Type of propane regulator on AG system

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drayman86

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What type of regulator does everyone use on their AG gas systems where one tank is used in a plumbed system to feed two or more burners?

Out system has two 50,000 BTU burners (King Kooker), one for the hot liquor tank and one for the boil tank. We've plumbed up copper pipe to the burners, and have a needle valve to control each burner.

We originally installed a turkey fryer propane gas regulator on the propane tank that contains a red low pressure control valve. The performance of the system has been erratic lately, with the gas flow from the regulator fluctuating.

Question: since we have needle valves on each of the burners and only use one at a time, can we use a standard propane grill regulator that doesn't contain the red low pressure control valve? I'm thinking that since we already have a needle valve to control the flow of gas to the individual burners, the turkey fryer gas regulator with the red low pressure control knob is not needed, and may account for problems with gas flow.

Thanks for the view and replies. :mug:
 
I use a standard 10 psi regulator from a turkey fryer. I have it plumbed with ball valves to each burner. It works great with 1 going or all 3.

brew_stand_plumbing.JPG
 
Yup, thanks. You've got a high pressure regulator with a variable flow control knob.

We started having problems with ours during last Friday's brew session. The gas flow through the system began fluctuating, and fell off dramatically when the variable flow knob on the regulator was turned the full "on" position. We also have needle valves in line with our two burners.

Although the regulator is just a couple of months old and has only been used for 4-5 brew sessions, the regulator itself may be defective. It worked great the first couple of times out, but has started to "act up".

Also found information on the bypass safety feature of propane regulators on this page:

http://www.weber.com/bbq/pub/support/gasfaq.aspx#hotter

We'll try to "reset" the regulator system to see if that's the problem. If not, we'll replace it.
 
I'm no Hank Hill but I'd think 10 PSI would not be enough for 2 each 50,000 BTU burners. Nowdays most 50,000 BTU units come standard with 10 PSI regs.

I'd go for a 20 PSI or an adjustable 30 PSI.

Just looking at the picture of Lil Sparky's reg it looks a lot like an adjustable regulator rather than a fixed to me. As a rule, usually an adjustable reg has a knob on top of the regulator (just like the picture lil sparky posted) a fixed PSI reg will not have that knob on top.

That being said I'm sure there's an exception to every rule.
 
Thanks for the discussion, guys.

Decided to go with a 0-30 adjustable PSI regulator; ordered the first one on this page.

http://www.turkeyfryerexpress.com/store.asp?offset=70

I'm fairly certain that our regulator is defective. Shouldn't make any difference that we've got needle valves to control our burners and an adjustable regulator. Was thinking that there was a pressure "confusion" on the part of the regulator due to the adjustable valve at the regulator AND the needle valves, but I don't think this is the case. Fluctuating gas flow likely due to diaphragm problems in the regulator.
 
Low propane seems to lower the pressure too. I ran mine about dry last brew, and the bottom of the tank got icy, and flame lowered. I swapped to the nearly empty spare, and ran it 'til the same thing happened. Then, I swapped back to the now-thawed tank, and pitched my aroma hops. It ran well, just long enough.

I sure do like an adjustable reg. I use it to lower the flame as it nears boiling, and prevent boil over. Then, after skimming the gooey foam off that rises as it comes to a boil, I can adjust how fast a boil I want. Big red knob, but I don't know it's range.
 
Not sure if this is part of the problem, but I found that if I have my regulator already open and then open the tank's valve, my flow would be real low. First time it happened I thought I was running out of gas. I shut it all down, closed the regulator and tank valve. Then I opened the tank valve and then the regulator and it works fine that way.
 
JnJ said:
Not sure if this is part of the problem, but I found that if I have my regulator already open and then open the tank's valve, my flow would be real low. First time it happened I thought I was running out of gas. I shut it all down, closed the regulator and tank valve. Then I opened the tank valve and then the regulator and it works fine that way.


Right, thanks. I found a similar post on the Weber Grill FAQ about the safety bypass in the regulator. What you describe sounds similar, and the fix is nearly the same:

"Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the flow of gas in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be inadvertently activated in two ways, putting the grill into what is commonly called “bypass”. The first way for the device to be activated is to leave one or more burner control knobs in the “ON” position when the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to wait long enough to “start” the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve. The safety device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure equalizes between the closed burner control valve and the regulator, through the hose. If a burner control knob is turned on before the gas pressure can equalize, the device will remain in “bypass”. The length of time necessary to wait to “start” the grill after turning on the LP cylinder valve is dependent on the length of the hose and outside air temperature. It is always good practice to wait a few seconds after opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on the burner control knob to start the grill.

"Keep in mind that the safety device reacts to a gas leak. If a grill is in bypass the gas connections and hose should be tested for leaks with a soap and water solution.

"If the grill is in bypass, after checking for gas leaks do the following to get the grill out of bypass:
Cart Based Models

* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

"Weber Q 100 and 200 series with an adapter hose and the Q 300 series.

* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait at least 1 minute
* Turn the burner control knob to Hi/Start
* Press the igniter to light the burner
* Turn any remaining burner control knobs to High
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes.
 

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