Almost finished 4912 Conversion!

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mullimat

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Started converting my Sanyo 4912 last night and got up to having the hole in the top for the tower drilled and sealed. Just got all my equipment from Midwest and installed the tower and almost ready to go! Just two problems and i'm wondering if anyone can chime in about how to fix these. I had to take the door panel off (thought i might have been able to get away with out doing that) and now i can't figure out how to get the seal back on. Does everyone just cut the door panel out so the seal can stay screwed in or do they do something else to get the seal back on? My other question is about my tower. It came with the lines for the faucets but the connections are screw on. Obviously these don't match up with the quick disconnects on the kegs. So what do i have to do/buy/get to get these lines to link up with the kegs? (the kegs did come with picnic taps and lines connected to quick disconnects so you can hook the picnic taps to the kegs) Sorry if these are stupid questions but i'm not very handy when it comes to stuff like this! I'm surprised my kegerator actually turned out as well as it did! lol
 
Lol. I also can't figure out how to get the lid off the kegs. Damn i must sound really stupid.
 
mullimat said:
Lol. I also can't figure out how to get the lid off the kegs. Damn i must sound really stupid.
Pull the pressure release valve to let all the pressure out. If the keg is pressureized, you'll never get the lid off.
 
mullimat said:
Lol. I also can't figure out how to get the lid off the kegs. Damn i must sound really stupid.
Make sure to release any pressure in the keg with the pressure relief valve on the lid and then pull up on the lever on the keg lid. It should come off but you may have to tap the lid a bit. This may help >> http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/Keg_lid.htm
 
The end of your lines probably screw into ball valve disconnects (threaded flare, not barbed). You'll need the connectors to go between them and the keg.

There's a good basic diagram here:

http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KP

To get the keg lid off, first pull the ring to release the pressure in the keg, then flip the bar on the lid. The bar will work as the handle to manipulate the lid out.
 
Oh i got that. Those quick disconnects came with my picnic taps. The problem is the screw connects on the lines from the tower are WAY too big to fit on the disconnects. We're talking these screw on connects are almost as big as the quick disconnect themselves. Also what did you all do about the seal for the door? Did you all just cut the plastic for the door out to leave the seal screwed in or what?
 
mullimat said:
Also what did you all do about the seal for the door? Did you all just cut the plastic for the door out to leave the seal screwed in or what?
http://homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=19762&page=9
My conversion is halfway down the page. I cut out the panel, but left the edge with the screws and put a laminated panel behind it.
 
Hmm. i was hoping i wouldn't have to cut that door panel out. Just in case i wanted to later put it back in (like if i decided to keep the CO2 tank outside).
 
mullimat said:
Hmm. i was hoping i wouldn't have to cut that door panel out. Just in case i wanted to later put it back in (like if i decided to keep the CO2 tank outside).
I have the tank on the outside, but that's a personal preference.

I just left my panel in tact. Tighter fit, but works none the less.

Inventory1.JPG
 
Yeah see for now i want to keep the tank inside the fridge but later on i might want to keep it outside. If i decide to do that then i'll just look up how other people ran the lines. But what i'm concerned about for now is how to get the seal on the door (with some kind of glue or something) so that i don't have to go tearing into the door panel and have the option of later putting the door panel back in should i decide to put the tank outside. Does anyone know what would just hold that seal on?
 
mullimat said:
Yeah see for now i want to keep the tank inside the fridge but later on i might want to keep it outside. If i decide to do that then i'll just look up how other people ran the lines. But what i'm concerned about for now is how to get the seal on the door (with some kind of glue or something) so that i don't have to go tearing into the door panel and have the option of later putting the door panel back in should i decide to put the tank outside. Does anyone know what would just hold that seal on?
Use clear kitchen caulk. Sticky enough to adhere, but plyable enough to remove without too much work or damage.
 
BierMuncher said:
Use clear kitchen caulk. Sticky enough to adhere, but plyable enough to remove without too much work or damage.

Great idea. I'll have to go get some tomorrow. Now about my connection problem, i think i figured out that i just have to take the monster connections off the tower lines and throw the quick disconnects from the picnic taps on there. Only problem is the lines are all connected onto the barbs with those crimp hose clamps. Anyone know how to get those off?
 
So i'm going to have to get all new barbs? Great. Wish i would have known that before so i could have just ordered it with the rest of the stuff that got here today.
 
uhlee1 said:
I did exactly what this guy did with the door. http://community.livejournal.com/homebrewing/413981.html

It worked perfectly. Trace around the door panel and screw holes, cut it out, and she goes right back on, gasket and all. I may end up needing the door panel if I upgrade down the road to something that holds more kegs.

:mug:
Yeah, I did the same thing with the door panel. I used 3\16" masonite and the door panel is in the basement in case I want to use it ever again.
 
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