2 gallon to my boil to get it to 5.5 gallons (assume half gallon loss in boil to get me to 5 gallon final).

Thanks for the help and I will let you know how my next batch turns out!
 
Sometimes you can see it. The last brew I did to I looked at the mash after I finished sparging, and there was a 1/8" gap in between the mash and the cooler walls. Supposedly it doesn't matter when you batch sparge, but if the flow from the recirculation is constantly channeling, you wont be getting freshman sugars from the middle of the mash. Does that make sense? I've yet to build my rims system yet, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, but just a thought.

That makes perfect sense and I will definitely check the outer edges of my mash next brew. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Thanks to all of the usefull knowledge on this thread, I have completed my RIMS system. Since I live in an apartment and typically brew in friends' backyards, I decided to make my mash system completely mobile. Check out the pics (if I have attached them correctly). I am now working on a sparge tank that will have a disconnect so I can get my efficiency up.

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That PID is HUUUUUGE! But looks like a nice, compact setup. :mug:

Thanks! I wanted plenty of room for wire maintenance so I went with the larger weather box. And yes, the PID face is rather large as I went with the suggested model at the beginning of this thread. Overall, I can't complain.

:mug:
 
Here are a couple pics of the rims in a box I'm building with a buddy. Used a gang box for the switches and U bolts to mount the tube. Still have to finish wiring it up, but its coming together nicely!

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Folks, on page 70 of the thread and love it!!! I thought id pass along a group ive used quite a bit in the past for SS fittings. Sometimes they are quite a bit cheaper than the folks that ive seen referenced on the thread. Thoguh it might be a way to save a few bucks. Dultmeier.com | Car Wash Supplies, Ag Sprayer Parts, Equipment, Pumps

Wow... I have been tabulating a spreadsheet on SS suppliers and this place is probably half price on almost everything I have been seeing elsewhere... :ban:
but... man, their site is SLOW!!!!
 
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Excellent thread! Brewed twice with my rims system! Second brew was 10 gallons of dry stout and I got 85% effeciency. Not quiet expecting that.
 
does anyone have photos of the wiring of the rims tube along with the ssr,pid and temp probe. how people have mounted the components and what Gage wire and type of wire for the wiring
 
does anyone have photos of the wiring of the rims tube along with the ssr,pid and temp probe. how people have mounted the components and what Gage wire and type of wire for the wiring

Take a look in the electric forum. PJ has posted a lot of diagrams for various styles. Everybody does something different so the wiring diagram will vary.
 
just ordered my parts today. still not sure how to wire it up. I don't want to use a toolbox, so what size electrical box do I need. I would like to upgrade to 2 PIDs and an electric timer.
 
I'm new here and just jumped down this rabbit hole. Great thread, but I see a path of constant improvement and upgrades. Where does it end? When you go fully automated electric brewery? And yes I've been lurking at that website too.

Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas and innovation!

Now for a couple of questions.

1. I like the cool looking control boxes, with the big lights and switches. Where do you find these?

2. I have basic electrical knowledge, in that I've wired (successfully) my basement and sub-panel. What additional electrical knowledge should I be reading up on?

Thanks again,

Dan
 
I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?
2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)
3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.
4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)
5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.
 
I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?

The PID controls the heating element. The pump runs for the duration of the mash.

2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)

These are easily cleaned at the end of the mash by recirculating a PBW solution through it. Hot PBW performs better. I run it up to 130*F.

3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.

Compacted grain beds can be controlled by limiting pump throughput and by using rice hulls. Rice hulls keep the mash loose and prevent compaction. The valves do not need to be fully open. I run mine about 35-40% open. If the mash gets stuck and there is no flow through the tube, then the wort will heat up and the temperature probe/PID will not allow the temperature to go over the set point on the PID. It will heat up rather quickly though given the small volume of liquid in the tube. The heater element should be of a extra or ultra low density type - <50 watts / square inch of element surface area. These have not been known to scorch wort.

4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)

I have simply laid the hose on the top of the grain bed and for a 30 lb grain bill I have not had serious channeling. Several folks will sprinkle the wort on to the grain bed with a circular tube that has lots of holes drilled in it. Similar to a mash tun manifold.

5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.

I've seen some folks do this with the toolbox RIMS systems. Search for that and you'll find what you're looking for.

Good Luck!
 
I have a Kal style sparge hose in my tun, it seems like my grainbed is very uneven after recirculation. Perhaps I'm running my pump too fast?
 
Has anyone used the following eBay components? Looks like I can save a lot of coin, but I am always reminded of the age old adage "you get what you pay for"

1. PID - $28 delivered (eBay Link)
2. SSR + Heatsink - $12 delivered (eBay Link)
3. Thermocouple - $10 plus Shipping (eBay Link)
 
You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.
 
klyph said:
You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.

Bummer. Trying to find something to do with these dip tubes lol
 
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