Digital Temperature control for Keezer

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smittygouv30

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I know there are all kinds of threads on this which might be why it's so confusing for me. I'm looking for a digital temperature control to mount on the front of my keezer. I don't need it to have dual controls as I'll only use it for controlling the cooling of my keezer. Since it'll be on the front I would really like it to read in Fahrenheit. I found this one on eBay which is a a good price however I have no idea if it will work or not. What do I need to look for to make it work for my keezer? How many amps? Is a certain brand better than another? Etc?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200765319818&index=4&nav=SEARCH&nid=02207948898

Sorry for being such a noob. If it wasn't for resources such as HBT I would never even attempt to try something like a keezer.
 
The item you referenced is an "AC 220~240V Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat F". Note the operating voltage, probably not what you really want if you're in the USA.

If you go back to eBay and search for "STC-1000" you'll find a controller that is available for 110VAC service that is pretty popular here...

Cheers!
 
The link you posted is for a 240 volt controller. You need one for 120V, be sure to read the fine print. You need to know the current draw of the freezer, the relay in the controller may not be large enough to handle it but it depends. Worst case, you'd have to add an external relay and have the controller turn it on & off. Otherwise you're on the right track.
 
As the others have said, make sure you get the 110v version. The 110v version of the one you posted is the exact one I used for my freezer. The eBay listing states it's a 5A relay, but the paperwork with the controller indicates it's 10A. I'm using it on a 7-8cf freezer with no issues (it's been running for a couple weeks now, working great!).

Here's a link to one from the seller I purchased from - Link
 
search for "STC-1000" you'll find a controller that is available for 110VAC service that is pretty popular here...

Cheers!
The STC1000 reads in Celsius. I've had mine for over 6 months and I've gotten very tired of converting all the time. Fahrenheit just makes more sense to my American mind. I initially installed a heater in my fermentation chamber but have yet to need it. I plan to convert over to a single stage controller soon.

Just ordered a pair of these 110vac, single stage, fahrenheit controllers:

Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Aquarium F
 
here's a pic of the controller's Fahrenheit readout. I couldn't attach it to the PM we had going.

temp controller.jpg
 
I've got the 220v celcius version of this controller. I'm running 120v through it and it powers up fine, but I think my freezers draw amperage during startup is too much for the switching circuit. I'm trying to find a relay that will work but something this size is just too big for the project box I used to build my controller.

I've got quite a bit of store credit with Grainger but I'm absolutely lost on which relay to use.

If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to suggest them from the Grainger catalog
 
Can someone confirm for me that this is what I need and will work fine. My 7.2 cu ft freezer reads 5A on the sticker. I currently reside in NC so the 110VAC is what I need correct.

Lastly, is this a decent price for the unit?

Thanks in advance!

Love thermo.jpg
 
I have a Ranco controller controlling the temps of my keezer. Can the controllers, you guys have linked, be used strictly as a thermometer so I can see the temp from the front side?
 
I paid $15.00 for it on ebay and it comes with the probe , rated for 10 amps
 
smittygouv30 said:
Can someone confirm for me that this is what I need and will work fine. My 7.2 cu ft freezer reads 5A on the sticker. I currently reside in NC so the 110VAC is what I need correct.

Lastly, is this a decent price for the unit?

Thanks in advance!

Though it reads 5 amps on the sticker this is normally the running current once it is turned on. Induction motors like the ones used on compressors will usually require a substantial draw to kick them on but then settle out at about the listed current. The best way to determine if your controller will work is to hook a meter up to the compressor connections and measure the peak draw. Use that for.your amp measurement.

The.alternative way is to use an external relay and let the relay trip the circuit directly from the wall.
 
I've got the 220v celcius version of this controller. I'm running 120v through it and it powers up fine, but I think my freezers draw amperage during startup is too much for the switching circuit. I'm trying to find a relay that will work but something this size is just too big for the project box I used to build my controller.

I've got quite a bit of store credit with Grainger but I'm absolutely lost on which relay to use.

If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to suggest them from the Grainger catalog

The 220V version will not function running on 120V. The display will come on, but it won't send signals to the relays. It has nothing to do with the draw, and using different relays won't fix it. If you read through the original thread for the STC-1000, there were numerous people who accidentally ordered the 220V, and then replaced the transformer inside to convert it to 120V. The replacement transformer is slightly taller, so you'll need to cut a hole in the enclosure. The transformer is only a ~$3-4 item, but most places that sell it have a min order of 5 units, and then you have to add shipping, so you might be better off just buying a 120V unit.

Can someone confirm for me that this is what I need and will work fine. My 7.2 cu ft freezer reads 5A on the sticker. I currently reside in NC so the 110VAC is what I need correct.

Lastly, is this a decent price for the unit?

Thanks in advance!

It will work, and that's the going rate for Love controllers, which are well made and warrantied. There are however cheap units from China available on e-bay for under $20 shipped (lower quality and no waranty, but good enough for most of us). They also come with the probe. Here's one-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-F-/320911229640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab7ccc2c8#ht_4084wt_1396
 
Thank you divi and JuanMoore that is very helpful information. My next and hopefully last question is about the difference between the Love controllers. I'd really like to order this thing today as the rest of my equipment should all be here tomorrow.

It seems clear that the TS-13010 is the most popular among HBT members, as most threads I find are in regards to this model. What is the difference between this model and the TS2-010. I'll link both if anyone can supply information for me. I have no problem ordering whatever I need but there is a significant price difference, $50(TS2) vs $87(TS). So, what will the TS do for me that the TS2 won't?

Thanks again,
Corey

TS
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=402&sPageName=Ordering

TS2
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/T...Switches/DigitalPanelMount/SeriesTS2/Ordering
 
JuanMoore said:
The 220V version will not function running on 120V. The display will come on, but it won't send signals to the relays. It has nothing to do with the draw, and using different relays won't fix it. If you read through the original thread for the STC-1000, there were numerous people who accidentally ordered the 220V, and then replaced the transformer inside to convert it to 120V. The replacement transformer is slightly taller, so you'll need to cut a hole in the enclosure. The transformer is only a ~$3-4 item, but most places that sell it have a min order of 5 units, and then you have to add shipping, so you might be better off just buying a 120V unit.

The link in the op is for a willhi controller. Not the st-1000. I can assure you that the 220v version runs perfectly fine on a lower draw freezer but on my 12cu ft whirlpool it will click to turn it on but the freezer will start only sometimes. Occasionally it will fire it up and when using a meter on the outlet during the kick on phase, it reads 4.5-4.7 amps at 120v. It should power a relay fine provided I can find one with ac 110v input.
 
Hi

A couple other things to consider:

1) Do you really want 110 VAC running around inside your keezer? It gets damp in there. Water and power are not a good combination.

2) Are you really going to change the temperature very often? A cheap battery powered temperature *display* (as in < $10) and a STC-1000 for about $20 might be a lower cost approach than a full blown degrees F controller.

Bob
 
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