Heatstick = awesome!

I am moving into the world of full boils and AG brewing. Was thinking about going with a typical turkey fryer type set up. Instead I built a heatstick and simply use it to boost the btu of my gas range. Now I can boil 7+ gal no problem and it only cost me a 40 dollar investment. So happy with this that I am writing off gas burner for ever.

Pics to follow but it looks identical to the ceedarcreek heatstick build. I am a total electric brewing convert.

details details!

How to Build an Electric Homebrewing Heatstick.
http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm

Yea me too, love the sticks. I own a nice propane burner but don't even bother with it. I use two @ 2000watts in my basement. I boil 9 gallons no problem.

was it difficult to build?

wilserbrewer said:

Yea me too, love the sticks. I own a nice propane burner but don't even bother with it. I use two @ 2000watts in my basement. I boil 9 gallons no problem.

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This must be in an insulated boil pot or keggle with your 4KW of heating or 13,657 BTU of heat energy applied to your 9 gallons. How many degrees a minute increase did you record? My plan is to boil 18-19 1/2 gallons with 11KW (240 volt) or 37,558 BTU of heat energy in a insulated boil keggle. This allowing 15 gallons net for my corny's with one brewing session.

UnaBonger said:

was it difficult to build?

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Quite the contrary. It was easy and after I got home from home depot I was done with it in about an hour or so.

Sorry no pics yet but it really does look exactly like the one in the link above.

BrewBeemer said:

How many degrees a minute increase did you record?

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Sorry Beemer, I don't keep detailed records, I brew for fun. My 4000w will bring 9 gal post sparge to a boil in 20-30 minutes or so. I used to wrap the kettle w/ a blanket, but lately I don't bother. I think the heat lost through steam is far greater than the uninsulated kettle. I would think 11kw will boil 18-19 easily???

I went with a right angle heat stick and it was a good investment. It got me OUT of the kitchen permantly.

I used to heat mash and sparge water on several pots on our ceramic electric stove... way inefficeint and took a long time.

I use the heatstick to bring my mash water up to temp and while mashing heat the sparge water.

After that it helps bring the wort to a boil real quick to suplement my propane burner.

HSM said:

I went with a right angle heat stick and it was a good investment. It got me OUT of the kitchen permantly.

I used to heat mash and sparge water on several pots on our ceramic electric stove... way inefficeint and took a long time.

I use the heatstick to bring my mash water up to temp and while mashing heat the sparge water.

After that it helps bring the wort to a boil real quick to suplement my propane burner.

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looks pretty simple, which plans did you use for this?

i never concidered something like this. i use propane outside but this looks interesting.

I have propane and dont mind it, should i concider switching to this?

Anybody done any calculations on the cost to operate a heat stick versus the cost of using propane? The heatstick seems like a cool idea, but I already have a propane burner that brings me a 7-8 gallon boil pretty quickly (not sure, maybe 15 minutes?). So, I guess the biggest thing for me would be whether, dollar for dollar, the heatstick would be cheaper to use than the propane. Of course this will all have to do with the costs of electricity, amount of propane used (and cost per tank), etc., so there probably isn't a "final" answer. So, putting my question another way: how much electricity do these things really use to bring an average 6-7-8 gallon pot to a boil? Any thoughts or ideas?

Just a for instance calculation.

calculated kilowatts X electric rate X hours.

4500 watt

4.5kw X .09 (9 cent per kilowatt) X 1 hours = $0.405 per hour

Pretty cheap.

I can run my entire electric brew rig for a full session for $1.13. That is heating strike water, running the HERMS, pump and 90 minute electric boil.

Pretty cheap.

It used to cost me $16 to fill my propane tank. I would have to get 14 sessions out of a single propane tank for propane to EQUAL what it costs to run electric.

Man, I'm going to have to look into building one of these. I've been considering my options for the upcoming winter. Im on the 12th story of an apartment building overlooking Lake Erie. Lets just say its not the best place to brew on a cold winter day.

I was considering smaller 3 gallon batches on my stove. This might just do the trick though!

HSM said:

I went with a right angle heat stick and it was a good investment. It got me OUT of the kitchen permantly.

