RIMS for Dummies

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Reelale said:
Guy, could you explain this? My element, the one in your parts list, has what appears to be almost a chrome plating. A scrubby won't begin to take it off. I don't like the idea of wort coming in contact with zinc. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I soaked it vinegar for a bit. It looks like chome but it is actually zinc.
 
klyph said:
I try to keep the cold side as "sanitary" as possible. It just doesn't seem like running infectable wort through the RIMS tube is the best plan. It will probably work and you likely will never have an infection problem, but why set it up that way?
Click to expand...

Makes sense. I have my RIMS attached to my pump with a tri-clover fitting. Everything is pumped through it, hot and cold. Might have to look into a cross or a tee with another valve.

Sawdustguy said:
I soaked it vinegar for a bit. It looks like chome but it is actually zinc.
Click to expand...

Straight vinegar? How long? From some of the previous posts, it looks like starsan or PBW would work too.
 
Now I'm as confused as ever. This is from plumbingsupply.com

Incoloy is a type of extra high-grade stainless steel that helps extend the life of the element, resists burnout and the effects of lime over time. For these elements, incoloy pertains to the element coil, not the threaded base of the elements. Non-incoloy element coils are copper on the inside with a nickel plating on the outside. The threaded bases on all of these elements are made of zinc-plated carbon steel.

Nickel is not zinc. My element looks as shiny now as the day I took it out of the package. It's a Camco element. The base, as noted above is zinc-plated. Am I wrong in assuming it's perfectly fine for use in a RIMS tube?
 
Sawdustguy,

Is incoloy the way to go if your going to purchase a element? What type of heating element are you using in your tri-clover rimstube you made? Thats your primary RIMS tube correct? The RIMS tube you made for this thread, you don't use anymore?

For the people that have heating elements, can you post what type it is and where you got? Maybe a quick review?
 
pola0502ds said:
Sawdustguy,

Is incoloy the way to go if your going to purchase a element? What type of heating element are you using in your tri-clover rimstube you made? Thats your primary RIMS tube correct? The RIMS tube you made for this thread, you don't use anymore?

For the people that have heating elements, can you post what type it is and where you got? Maybe a quick review?
Click to expand...

Absolutely, incoloy is the way to go if your going to purchase a element. I use an incoloy element now.
 
Reelale said:
Now I'm as confused as ever. This is from plumbingsupply.com

Incoloy is a type of extra high-grade stainless steel that helps extend the life of the element, resists burnout and the effects of lime over time. For these elements, incoloy pertains to the element coil, not the threaded base of the elements. Non-incoloy element coils are copper on the inside with a nickel plating on the outside. The threaded bases on all of these elements are made of zinc-plated carbon steel.

Nickel is not zinc. My element looks as shiny now as the day I took it out of the package. It's a Camco element. The base, as noted above is zinc-plated. Am I wrong in assuming it's perfectly fine for use in a RIMS tube?
Click to expand...

It's possible I bought an old element. Mine was definetely zinc plated. It is possible they don't make them that way anymore. A nickel plated element should be fine.
 
pola0502ds said:
Sawdustguy,

Is incoloy the way to go if your going to purchase a element? What type of heating element are you using in your tri-clover rimstube you made? Thats your primary RIMS tube correct? The RIMS tube you made for this thread, you don't use anymore?

For the people that have heating elements, can you post what type it is and where you got? Maybe a quick review?
Click to expand...
I use a camco 1500 W 110VAC element from Plumbingsupply.com
Sawdustguy said:
It's possible I bought an old element. Mine was definetely zinc plated. It is possible they don't make them that way anymore. A nickel plated element should be fine.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks.
 
Yeah, I can't find an 1500w 120v incolony elements. The ones that are out there are zinc or nickel plated. If anyone knows of any, let me know.
 
klyph said:
I try to keep the cold side as "sanitary" as possible. It just doesn't seem like running infectable wort through the RIMS tube is the best plan. It will probably work and you likely will never have an infection problem, but why set it up that way?
Click to expand...

Klyph, I've been thinking about this a bit the last couple of days. I have one of Derrin's RIMS tubes. It's connected to my pump with tri-clover to 1/2" FPT. I pump boiling hot wort through the complete system; hoses, pump, RIMS, and chiller for 15 minutes prior to flame-out. I see no more discernible difference in this tube, as far as sanitation problems, as I do in the combination of pump, hoses, and/or the chiller. The thermocouple and PID also serve as an in-line monitor for wort cooling which is handy since I whirlpool back to the BK. Is it the element that makes you leery of sanitation?
 
