janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to wire up the temp controller I purchased off ebay but no dice. Can't seem to sort out the wiring on this old fridge. If anyone could help I am in desperate need. Heres a few pictures to try and help out.
Need wiring help
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Do you have a schematic of the fridge wiring? Usually there is a schematic on the back of the fridge.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately no. Was the first thing I looked for and couldnt find it. It's a Whirlpool Custom Series from as far as I can tell 1989.
I am not going to be much help without a wiring schematic for the fridge. If you can find the model number you might be able to find schematic on appliance makers website or on the web. I had to do that on one of my fridges that i installed Love controller on.
TheCircuitBox
Member
Looks like model # ET14JKXSW03
This site is where manuals and warranties are found, so maybe there is something that can help. If that is not the model or you can not find the model #, just use the closest one to it.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/pro...chTerm=et14jk&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer
This site is where manuals and warranties are found, so maybe there is something that can help. If that is not the model or you can not find the model #, just use the closest one to it.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/pro...chTerm=et14jk&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer
I wonder if you over thought this one? If you wired up a 120V receptacle then you could simply plug the refrigerator into that, set the refrigerator for the lowest temp, then let the thermostat turn it off and on. Wouldn't that have been easier? Of course, the light only works when the compressor is running.
+1 there. that would make things a LOT simpler.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
Definately the case.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
The model number is actually ET14JKXSN03, but looking through this it is identical to mine. I tried looking up a wiring diagram but it just took me to sites that sold them but you couldn't order one. Anyone have any advice?
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I've worked on those whirlpool fridges for years, and have plenty at my work to check out the wiring for you. I can't recall off the top of my head the wiring by color, but will take a look tomorrow and post back.
I can tell you right off that the plug dangling in the freezer is for an icemaker, and not relevant here.
I can tell you right off that the plug dangling in the freezer is for an icemaker, and not relevant here.
weathejx
Well-Known Member
warning: i am not an electrician nor do i pretend to be one.
you can do what these guys suggested and get a socket, wire it and plug your fridge into it. thats what i did, mainly because i dont want to cut up my freezer plug in case i want to sell/use it later.
that said, get a multimeter and test the continuity of wires from the plug that goes from the fridge into the wall, and figure out which prong on the plug goes to which wire in the fridge. my guess is, from the last picture, that the 3 molex connector with the green (ground usually), white and brown is what you're looking for. then use the instructions that came with the aqua temp controller (i have the same one) to wire it. essentially you're going to be running the hot wire through the controller and the controller will act as a switch to turn the fridge on and off.
if none of that made sense, please get someone to help you. messing about with electricity is dangerous. and not only that you dont want to fry your temp controller or your fridge.
if you still want to try it, use this thread (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/) and google to get some more info.
good luck.
you can do what these guys suggested and get a socket, wire it and plug your fridge into it. thats what i did, mainly because i dont want to cut up my freezer plug in case i want to sell/use it later.
that said, get a multimeter and test the continuity of wires from the plug that goes from the fridge into the wall, and figure out which prong on the plug goes to which wire in the fridge. my guess is, from the last picture, that the 3 molex connector with the green (ground usually), white and brown is what you're looking for. then use the instructions that came with the aqua temp controller (i have the same one) to wire it. essentially you're going to be running the hot wire through the controller and the controller will act as a switch to turn the fridge on and off.
if none of that made sense, please get someone to help you. messing about with electricity is dangerous. and not only that you dont want to fry your temp controller or your fridge.
if you still want to try it, use this thread (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/) and google to get some more info.
good luck.
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Okay, I found the schematic online for that fridge. It's used in a LOT of models. Inside your fridge, and with it UNPLUGGED, tie red to black. Cap all of the others. You won't be needing them since it looks like the defrost timer has been cut out by someone (it would be mounted inside the fridge up top). The fridge should now power on when plugged in.
Here's the schematic. It takes a couple minutes to load because it's got schematics for a bunch of appliances. You'll need to scroll down to page 11-1 for your schematic. It doesn't say your exact model, but this is the same design/wiring they used on a ton of fridges.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/50f816f965983b38852574a5004bde8a/$FILE/8178743.pdf
If that gets it running, then you can just wire those two wires (the red and black) into your controller on terminals 7-8 for cooling and run the probe into the fridge.
And of course you'll need to wire power to the temp controller as well.
Here's the schematic. It takes a couple minutes to load because it's got schematics for a bunch of appliances. You'll need to scroll down to page 11-1 for your schematic. It doesn't say your exact model, but this is the same design/wiring they used on a ton of fridges.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/50f816f965983b38852574a5004bde8a/$FILE/8178743.pdf
If that gets it running, then you can just wire those two wires (the red and black) into your controller on terminals 7-8 for cooling and run the probe into the fridge.