I used to heat mash and sparge water on several pots on our ceramic electric stove... way inefficeint and took a long time.

I use the heatstick to bring my mash water up to temp and while mashing heat the sparge water.

After that it helps bring the wort to a boil real quick to suplement my propane burner.

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wow, I really like the idea of using the elbow pipe at the top so you can just hook it over your brew kettle. Mine is just straight but I didn't have any problems with the heating element resting on the bottom of the kettle. Still, I like yours and will probably do something like that when I make my second.

Edcculus said:

Man, I'm going to have to look into building one of these. I've been considering my options for the upcoming winter. Im on the 12th story of an apartment building overlooking Lake Erie. Lets just say its not the best place to brew on a cold winter day.

I was considering smaller 3 gallon batches on my stove. This might just do the trick though!

Click to expand...

Perhaps consider building two.

I have a really cool spreadsheet that I got from This Site, but I can't seem to find it there anymore. It calculates the time required to heat the water as well as the cost, once you enter the required information. Maybe he is in the middle of transferring it over to his new site.

A quick Yahoo search did find it Here. I just thought that I would credit the guy that I believe wrote the spreadsheet. I believe he is active on the Northern Brewer forums, and that may be where I initially got the spreadsheet.

If you don't have Excel, download OpenOffice, It can open excel files.

So, I finally have a picture of the heatstick I built. Like I said above, it looks just like the one here: http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm

I wanted to mention something else for those of you thinking about building one. I am by no means a savvy person when it comes to electricity. I don't know very much about it but had no problem building this. Just follow the instruction and make sure you read all of his tips and warnings, TWICE!.

Here it is:

NNatic said:

I have propane and dont mind it, should i concider switching to this?

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Absolutely IMO...I have a beautiful propane burner, that has been gathering dust for two years now. Electric elements allow me to brew in my basement 10' from where I ferment.

Electric brewing :rockin:

BackBayBrewing said:

So, I finally have a picture of the heatstick I built. Like I said above, it looks just like the one here: http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm

I wanted to mention something else for those of you thinking about building one. I am by no means a savvy person when it comes to electricity. I don't know very much about it but had no problem building this. Just follow the instruction and make sure you read all of his tips and warnings, TWICE!.

Here it is:

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Backbay, are you running that off 120V? What kind of circuit are you running it off?

That is def. 120VAC, looks like 120VAC and 20A circuit

The Pol said:

That is def. 120VAC, looks like 120VAC and 20A circuit

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That's what I was thinking (based on the plug). What about wattage? I don't assume I can use the 5500 watt element I have in the garage? That would be about 45A right?

Acidjazz54 said:

That's what I was thinking (based on the plug). What about wattage? I don't assume I can use the 5500 watt element I have in the garage? That would be about 45A right?

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Well, the 5500W element running on 120VAC would produce 1373W.

1373W at 120VAC would be about 12A.

If you used the 5500W element with 240VAC, then you would be at 23A.

Wow. My calcs were way off. I was going with P = V X I. Where did the 1373 come from?

Acidjazz54 said:

Wow. My calcs were way off. I was going with P = V X I. Where did the 1373 come from?

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If you run a 240VAC element on 120VAC, you will only have 25% of the wattage produced. That is 1373W at 120VAC.

Your 5500W element is a 240VAC element. It will not produce 5500W at 120VAC, only 1373W.

Cool thanks. Looks like I need to brush on my electrical knowledge.

Acidjazz54 said:

Cool thanks. Looks like I need to brush on my electrical knowledge.

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No biggie, I have good reason to know.

HSM said:

I went with a right angle heat stick and it was a good investment. It got me OUT of the kitchen permantly.

I used to heat mash and sparge water on several pots on our ceramic electric stove... way inefficeint and took a long time.

I use the heatstick to bring my mash water up to temp and while mashing heat the sparge water.

After that it helps bring the wort to a boil real quick to suplement my propane burner.

Click to expand...

