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Werewolf6851

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Greetings all,

Starting small for my first attempt at making mead. Ie using glass gallon apple juice jars.

Reading recipies leads me to believe it's usually 3 pounds of honey to gallon of water.
Is it more case 3 pounds of honey to amount water to fill 1 gallon of volume (about 3 quarts water)? Or is it exactly 1 gallon of water and 3 pounds honey for about 5 quarts of volume?

Secondly hate to throw away useful stuff, and was wondering there are uses for the sediment from first fermintation and lees from following fermintations?

Wolf

Edited to give more info.
This will be my first brewing experiance. I do miss enjoying a good honey mead!
 
Yes - you can re-use the yeast that's going to fall to the bottom. Some say it gets better each time, though personally I doubt that.

I'll ignore the part where you mentioned barbarian units of measurements. Just kidding, though personally I don't really weigh the honey or measure up water anymore. I just mix until I hit my target OG and desired volume, takes some notes of it so I won't forget.

Edit: would be good of you to mention your brewing experience - we could give you more appropriate advice for your first batch.
 
Its 3lb of honey per gallon of must, you you wont add a full gallon of water, though as mentioned its worth getting a hydrometer as its really the OG you are aiming for and its always good to know where you start and finish as well as when you finish as its not really possible to tell for sure without one!
 
I would not re-use the lees for fermentation. This isn't beer...we already stress the hell of our yeast in a mead since honey is void of vitamins and nutrients (esp. nitrogen).

Making alcohol is a process of loss. You ALWAYS lose liquid, so if its bothering you to toss the yeast cake...might not be the best hobby for ya ;)
 
I dump the sediment from both beer and wine over my compost pile. It's an excellent source of nutrients which I wouldn't just dump down the drain or in the trash. Also the yeast help break down some of my kitchen waste. I've always thought about saving a bit and reusing the yeast for future brews. Sort of like friendship dough, I may do this if I ever find myself brewing back to back batches but generally I just buy a new packet or vial of yeast.
 
Meh. Depending on how fermentation went I would either save the entire lees, or at least a small portion (for later use to make a starter). I don't see much use in throwing perfectly good yeast away and then buying more packets of the same thing at the LHBS.
 
Well dont forget about the possibility of mutations. The lees, especially after a couple of reuses, may not be the yeast you started out with. It could be better mutation, or it could be worst, but probably wont be the D47, 1116,, wyeast, whatever... that you started off with.
But I guess if you really wanted to "re-use" the lees then I guess you could always boil them and used it a yeast nutrient.
 
Well dont forget about the possibility of mutations. The lees, especially after a couple of reuses, may not be the yeast you started out with. It could be better mutation, or it could be worst, but probably wont be the D47, 1116,, wyeast, whatever... that you started off with.
But I guess if you really wanted to "re-use" the lees then I guess you could always boil them and used it a yeast nutrient.

This. Yeast mutates...yeast adapts...yeast changes...and since its alive it does get 'too old'.

For the $1 a packet it costs, its not worth the expense to harvest and bank yeast that isn't necessarily at its peak. Maybe you're a microbiologist with a microscope who can check yeast health.
I am not...so I spend the $1.
 
Two things:

a) Although I've heard people say 'mutation' a lot, I've never heard any hard evidence of negative consequences from mutation. I'm sure it happens, but I'm not concerned if it doesn't result in real, detectable consequences.

b) Even if mutation happens, I'm OK with it. If the yeast want to adapt to my particular fermentation technique or local environment, go for it. It will make my brews unique and personalized. I can always discard the yeast and start over if I dislike how the yeast starts behaving.
 
Two things:

a) Although I've heard people say 'mutation' a lot, I've never heard any hard evidence of negative consequences from mutation. I'm sure it happens, but I'm not concerned if it doesn't result in real, detectable consequences.

b) Even if mutation happens, I'm OK with it. If the yeast want to adapt to my particular fermentation technique or local environment, go for it. It will make my brews unique and personalized. I can always discard the yeast and start over if I dislike how the yeast starts behaving.

It's not mutation so much as selective pressure that's at stake here. The yeast aren't adapting, but rather we're selectively propagating them into figure generations. The way this shapes the genetic profile of the colony isn't always desirably.

If you've never seen it, you simply haven't been looking for it. Flocculation characteristics will change within two or three generations if your harvesting techniques aren't sound. That's a well documented phenomenon.
 
First things... You make mead and brew beer.

Now then, I think the honey and water mix has been addressed already. So not going to go over that again. The sediments you get on the bottom of a fermenter, from the yeast, is not really all that good for using in another batch. MAYBE, if your first batch was a log OG, it fermented to dry, and the yeast has plenty of vitality left (you hit 7% on yeast rated to 14%) you could use it again. But I don't know of anyone making mead that wimpy. :eek: Most of us select a yeast, or formulate the must, to maximize the yeast used. So, formulate it to hit 14%, finish a little north of 1.000, and used D47 yeast (for example).

Do yourself a big favor, get yeast nutrients made for making wines. Such as Fermax, Fermaid-k, DAP and also yeast energizer. Fermax and yeast energizer have a per gallon dosage on the containers. I would advise using that for your first batch. Give it all while mixing up the must and then add the yeast (properly rehydrated).

