New electric build.

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rex

rex

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I've been planning my build for a few months and now finally have most of the parts and I'm ready to go.

Single tier stand with two 50L sanke kegs.
HLT has two 120V 2000W elements installed
I have two separate 20A circuits in my garage
Both kegs have valves installed
I have a PID
I have two 40A SSR's with heatsinks
I have two pumps
I have switches, wire, etc

I want to control it all similar to this.

Auberin-wiring1-a4-simple-1.jpg


But I want to also add an E stop and a main on/off keyed switch

Anyone out there who can help me with the final diagram?

Thanks!
 
I like the simplicity of these (btbonser's included) and am probably going to do something similar in the near future. Do you have a link to where you found that diagram? (BTW: I feel like there should be a PJ Diagram sticky out there with links to all his designs).

What kind of switches are you planning on using for this? I was looking at another diagram with switches that weren't rated high enough for this so a contractor was needed which I want to avoid.

Edit: In regards to the switches I was talking about that 110v recirculating eBIAB thread which I see you've commented on.
 
inhousebrew said:
I like the simplicity of these (btbonser's included) and am probably going to do something similar in the near future. Do you have a link to where you found that diagram? (BTW: I feel like there should be a PJ Diagram sticky out there with links to all his designs).

What kind of switches are you planning on using for this? I was looking at another diagram with switches that weren't rated high enough for this so a contractor was needed which I want to avoid.

Edit: In regards to the switches I was talking about that 110v recirculating eBIAB thread which I see you've commented on.
Click to expand...


http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-simple-1-s.jpg
 
I would add a single 110v AC contactor to enable the hot line on both 110v phases and put the keyed On/Off switch and the e-stop in series with the hot connection on the contactor coil.

The way switch #1 and switch #2 are wired they need to handle the full 110v 20amp load. At HD or lowes can find standard light switches rated for 20-30amps. I have also used some of the NKK heavy duty toggle switches that would work (nkkswitches.com).
 

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