Black Sunhsine - My Keezer Build - Lots of Pics

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Looking beautiful!
I am 1 step closer to my own keezer build.
 
ShakyD said:
I have very limited wood working skills and was wondering what type of saw you used to mitre the 1x8 collar (it is a 1x8 right?)? Also, where did you get the drip tray? I have seen similar ones at Beverage Factory and Keg Connection, but want to see if there is a better solution out there.
Click to expand...

I used a 12" sliding compound miter saw.

The tray is from barproducts.com

PiratesBeardBrewery said:
Could you post those websites, please? I'd like to put some of those on my taps.
Click to expand...

Check out these 2 sites. Great place to start.

http://www.folsoms.net/knots/tejay/index.htm

http://stormdrane.blogspot.com
 
I'm also on board to use this as a starting point (or ideal state haha). I'm not a serious DIY'er but I'll make an exception for this beauty! First post here, but after a year of mini-mashes and bottling I'm going to take the plunge and go all-grain & keg. Thanks electrichead for the inspiration! I have the Kenmore 8.8 ordered and scheduled for delivery next week :mug:
 
Hal9000 said:
Where did you order from? Sears?

I'm in the market. :mug:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I ordered mine off the Sears website. Heads up though, if your local Sears does not have it in stock you have to get it shipped to your house (about $70 shipping charge). I thought they would have an option to get it stocked at the nearest store so I could pick it up at no charge. Oh well... it should be arriving here next week! Got the taps, shanks, and lines from Austin Homebrew Supply today.
 
This is how my keezer turned out.

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Okay so I'm a total beginner when it comes to wiring and wanted to clarify how you did this. It looks like you've got the controller wired to the outlet in the back of the collar, which is then wired to the main power source (ie the plug that goes in the wall?). Do you then plug the freezer into the outlet installed on the collar? Also, did you just use the "plug" end of the extension cord you used to wire the controller to the outlet as the plug for the wall?

Do you do anything with the freezers standard temp control or just leave it on high and let the love controller kick it on when needed?

I'm about to embark on this same project and wanted to make sure I'm clear before ordering parts. Thanks for any input you can give!

Josh
 
pcdc2 said:
Okay so I'm a total beginner when it comes to wiring and wanted to clarify how you did this. It looks like you've got the controller wired to the outlet in the back of the collar, which is then wired to the main power source (ie the plug that goes in the wall?). Do you then plug the freezer into the outlet installed on the collar? Also, did you just use the "plug" end of the extension cord you used to wire the controller to the outlet as the plug for the wall?

Do you do anything with the freezers standard temp control or just leave it on high and let the love controller kick it on when needed?

I'm about to embark on this same project and wanted to make sure I'm clear before ordering parts. Thanks for any input you can give!

Josh
Click to expand...


You might find it easier to use an STC-1000 controller connected to a single duplex outlet with the hot side tab knocked off and the whole thing mounted in a Radio Shack 7x5x3 project box. The STC-1000 can be programmed for heating and cooling so one outlet can be wired for heat and the other for cool. Just plug the freezer into the cooling side and no other wiring is necessary, just need a very small hole to run the temp sensor from the external project box into the cooler unit.
 
I may not have read the thread properly, but did you actually attach the entire drip tray with magnets?

If so, will it actually hold a full pint glass on the tray?
 
pcdc2 said:
Okay so I'm a total beginner when it comes to wiring and wanted to clarify how you did this. It looks like you've got the controller wired to the outlet in the back of the collar, which is then wired to the main power source (ie the plug that goes in the wall?). Do you then plug the freezer into the outlet installed on the collar? Also, did you just use the "plug" end of the extension cord you used to wire the controller to the outlet as the plug for the wall?

Do you do anything with the freezers standard temp control or just leave it on high and let the love controller kick it on when needed?

I'm about to embark on this same project and wanted to make sure I'm clear before ordering parts. Thanks for any input you can give!

Josh
Click to expand...

I re-purposed all possible scraps and materials so the one cord was used for all needed wiring.

Power from house feeds the controller. The controller feeds the outlet on the back of the collar. The outlet feeds the freezer. The motivation behind this was to maintain the ability to bring the entire freezer back to factory condition in the event a warranty claim needed to be made.

The freezer is set to high and the controller's probe is in a container of water.




