Storing water filters between brew days

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IDrinkBr

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I was wondering what anyone would recommend in terms of storing water filters between brew days. I was thinking about opening up the housing, pulling the filter and letting it dry. It seems to me that leaving water in the filter housing, with the filter, in my basement for at least 2-3 weeks between brews is probably not the best of ideas.

Thoughts?
 
I don't know if this is the best way to do it, but I open the canister, dump the water, and set the filter and housing upside down on a small kitchen grate. I'm not sure what the grate was supposed to be originally, but I "acquired" it from one of the cabinets in the kitchen. SWMBO has seen me use it, but hasn't said anything. I'll leave it there until next brew day, at which time, I put it back together and run the water through it for a few minutes before using.
 
I don't know if this is the best way to do it, but I open the canister, dump the water, and set the filter and housing upside down on a small kitchen grate. I'm not sure what the grate was supposed to be originally, but I "acquired" it from one of the cabinets in the kitchen. SWMBO has seen me use it, but hasn't said anything. I'll leave it there until next brew day, at which time, I put it back together and run the water through it for a few minutes before using.

This is exactly what I do with my RO filters (3), except I keep them on a shelf that the wife gave me in the laundry room. I dismantle the whole system and store it in the cool AC until next use... My old single filter setup, I just drained and stored the whole thing in my deep freezer. I thawed it out before use. Actually it is still in the freezer today! I think this is a good practice if possible. Sits right next to my frozen Therminator in between uses.
 
Good, glad to hear that I'm not the only one. The second time I used it, I was afraid that it might be moldy, but looking at it I didn't see anything. I then ran the water for several minutes, then filled a clean glass to taste it. It tasted clean, so I decided that I was ok. I've been doing it the same way ever since.
 
I disassemble the housing, remove the cartridge and gaskets. Rinse everything well with tap water and let it all air dry on a tray with my other miscellaneous small accessories, such as air locks and stoppers. I'm pretty sure that the carbon block cartridge would require about six months to dry out completely and possibly much longer than that, but I also think that this is about the best we can do and better than leaving the cartridge submerged in the housing for long periods.
 
Solid Carbon Block Filters

This technology has combined the incredible adsorption capability of carbon discussed previously with the ability of a solid brick of material to selectively strain out particles from water forced through it. The density of the brick determines how finely the water is cleaned. The better brands of this type of filter have a three part filter and are designed to prevent any possibility of "bypass" due to high pressure failure.
The following list of features are what combine to create the type of filter that will remove the widest range of possible contaminants in the drinking water:


Mechanical straining: the block of carbon mechanically strains out dirt, sediment, rust, algae, bacteria, microscopic worms, cryptosporidia and asbestos. This is all accomplished by water pressure so no electricity is required -- such a filter even works on a simple hand pump in emergencies!

Chemical bonding: As explained earlier, activated carbon bonds to thousands of chemicals. In fact, carbon will bond to most chemicals known to man! When water is forced through the solid carbon block, it is forced to slow down and increase the contact time with the carbon, allowing the carbon bonding to take place to remove the chemical pollutants like toxics, pesticides, THM's, chlorine, bad tastes, odors, etc.
Health-providing trace minerals like dissolved calcium and magnesium do not bond to carbon and are allowed to pass through, thereby retaining the health quality and good taste of the water.

Heavy metals like lead do not bond to the carbon, but are strained out by the pore size of the block -- basically like trying to fit a basketball down a hole designed for a ping pong ball!!


Prevention of bacterial growth: Bacteria are strained out and remain on the outside of the carbon block. Therefore, because of the density and lack of oxygen and space inside the block, bacteria cannot breed in the medium and come out in the finished water.

Convenient: This type of system provides purified water on demand so there is no storage, nor running out at inconvenient times, no ordering bottles or picking bottles up from the store.