And of course you'll need to wire power to the temp controller as well.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
So plug them both into 7 & 8 or does one go to 7 and the other to 8?
Tie one to 7 and one to 8. When the controller wants to kick on the cooling, it will complete the connection between the red and black wires and your fridge will start running.
TheCircuitBox
Member
No it will not unless we missed something.
So we have no use for pink brown white?
1 red
2 green
7 red
8 black
Does that sound about right?
Um....Is this comment not ringing alarm bells with anyone else?
Make sure you know what you are doing and are confindent you have done it right, this forum can offer you advice on how to wire the controller but unless you fully understand the advice it is very dangerous to be wiring this up yourself. If you are not 100% sure you have done it right at the very least have someone that has some knowledge in electrical wiring check your work.
Just looking out for you.
TheCircuitBox
Member
I do not see a reason for alarm. He is just making sure he understands correctly.
BTW Red and black tied together make it run non stop with no PID.
BTW Red and black tied together make it run non stop with no PID.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
Building an ebay temp controller and taking care of it. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I have no idea what all of those other wires are for, but the temp controller, once wired in, will not need anything other than a power source (which powers just the controller and nothing else) and two wires to connect together to kick on the compressor.
The previous poster said that connecting red to black caused the fridge to come on, so that would be the two wires you want the controller to be connecting and disconnecting, which is why I said to connect one pin 7 and one to pin 8.
Maybe I misunderstood something?
Agreed. I'm offering advice, but it's worth exactly what you pay for it. I wouldn't connect anything to anything unless I *fully* understood the schematics and what I was doing. I probably should have stayed out of this thread.
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There will be no need for the other wires if there is not a defrost timer. The other wires power the timer, which cuts power to the compressor/fan motor when in defrost mode, and give power to the defrost burner. None of this will be necessary if the freezer is never kept at freezing temps, which it won't be if the fridge is kept in the 60-70° range.
And yes, tying the red & black together will cause it to run non-stop. That was meant to be a test to see if the fridge came on before wiring it to the temp controller.
Black is the hot, not red, and green is the ground, not your neutral. White is your neutral. So:
1 - Black
2- White
7- Black (a jumper wire from #1)
8- Red
And yes, tying the red & black together will cause it to run non-stop. That was meant to be a test to see if the fridge came on before wiring it to the temp controller.
Black is the hot, not red, and green is the ground, not your neutral. White is your neutral. So:
1 - Black
2- White
7- Black (a jumper wire from #1)
8- Red
TheCircuitBox
Member
Yeah, at first I assumed black red white green was needed. Good to know i was partially wrong. I did the Red/Black test. Works, and it does get cool after a few minutes.
Nope the PID cuts on, but no dice for the fan and compressor.
Maybe;
1 black
2 red
7 black
8 white?
If we cant figure this out we are going to build the external.
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Then the PID is not closing the connection.
If you tie the red & black together and the fridge comes on
- AND -
You wire the black to 1 & the white to 2, and the PID comes on
- THEN -
The PID is not closing the connection between 7 & 8.
Are you sure you have the PID set to cool? Do you have a voltmeter? Can you post a pic of the contoller how you have it wired?
If you tie the red & black together and the fridge comes on
- AND -
You wire the black to 1 & the white to 2, and the PID comes on
- THEN -
The PID is not closing the connection between 7 & 8.
Are you sure you have the PID set to cool? Do you have a voltmeter? Can you post a pic of the contoller how you have it wired?
TheCircuitBox
Member
No voltmeter. Yes the PID is set to cool, it is done automatically. The default temp is 10c and the temp where the fridge is 28.6c. So it blinks cool for the compressor delay and goes solid when it kicks on. But like i mentioned it does not kick on. I will wire it back up and plug it in after a few minutes.
the pictures are uploading from my phone so it will be a few minutes.
the pictures are uploading from my phone so it will be a few minutes.
TheCircuitBox
Member
Here they are, I know double posting is wrong but it seem beter than editing the old post.
Just to check, as I don't see any mention of it, you have wired the prob that came with the controller in between 3 & 4?
Also what is the need for having it hard wired to the fridge? It would be easier for you to put the fridge back together and have the controller wire in the supply lead to the fridge. What you will have is basically a power lead, strip the cover off a section in the middle. Leave the earth alone, cut the nuetral and hot, both hot ends into 1, nuetral from wall into 2, jumper wire (same gauge as lead) between 2 & 7, Nuetral from fridge into 8. I don't know how big the connectors on the unit are but best practice is to use terminal blocks when you need to connect 2 wires to one point. From what I have read on the seller's ebay listings there should be a peice of paper in the box explaining this with a diagram.