Southern_Junior said:
I may not have read the thread properly, but did you actually attach the entire drip tray with magnets?

If so, will it actually hold a full pint glass on the tray?
Click to expand...

I used 6 neodymium magnets coated in plasti-dip. It potentially holds 2 pints, and even then it slips long before it pops loose. Although I do not like to live dangerously regarding spilling precious homebrew so it is not used to rest pints while filling.




humann_brewing said:
very nice! the extra hinges are a great idea, Just have to find them for mine now :)
Click to expand...

I ordered mine directly through the Sears parts website.
 
BeerSurfer, that looks great. I'm a bit jealous of your secondary regulator bank. It was not in my original build budget. Nice touch.
 
Electrichead,

Thanks for your post. Your build out looks beautiful. I really like the idea of adding hinges to the collar. I think this would make transferring full kegs easier to manage given the additional height of the collar. I have one question - you list #12 1/2" wood screws for the collar hinge. I know it's been a while but would you confirm this? #12 are fairly thick screws and I don't see them being made smaller than 3/4". #10 can be found 1/2" in length.

Thanks and cheers!

EDIT: The #10 1/2" screws worked great for attaching the hinges to the backside of the collar.
 
Just got my Kenmore 8.8 (in black) last week...going to follow this build closely. Nice job!
 
This thread looks to be somewhat old. I'm really hoping you are still available for a question or two. First and foremost... REally NICE! I have some questions if you wouldn't mind? I don't believe there are any pics depicting what seals the collar to the chest and how that was done? it looks like you went with a foam insulation that is attached to the bottom of the collar and is visible in the finished pictures. Is that right? Please help me understand this piece. My Kenmore 8.8 is on order and will be here soon. My intention is to pretty much mimic your build. Really really nice looking and much inspiration has been gained from reviewing this thread. Thanks very much for your time and efforts in putting it here. Do you find that the additional hinges on the rear of the collar are enough to keep all of the above in place? I was initially thinking of a 2x6 pine collar that would match the outside dimensions of the chest with the nicer perimeter (1x8s?) attached to that collar to sandwich and meld the collar to the chest. Please let me get your thoughts. I like your design better for a couple of reasons. The first being the added insulation attained without intrusion into the interior dimensions of the chest. The second reason being the additional 2" in height that is acquired. And I'll add a third. The ability to lift the entire deal on that added set of hinges is great. My only concern is the seal of the 1x8 sitting on the top of the chest. Any feedback on any or all of these points would be greatly appreciated. -M
 
electrichead said:
The hinges are replacement stock from Sears. The lid can be lifted alone and the collar and lid can be lifted together. The hinges don't even seem to notice the extra weight.
Click to expand...

First, super build! Simply beautiful... :mug:

Wondering why you chose to hinge both the collar and the top verses mounting the collar so it's stationary then hinging the top from the collar?

I could see lifting both and having to keep a hold of the top to keep it from flopping open.

Since you have done the double hinge set-up, has it been useful?

I can't think of what purpose it would serve? Not trying to be critical just trying to figure out if I need to copy you or not... ;)
 
Not OP, but I did the same some double configuration. It's very useful to be able to lift the collar and all when lifting a full keg in so you don't have to lift the 50 pounds that high, and helps for fishing it down through all the lines. But then for just reaching in and adjusting something, swapping a disconnect or just checking to make sure beer isn't leaking out of someplace, it's nice to just be able to open the freezer lid. You don't have to pull it away from the wall nearly as far and it isn't nearly as heavy, etc.

The hinges are pretty strong at holding the lid in the closed position so I don't really have a problem with the top lid flopping open when opening the bottom. Mine also ends up resting against some shelving above it though, so it may be more of an issue if it were a wide open area.
 
bitmask said:
Not OP, but I did the same some double configuration. It's very useful to be able to lift the collar and all when lifting a full keg in so you don't have to lift the 50 pounds that high, and helps for fishing it down through all the lines. But then for just reaching in and adjusting something, swapping a disconnect or just checking to make sure beer isn't leaking out of someplace, it's nice to just be able to open the freezer lid. You don't have to pull it away from the wall nearly as far and it isn't nearly as heavy, etc.

The hinges are pretty strong at holding the lid in the closed position so I don't really have a problem with the top lid flopping open when opening the bottom. Mine also ends up resting against some shelving above it though, so it may be more of an issue if it were a wide open area.
Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense.