Inexpensive: This type of filter is a replaceable, self-clogging cartridge that lasts eight to 12 months (dependent on amount of sediment and dirt). The cartridge is designed to be replaced in minutes at home by the homeowner, just like screwing in a new light bulb. The cost of the units are relatively inexpensive -- over a ten-year period, the cost of the unit plus maintenance works out to a mere sixty bucks a year!! The cost of the water itself is from four to 8 cents per gallon. The units themselves are generally very easy to install and are designed to be a 45 minute installation for the handy homeowner or plumber. They can also be connected with refrigerators that have automatic icemakers and water dispensers so that all the water that a household consumes is purified!
The only drawback to solid carbon block systems is they will not remove nitrates or sulfides (byproducts of agricultural fertilization), and in these cases RO technology can take care of the problem. Nitrates and sulfides are found in relatively few areas however, so most consumers do not need to worry about them.


Salute! :mug:
 
Solid Carbon Block Filters

This technology has combined the incredible adsorption capability of carbon discussed previously with the ability of a solid brick of material to selectively strain out particles from water forced through it. The density of the brick determines how finely the water is cleaned. The better brands of this type of filter have a three part filter and are designed to prevent any possibility of "bypass" due to high pressure failure.
The following list of features are what combine to create the type of filter that will remove the widest range of possible contaminants in the drinking water:


Mechanical straining: the block of carbon mechanically strains out dirt, sediment, rust, algae, bacteria, microscopic worms, cryptosporidia and asbestos. This is all accomplished by water pressure so no electricity is required -- such a filter even works on a simple hand pump in emergencies!

Chemical bonding: As explained earlier, activated carbon bonds to thousands of chemicals. In fact, carbon will bond to most chemicals known to man! When water is forced through the solid carbon block, it is forced to slow down and increase the contact time with the carbon, allowing the carbon bonding to take place to remove the chemical pollutants like toxics, pesticides, THM's, chlorine, bad tastes, odors, etc.
Health-providing trace minerals like dissolved calcium and magnesium do not bond to carbon and are allowed to pass through, thereby retaining the health quality and good taste of the water.

Heavy metals like lead do not bond to the carbon, but are strained out by the pore size of the block -- basically like trying to fit a basketball down a hole designed for a ping pong ball!!


Prevention of bacterial growth: Bacteria are strained out and remain on the outside of the carbon block. Therefore, because of the density and lack of oxygen and space inside the block, bacteria cannot breed in the medium and come out in the finished water.

Convenient: This type of system provides purified water on demand so there is no storage, nor running out at inconvenient times, no ordering bottles or picking bottles up from the store.

Inexpensive: This type of filter is a replaceable, self-clogging cartridge that lasts eight to 12 months (dependent on amount of sediment and dirt). The cartridge is designed to be replaced in minutes at home by the homeowner, just like screwing in a new light bulb. The cost of the units are relatively inexpensive -- over a ten-year period, the cost of the unit plus maintenance works out to a mere sixty bucks a year!! The cost of the water itself is from four to 8 cents per gallon. The units themselves are generally very easy to install and are designed to be a 45 minute installation for the handy homeowner or plumber. They can also be connected with refrigerators that have automatic icemakers and water dispensers so that all the water that a household consumes is purified!
The only drawback to solid carbon block systems is they will not remove nitrates or sulfides (byproducts of agricultural fertilization), and in these cases RO technology can take care of the problem. Nitrates and sulfides are found in relatively few areas however, so most consumers do not need to worry about them.

This info appears to be from this site: http://pwn.com/guide.html#carbon block

While most of the information seems to be fairly accurate, I think some of it is nothing more than marketing B.S. as they are selling filters and filter systems. Not exactly an unbiased source IMO. OTOH, I use an extruded solid carbon block water filter and I'm very satisfied with it's performance, although I have no way of actually testing the filtered water myself, so this is nothing more than a purely subjective evaluation on my part. I have read that carbon filters won't remove chloramines, dissolved minerals, salts and more than a few other substances. The smaller under the counter type units that many of us use require a relatively slow flow rate in order to do a good job of filtering out the undesirables. This isn't usually a problem for us home brewers. I usually only filter at about 1 gpm or so. Using one of these relatively small filters for whole house water filtration would be a different thing entirely. You'd need a fairly hefty unit to provide a decent flow rate with adequate filtration.
 
If you have an ro membrane do not dry it out. They have to stay moist. Why bother pulling the filters apart anyways? If the housings are full of water and valved off you aren't going to get any contamination. Exposed filters risk mold and damage if they aren't in the housing.
 
