Help with Temp Controller and Temp managing

So I recently took a electric turkey fryer, gutted it and made it so theres no control and just plug in and it turns on, unplug its off. Now what im trying to do is make a temp controller for it, but have heard the ebay temp controllers (which im familiar with and have two for fridge control) arent good for the heating element because of amp draw.

Can someone help me in making a temp controller at a similar price range?

Also i need a way to manage the mixing/recirculation of the water to keep even temps, but dont want to spend 150 on a pump

Adeering;

Need a little more info on the fryer and more thoughts on what you want to accomplish with the controller.

When you say 'ebay' controller; I can get just about anything on ebay. But from the sounds of it you are using one that directly switches your fridge and the draw for almost any heating system will need to use some kind of relay to handle the amperage. Are you just boiling or are you using this for mashing.
Also, search this forum for ideas on controllers. You can find more good reading on this forum than is contained in any book when it comes to electrical builds.
Everyone is more than willing to help when they understand what you are trying to accomplish.

Adeering said:

Also i need a way to manage the mixing/recirculation of the water to keep even temps, but dont want to spend 150 on a pump

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Stir it manually with a paddle. I did this for a bunch of brews before I got my pump plumbed in. Really not that much work. Thats cheap!

The temp controller will be for the mash part and for the ebay controller, im refering to the ebay aquarium temp controller used by a lot of people on here.

As for the turkey fryer, as it is now it can just be considered a heat stick. Ive got it wired to where it just plugs in and its got power. I believe its 1650W 110V.

So if I got a SSR would I wire the temp controller to the relay and then the power to the heatstick, is that how it would work? A diagram would be more helpful for me

Edit: put a rough diagram up that i think should work if I understand correct

For anyone to give you any kind of diagram, need more info.
If you are going to use what I'm guessing you want to use for a temperature controller I see the limitation being the output is 5a AC 110 (or possibly 220) The SSR's I use are switched via a DC switching signal. But seeing as the aquarium controllers are most likely ON/OFF controllers a mechanical relay is what you would want. And I see no problem since a lot of times I run my PID in ON/OFF mode. Not as exact, but if you know your controls you can accomplish the same thing.

Auber Instruments has inexpensive mechanical relay's
Do you have the specs for your temperature controller? or link to the actual one you want to use?

If you really want to use a SSR you will need a DC power source. Which is doable. The SSR is quieter. Auber Ins. SSR need a DC 3-32 v. You could get an old 'wall wort' (old phone charger) dc power supply and use it to activate the SSR running it through the relay contact on your temperature controller.

They do make SRR with AC control but they are much less common. For this purpose I think a PID would be a better choice at not much more cost.

Here is an idea to let you work with what you know. But I do not know the real specs on your controller so you need to proceed with caution!!!!!!!!!

As I said earlier, if you want help you need to give all the information possible.

DaleHair said:

They do make SRR with AC control but they are much less common. For this purpose I think a PID would be a better choice at not much more cost.

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Do you know if they are low voltage ac current or if the signal on 110/220?

I've only seen low voltage AC but have seen reference to 120v.

Out of curiosity a google search came up with this 230AC controlled SSR

http://www.delabs.net/news/2008/06/23/connection-diagram-of-ac-control-ssr/

heres the listing for the temp controller and what I know about it. EBAY Link

also link for the thread with the build for the fridge controller build Thread

That is the one I have and the lowest set point difference is .3C or .54F, the difference between turning on an off, and a min off time of 1 minute. That should be good for keeping a mash at temp and I think a regular relay would be fine also for less $

I have two of them already for my kegerator and ferm chamber, Im just wondering how to set it up to be able to handle the heatstick, and what kind of relay I would need. Any idea what I would need to do

I would use something like this

http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-purpose-power-relays/=gf53l9\

Here is an inexpensive AC SSR. I just never had a reason to use one.
FactoryMation SSR AC Not that much of a price difference. I'd use either one myself. The mechanical relay will be the cheapest option.

DaleHair said:

That is the one I have and the lowest set point difference is .3C or .54F, the difference between turning on an off, and a min off time of 1 minute. That should be good for keeping a mash at temp and I think a regular relay would be fine also for less $

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Minimum time off makes sense for cooling, but not for heating. I don't have one, just wondering.

wadefisher said:

Here is an inexpensive AC SSR. I just never had a reason to use one.
FactoryMation SSR AC Not that much of a price difference. I'd use either one myself. The mechanical relay will be the cheapest option.

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Yes, quoting myself. Electrical feedback may be more of an issue with the mechanical one.

Here is by far the cheapest one with electrical feedback suppression built in and 16 amp. I have the 10 amp same thing working in a process control unit. They are small and not too noisy. $13 can't beat it and you can buy a piece of 4" DIN rail for like $2.

So how would I wire this exactly?

on a side note I like your avatar

"Minimum time off makes sense for cooling, but not for heating. I don't have one, just wondering."

It has the same settings for heat and cool, I figured a 1 minute off time would not matter while trying to keep mash temp.

Adeering said:

So how would I wire this exactly?

on a side note I like your avatar

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Give me a little bit. Its easier than the first diagram.

sweet thanks for all the help, ive been shocked a few times working with electrical so im super cautious with making sure i do it right

For Review.

Double check your draw. 1650 watt at 110 is drawing 15 amps. you don't have much room to be wrong.

If you get that exact model of relay, Those pin outs should be labeled exactly as seen.

A1 and A2 are your coil. Using 11 and 14 you have a normally open switch. Using 11 and 12 you would have a normally closed switch, not what you want. But double check the diagram that comes with it or any other relay you get.

sweet thanks, since i already have the temp controller coming and the heating element, this will be a cheap solution to control my mash temp. And everything i have found on it says 1650W. Heres a link to the same kind I have (though i have removed all the built in controller stuff)

Fryer

I ordered one to play with. I know a lot of people use them. I have most things on PIDs

BTW;

Make sure you use 14 awg hookup wire minimum for the leads going to the heating element. 18 or 20 awg is fine for the rest of it.

Yeah was planning 14 awg, and have the part ordered and the temp controller is on the way, so once i waterproof the temp controller and wire this up ill give it a try this weekend when we brew and let you know how it goes