rubbermaid mash tun? what is better?

i got the 10 gal rubbermaid cooler.
i have the ball valve hooked up with no problem.
what is better for the inside??
some have the ss braid line and some have a pvc mainfold or copper?
which way to go??
i already have the parts for the ss braid line but ppl complain about the braid collapsing and getting a stuck sparge. (i can add the ss spring)
or would it be better with the pvc??

Are you trying to batch or fly sparge?

I love my braid. Great efficiency and no stuck sparge issues. I batch sparge, and usually after just a few quarts of vorlauf I get good clear wort.

False bottom is my vote works awesome

Braid IMO. I have never had issues and have used the smaller sink/toilet supply, but am currently using a sturdier washing machine supply braid. If you want to be extra sure use a hot water heater supply braid, they are brawny and indestructible and still only about ten bucks. Just dont stir like a fool and wind a long braid into a pretzel. I always stir along the braid lengthwise out of habit, I swear some feel the silly need to stir like an outboard motor.

I got the ss braid from hd. It's a 20" sink,toilet line.
Did u take the inside of it out and just use the braid? Did u put anything inside of braid to make it rigid?

Copper manifold. It won't compress and gives less dead space. Also I have learned that 'Stainless Steel' at Big Orange and Big Blue doesn't really mean rust free SS. They will do anything to save a buck. Go with a copper manifold.

I did braid, and had no end of problems, (kinking and crushing it, having it float up, getting tangled up in it with my drill or paddle). CPVC manifolds are super easy to make, and work great.

I cut my slits in my manifold with a sawzall. Works great.

integra93ls said:

I got the ss braid from hd. It's a 20" sink,toilet line.
Did u take the inside of it out and just use the braid? Did u put anything inside of braid to make it rigid?

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I got the tip to take syphon tubing and I cut v notches every inch or so bottom and top and feed it through the braid. Mine has been a beast so far.

I just did my first all grain brew and I opted for copper. It was pretty easy and will probably last me a long time.

I'm on my third MT. I started with a 5 gallon , went to a 10 gallon, and now use a 15 gallon. I have only used braided hose and batch sparge. Works for me.

A false bottom works great in the round Rubbermaid coolers.

On a cooler Id say go with the braid its a lot easier solution and cheaper to boot.

braids are not quite as good on a big keggle system. I had some issues with stuck sparges on large grain bills. I had to go to a manifold with the slits pointed downward have never had an issue since.

integra93ls said:

I got the ss braid from hd. It's a 20" sink,toilet line.
Did u take the inside of it out and just use the braid? Did u put anything inside of braid to make it rigid?

Click to expand...

a lot of people have inserted cpvc pipe with holes drilled in it into the braid to make it more rigid.

I went to fly sparging so went from a bazooka tube to a false bottom

Copper with slits. Thats what works for me. First time I used a stainless braid I got a stuck mash, was it my fault? Maybe, but I will never use one again. I have the copper manifold in both my 5 and 10 gallon coolers.

cpvc with slits for me.. haven't had a stuck one yet, and if you don't cement it makes it easy to take apart to clean/dry..

integra93ls said:

i got the 10 gal rubbermaid cooler.
i have the ball valve hooked up with no problem.
what is better for the inside??
some have the ss braid line and some have a pvc mainfold or copper?
which way to go??
i already have the parts for the ss braid line but ppl complain about the braid collapsing and getting a stuck sparge. (i can add the ss spring)
or would it be better with the pvc??

Click to expand...

I had nothing but problems with the braid, I built a copper manifold and it drains beautiful, sucks up almost every drop.

Where in put valley are you? I'm in mahopac if you need help or equiptment let me know. I have a band saw and it only took about 5 min to cut all the slits in the copper.
Come to the westchester homebrew club meeting, it's the 4th Wednesday of every month at captain Lawrence brewery.

never mind... found one...

False bottom. More versatile, easier to clean, and it will last forever.