This is a good question. I've always dried mine out, but was never sure if it was necessary or not. Would leaving it submerged in water do anything to it's life span? Or drying it for that matter?
 
Why bother pulling the filters apart anyways? If the housings are full of water and valved off you aren't going to get any contamination. Exposed filters risk mold and damage if they aren't in the housing.

I disagree on this. I once unintentionally left the filter in the housing for several weeks between brew sessions. Before using it again, I opened it up and found that what appeared to be mold or possibly algae of some kind accumulated on the outer polyester layer of my carbon block cartridge. So, it has been my experience that, indeed, stuff can and probably will grow in the stagnant water. Probably not a big deal, but the filter housing is far from a sterile environment. I'm more careful to remember to remove the cartridge between uses now in light of that discovery. I now routinely rinse and air dry the housing, cartridge and gaskets as a precaution.
 
Yeah, obviously there was no sunlight exposure, so it was probably a mold of some kind. Tap water is not sterile and I'm sure that it contains at least some tiny amounts of organic matter and this one of the reasons that I filter the water in the first place. All of the water must pass through the carbon block as there is no bypass, so I am confident that the filtered water is clean, but something slimy was definitely accumulating on the outer cover of the cartridge. I think I will stick with the rinse and dry routine.

The 4th bullet-ed item listed under "Important Information" on page 2 from the DOW link you provided says, "To prevent biological growth during prolonged system shutdowns, it is recommended that membrane elements be immersed in a preservative solution. Rinse out the preservative before use".

That seems to conflict with what you said.
 
Yeah, I seen that one on the dow sheet for the first time, but like 3 says they can't be dried out. I haven't had any luck on finding a mfg recommendation for sediment and carbon filters for storage after use. How long are you guys going between uses?
 
Why would you not want to filter your everyday drinking water?

You know that clear tasteless beverage that is hopless & maltless, I know someone besides me must drink some of it.

Since you boil your wort, it's actually more important to filter the water for everything else IMO. I use my RO filter for all drinking & cooking in addition to our favorite hobby.

RO membranes should be used several minutes a day according to the instructions with my system, keeping it in water shortens the life from what I can tell if it is not in use. Putting it in a preservative seems like a lot of work, in addition to the amount of water you need to run through it to flush out the preservative. With mine as I recall you need to run it for 20 minutes or more to flush.
 
I disagree on this. I once unintentionally left the filter in the housing for several weeks between brew sessions. Before using it again, I opened it up and found that what appeared to be mold or possibly algae of some kind accumulated on the outer polyester layer of my carbon block cartridge. So, it has been my experience that, indeed, stuff can and probably will grow in the stagnant water. Probably not a big deal, but the filter housing is far from a sterile environment. I'm more careful to remember to remove the cartridge between uses now in light of that discovery. I now routinely rinse and air dry the housing, cartridge and gaskets as a precaution.

Gotta agree with Catt on this... I have had some pretty moldy filters here in Texas... They seem much happier dry in the cool house. I will say that freezing them for storage seems great too. I have done that for years with no ill effect.
 
Gotta agree with Catt on this... I have had some pretty moldy filters here in Texas... They seem much happier dry in the cool house. I will say that freezing them for storage seems great too. I have done that for years with no ill effect.

+1. You're basically creating a petri dish with a closed, undisturbed environment. Unless there's a high level of some kill-chemical, i.e. chlorine or iodine, you're gonna have problems.
 
Gotta agree with Catt on this... I have had some pretty moldy filters here in Texas... They seem much happier dry in the cool house. I will say that freezing them for storage seems great too. I have done that for years with no ill effect.

I've often thought about the possible consequences of freezing a carbon block filter. My concern is that the water retained within the carbon matrix would expand when frozen and burst or enlarge the pores or whatever the channels in the carbon are called and render it less effective. That's the main reason I've avoided the freezing method.
 
+1. You're basically creating a petri dish with a closed, undisturbed environment. Unless there's a high level of some kill-chemical, i.e. chlorine or iodine, you're gonna have problems.

IIRC, some of the filters are treated with a type of a silver compound which is supposed to inhibit bacterial growth. I don't know anything more about it though; just something I came across when choosing a cartridge initially.
 
Yeah, I seen that one on the dow sheet for the first time, but like 3 says they can't be dried out. I haven't had any luck on finding a mfg recommendation for sediment and carbon filters for storage after use. How long are you guys going between uses?