Reelale said:
Klyph, I've been thinking about this a bit the last couple of days. I have one of Derrin's RIMS tubes. It's connected to my pump with tri-clover to 1/2" FPT. I pump boiling hot wort through the complete system; hoses, pump, RIMS, and chiller for 15 minutes prior to flame-out. I see no more discernible difference in this tube, as far as sanitation problems, as I do in the combination of pump, hoses, and/or the chiller. The thermocouple and PID also serve as an in-line monitor for wort cooling which is handy since I whirlpool back to the BK. Is it the element that makes you leery of sanitation?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the hijack, but how do you recirculate without killing the boil? It seems every time I try this with my CFC, the boil stops.

Thanks!
 
tasq said:
Sorry for the hijack, but how do you recirculate without killing the boil? It seems every time I try this with my CFC, the boil stops.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It kills it momentarily, but kicking-up the flame to the bk starts it up again pretty darn fast.
 
I suppose a sanitary tri clamp RIMS tube would be of little concern. I say do it, you'll probably still be more sanitary than my setup.
 
klyph said:
I suppose a sanitary tri clamp RIMS tube would be of little concern. I say do it, you'll probably still be more sanitary than my setup.
Click to expand...


Already have, about 5 batches so far! I was just wondering what your reservations were. I did just order a cap, so I can drop the element out, cap the end, and recirculate.
 
I guess I don't know what my reservations were, I have an element in my electric kettle, and I use an immersion chiller, so I'm basically doing the same thing.
 
Back to the subject of heating elements.

Check out this Rheem stainless steel heating element that is 120v, 2000 watts, LWD.

What do you think of this, will this work? This seems to be the cats meow. I have been searching and search and couldn't find anything 120v LWD.
 
pola0502ds said:
Back to the subject of heating elements.

Check out this Rheem stainless steel heating element that is 120v, 2000 watts, LWD.

What do you think of this, will this work? This seems to be the cats meow. I have been searching and search and couldn't find anything 120v LWD.
Click to expand...

link?
 
Might give plumbingsupply.com a phone call. IIRC, the ELD 120vac element is incoloy.
 
pola0502ds said:
I'm just wondering if 2000 watts is to much for a RIMS tube.
Click to expand...

2000watts should not be a problem for a RIMS tube (obviously you will need temp control)... I use a 1500watt element simply so I can run it, if needed, on a 15amp circuit. 2000watts will require a 20 amp circuit.

Ed
 
The picture in the first post calls for a SYL-4342 which is a relay contactor. I see on the Auber product page that SYL-4352 is SSR control. Which one do I need to purchase? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=102

Does anyone use the ramp / soak model for step mashing?

The picture in the first post shows a Type K thermocouple but the model in the parts list is a Type J.
 
Try linking to the static image. Go to view all sizes, select a size, then right click and select view image. The url up top is the static image location. Flickr decided to make it really hard to hotlink your images, pisses me off.
 
The only difference with the auber PIDs is the size, the display and buttons are the same, it's just made to fit into a larger hole. The 1/16 DIN are more popular because they are smaller and have identical capabilities, I believe the 1/4 DIN are mainly for retrofiting panels that have 1/4 DIN cutouts, or people that believe bigger is always better.
 
I'm trying to piece together my system and have read this thread start to finish a couple of times. There doesn't seem to be a concensus on the "best" element for use with Brewers Hardware RIMS tube. I spoke to Derrin and he said most are going with 4500W 240V LWD and running it at 110V. The posts on here about corrosion / gunk on element are making me think a stainless / incoloy elelment is the way to go. I found this

http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/5...inless-steel-water-heater-element-684528.aspx

but at 13 -1/2" length it will be touching the temp probe at the other end (total length of RIMS tube from Derrin is 16") - I'm using this probe

Liquid tight RTD sensor, 60 mm probe, 1/4 NPT Thread
Item# PT100-L60NPT

Any suggestions (links) to a good element would be appreciated.

One more thing, and I'll preface this with I'm a noob moron when it comes to this stuff, but I do try and plan to have an electrician friend help me with the actual install once I get to that stage.

I've read on here about people having the same concerns I do with regard to being able to use my pump (single tier, single pump system) when not in RIMS mode to move wort to BK, BK through CFC, etc. Does the pump HAVE to be wired per the OP diagram (pump integrated with PID and element) or can it be run off a separate switch with the PID and element working independently. In other words, I would flip pump to ON to begin circulating the mash, then turn on the PID to control temps during mash. Then turn PID OFF, pump off, switch my disconnects around and use the pump switch independently?

I guess what I'm saying is does the PID communicate with the pump to control flow or is it a simple on/off? I'm pretty sure it's the latter? Ideally I'd like to have it where i could flip a pump toggle from AUTO / ON / OFF where AUTO switch would have to be on before the PID would power up / element would function - but I don't have the confidence I could ever figure that out.

I realize there is inherent danger with having them independent (forgettign to turn pump on prior to activating PID = bad).

Thanks and I apologize in advance if these are dumb questions.
 

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