Getting Through the Hot Break?

Hi Guys,

Since I've gone all grain, I have really struggled getting through the hot break without a boilover. On my last batch, I tried Femcap S for the first time. While I was able to get through boil without a disaster, it still took a LOT of stirring and fighting the foam.

What am I doing wrong?

Relevant notes:

1. I have a 10 gallon pot...

2. My initial boil volume was 6.5 gallons (which, boils down to 5 gal. in 60 minutes).

3. At the start of the boil, I had 5.25" of free head space in my pot.

4. I probably added 16 drops of FemCap at various times during the boil. To be honest, it almost seemed like it had very little effect.

5. The beer under consideration has an OG of 1.060

6. I used hop pellets, steeped in a nylon bag. (Shift that bag around and watch out.)


Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated!

Hmm. You shouldn't be that close to boil over with the factors you posted. I too use a 10 gallon pot and I usually start with close to 7 gallons and I don't come too close to boil overs. For me it's about adjusting the flame near the hot break. I will rage the burner until I start to get a boil and then adjust it down a little to control the foam. I also stir the foam with my paddle and break it up and this helps a lot. This has always worked well for me.

I'm surprised the foam control hasn't worked for you either, especially that many drops!

Dude I boil 7+ gallons in an 8gallon pot without fermcap and I never boil over... obviously your burner is on too high.

Just take your time to get through the hot break. I leave my thermometer in the wort as I'm bringing it to boil so I know when I'm getting close (even though the slowly increasing foam is an indication). My burner is practically on full blast until it gets to about 205*. Then when I start to get a few bubbles breaking the surface, I'll back down to about half power. Then when the foam suddenly takes off, I'll cut the flame. Stir for just 30 seconds to let the proteins come together. Then turn the flame back on VERY LOW. I keep slowly stirring, pushing the foam around, and after about 5 minutes things have calmed down enough to achieve a normal boil.

THEN add your hops. I can't stand the sight of crusty hops burned to the side of my kettle and NOT in the boil. Add hops after the hot break.

Lodovico said:

I'm surprised the foam control hasn't worked for you either, especially that many drops!

Click to expand...

Me too!

I used to have near boilovers all the time- even 6 gallons in a keggle! But I started using Ferm-capS and it hasn't even come close.

What you can try is standing at the pot while it's getting that huge foamy head and adding drops of Ferm-cap while stirring until it stops. Usually, it's about 2 drops per gallon for me.

Also, as was already mentioned, add the hops AFTER the hot break and start your timer then.

Thanks guys... I'm wondering if the bottle of Ferm-capS that I got is too old or something. Does yours look like a white liquid with a high viscosity?

Pay close attention as you come to the boil, and when you start seeing your hops rumbling turn the heat down. I boil 3.5 gallons in a 4.25 gallon pot and have only had one boil over out of the last dozen batches. That was because I left the lid on and got caught up in a TV show.

I would say you are not tending your heat.. once you see the boil starting to happen. You will notice a bit of foam on top of the wort. Cut the heat a touch.. After you start boiling it takes a considerably small amount heat to keep it going from there.

Just how I go about it. I too have a 10 gallon kettle and shoot for about 7 gallons after the mash and sparge.

El_Exorcisto said:

because I left the lid on.

Click to expand...

ummm.... should not have a lid on.


I had my burner cranked on Monday and boiled over 7.5 gallons out of a keggle. I am usually less agressive at the actual break point.

At least I am not inside any more. I still owe my wife a new stove.

It is definitely a heat control issue. You shouldn't need Fermcap at all with your setup. I also boil 6.75 gallons in an 8 gallon pot, and I never boil over. Save yourself some money on Fermcap and propane by simply cutting back the heat.

+1 to all, has to be heat control issue, Fermcap and 7.5 gallons in a 8gallon pot and never close to a boilover.

Thanks all... I've concluded that it is a heat control issue. How do I know this? I haven't been cutting the heat at all. Duh.

Not sure why I've always done it like this... But, I tain't gonna do it any more!

Thanks!

You can add your Fermcap when you turn the burner on, but DON'T STIR UNTIL AFTER THE HOT BREAK.

I had the same issue the first time I used Fermcap, (I boil in a 30 qt. turkey fryer.)

The Fermcap forms a "protective skin" over the top of the wort. Stirring it negates this effect.

You may also want to turn the heat down a bit as suggested earlier.

Have you tried hitting the foam with a spray bottle to get through the break?

Conesus_Kid said:

The Fermcap forms a "protective skin" over the top of the wort. Stirring it negates this effect.
.

Click to expand...

Hmm, my experience is the opposite. I don't usually think to add Fermcap until I see hotbreak foam. A few drops in there and foam dies immediately right around the drops. Then a big stir and foam totally disapears.

Also, I don't think there is much chance for a "protective skin" on a volume of boiling liquid. The reason we control boil as we do is to maximize circulation and surface contact, right?

I have always added Fermcap as soon as I turn the heat on, and never stir.

2bluewagons said:

Hmm, my experience is the opposite. I don't usually think to add Fermcap until I see hotbreak foam. A few drops in there and foam dies immediately right around the drops. Then a big stir and foam totally disapears.

Also, I don't think there is much chance for a "protective skin" on a volume of boiling liquid. The reason we control boil as we do is to maximize circulation and surface contact, right?

Click to expand...

chefmike said:

ummm.... should not have a lid on.

Click to expand...

Leaving the lid on while bringing the wort up to a boil isn't a problem, it actually saves energy. DMS will still be boiled off once you take the lid off during the boil.

I've also heard that if you're an extract brewer, you can boil with the lid on and not have to worry about DMS since it was already addressed by the manufacturer of the extract...

Mischief_Brewing said:

Leaving the lid on while bringing the wort up to a boil isn't a problem, it actually saves energy. DMS will still be boiled off once you take the lid off during the boil.

I've also heard that if you're an extract brewer, you can boil with the lid on and not have to worry about DMS since it was already addressed by the manufacturer of the extract...

Click to expand...

+1 to both these comments

2bluewagons said:

Hmm, my experience is the opposite. I don't usually think to add Fermcap until I see hotbreak foam. A few drops in there and foam dies immediately right around the drops. Then a big stir and foam totally disapears.

Also, I don't think there is much chance for a "protective skin" on a volume of boiling liquid. The reason we control boil as we do is to maximize circulation and surface contact, right?

Click to expand...

Poor choice of words on my part. When you add the Fermcap before the break, you'll see what looks like a "foam cap" as the wort begins to boil beneath it.

I'll try the method you described next time to see if I notice a difference in how it works.

Just wanted to say thanks. Brewed a batch today and by cutting way back on the heat at the onset of the boil... I had no foaming problems whatsoever!

I'm surprised no one has mentioned kettle geometry. A tall, narrow kettle is far more susceptible to boiling over than a wide one. I use a tall 9 gallon kettle for small batches, and it's extremely easy to have a 4-5 gallon batch boil over, even with careful heat control. On the other hand, my 20 gallon kettle is very wide, and I can fill it almost completely without worrying much about boiling over, despite a very vigorous boil.