My between use time span varies considerably. I typically brew two or three times a month, but there have been times when I could not brew for several months at a time for one reason or another. I hate it when I do that.:D
 
Why would you not want to filter your everyday drinking water?

Mostly because my tap water tastes just fine and I trust the treatment plant. I've had some training in water and waste water operations and standards, so I have no fear of drinking tap water. I think it may actually be safer and of higher quality than the bottled water I see a lot of people buying and drinking. I could probably skip filtering the brewing water with no ill effects, but it's really not much trouble and offers some protection against potentially elevated chlorine levels etc which can occur when repairs are made to water mains and such. I can dump a glass of water if it doesn't taste right, but I don't want to have to dump a batch of beer if I can avoid it. It's cheap insurance to filter the brewing water.
 
I've often thought about the possible consequences of freezing a carbon block filter. My concern is that the water retained within the carbon matrix would expand when frozen and burst or enlarge the pores or whatever the channels in the carbon are called and render it less effective. That's the main reason I've avoided the freezing method.

I had thought the same thing... That was some time ago when I was sending my filtered water in to Ward Labs for testing. I have not had a problem freezing my cheapy orange borg filters... Of course now I use RO as a few years ago I moved closer to the water here by Galveston. The water profile here is unusable for brewing. I don't freeze my RO filters for just that reason, especially the RO filter itself... I would imagine the thing would pop!
 
Who's on well vs city water? We've got decent city water, so we may be lucky and not have mold issue. Our water treatment and tower is a couple blocks down the road and I get a report each year listing the parameters of their "average" water sample. Next time I'm dropping the bill off I'll see if I can grab one of the guys to get their thoughts on the filters and not using them continuously. I've always understood that if water is chlorinated properly and there is sufficient residual chlorine in the water supply that it should remain until exposed to atmosphere. If it's sealed in pipes or a housing I didn't think it would off gas. Maybe the residual is for cleaning up whats in the system or our homes? Who's the water treatment tech in here?

samc is right on running the ro for as long as possible as with short uses it allows more of the junk to permeate through the membrane each time it cycles instead of being rinsed out in the waste stream. I can watch my ro go from 20-25 for the first 2-3 minutes down to 0-5 after a few minutes.

In regards to the tds for the reef I can sample it in the incoming water, out of the ro into the di, and final product water. 100-150 is what we have at the tap, 0-5 out of the ro, and 0 out of the di is what I get when everything's tuned up. Anything above 5 out of the ro and it's time for a new one and above 1 is when the di gets regenerated. In a closed reef you're dealing with the constant accumulation of junk in the water, so the purest replacement water keeps you ahead of the ball.
 
Mostly because my tap water tastes just fine and I trust the treatment plant. I've had some training in water and waste water operations and standards, so I have no fear of drinking tap water. I think it may actually be safer and of higher quality than the bottled water I see a lot of people buying and drinking.

I have a very good friend that lives down the road that talked to be about all this as well. Got me over my fears of tap water so to speak. Some may recall her name. Ginger Wotring. She wrote the water portion for the BJCP Exam Study Guide...
 
My between use time span varies considerably. I typically brew two or three times a month, but there have been times when I could not brew for several months at a time for one reason or another. I hate it when I do that.:D

See you'd save yourself all the work of screwing with the filters if you just brewed more ;)
 
IIRC, some of the filters are treated with a type of a silver compound which is supposed to inhibit bacterial growth. I don't know anything more about it though; just something I came across when choosing a cartridge initially.

Silver works, but only locally; i.e. within the filter matrix. Then there's the question of "what kind" of silver; is it dusted on, is it part of the fiber, etc.

In any case, silver in the filter does nothing for the water surrounding it.
 
Gotta agree with Catt on this... I have had some pretty moldy filters here in Texas...

Just checked the whole-house filter attached to my rig, no mold or algae. It's been installed for 8+ months in a 90+F garage and I brew every 2 - 3 weeks on average.

Unless I have a special filter, it appears the "mold/algae threat" is a bit exaggerated. It's certainly a good idea to inspect your filter periodically, but it's overkill to remove and dry the filter after every brew. ;)
 
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