American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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just racked this to secondary with a gravity reading of 1.012, on to two pounds of pasteurized seedless green grapes and an ounce of french oak with heavy char. A rebel, I know... the sample I took to get the gravity reading was most delicious
:mug:
 
I am new to AG brewing. I just purchased Beersmith 2. When I punched this recipe in, it gave me a brewhouse efficiency of 30.3%. I believe I have enetered everything correctly. I have the correct water amounts and have it set to single infusion, light body, Batch Sparge. I'm assuming that I am doing something wrong since that efficiency level is showing that it would be so low. Anyone have any idea what I could be doing wrong?
 
The efficiency reading means nothing until you enter in your numbers from the brew day. Go to the fermentation tab and set all of the fields that are editable to 0.0. it should then show a brewhouse efficiency of 0.0%.
 
The efficiency reading means nothing until you enter in your numbers from the brew day. Go to the fermentation tab and set all of the fields that are editable to 0.0. it should then show a brewhouse efficiency of 0.0%.

I see it now, thanks for the help.
 
I brewed this last night I did a half a batch but ended up with about 3 gallons of wort after boil so not quite the boil off i expected but more beer for me. My preboil sg was about 1.046 (my notes did not save) and post boil was at 1.052. I did a biab version. It turned out really bitter and really sweet which should be a good thing. I used safale us-05 and pitched at 74 degrees because i could not get my wort down lower than that. So i had a good amount of lag but it started up around noon this morning and has been bubbling since. I did have a question. My wort seemed to have a lot of "trub" in it left over from mashing. When transferring to my bucket I siphoned and filtered with my grain bag and got some of it out but didnt really bother with that much. So is this debris bad for the beer? I figured it was protein or sugar. I also had a rough time maintaining my temperature. I tried using hot and cold water but my pot was so large that the temp varied from one side of the pot to the other.

P.S. Not only was this my first all grain but it was my first brew period. Thanks for the great recipe
 
All of the trub is normal for biab. I transfer everything into my fermentor when I BIAB just make sure to let everything settle out before transferring to secondary or bottling. If the beer looks cloudy let it sit longer or cold crash to force the yeast out of suspension
 
All of the trub is normal for biab. I transfer everything into my fermentor when I BIAB just make sure to let everything settle out before transferring to secondary or bottling. If the beer looks cloudy let it sit longer or cold crash to force the yeast out of suspension
Thanks its always nice to get some reassurance. I plan to keep it in the primary for a little longer because i do not have anywhere near the amount of bottles needed and whats the fun in buying empties :mug:
 
I appoligize for asking this question, but I did not want to go through the 200+ pages. Obviously this is a very popular brew.

My question is, are there any update for the extract recipe? I'm going to brew your recipe this weekend 2/11/12 and thought I should ask.

Thanks for the recipe!
 
Chalk up another 'First All Grain' to this recipe! Brewed this today, followed original as presented. Hoping I like this well enough to brew again and again and want to establish a baseline. Hit all the numbers as expected, it went really well. I like doing all grain, and the SWIMBO is excited to make bread with some of the spent grain, as is the dog about spent grain biscuits. Thanks for the recipe!
 
I took a sample today out of curiosity and read a sg of 1.018 and my beer was really pale

ForumRunner_20120206_164107.jpg
 
I'm a fairly new brewer so I was hoping to get some insight on my issue. I brewed this and let it sit in the primary for 2 weeks then age in the keg at room temp for close to 3 weeks. I chilled it and carbed it this weekend and am getting a very strong alcohol tasting finish at the end. My fermenting temps were good and consistent as well. Any ideas? Or is this beer simply not ready yet?
Thanks
 
egsb said:
I'm a fairly new brewer so I was hoping to get some insight on my issue. I brewed this and let it sit in the primary for 2 weeks then age in the keg at room temp for close to 3 weeks. I chilled it and carbed it this weekend and am getting a very strong alcohol tasting finish at the end. My fermenting temps were good and consistent as well. Any ideas? Or is this beer simply not ready yet?
Thanks

What was your OG & FG? What yeast did you use?
 
