urbanmyth
Well-Known Member
Anybody planning a barleywine or the like to brew soon and drink on December 20th as the world ends? I have a mead conditioning right now, but I would love to try my hand at a barleywine.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Urbanmyth....
I did the exact same thing last week!
I plan on telling SWMBO every brew I make is for the end of the world. I'm going to milk this brew day excuse for all it's worth.
So if its a great beer, your best ever, and the world ends the next day, would you be happy that you brewed your best beer, or be pissed that you won't be able to enjoy it anymore?
i'll be too busy unloading rounds on the devil and his horses to put too much thought into it, but i'll be sure to take a few bottles to hell with me.
I have decided on a SMaSH English Barleywine with Maris Otter and East Kent Goldings (I know I stated I can only do extract, but I am buying a 10 gallon Igloo cooler this week to do AG). Also, I am going to try and brew a small beer, perhaps an ESB with EKG and Fuggles, from the second runnings. Maybe I'll keep that one a SMaSh, too. Would be interesting to show friends how the same four ingredients can be made into two completely different beers...
Anyway, this is what I am thinking for two five gallon batches of SMaSH barleywine and ESB:
15 pounds of Maris Otter gives me an OG of 1.075. From the tables here: BT - Parti-Gyle Brewing
I can extrapolate a "big" beer of 1.100 and a "small" beer of 1.050, both of which are right in the wheel houses for barleywine and ESB, respectively.
So, starting with a 1.100 barleywine, I shall follow this hop schedule:
2 oz EKG at 60 mins
1 oz EKG at 45 mins
1 oz EKG at 30 mins
1 oz EKG at 5 mins
Plan to use Safale 04 with a 2 liter starter.
For the ESB, starting with 1.050 or wort,
2 oz EKG at 60 mins
1 oz EKG at 5 mins
This puts both beers right on style. I am looking for anybody with partigyle experience to critique this approach. I want to brew these beers by the middle of February, so the barleywine has a good long time to age on some bourbon soaked oak chips.
Good luck with the bitter. One thing I would recommend, as I have done partigyles before, is to keep some DME on hand incase the bitter's gravity is too low.
Also, what kind of mash temp am I looking at for each running? Just the standard 155ish for 60 mins for both?
Also, what kind of mash temp am I looking at for each running? Just the standard 155ish for 60 mins for both?
Okay, so the more I think about this, the more confused I get. Do I plan the grain bill around doing only 5 gallons (assuming I do two 5 gallon beers), or do I plan a 10 gallon grain bill. Part of me says the first way works, but another part of me says I am a simpleton who underthinks things.
Any insight?
You want a 5 gal grain bill for a big big beer. I forget if you said an OG but go for around 1.09+ in my opinion. Then after you get your first runnings collected (enough for a 5 gal batch of barleywine), you will resparge to get the next batch by collecting all the sugars that are still in the mash tun. There will be alot left over since you are aiming for such a high OG. I don't really know of a way to calculate what your gravity of your small beer will be. You can add more grain on top of your mashed grains and remash for your small beer if you want too, but I like the idea of just using the leftovers. Adding more almost seems like cheating to me, haha.
Ohhhh! I definitely need to brew a beer for the end of the world! Great idea!
urbanmyth said:Even if I mash thin (1.25 quarts/lb), I will still be short of 5 gallons for the boil (~4.7 gallons in strike water). Topping this with water seems to me wrong - if I top off with water, my OG will be lower than if I sparged the grainbed. On the otherhand, even if I mash thick for the 10 gallon grain bill (1.00 quarts/lb) I still get 7.5 gallons to boil down, without my OG suffering.
Only thing is, doubling the grain bill doesn't seem to be the huge money saver this was historically.
I'm with you, though. No topping off the grain bed. This is intended to be my attempt at simplest, most economic way of getting two beers to bottle. I really, REALLY like the idea of showing my non-beer nerd friends how the exact same grains, the exact same hops, water and yeast can be manipulated into two completely different brews.
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