110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

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Answers:
1) The switches are there to isolate the power being delivered to the kettle. The design is such that very minimal rewiring would be needed to convert the controller to a 240V system. No, it does not turn the element on. The PID controls the power being delivered to the element.

2) The PID controls the power to the element in manual mode & in temperature control mode.

3) Yes they will be off. However, keep in mind that if this controller is converted to 240V power, 120V of the power will be present at the elements even with the PID shut off unless switches 1 & 2 are turned off.

Hope this helps.

P-J

Thanks for the information P-J! Your electrical advice on this forum is making me consider building a basic control panel myself. :mug:

I now understand why you would want to put a switch on the element and the PID. When I build my own system it will be 240v so I should probably have a switch on the element to have the ability to cut off all the power to the element.
 
Here is the break down ..
Kettle
[*]24 Quart bayou classic stainless-stockpot.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTEQBK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
$68.05
[*] 2 elements
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EMERSON-APPLIANCE-SOLUTIONS-Electric-Replacement-2E754?Pid=search
$17.25 X2
[*]Weldless thermometer sight gauge kit
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=83
$25.95
[*] 2 Weldless Bulkhead Kit (one for ball valve one for one for lid recirculating)
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=178
$16.00 X2
[*]1/2" NPT STREET 90 elbow
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=120
$5.00
[*]1/2" NPT stainless steel 3 piece ball valve
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_57&product_id=128
$17.99
[*] 1 1/2" SS Camlock A Style Quick Disconnect
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=142
$4
[*] 1 1/2" SS Camlock C style fitting Quick Disconnect
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=135
$6.00
[*] 2 1/2" SS Camlock F style fitting Quick Disconnect
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=133
$4 X2

Total
201.5

Pump


[*]great breweh
http://greatbreweh.com/Beer_Pump.html
$69.00
[*]1/2" NPT SS 2 piece ball valve
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_57&product_id=62
$13.99
[*]1/2" SS Camlock A Style Quick Disconnect
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=142
$3.70
[*]1/2" SS Camlock F style fitting Quick Disconnect
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=133
$3.99

camonpump.jpg


Total 90.69

Control Panel



[*]Project box
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=143
$28.67
[*]PID
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
$45.50
[*]SSR
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30
$19.00
[*]Heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=244
$12.50
[*] 2 Contactor
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129
$16.00 X2
[*]E-stop
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=259
$6.99
[*]Push button switch x3
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=223
$11.98 X3
[*]Buzzer alarm
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_33&products_id=215
$7.86
[*]Alarm switch
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=236
$5.99
[*]Rtd sensor w deluxe cable
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=107
$34.00

Total $228.47

Miscellaneous part (wire plugs connectors so on)
Est: total $50.00

Sub Total 570.99

*****tax and shipping not included
***** rounded up in some cases so math may be little off

If you see anything i missed or any place to get supplies for cheaper please let me know
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You will need 2 ssr and heat sinks for 2 elements. Will be pretty tight fitting 2 into the auber project box.
 
You will need 2 ssr and heat sinks for 2 elements. Will be pretty tight fitting 2 into the auber project box.
Ha.! Now is your opportunity to call Suyi Liu, the owner of Auber Instruments (www.auberins.com) and ask for things that are needed for our community (like a larger project box?). He is an outstanding merchant and the owner of the business.

(Drop my name - I suggest 'stuff' all the time.)

P-J
 
Yeah, I thought about emailing him the same thing - a larger project box with the same pre-cut PID opening would be ideal. I'm making a pretty "simple" control panel with one PID for one kettle/element and the room runs out very quickly, especially if you are putting a contactor in there.
 
rack04 said:
What is the purpose of the flash buzzer and the alarm disable switch?

The PID has a built in alarm feature. You can set a high and/or low temp alarm. I use it to alert me when mash in temp is reached. The flash buzzer will blink and beep pretty loud. The switch next to it simply enables and disabled the flash buzzer. It's not a must have, but I'm glad I have it. Especially at its minimal cost.
 
thedude00 said:
The buzzer alarm will go off when you hit your mash temp and the disable switch is just for safety, if something starts to go wrong hit the switch and it will kill power to the control panel.

Ok I get the buzzer but the disable switch is still a mystery. I think what you are referring to is the e stop.
 
Ok I get the buzzer but the disable switch is still a mystery. I think what you are referring to is the e stop.
The alarm disable switch is there to shut off the alarm light/buzzer.

Without the switch in place, you need to change the values within the PID so that the conditions are no longer triggering the alarm. I really believe the switch is a much easier solution than reprogramming the PID on the spot.

Scenario: PID set for strike water temperature. Alarm set to trigger when temp is achieved. (Alarm goes off and a call out goes to you for attention while you are doing other stuff.) Flip the switch and continue with your brew process. Reset PID alarm values at your leisure later on and flip the switch to alert you again when the new event is achieved.

Oh well, I thought it was a good idea so I placed it in the diagram.