Also what is the need for having it hard wired to the fridge? It would be easier for you to put the fridge back together and have the controller wire in the supply lead to the fridge. What you will have is basically a power lead, strip the cover off a section in the middle. Leave the earth alone, cut the nuetral and hot, both hot ends into 1, nuetral from wall into 2, jumper wire (same gauge as lead) between 2 & 7, Nuetral from fridge into 8. I don't know how big the connectors on the unit are but best practice is to use terminal blocks when you need to connect 2 wires to one point. From what I have read on the seller's ebay listings there should be a peice of paper in the box explaining this with a diagram.
Don't worry about what you did there, I think what is frowned apon is posting the same thread in 2 different sub-forums
Haha... just realise that I just did the same thing
TheCircuitBox
Member
1. Two black wires
2. White
3/4. Temp probe
5/6. Heating [Not used]
7. Black from 1
8. Red
Here are the instructions.
2. White
3/4. Temp probe
5/6. Heating [Not used]
7. Black from 1
8. Red
Here are the instructions.
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You have it wired correctly, so the PID is not working.
If you tie black to red, and the fridge comes on, then it's the PID not doing it's job. That is all the PID does: close a switch between 7 & 8, black to red.
If the PID is on, and in cooling mode, and showing a reading from the sensor that is warmer than it's setting, then it's not working.
Also, If you hooked up white & black to 7 & 8 before, or green & black, it's possible it fried the relay in the PID.
If you tie black to red, and the fridge comes on, then it's the PID not doing it's job. That is all the PID does: close a switch between 7 & 8, black to red.
If the PID is on, and in cooling mode, and showing a reading from the sensor that is warmer than it's setting, then it's not working.
Also, If you hooked up white & black to 7 & 8 before, or green & black, it's possible it fried the relay in the PID.
Looking at the "generic" wiring diagrams in this post, I would say what you really would want to do is switch the orange and either black or red depending on which is the actual diagram.
This will basically be removing the fridges thermstat from the circuit and raplcing that with the relay in you controller. What you need to do is locate the thermostat, there should be 3 wires coming out of it which should hopefully be:
yellow/green = ground -> leave this alone
The other 2 (hopefully orange and black or red to match up with the diagram) -> remove from thermostat and wire one to 7 and one to 8.
So that will make it:
1 = hot (bk)
2 = nuetral (wh)
3 = temp prob
4 = temp prob
7 = wire removed from thermostat (or?)
8 = other wire removed from thermostat (bk? or rd?)
I think I might guess what has happened. The wires you have going to your controller 1 & 2, are they splice so the run in parellel with the wires going to power the fridge or have you removed them from going to the fridge and pluged them straight into the controller?
If they run in parellel that is correct, if the go from the molex connector to your controller and nothing else you have disconnected the power to your fridge.
Also please tell me you have not disconnected any green/yellow wires? These are your grounds and are there to save your life (maybe), DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY GREEN/YELLOW WIRES!
Sorry if that was a bit *****y but I don't want anything to happen to you and keeping you fridge grounded is one thing we need to ensure.
TheCircuitBox
Member
Ha, I did that combination days ago and it just flipped the breaker when I tried. Never mix black and white it is very dangerous. Looks like I will have to buy another PID. Let this be a lesson to others.
What PID would you suggest or should I just make an external one?
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
Johnson or Ranco. ChiCompany puts out a budget version but still hasn't recieved the new units. Even a Love.
Yeah, that was a bad move. You created a short circuit between hot and neutral. The breaker tripped when the current exceeded 15A or 20A, but the little relay inside the temp controller (it's not really an actual PID is it?) probably died before the breaker tripped.
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janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
Ebay temp controller.
Ummmm, yeah.... that what this thing actually is.
It's the STC-1000. The exact same device talked about in the ebay temp controller thread on here.
well.. the one on ebay doesn't actually say "stc-1000" on it, but it is the exact same device.
Even the sticker on it is identical (except for the "STC-1000" in the upper corner).
Even the sticker on it is identical (except for the "STC-1000" in the upper corner).
TheCircuitBox
Member
Not to be a knit-picker, but this is a simple thermostat. A PID is a bit more sophisticated.
It doesn't really matter for the most part, but there is a substantial difference.
TheCircuitBox
Member
Anycase I still need to find a new one, prefer one that is not in Hong Kong.
mmm
Love TSX3-520122 sexy.
mmm
Love TSX3-520122 sexy.
I don't think there is any thing wrong with the "ebay" temp controllers from Hong Kong, many people on here have use them and are happy with them as they do the job the need to do without the price tag. Just be sure you understand what you are doing when you get your love, otherwise it could be heading in the same direction as the stc-1000
Good luck.
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