First post here. Long time creepin' but I had to say that I am bottling this tomorrow and I am so pumped. Opened the lid on the ol fermentus and it smelled awesome. Love the turn around on this baby.
 
Bottled my 1 gal batch yesterday and this tasted soo good. Wife wants me to make another batch asap. Think I will.
 
lol. I know. But I like my set up. However I do have 2 5 gal 1 rated water cooler bottles one which is Apfelwine right now so maybe I will do a 5 gal batch next month.
 
I just brewed up my third batch of this which dropped from 1.011 to 1.006 after just a few days in secondary and 3 weeks in primary. Would this be from moving it around or maybe an increase in temp(I moved it to a slightly warmer room, but just by like two defgrees.)?
 
Has anyone ever had Milwaukee Brewing Company's pale ale, I believe it is called Pull Chain? It was very similar to this recipe I thought. I took a sip and was instantly like "I swear I am drinking my homebrew."
 
Brewing this for the third time. 1st time was amazing. 2nd time I made the mistake of adding DME while it was fermenting (still drinkable but not the real thing!). I just mashed in and I left my drain valve open while adding strike water, I'm such a fail, my wife had to turn the valve off (in her scrubs) while I held onto my HLT. Wish me luck?
 
I just brewed up my third batch of this which dropped from 1.011 to 1.006 after just a few days in secondary and 3 weeks in primary. Would this be from moving it around or maybe an increase in temp(I moved it to a slightly warmer room, but just by like two defgrees.)?

i would like to hear some discussion about this because i've had a lot of my beers do this sort of thing over the last year and i can't pin down the problem...any opinions from the veterans?
 
i would like to hear some discussion about this because i've had a lot of my beers do this sort of thing over the last year and i can't pin down the problem...any opinions from the veterans?

Honestly it could be several different things causing it. Reintroduction of oxygen, getting the yeast stirred up, wild yeast. If it's going to do that though, better in the secondary than in the bottle. I usually don't secondary unless I'm doing it to clear so I haven't ran into that problem yet.
 
Honestly it could be several different things causing it. Reintroduction of oxygen, getting the yeast stirred up, wild yeast. If it's going to do that though, better in the secondary than in the bottle. I usually don't secondary unless I'm doing it to clear so I haven't ran into that problem yet.

it's weird, what prompted me to post my "problem" was the pale ale i just bottled thursday, which happens to be similar to edwort's haus ale here (i think i consulted his recipe before i came up with mine) - i just popped one open and took a gravity reading and it's right where i want it and it tastes delicious and spot on...i was probably just careless doing the reading the other day - and come to think of it, i discovered recently that my hydrometer is about 3 points off, so that accounts for at least some of my low readings...but i though it read "low" even taking that into consideration...strange stuff...thanks for your response
 
Made this today. My first all grain. Biab style. Everything went well and I hit the OG perfectly. I used crystal 60 because it's what I had. And I added 8oz unmalted wheat for head just because I had it. I adjusted the recipe for Biab to account for some loss but ended up having to leave some wort in the kettle because I had too much. Hurt me to just dump it. Only about half a gal max though. I hope it tastes as good as it smells.
 
Ed, only one problem with this recipe: It goes down so smooth that the keg is draining fast! This is a winner for the home team.
 
Bottled today after 12 days in primary and 6 days dryhopped in secondary and 2 days after hops removed. Used amarillo to dry hop heres hopeing it turns out good.
 
HausPaleAleweb.jpg


This is my Haus Pale Ale. A very quaffable beer that is very easy to make using basic ingredients and a dry yeast.

Grain Bill
8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt

Mash
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Click here for great info on Batch Sparging.
Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.

Mini Mash

You might be able to do a mini mash with 5 lbs. of light DME.

