How do you like them? I might be one of the few here that don't like to have the yeast sediment at the bottom of the bottle, not so much for me but I have to explained everyone that drinks one of my beers what it is. I dont really have the money or space for a 5gl keg so my next best thing is these Carbonation Drops that I just found online...Before I go out and get them I wanted to know what you thought about them...
Ever heard of Carbonation Drops???
- Thread starter Tonypr24
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Well I found them on this Carbonation Drops - Coopers - Beer-Wine.com but I'm sure you can find them pretty much anywere...
TexasStu
Well-Known Member
Many LHBS' have them.
I use them with my Coopers Kits.
Pretty easy, reduces steps to just dropping a couple in a Coopers PET bottle (24oz), filling and screwing on the cap real tight.
Just don't forget to add them! LOL I had to re-open a few on one of my first batches, add the drops (I forgot) and reseal the bottles.
Notes on that include you need to remove the little plastic ring that came off the old cap before screwing on a new cap (that has a ring). No, don't ask me how I know this.
The combination of the carbonation drops and the PET bottles make the bottling phase about as simple as you can get. Of course, racking to a bottling bucket (has a spigot that accepts a bottling wand) and adding bottling sugar is virtually as easy but Coopers system with their stuff makes it easy to just primary ferment and bottle from there after a couple weeks. A 2/2+ system that seems to work very well (for ME).
I use them with my Coopers Kits.
Pretty easy, reduces steps to just dropping a couple in a Coopers PET bottle (24oz), filling and screwing on the cap real tight.
Just don't forget to add them! LOL I had to re-open a few on one of my first batches, add the drops (I forgot) and reseal the bottles.
Notes on that include you need to remove the little plastic ring that came off the old cap before screwing on a new cap (that has a ring). No, don't ask me how I know this.
The combination of the carbonation drops and the PET bottles make the bottling phase about as simple as you can get. Of course, racking to a bottling bucket (has a spigot that accepts a bottling wand) and adding bottling sugar is virtually as easy but Coopers system with their stuff makes it easy to just primary ferment and bottle from there after a couple weeks. A 2/2+ system that seems to work very well (for ME).
TexasStu
Well-Known Member
PS. those ones you linked are more expensive than I remember them being. I thought they were like $4.95...
makebeer.net - $4.99
AHS - $4.49
And I am sure there are other places.
When you decide where and what to order keep in mind S&H charges as well as local state taxes! AHS has an excellent flat-rate S&H of $6.99! If you are not 'rushed' to get it. Can take a couple extra days. Best I know of. Put together a shopping list and add the drops with your order and all of it is only $6.99! Some places charge tax on items whether you are from their state or not. Of course, if you are in the same state they are required to charge state sales tax. (putting this in only for those who are not accustomed to mail order).
Summary: I'd gladly pay $5.95 if they offer free shipping!
makebeer.net - $4.99
AHS - $4.49
And I am sure there are other places.
When you decide where and what to order keep in mind S&H charges as well as local state taxes! AHS has an excellent flat-rate S&H of $6.99! If you are not 'rushed' to get it. Can take a couple extra days. Best I know of. Put together a shopping list and add the drops with your order and all of it is only $6.99! Some places charge tax on items whether you are from their state or not. Of course, if you are in the same state they are required to charge state sales tax. (putting this in only for those who are not accustomed to mail order).
Summary: I'd gladly pay $5.95 if they offer free shipping!
Gosassin
Well-Known Member
Since you're not kegging-->force-carbing-->bottling or filtering your beer, you're still going to have yeast in the beer, and therefore may also have at least some visible sediment in the bottle. To naturally carbonate you have to feed sugar to yeast, and the carb tabs are just a sugar mixture. The yeast eat the sugar and poop out CO2, then the yeast settle to the bottom.
APendejo
Well-Known Member
I tried Muntons carb drop a couple of years ago. What a mess, left scum on the bottom and little white floaties in the top of the bottles. No more carb drops for me.
AP
AP
ifishsum
Well-Known Member
Yeah, with the carb drops you're more likely to have other floaties and you'll still get sediment.
The longer you leave your beer in the fermenter (either primary or secondary) the less sediment you'll have. I usually primary for 10-12 days and then secondary for 2 weeks and have only very light sediment in the bottles.
The longer you leave your beer in the fermenter (either primary or secondary) the less sediment you'll have. I usually primary for 10-12 days and then secondary for 2 weeks and have only very light sediment in the bottles.
TexasStu
Well-Known Member
I haven't that from the Coopers variety at all!
Of course, the little depressions in the bottom get the yeast deposited in them (not a lot tho) but you'd almost have to shake up the bottle to not be able to pour without sediment.
I guess it depends on what they make the 'drops' from?
YMMV but they work GREAT (for ME)!
Smoodude
Active Member
When I first bought my brew kit, I purchased the Coopers carbonation drops. And that is all I have used to date for the three batches that I have bottled so far. I get a little sediment, but nothing to complain about. But I have not used another method so I have nothing to compare it to.
Carbonation drops will not reduce the sediment in the bottles. The carbonation drops are priming sugar premeasured for a single bottle of beer. They are not CO2. So you will still have the same problem of yeast eating the sugar, multiplying then settling to the bottom.
The only way to eliminate the sediment is to keg the beer, force carbonate, then bottle from the keg. Filtering or a significant cool rest period is also required to drop most of the yeast and sediment.
There are a number of commercial beers that are also bottle conditioned so just consider it giving your friends an education about good beer.
Craig
The only way to eliminate the sediment is to keg the beer, force carbonate, then bottle from the keg. Filtering or a significant cool rest period is also required to drop most of the yeast and sediment.
There are a number of commercial beers that are also bottle conditioned so just consider it giving your friends an education about good beer.
Craig
MarsColonist
Well-Known Member
I also had (still have after 5 months) floaties in my smoked porter from Muntons carbtabs. I give the thumbs down. Black beer with white floaties; not very appetizing to drink
Black beer with white floaties; not very appetizing to drink
TexasStu
Well-Known Member
I guess not all carb tabs are created equal?
Good to know which to buy (for those who use them)!
Good to know which to buy (for those who use them)!
APendejo
Well-Known Member
The scum on the bottom I spoke of in my first post was not yeast it was a white layer on top of the barely visible trace of yeast I normally get when I bottle. Most likely that and the floaties are some of the binding agent for the little carb pills, maybe cornstarch?
AP
AP