P-J
 
Scenario: PID set for strike water temperature. Alarm set to trigger when temp is achieved. (Alarm goes off and a call out goes to you for attention while you are doing other stuff.) Flip the switch and continue with your brew process.P-J

I am excited about this feature! I am planning on setting this kit right on my stove, underneath the venthood. I can already see myself watching football waiting for my strike water to heat up :D
 
Congratulations on the awesome build! I am currently in the "slowly amass bits a pieces" stage of a similar minded system (mash in separate vessel, vis-a-vis jkarp's countertop brutus) and since P-J is on a role with the :eek:nestar:fabulous:eek:nestar: wiring diagrams, I figure I'll try my luck at a blessing as well! ;)

As far as the electronics are concerned, everything would be the same minus the element power leg of the controls. (And using the Auber SYL-2362, but I dont think that changes anything)

I am wondering about the contactor used to switch the element's power. If the system was dedicated to 120V, would this Auber mini relay work for a 2000W element? Secondary to that question, I am planning a little addition on this build's control however. I would like to throw a horizontal float switch into the kettle to prevent dry firing should recirculation become poor and the kettle level drops. Because it has a low amperage switching capacity, I'm assuming it would have to connect to the coil of the relay/contactor. That said, I don't want the float switch to always have control, queue the three position switch!; Such that I can have element power off (says me regardless of anything else on the system), on/off (says the float), or on (says me regardless of float position).

To further complicate things, I am uncontrollably reverting back to my PC-mod days and really would like to have small panel mount LED indicators for things like system power, pump power, element power, and of course water level (do I smell a bicolor high low LED?). Unfortunately and shamefully, I have lost my electrical know-how since those days :(. I'm guessing the drastic change in amperage and voltage will require dusting off the breadboard and making a small project board that interfaces with the status of the control's switches/buttons to feed the diodes.

I would love to start a thread about this build once it gets a little momentum in the physical world. Any help to get the control portion materialized would be great! Thanks everyone, and again congrats on the successful build. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That makes sense. Is there somewhere that explains the pid setting options in manual and automatic?
 
I have received almost all the parts so far, minus the pump.

How long did it take for your pump to arrive after you ordered? I didn't even get a confirmation email from GreatBrewEh. I also emailed them yesterday and they haven't responded. I am hoping this comes in soon as I would will be looking forward to brewing!
 
Sorry for being a noob.. but with the 2 element set up.. i would be able to use those for a 5 gal all grain batch, one in the sparge and one in the boil?? obv 110 setup??
 
You would be able to do a larger batch (~6.5 gal boil) with the two elements in the boil kettle, but you would need two separate circuits to power each element independently; each element connects to different outlets on separate breakers.
 
jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

P-J you are quite a person to do that. Lots of good people here but a few seem to go above and beyond...such as yourself.

If I had a 'Nice Guy' award I would give it to you.

Ray
 
I have received almost all the parts so far, minus the pump.

How long did it take for your pump to arrive after you ordered? I didn't even get a confirmation email from GreatBrewEh. I also emailed them yesterday and they haven't responded. I am hoping this comes in soon as I would will be looking forward to brewing!

I bought my great brew eh pump from a member of this forum that had an extra for sale. I have read that their customer service has room for improvement, but everyone is receiving their pumps.
 
I have had several requests for the first diagram (page 1 on this thread) to have an added 2nd element for a 120V system.

So I spent some time making a drawing for that setup. Power is being fed from 2 seperate 20A 120V GFCI outlets. It includes E-Stop that will trip both GFCI outlets at once.

I hope this is of help to thedude00 and others that have requested it.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing all the best.

P-J


Thanks a million for the two element drawing P-J!! My only question (Sorry I am a newb to this) is with one PID, does it control both elements. For example if I set my Mash temp to 152, it will be firing both elements to achieve this temp. Then in Manual mode it will fire both elements to achieve my boil?
Dustin
 
Thanks a million for the two element drawing P-J!! My only question (Sorry I am a newb to this) is with one PID, does it control both elements. For example if I set my Mash temp to 152, it will be firing both elements to achieve this temp. Then in Manual mode it will fire both elements to achieve my boil?
Dustin
That is correct. You also have control over each element with switches 1 & 2. This allows you to have them both powered or just one or the other.
 
How do you go about keeping your bag off of the element? Or are you even concerned about it?

I use the paint strainer bags from lowes and they touch the element without issue, yet. My intentions were to use the basket that came with my pot but the lid doesn't sit flush with the basket in. I decided to try it without basket and it seems to work fine.
 
Awesome project! Caught my eye since it's on a 110v system, and got my brain thinking (which according to swmbo means uh-oh, project, money, and time lol).

I have a corner of a spare room in our place to take over, and using 1 pot instead of 3 would just be perfect for me. However, I did 1 extract kit so far and got kicked out of the kitchen, so would this be viable to mix the extracts, or would the heating element prevent doing that? Also, to provide the main 110v, did you cut an end off the extension cord you keep bringing up from an outlet, or did you "skip" the outlet and use the wire straight from a breaker?