One question. Hopefully HSM can tell me what that grey looking stuff is that's on the nut holding the element. I'm curious as to what kind of sealant that is, and if it's rated for high temps, and is it safe for foodstuff.

the_Roqk said:

One question. Hopefully HSM can tell me what that grey looking stuff is that's on the nut holding the element. I'm curious as to what kind of sealant that is, and if it's rated for high temps, and is it safe for foodstuff.

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JB Weld.... unmistakeable

The Pol said:

JB Weld.... unmistakeable

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Pol, I figured you would probably know. That's a good thing. Just how foodsafe is the JB weld in boiling wort? Any aftertastes? Or anything noticeable?

the_Roqk said:

Pol, I figured you would probably know. That's a good thing. Just how foodsafe is the JB weld in boiling wort? Any aftertastes? Or anything noticeable?

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I dont have it in mine wort or water... so, I dunno.

I do know that after it cures, it has a slippery oily like film on it. BUT I have used boiling water to help cure it (exothermic reaction) and it left the JB clean, no more oily surface. So, I suspect it cleans off and leaves nothing behind, I see a lot of ppl use it.

The Pol said:

I dont have it in mine wort or water... so, I dunno.

I do know that after it cures, it has a slippery oily like film on it. BUT I have used boiling water to help cure it (exothermic reaction) and it left the JB clean, no more oily surface. So, I suspect it cleans off and leaves nothing behind, I see a lot of ppl use it.

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So, I'm SWAG-ging to say that when it finally cures it will have a "plastic" finish that should be odorless and tasteless like most plastics after a good cleaning. Seems logical enough. Thanks.

the_Roqk said:

So, I'm SWAG-ging to say that when it finally cures it will have a "plastic" finish that should be odorless and tasteless like most plastics after a good cleaning. Seems logical enough. Thanks.

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Yes, that is my thought. I basically use JB for electrical connection potting. I have seen it used many times IN boiling wort and water, so I presume (stupid me) that means it is good to go

It is basically a very high temp epoxy.

Roqk,

IMO there is no point in using so much JB weld on the outside of the stick. I seal up the sticks internally w/ JB weld. The threads and element can be sealed from the inside whereby almost none of the sealant is in contact w/ the wort.

wilserbrewer said:

Roqk,

IMO there is no point in using so much JB weld on the outside of the stick. I seal up the sticks internally w/ JB weld. The threads and element can be sealed from the inside whereby almost none of the sealant is in contact w/ the wort.

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I suppose it could be just as beneficial just to make sure the threads are sealed properly and not goop the JB-weld all over the nut. But, if a lot of other homebrewers have not had a problem with odor or taste and have boiled many times with the heat-sticks. Then I would say I'm satisfied. The reason I'm asking these questions and getting off topic, is that I plan to go all electric next year. Trying to get my homework in so that the transition is smooth. Thanks for the reply.

the_Roqk said:

I suppose it could be just as beneficial just to make sure the threads are sealed properly and not goop the JB-weld all over the nut. But, if a lot of other homebrewers have not had a problem with odor or taste and have boiled many times with the heat-sticks. Then I would say I'm satisfied. The reason I'm asking these questions and getting off topic, is that I plan to go all electric next year. Trying to get my homework in so that the transition is smooth. Thanks for the reply.

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You can easily mount the element in the kettle, no heatstick required.

The Pol said:

You can easily mount the element in the kettle, no heatstick required.

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Yes, I know.

Hence your thread: BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion. Very good write up and advice. Thanks again.

Reason i don't like a tube of JB all over the heatstick is that after a few boils it starts to show its age and gets kind of nasty...that's all, I'm told that cured epoxy is inert, but eventually it looks foul and will chip off. W/ proper workmansip you don't need to see any JB.

I have thought about mounting the element in my kettle, but the simplicity of using the same element in the HLT, MT and Kettle is the route I've chosen.

Heatsticks are pretty much for the "less is more" type mentality...Pol, your not the target audience, that's a compliment!

The Pol said:

That is def. 120VAC, looks like 120VAC and 20A circuit

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That plug is only rated for 15amps. A 120v 20 amp plug has a horizontal neutral prong.


I am going to make one for my HLT, but ill go with a 240v setup since i all ready have it for my table saw and air compressor. which looks like this.