E-HLT Woes

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ihearthops

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Mar 9, 2010
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Location
Charlotte, NC
So I have been working on an E-HLT for the past week -- built from a 15.5g sanke. The entire build has gone pretty flawless, lid cut off, holes drilled for weldless fittings, all fittings installed, weatherproof electrical gang box installed, keg insulated -- pretty much all set.

Except..

I originally had a 1750w element installed in the keg, and to avoid pushing the theoretical limits of the 15 amp circuit I will be operating on, I decided to back down to a 1500w and air on the side of caution. The only problem I noticed with the 1500w element is that the 1" gasket/SS nut I purchased from bargainfittings.com won't thread on the element, regardless of the methods I try -- it's almost like it's just a tad short.

On to my question. I can (with some elbow grease) get the gasket/nut to thread on the reverse side (the side that doesn't have the groove for the o-ring) -- any reason this wouldn't be a good idea? Assuming of course this is my only option. I have yet to water test the fittings (will do tomorrow), but assuming all is well from a water test perspective, is there any reason I CAN'T use the other end of the nut to compress the o-ring?

I completly understand this is me being wayyyy overly paranoid, but since i'm playing with water+electricity, I wanted to make sure i'm crossing all my T's and dotting the I's -- the build has gone great aside from this one little aggrevation.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance -- this forum has been my motivation/inspiration for all of my projects!

:mug:
 
I'm definately using a silicone o-ring on the inside, I just was only able to get the nut to thread on the element (with o-ring installed) using the side of the nut that WASN'T the grooved side made for o-ring contact -- if that makes sense.
 
Here are a few pics of the finished product. The last picture shows the "reverse" connection for the o-ring/ss nut I was talking about.

DSC_0248.jpg


DSC_0249.jpg


DSC_0250.jpg


DSC_0252.jpg
 
Are you using the stock / standard gasket on the outside as well? Can't tell from the pictures, but if you are, not sure you will need the silicone o-ring on the inside.

The real test in any event is, does it leak? If not I would suggest heating away.

Insulation looks great. Did you use reflectix? If so, what kind of tape?
 
You mention using the rubber gasket that comes with the water heater elements -- do most people ditch that gasket and just use the silicone o-ring/nut on the inside? If so, that may explain my issue. I was under the impression people generally went with both when attaching to a keggle.
 
Remove the standard rubber and replace it with the silicon ring and a washer for the spacing. You will only have the nut on the inside everything else is on the outside.
 
Remove the standard rubber and replace it with the silicon ring and a washer for the spacing. You will only have the nut on the inside everything else is on the outside.

I run the stock gasket on the outside, and just the nut on the inside, no o-ring. If you use the o-ring instead of the stock gasket, you should put it on the inside where the grooved nut can keep it captive as you tighten. There usually isn't enough thread to use both. I like using the stock gasket, since that's what it was designed for and it works excellently without requiring a seal along the threads as you would with the o-ring.
 
I run the stock gasket on the outside, and just the nut on the inside, no o-ring. If you use the o-ring instead of the stock gasket, you should put it on the inside where the grooved nut can keep it captive as you tighten. There usually isn't enough thread to use both. I like using the stock gasket, since that's what it was designed for and it works excellently without requiring a seal along the threads as you would with the o-ring.

In both cases you would place it on the outside, you use a washer where the silicon ring fits inside so you can tighten it. See picture from TheElectricBrewery.com

element_box_cutaway.jpg
 
I've got a 5500 watt element in a 6 gallon pot. I get my strike and sparge water up to temp in minutes. I brew out in my carport and run the electric pot with my generator. (it needs to be exercised regularly). I boil the wort with a standard turkey fryer burner in a 17.5 gallon aluminum pot.

When I installed the element into the pot, I just used what came with the element, nothing extra.
 
I appreciate all the responses. I decided to go with just the stock water heater gasket on the outside of the kettle and just the SS nut on the inside -- things seem to fit quite a bit better and SWMBO doesn't have to hear me curse at the keggle. I'm going to do a water test tomorrow night and fire her up for a brew day on Saturday.

:ban:
 
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