Brutus Ten ????

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Chimone said:
kegs are at welders getting couplers welded into place. So now I really need to start on my thermowell QDs. I ordered one of B3's new thermowell with the heat guard and my LOVE temp probe wont fit. I need to figure something else out

Dang. Good to know. I thought they were the same as the old ones with heat guard added. Can you give more detail on the misfit? I was just about to place this order.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/HTDOCS/temperature/ThermowellsIntro.cfm
 
That darn vinyl they paint on the probes! I should have mentioned that the vinyl coating renders these probes useless for a .250" thermowell. I removed the coating with ease down to the nice .250" brass probe awaiting underneath! A small bastard file and/or a bit of sandpaper did the trick nicely. Why they do this I don't have a clue, but they fit the thermowell's great with the coating removed with no degradation in accuracy. They must think it looks cool! Take it off... It works great!
 
colplink said:
That darn vinyl they paint on the probes! I should have mentioned that the vinyl coating renders these probes useless for a .250" thermowell. I removed the coating with ease down to the nice .250" brass probe awaiting underneath! A small bastard file and/or a bit of sandpaper did the trick nicely. Why they do this I don't have a clue, but they fit the thermowell's great with the coating removed with no degradation in accuracy. They must think it looks cool! Take it off... It works great!

Awesome post. Many thanks.
 
colplink said:
That darn vinyl they paint on the probes! I should have mentioned that the vinyl coating renders these probes useless for a .250" thermowell. I removed the coating with ease down to the nice .250" brass probe awaiting underneath! A small bastard file and/or a bit of sandpaper did the trick nicely. Why they do this I don't have a clue, but they fit the thermowell's great with the coating removed with no degradation in accuracy. They must think it looks cool! Take it off... It works great!

dude, you so rock!! :rockin:

thanks Lonnie
I was wondering if there would be any adverse affects to taking off that vinyl coating. Great post and thank you.

Question......for your QD thermowell, did you cut down the length of B3's thermowell to fit inside the T fitting?
 
No, I didn't... It was only about 3" long or so... It fit the tee fitting nicely.

I did forget to add though, I still had probs fitting the probe into the thermowell but it was the thermowell at fault. Seems natural though, when they weld the thermowell to the plug fitting, the metal at the entrance of the thermowell shrinks a bit so you can't get the .250" probe to insert. you can fix this with a rat tail file or a .250 reamer like I did.

File's have cool names! Rat Tail, Bastard...
 
Since Lonnie appears not to be selling the plans for the brutus ten any longer, would someone who has purchased be willing to send me a copy. If someone is willing to I will make a donation to Lonnie in the amount of $25. I have ordered the issue of BYO that the plans appeared in, but I would also like a copy of Lonnie's original
Thanks
Jason
 
the guy who posted above you is Lonnie. Send him a PM

*edit

and here is a pic of mine. Just picked it up today. It going to go back since the control panel arm is in the wrong place, but easy fix. Assembly is going smooth so far


brutus_005.jpg
 
jmurri said:
Since Lonnie appears not to be selling the plans for the brutus ten any longer, would someone who has purchased be willing to send me a copy. If someone is willing to I will make a donation to Lonnie in the amount of $25. I have ordered the issue of BYO that the plans appeared in, but I would also like a copy of Lonnie's original
Thanks
Jason

J, email sent my friend...

Chimone, that pic is a teaser! I need much more from you! I can already see that it looks GREAT!

Yes, I emailed the powers here to try and see if I can change my screen name to Lonnie Mac without having to purchase a new account. I never received a reply...

For all purposes, colplink is Lonnie Mac! I have had that goofy screen name since the Commodore 64 days... It is time to let it go!
 
Chimone said:
ok question.....

more beer has those very nice SS quick disconnects for 30 bucks a set. Has anyone seen them for less anywhere else? If not Ill settle for brass ones. Well Im either going quick disconnects or those clover ones used in the real breweries. Not sure yet, we'll see how much I have leftover from my refund.

And yes the chiller is going to be another 100 bucks or so. Going with a plate chiller

They do not specify the maximum temperature the rubber seal can tolerate.
 
BrewBeemer said:
They do not specify the maximum temperature the rubber seal can tolerate.

If they are Snap-Tite's with Buna-N seals, they are rated for -40F - 250F. I'm not sure if this is the case since B3 doesn't make it easy to get information from their pictures.
 
Chimone said:
holy cow, where were you two days ago?

good find

My Dad and my wife think I am some kind of hawk sniffing stuff out on the internet.

With these thermowells, you'll need to get a 1/2 MPT x 1/4 FPT clamp it in a vise and use a dremel or a saw to slot the reducer enough to get the probe wire through, then you can use the reducer to hold the ranco or other .25 probe into the thermowell.

