brew stand measurements

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Tomtanner

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I am looking to build a single tier brew stand and want support three keggles. I assume it should be about 2 feet deep and 3 feet High. What would guys recommend for length? I eventually want pumps and eventually some kind of cooling system. What your thoughts on this?
 
Well, how big are your pots? That's really the driving factor. Standard keggle you're about 16 inch diameter...x3, is 48 just for the keggles. You don't want them touching, so at least 3 inches on each side of the keggle, so tack on another 18 inches. Now you're up to 66 inches. Do you have any connections on the sides or near the sides of the keggles that you'd want more clearance space for? If so, throw on a few more inches...

Generally your pumps/plate chiller/controls/etc are down under the top tier so additional width isn't normally needed for this unless you have a unique design.

Either way, I'd say you're looking at a minimum of 66 inches. If you can spare some extra space, maybe you'd want to space out the keggles a bit further, but it shouldn't be needed.
 
My stand's shelf is 27 inches from the floor. This works for me, since I'm short and I can now stand on the floor and stir my mash when I mash in! When my stand was taller, I had to stand on a stepstool to add my additions and to mash in! I use two kegs and an Igloo cooler, which are pretty tall.

I don't know how long it is- it's just wide enough to fit everything. When I get home next week, I will measure it just to know for sure how wide and deep.

Here's a photo of mine:

DSCF5836.JPG


I have two pumps, and a CFC.
 
I've been getting ready to move to single tier. I've decided I want mine 2 feet high and 6 feet long to make it easy to see down into the keggles, etc. Factors to consider: How much storage you need? If you want to keep your carboys, extra hoses & equipment in the same footprint as the stand, factor in for that and make it a few inches higher. I'm all electric, but if you are going with gas, measure/account for burner height and clearances. You probably want the stand on casters too for ease of moving/cleaning, etc. Account for their height when building. Good luck and post photos when you get started!
 
RedStandwithkeggles.jpg


18" center to center, 54" inches long, 32" high including wheels, 18" deep

you want it high enough for a enough drop to the pumps
 
OneHoppyGuy said:
18" center to center, 54" inches long, 32" high including wheels, 18" deep

you want it high enough for a enough drop to the pumps

I saw your stand on another thread and referenced it as one example I would like to model my stand after when I spoke to a local fabricator.

He Said I could save money if I used galvanized steel rather than stainless. What are everyone's thoughts on that?
 
Have you priced the cost of having the frame dipped after building?
Not sure the zinc will hold up well to the heat.

It costs $155 to have my stands powder coated
 
At some point, someone did me a solid and responded to this thread and emailed me several pictures of his build process. I unfortunately lost that email and would greatly appreciate it if that gentleman could resend it to me. Anyone remember helping a newb out a month or so back?
 
OneHoppyGuy said:
PLEASE!! Do not do a gas beam. This is so unsafe. :(

Hey there I saw you post this warning on another thread. What would you recommend as an alternative?
 
Black pipe, with black pipe fittings; Copper with press fittings, or sweated; Stainless steel pipe with stainless steel fittings but not galvanized pipe, it will flake into the burners. Make sure it is rigid and fastened.

You could certainly use the gas beam if you like, however, most folks here are not welders and thus you absolutely need to have an xray of the beam to ensure it is tight. Thus the warning, don't mess with gas.
 
I am currently building my stand and I have completed the back side. My question might seem a bit stupid, after building the front side, I have to connect the two parts together.
With the sides, fastening a 90 degree angle was easy, however, with the tubes that connect from the front to the back I am quite stumped on what to do.

What are you guys using to fasten the tubes, to hold them in place so that you can weld them? Did you build a special jig or dew hickey?
 
Black pipe, with black pipe fittings; Copper with press fittings, or sweated; Stainless steel pipe with stainless steel fittings but not galvanized pipe, it will flake into the burners. Make sure it is rigid and fastened.

You could certainly use the gas beam if you like, however, most folks here are not welders and thus you absolutely need to have an xray of the beam to ensure it is tight. Thus the warning, don't mess with gas.


Couldn't you do a pressure or vacuum test to make sure you did a proper welding job?
 
I suppose that one could do that as well, just seems quite dangerous not being checking by a qualified professional, however, if you are a pro, then go at it.

It is my personal opinion that if you build something like this, and lets say for some reason an accident happens, your insurance will pay zilch. On the other hand, if you get the piece of mind that I had it checked, you are safe and in turn put the blame on the inspector.
 
I am currently building my stand and I have completed the back side. My question might seem a bit stupid, after building the front side, I have to connect the two parts together.
With the sides, fastening a 90 degree angle was easy, however, with the tubes that connect from the front to the back I am quite stumped on what to do.

What are you guys using to fasten the tubes, to hold them in place so that you can weld them? Did you build a special jig or dew hickey?

Pipe clamps...

Cheers!
 
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