Heat 3.5 qts of water to ~168/169F in a pot.
Heat a gallon of water to ~170 in another pot.
Add 2lb. of Vienna and 1/2 lb. of Crystal 10L (crushed grains) to the pot with the 168/169F water and stir very throughly.
Put lid on that pot, placed in oven at 150F.
Let it sit for an hour.
Pour the water (now wort) into your brew pot through your strainer. Put grains back into pot.

Pour the 170F water into the pot where your grain is, stir throughly, let sit for 10 mins. Pour that wort into your brew pot through your strainer.

You'll get 50-60% efficiency with that partial mash method.

Add additional water, extract, and hops to the brew pot and proceed like usual.

Extract Version

Here's what I have converted for an Extract version. Vienna must be mashed, but Austin Homebrew sells Munich LME which should bring this pretty darn close to the All Grain version. Just steep your Crystal 10 L and do a full boil and follow the hop schedule.

6.5# Extra Pale LME
1.5# Munich LME
8 oz. Crystal 10L (steep)

Boil & Hops

1.0 oz Cascade 6.6% at 60 min.
0.5 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 30 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 15 min.
0.25 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 5 min.

Chill to 70 to 75 degrees

Pitch with Nottingham Dry Yeast. No starter or hydration. Update! With the Nottingham shortage, Safale -05 is a great substitute and will make a great beer too. Very similar.

This ferments out very fast, so I will crash cool and keg after 1 week to 10 days. This recipe is calculated at 75% efficiency. I'm getting over 80% though with my Barley Crusher and my 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler w/stainless braid MLT.

The beer drops very clear after sitting in the kegerator for a week and looks like this.

HausAle3.jpg


It's my Haus Ale because it turned out to be a beer that everyone likes. It's light, crisp, dry, and very tasty which means several trips to the tapper.

You can get all the ingredients with a single click here: http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com


It is too cold in Montreal to brew all grain so I'll try a partial mash for the first time. Can't find a Munich LME...what can I do since Vienna should be mashed? I heard that if you mix the vienna with some 2-row then it would work....can you help? thanks
 
I brewed this as my first all grain attempt last weekend. My OG was 1.046. I checked FG today (six days later) and its at 1.006. Thanks for the recipe Ed. I can't wait to see what the end result produces.
 
It is too cold in Montreal to brew all grain so I'll try a partial mash for the first time. Can't find a Munich LME...what can I do since Vienna should be mashed? I heard that if you mix the vienna with some 2-row then it would work....can you help? thanks

Vienna can convert itself--it doesn't need 2row in the mash (or so I've read, I've never done a vienna SMASH before). Depending on how big your mashing kettle/pot is, you could add some 2-row to lessen the amount of extract you have to use. Use a calculator (brewtarget is free, or use the recipe generator at BMW) to figure out how much 2-row and how much light L/DME you need to hit Ed's gravity numbers. Also use this to see how much you can fit in your pot.
 
Vienna can convert itself--it doesn't need 2row in the mash (or so I've read, I've never done a vienna SMASH before). Depending on how big your mashing kettle/pot is, you could add some 2-row to lessen the amount of extract you have to use. Use a calculator (brewtarget is free, or use the recipe generator at BMW) to figure out how much 2-row and how much light L/DME you need to hit Ed's gravity numbers. Also use this to see how much you can fit in your pot.
thanks tennesse!
I use Beer Tool so I can figure out the amount of grain to replace the LME. Just hope my indoor kettle is big enough. just hope I'll get the gravity point. If I take a gravity reading after 1 hour and realize it,s too low. Can I add some LME?
s
 
I'm on day 8 at 1.018 ish in the fermenter. It was kinda cold where I had it fermenting (50-56f) and I accounted for temp in the gravity reading. Should I warm it up a bit before secondary? See if it drops a bit more? The ferm was pretty violent. I am gonna have to warm the yeast a little anyway because I'm going to rack a big beer onto the cake Tuesday.
 

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