Diagram help

I've got an idea from looking at some of P-J's diagrams. Here's my plan:

1 auberins PID with output going to a DPDT switch. The switch selects between 2 40a SSRs. One SSR runs the 120v 1500w element on my RIMS tube, the other runs dual 120v 2000w elements on my boil kettle. I would also put in a SPST switch for my pump.

I'll have a total of 3 120v GFCI circuits in my shop (only because I already have the wire and GFCI for 120v).

I would, of course, have an RTD in my RIMS tube. But would I also need to add one to my boil kettle to use the manual mode on the PID?

Would a setup like this work or am I stuck having to buy 2 PIDs? I would put up a pic of what I'm thinking about but I'm not on my PC atm.

After thinking more about it, I guess I would need at minimum a 3rd SSR and possibly a second PID. It's starting to add up, lol. I might just use a PID/SSR to control my RIMS and manually control my boil kettle. I just really don't want to have to run 240v to my shop/garage.

I'm trying to figure this wiring stuff out myself so take my advice with a grain of salt.

I don't think you need more than one pid. You also don't have to have a temp sensor in the boil kettle. You simply need one to be hooked up somewhere (and it will be - in the rims tube). You then run the pid in manual mode to power the element in the kettle.

That said, having a sensor in the kettle is nice because it will help you anticipate the boil and track progress during chilling. That's what I plan to do anyhow.

There is a great diagram by P-J that I'm following that should also work for you. Do a search for "simple eherms diagram" and you should find it.

As for SSRs I'm not sure you need more than two. You might be able to get by with a dpdt switch to switch between the elements. Three SSRs would work too.. But would be more expensive.

Lastly, it's probably not the best idea to be drawing current from multiple sources. More wires to trip over and more stuff to unplug or switch off in the event of a SHTF moment. I'm 240v single outlet and wiring doesn't look to be too bad but I do have the breaker box located mere feet from my rig. I would at least consider putting in a single 120v gfci outlet on a breaker that will handle your amp requirements.

Again, caveat emptor. What I know I've read or been told by the experts like Walker, PassedPawn, P-J etc. hopefully one of those guys can chime in with more useful advice.

Edited: forgot you have 2 elements in the boil kettle, that changes things. Still though, two SSRs should work since you'll only be running two elements at a time. Then you switch off one SSR and switch the current from the other one to the rims tube. I think...

I would prefer a simpler 240v system, but as it is right now I've already got the dual 120v GFCIs run on separate breakers. I've got the parts now to run the RIMS from a PID, but plan on running the dual 120v elements in the boil kettle manually via switches until I can afford to run a 240v line and buy the extra PID/SSR etc. Hell, I might just wait on converting my boil kettle till I can get the single 240v setup going. As it stands I'm in about $540 counting my new pump and plate chiller and the SWMBO wanted me to cap it at $500