It's important to remember mead takes TIME to become something great. Where you can go grain to glass, with beer, in a matter of weeks mead will take significantly longer. Several months if not over a year (depends on how strong you're making it). You'll also rack the mead at least a few times during the process, but don't do this too often. Wait until it's completely finished fermenting before you rack the first time. Then give it 1-3 months, and allow it to clear, before racking again. I've racked a couple of more times on top of that, depending on the batch and how it looked.

If your mead ferments to dry, read up about back sweetening. Just keep in mind that you want to aim for less than what you're sweetness target is in this case. Where it might taste perfect once you're back sweetened and then bottle (either stabilize, or give it enough time to ensure fermentation doesn't pick up again) it very well could come out tasting too sweet a year (or several) later. To the point where you don't want to drink what you have left.

For your first mead batch, I would go with a traditional formula. Basically honey with a strong flavor to it (that you love), water, nutrients, and yeast. I (and many other mazers) use Lalvin yeast strains for our meads. I would select one of those that appeals to you, or you can keep it in the temperature range listed while fermenting. At your initial formulation, you should be able to get to 14%, so D47 would be a solid choice. I wouldn't suggest using 71B for a first batch since it is a more needy yeast, and needs some different treatments.

I would also suggest going over to the Got Mead forums and checking out the information there...

Above all else, do NOT heat the honey/must above 100-110F while you're making it. If you do, you'll start to lose the more delicate flavors and aromas that are present in the honey. Since you're going to spend decent money on the honey, don't do that.
 
Two things:

a) Although I've heard people say 'mutation' a lot, I've never heard any hard evidence of negative consequences from mutation. I'm sure it happens, but I'm not concerned if it doesn't result in real, detectable consequences.

b) Even if mutation happens, I'm OK with it. If the yeast want to adapt to my particular fermentation technique or local environment, go for it. It will make my brews unique and personalized. I can always discard the yeast and start over if I dislike how the yeast starts behaving.

At $.75 per packet for the yeast, reusing is (IMO) rather foolish. With possible genetic drifting, in a non-good direction due to the stresses the yeast are put under, it seems unwise to me. Especially with how cheap yeast is, but how expensive honey is. Not to mention how much TIME you'll have invested in a batch of mead before it goes to bottle or glass...
 
I hate to get in the way of pedantry, but "brewing mead" is a common turn of phrase:
http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Mead-Step-Step-Instructions/dp/0937381004

One single reference from 1998... Yeah, that's gospel... :cross: :drunk:
Next you'll say you brew wine too... :fro:

I also like one of the more recent reviews (2006) on that book...

The first 90% of this book is written by Lt. Colonel Robert Gayre. This part of the book is dedicated to the history of mead and related alcoholic drinks. Naked racism, extreme conservatism, snobbism, awkward language style, low readability and long, boring historic reviews are characteristic for this part of the book. The Lt. Colonel speaks of great English civilization, wonderful Aryan race and superior Anglo-Saxon race, trying to bring enlightenment to the primitive and degenerate other human races. In this part there is not even a trace of any knowledge about mead making necessary for those who would like to do it.

The last 10% of the book - Brewing Mead - is written by Charlie Papazian. This part is too short and too general to make a useful contribution to a beginner. The recipes are not precise and not detailed enough for a real success.

If you are a historian interested in racist theories centered on the English and the Aryan myths, this may be the book for you.


How about something with a bit more weight behind it... Such as The Compleat Meadmaker
 
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Google "make mead" in quotes and you get 56,400 hits.
Google "brew mead" in quotes and you get 45,600 hits.

Which just shows that enough people are typing the wrong thing...

Stick a fork in it, it's done, and I'm out of this thread... Call it what you like, but you still MAKE mead, you brew beer. :p
 
Awesome threadjacking guys seriously. Back on topic, reusing lees from a batch of mead. This usually isn't common practice because the high levels of alcohol that are generally produced in a mead are very hard and stressful on the yeast that you use. Reusing yeast is much more common in beer brewing because the relatively low levels of alcohol that are produced.
 
Guess What I really wanted to know, Is there seconday purpose to use the lees/yeast. Ie not so much for next batch of mead, but as an ingrediant in a home made bread, etc?

Wolf.
 
Guess What I really wanted to know, Is there seconday purpose to use the lees/yeast. Ie not so much for next batch of mead, but as an ingrediant in a home made bread, etc?

Wolf.


While i'm sure you can make bread w/ the "spent" wine yeast...bread yeast is bread yeast, and wine yeast is wine yeast as in different strains that work best for specific tasks...of course YMMV.

Some people use the same yeast for years, and others use a fresh pack each time...personal preference really.
 
Guess What I really wanted to know, Is there seconday purpose to use the lees/yeast. Ie not so much for next batch of mead, but as an ingrediant in a home made bread, etc?

Wolf.

It's frequently used as animal feed, as there's quite a bit of nutritional value in yeast, particularly proteins and B-vitamins. If you like the taste yourself, you can dry the stuff out and use it as an ingredient in sauces, etc.

You could certainly try using it as an ingredient in bread, though I wouldn't try to use it to actually leaven it...bread yeast and wine yeast have been pushed in very different directions over the years and most people who try to use wine yeast to make bread find it too slow acting.

Someone else mentioned compost, and that's a very easy and effective route.
 
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