Linc
 
missing link said:
My Dad and my wife think I am some kind of hawk sniffing stuff out on the internet.

With these thermowells, you'll need to get a 1/2 MPT x 1/4 FPT clamp it in a vise and use a dremel or a saw to slot the reducer enough to get the probe wire through, then you can use the reducer to hold the ranco or other .25 probe into the thermowell.

Linc

I'm wondering if the 4" is too long for the tee setup that Lonnie Mac uses on the MLT.
 
Thanks for the reply to my earlier question. Well my version (Buick Brutus - because that stand can support a Buick!) is in the works.

My new question: Where is the best place to buy a regulator for my propane tank? I know B3 carries them but I figure Linc has found someplace that gives them out for free!

Thanks in advance...
 
well I would be working away on my brutus right now, but once again B3 didn't update their website to let me know an item is out of stock so I am still waiting for them to send my entire order because one item is out of stock......

Oh and if anyone has any ideas for an electrical box to use for the control panel Im open to suggestions.
 
Chimone said:
well I would be working away on my brutus right now, but once again B3 didn't update their website to let me know an item is out of stock so I am still waiting for them to send my entire order because one item is out of stock......

Oh and if anyone has any ideas for an electrical box to use for the control panel Im open to suggestions.

I have been studying the box question. Cooper B-Line has some pretty cool stainless units, but they are pricey.
 
Bobby_M said:
I would rather gouge my eyes out than ever deal with St Pats. Trust me, you don't want to go there.

Care to elaborate?

I ordered two 4" thermowells yesterday (wednesday) and they shipped today (thursday) and will be here on monday.
 
HarvInSTL said:
Care to elaborate?

I ordered two 4" thermowells yesterday (wednesday) and they shipped today (thursday) and will be here on monday.

I ordered 2 of the 4 inch as well earlier in the week. I expect them to arrive soon. You must be closer to them than I am.

Linc
 
pieper said:
Thanks for the reply to my earlier question. Well my version (Buick Brutus - because that stand can support a Buick!) is in the works.

My new question: Where is the best place to buy a regulator for my propane tank? I know B3 carries them but I figure Linc has found someplace that gives them out for free!

Thanks in advance...

I haven't had to look for any propane accessories yet. I'm using the burner from my smoker/fryer for boiling and electric for everything else. Sorry
 
If anybody is looking for two brand new 14 gallon kettles for their Brutus, I have them listed in classified. Went for the Blichman's.
 
wshymas said:
I did turn the burners this way so I could control the flow. here is a link to northern brewer with some info on the burners. http://www.northernbrewer.com/burners.html
I am using a different gas regulator then what is sold with the burners (the recommended regulator did not work very well with two burners running so I picked up a 0-60 psi regulator.) I will be moving the burners down away from the kegs to try and get a better burn. Check out this thread (Adjusting a burner height) I hope this helps

Hey wshymas-- (or anyone that knows)

By the looks of your pictures you are utilizing the 'gas beam' idea from Lonnie and the hurricane burners. You mentioned you purchased a difference regulator and run less than 30PSI.

Any idea what PSI you are runnning? The original regulator for those hurricane burners is described as a "High Pressure - Low Output". Im wondering if that gas beam is rated to handle the PSI of that regulator. And 2nd, all the gas valves im finding are rated to 5 PSI. These are fine for all the low pressure regulators and burners at .4 PSI im seeing, but are there high pressure LP Gas valves and do i need those ?

Also, wont the PSI of that hurricane regulator demand specific ASCO valves depending on much pressure they are rated for? Im shopping for the 8120G75s. What did you use in your setup ?

MNBugeater
 
My friends, I can only address the pressure beam issue. For some reason this one keeps coming up. This is a chunk of 1/8" wall stainless steel! It is stronger than your black iron pipe will ever hope to be... Let's put this into perspective. The beer bottle you opened is about 10 psi, the same as your average high pressure low output burner! At normal temp, your pressure bomb sitting in the corner (with a weld completely around it) is around 150 psi... I think our beams are safe! :) :) :)
 
Great thread. My Brutus is 1/2 done, I have the pumps, Therminater, burners, thermowells, temp controllers, valves, and stand ready to go but am researching pilot light assemblies. I think I have all the information I need from these posts. Hopefully mine will be done in the next few weeks. I have a few minor changes I'd like to install. I want to add a grill on top to avoid heating the frame assembly. I also have two Belimo proportioning valves that I want to use for regulating pump flow from the control panel remotely (just because). If any one has any extra advise on a standing pilot assembly please chime in.
 