My engineering background says; more moving parts, more points of failure. I assume OP offset his taps over to one side in order to help keep lines out of the way when working inside the keezer. Even with that, you think it is still beneficial to have the double hinge set-up?
 
jbb3 said:
Ok, that makes sense.

My engineering background says; more moving parts, more points of failure. I assume OP offset his taps over to one side in order to help keep lines out of the way when working inside the keezer. Even with that, you think it is still beneficial to have the double hinge set-up?
Click to expand...

My collar ended up being either 10 or 12" high, so it has definitely been handy and I'm glad I have the second set. Lifting the kegs up and over isn't insurmountable, but even with the taps offset to one side there's an unruly amount of hose to get twisted and wrapped around everything. Granted, mine is hardly an example of clean hose placement and it could be partially avoided by taking the time to carefully route individual lines.

I'd definitely suggest not permanently fixing a large collar to the base though. There will be inevitable spills that require a good cleaning of the inside periodically, and trying to reach the bottom over the collar would be quite difficult without climbing in the thing entirely. I've sponged a couple gallons of beer that leaked out before, which sucks enough as-is.

However, having said that, when I ordered my hinges I ended up getting them both for around $20 total. When a friend was doing the same last year it cost him more like $45/EACH which would make me question the importance of using OEM replacement ones, at least. The stock hinges are truly beasts, which don't notice the weight of a collar at all. But it sure seems like you could use a cheaper home improvement store hinge for the top part of the lid (it's not that heavy). It may require clasps to hold it down when opening the bottom, but if I were trying to save money I'd keep the originals for the collar to base, and try for a cheaper solution for the top.
 
bitmask said:
My collar ended up being either 10 or 12" high, so it has definitely been handy and I'm glad I have the second set.
Click to expand...

Now that's a collar! That alone would justify the double hinges. It would require an extra grunt and maybe some tippy toes without it. I was thinking 6 or 8 inches. 10 or 12 is another story...


I'd definitely suggest not permanently fixing a large collar to the base though. There will be inevitable spills that require a good cleaning of the inside periodically, and trying to reach the bottom over the collar would be quite difficult without climbing in the thing entirely. I've sponged a couple gallons of beer that leaked out before, which sucks enough as-is.
Click to expand...

Makes sense. Taking note...


However, having said that, when I ordered my hinges I ended up getting them both for around $20 total. When a friend was doing the same last year it cost him more like $45/EACH which would make me question the importance of using OEM replacement ones, at least. The stock hinges are truly beasts, which don't notice the weight of a collar at all. But it sure seems like you could use a cheaper home improvement store hinge for the top part of the lid (it's not that heavy). It may require clasps to hold it down when opening the bottom, but if I were trying to save money I'd keep the originals for the collar to base, and try for a cheaper solution for the top.
Click to expand...

More notes...

Thanks bitmask! Very helpful

:mug:
 
I am doing essentially the same Keezer build and am left wondering about the light and high temp alarm? I'm thinking that the wire from the lid is left dangling and are no longer functional? Has anyone else noticed this? Does anyone else have any suggestions to resolve this as an issue? It looks like the original author of this thread is no longer active. Any suggestions for keeping the lid light and overtemp alarm functional would be appreciated.
-M
 
Cut the wire in the middle and extend it enough to accommodate the lid elevation change.

No big deal, neither alarm circuit nor the interior light draw significant current (probably down in the tenths of an amp for each)...

Cheers!
 
Thanks Daytrippr. That is exactly what I did using crimp terminals and a healthy amount of electrical tape. I am also going with Solid state relays just to be safe and wiring directly to the compressor from the controller. I'll have a 110V available to me on the back of the collar as well and the light and high temp alarm will always be hot.
 
As an added measure of insurance I am rewiring the AC from the wall with 14gauge and power to the controller will be with 14gauge as well. 16 gauge wire from the controller to the SSR.
 
Most seem to do well with 10-12ft. Unless you use flow control taps then length doesn't matter so much.
 
I saved the link for you Black Subshine build for when I was ready to build my own. And now that I am ready to, I went into the page to look at your pictures to "follow along with", and they all disappeared. What happened? Is there a way you can send them to me?

Thanks!!
 

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