I use a CPVC manifold with slots in my Rubbermaid. I kept the circle about 2" away from the wall of the cooler and though I have only done 2 batches so far, it works great. No stuck sparges and around 75% efficiency.

first time out cvpc stuck and stuck & sticky stuck... going back to a bag in tun. modified BIAB. if she sticks lift and free run again.
have a 5 gal false bottom I may try even below my cpvc and bag set up if still sticking.

I get great results from a false bottom and it will last forever.

I'm kinda new at AG, and I 1st did the SS braid, as it was the easy way to get into it.

That being said, After my 2 nd mashing I knew I wasn't getting all of my liquid out of my 48 qt. cooler. I had to tilt one end up with 2 2x4's to almost drain completely.

On my cooler, the drain was about 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" above the bottom.
It left over a gallon of wort if I didn't tilt it. Thats quit a bit.

So I read about the mash tun manifolds on the How to Brew website and others.

I decided to go with the CPVC material. It's very easy to work with, and everybody will have the tools to make one with this material. This is what I came up with below.

BTW, As Plamer says, in How to Brew, a good spacing for the manifold is 2" - 4" apart,Closer is better. The "T's" and "90's" CPVC parts I used, will give you a spacing of 2" apart , when touching one another. The long pipes , the ONLY ones that have slits @ 1/4" apart and 1/3 deep.I cut the slits with a Japanese pull saw. I used another "T" and another "90" to connect to the drain. Took me about an hour and a half, Start to finish.

After I cut and assembled it, I did some water tests to SEE with my own eyes, how it would work. I did the same with the SS braid, and could see since the drain was higher, it would leave a lot of water in the bottom after draining, and HAD to TILT IT UP, to get ALMOST all outa it. But not , nowhere all of it. Still left alot in there.

With the CPVC and a 3/8" HOSE put on the 3/8" valve outside the cooler. I added 3 gallons of water. Started the draining , and watched the water go down fast. I thought once the water level got to the bottom of the drain (that is 1 1`/2" above the bottom) that it would stop. It didn't. I went right down to the bottom floor of the cooler. It only left 12 oz of water. Like not even an 1/8" on the bottom.

Poured the 3 gallons of water back into the cooler, and removed the 3/8" hose from the valve. Opened it up, and to my surprise, Much, Much SLOWER. way slower, and the water stopped right at the drain.

I just learned what the hose does. The hose acts to siphon and really SUCK the liquid out. With my drain being 1 1/2" higher!

In MHO, If your drain is not flush with, OR very close to the bottom of your cooler, I think your better off with some kinda manifold rather than a SS Braid.

Reason why I'm writing this is, I hope it helps other Starter Outers like my self. Hopefully , this can clear some "NOT KNOWINGS" up.

BTW, I know all of the more experienced brewers here, will already have all of this knowledge!!! LOL

Anyone can message me if ya want more info.

I get great efficiency with a braid and no stuck sparges yet. I fill like it would be easy to leave some dough balls hanging around a manifold, anyone have this happen?

I went ahead and got the 12" SS false bottom (ordered mine form AHS while doing a grain order) It was $40 adn is useable in a keggle according to the website (I plan to be upgrading in the future). Unless you have materials on hand for a manifold I would guess you would spend at LEAST that much on materials, then have to put it all together. It was worth the timesavings to me. I will be using it on my first AG in 2 weeks.

Reaver said:

I went ahead and got the 12" SS false bottom (ordered mine form AHS while doing a grain order) It was $40 adn is useable in a keggle according to the website (I plan to be upgrading in the future). Unless you have materials on hand for a manifold I would guess you would spend at LEAST that much on materials, then have to put it all together. It was worth the timesavings to me. I will be using it on my first AG in 2 weeks.

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Good choice. You will love it.

Very simple copper manifold. Used a tube bending spring, took me maybe 30-45min from start to finish including the slotting. Cut slots with a dremel.