Jeepsn beer said:
Great thread. My Brutus is 1/2 done, I have the pumps, Therminater, burners, thermowells, temp controllers, valves, and stand ready to go but am researching pilot light assemblies. I think I have all the information I need from these posts. Hopefully mine will be done in the next few weeks. I have a few minor changes I'd like to install. I want to add a grill on top to avoid heating the frame assembly. I also have two Belimo proportioning valves that I want to use for regulating pump flow from the control panel remotely (just because). If any one has any extra advise on a standing pilot assembly please chime in.

There is lots of good information in the Asco thread. I have done quite a bit of research on this topic.
 
For sale:

2 Asco 8210G075 valves for fuel gas. (Brand new in box)
2 Basso H19-AL1 pilot safety valves (New Old Stock)
2 Honeywell Q314 A Pilot Burners (Brand new)

I would like to sell the whole lot. This is a complete pilot system for your Brutus.
Just add thermocouples, plumbing, and controls.

Lot Price: $300.00
 
MF'in morebeer!!! I ordered on Feb 28th, and I got an email the next day saying an item was out of stock. I still have not heard a thing from those bastards! My Brutus is just chillin, waiting for parts.....


This is the last time I order anythign from them. My last two orders have been f['ed up. You run a big internet HBS, then you make purchasing a breeze. If not, you loose business.

/rant
 
In case anyone is using the bent steel pump shroud, i have an alternative to welding bar stock across the support tube. I am using a square tubing insert (as for the casters) and a 3/8" machine screw to secure. Just an option in case anybody was wondering how to do this (Like me).
 
Lonnie Mac said:
Eggcellent idea korndog!!!
Code:

Thanks Lonnie Mac! The fins might get in the way if your pump screws are too long, but it's an easy fix. I'm installing gas system on Friday; can't wait to brew with my new rig. I'm calling it E2 Korndog, keeping the Caesar theme alive.
 
Korndog--

You mentioned you were looking at getting the Blichmann kettle(s). In keeping with Lonnie Mac's design, do you intend to drill the hole in the lids for the pump returns? I think you have convinced me to get the Blichmanns also, but im having a hard time putting a hole in the lid. Not sure why..other than the fact that im about to drop nearly $1200 on 3 Kettles and then immediately put holes in the lids...but i guess thats why im buying them.

I dont know who it is on the forum, but someone has a signature that is something to the effect: "Homebrewing is neither complicated, nor expensive; it is the responsibility of the homebrewer to make it as complicated and expensive as possible." or something like that...

Well, according to my parts list so far, i will have the stand funtional and finished for around $1200. I planned on spending $2000 and reusing most of my existing brew equipment. Since it came in much less than i thought, im going to sell my 2 big kettles and get Blichmanns....i think.

MNBugeater
 
MNBugeater said:
Korndog--

You mentioned you were looking at getting the Blichmann kettle(s). In keeping with Lonnie Mac's design, do you intend to drill the hole in the lids for the pump returns? I think you have convinced me to get the Blichmanns also, but im having a hard time putting a hole in the lid. Not sure why..other than the fact that im about to drop nearly $1200 on 3 Kettles and then immediately put holes in the lids...but i guess thats why im buying them.

I dont know who it is on the forum, but someone has a signature that is something to the effect: "Homebrewing is neither complicated, nor expensive; it is the responsibility of the homebrewer to make it as complicated and expensive as possible." or something like that...

Well, according to my parts list so far, i will have the stand funtional and finished for around $1200. I planned on spending $2000 and reusing most of my existing brew equipment. Since it came in much less than i thought, im going to sell my 2 big kettles and get Blichmanns....i think.

MNBugeater

As of right now, I am planning to do just that. It's an ingenious concept, and one of the signature features of the Brutus design. However, my brew club friends are trying to talk me into going HERMS, and making modifications to that effect. I doubt I will give in though. Either way, I can't see avoiding some kind of modification to the lids or kettles. I'm sorry I talked you into those kettles! Mine are on the way. They are just too bitchin to ignore.
 
Yes it is an ingenious idea and considering im buying them for brewing and this purpose i dont see using the pots/lids for anything else. So i plan in putting the returns in the lids.

If im going to drill into them at all, it would be the lid rather than the kettle itself.

Let me know just how 'bitchin' they are, so ill feel better about ordering them and wont try to make you feel guilty. :D
 
I'm placing an order with McMasterCarr and was hoping to order as much as I could from them for this build.

Would #48915K61 work for the gas ball valves?
 
HarvInSTL said:
I'm placing an order with McMasterCarr and was hoping to order as much as I could from them for this build.

Would #48915K61 work for the gas ball valves?

I ordered those. They should work fine.
 

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