Either way I'm already thinking of ways to implement a system like this since I just like doing tech related stuff. Woosh, back to the drawing board!!!
 
The extension cord plugs into the wall. I'm not real sure about the extracts, but I have read people using electric kettles to do extracts. Maybe someone who has done it can give more info.
 
I have everything put together finally and have one snag.

The contactor keeps buzzing loudly when turn the switch on for it. Any ideas on what I did wrong?

I am also wondering what the purpose of the contactor is? Seem like the button could go straight to the element?
 
jammin said:
I have everything put together finally and have one snag.

The contactor keeps buzzing loudly when turn the switch on for it. Any ideas on what I did wrong?

I am also wondering what the purpose of the contactor is? Seem like the button could go straight to the element?

Contactors buzz but I wouldn't really call it loudly. You can hear it though. Your probably ok. The contactor is needed because the switches aren't rated for the amps the element pulls.
 
I noticed you have the probe in the kettle as opposed to a T on the outflow. any chance this is causing you to over shoot your mash temps from dead spots? I know Kal has his hooked up through the T. That way you are reading the hottest liquid and can not overshoot. With the way you have it there is a possibility, especially with the grain bag that channeling could isolate some of the liquid by your probe. Thus the system is tricked into thinking it is at a lower temp and over heats.
 
If the contactor is buzzing really a lot of times it is because it is not screwed down tight enough. Then again some contactors just buzz louder than others (you did buy a new one I hope) as they get older they get a little noisier also. Here is a trick I picked up years ago, take a piece of foam (the gasket from a weatherproof outlet) and mount it underneath the contactor. Works like a charm to quiet it down.
grandequeso
 
Ya that's where I would start too. Make sure everything is tight. Are you getting good voltage to the element when the contactor engages?
 
I noticed you have the probe in the kettle as opposed to a T on the outflow. any chance this is causing you to over shoot your mash temps from dead spots? I know Kal has his hooked up through the T. That way you are reading the hottest liquid and can not overshoot. With the way you have it there is a possibility, especially with the grain bag that channeling could isolate some of the liquid by your probe. Thus the system is tricked into thinking it is at a lower temp and over heats.

My temps are spot on. Don't fluctuate at all. That's the reason for the pump. First couple of brews I monitored different spots in the kettle with my long dial therm. Spot on, don't bother anymore. Btw, I brewed an Irish red today, still loving this rig!

62c42d20d0c74b0747d5190f03b7cfa5.jpg
 
grandequeso said:
If the contactor is buzzing really a lot of times it is because it is not screwed down tight enough. Then again some contactors just buzz louder than others (you did buy a new one I hope) as they get older they get a little noisier also. Here is a trick I picked up years ago, take a piece of foam (the gasket from a weatherproof outlet) and mount it underneath the contactor. Works like a charm to quiet it down.
grandequeso

I went and checked the mounting. It feels pretty solid. I tightened the screws and it didnt help. The weird thing is, I can hold the contractor poles(?) down and it suppresses the buzzing/vibration. So the buzzing is definitely coming from the coil assembly.

It fell off my workbench onto the concrete floor. I have a feeling something broke loose.
 
jrb03 said:
Ya that's where I would start too. Make sure everything is tight. Are you getting good voltage to the element when the contactor engages?

The element heats up almost instantly if the contactor is buzzing or if I manually engage it. Power seems to be good. All screws are tight.
 
The element heats up almost instantly if the contactor is buzzing or if I manually engage it. Power seems to be good. All screws are tight.

You probably know this but don't ever dry fire one of these elements. Will burn out almost instantly. If it is as loud as a dryer alarm I'm thinking your on to something with the fall lol. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in. I will say I recently found contactors on amazon for like $5. I would probably order one at least as a backup. I got one for my A/C unit.
 
My temps are spot on. Don't fluctuate at all. That's the reason for the pump. First couple of brews I monitored different spots in the kettle with my long dial therm. Spot on, don't bother anymore. Btw, I brewed an Irish red today, still loving this rig!

Do you recirculate through the entire mash? What do you have on the outlet side of the pump inside the kettle to keep the splashing down?
 
Do you recirculate through the entire mash? What do you have on the outlet side of the pump inside the kettle to keep the splashing down?

Yes I recirculate the entire mash. I don't have anything on the outlet side. It shoots out and splashes and foams as some of my pictures show. I've thought about adding some hose or something but don't really see the need yet.
 
Well apparently contactors do not like being dropped on concrete. I replaced it this morning and it works as it should. Here is a shot of mine auto-tuning:



image-4158045159.jpg

Thinking about brewing a DFH 90 minute inspired beer for the first session.

My friend and I ordered all the parts and each built one of these. He brewed a Victory "Hop Devil" for his very first home brew and first brew on the kit. He boiled of .75 gallons over 90 minutes just as you do JRB. He also had ~ 75% efficiency as a total beginner.

I'm looking to brewing on this kit early next week!
 
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