My Primary Fermentor for Mead is a:

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WVMJ

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Big bucket or a carboy?

Having recently joined here, having most of my experience winemaking, this list does some things a little different which is why I joined. Do most meadmakers here do all their primary mead fermentation in a carboy, even if they are making a melomel? One reason I ask is it seems common here to have a blowoff tube on a carboy that is overflowing with foam, we start most of ours in a 10 gallon brute, if I can get 5 gallons of mead to overflow that I would be pleased to post a picture of that.

Also do most of you meadmakers here ferment your primary closed under an airlock?

Thanks,

WVMJ
 
I do all mine in carboys with airlocks. I have a blueberry melomel that was in danger of overflowing, so I drained a bit out and it settled at a happy point and hasn't threatened to escape since.
 
I got a bucket for Christmas so I thot I.would try it once. I am freaking out cause its now day 3 and no airlock bubbles. How ever it is frothing up when I aerate and I get little bubbling in my 3 piece air lock...I used four gallons of water 12lbs clover raw honey half gallon squeezed OJ and half gallon apple juice and 50 raisens...how ever I did not get a sg. Do to the fact my daughter broke my hydrometer :(...I pitched lavin 71b-1122....any ideas ....I'm thinking about putting it into a carboy ....temp 68 to 73 degrees ...
 
I use whatever I have available. I've got 5 x 27 litre buckets, some 19 litre glass as well as a couple of 22 litre plastic, 2 x 54 litre glass 2 x 34 litre glass and about 30 or so 1 gallon glass. Oh and 3 2 gallon plastic brewing buckets.

Sometimes I'll air lock stuff other times just a piece of cling wrap and an elastic band......

Jackfrost should check the bucket seal as that's usually why you see no air lock bubbles. Or maybe the grommet holding the air lock is of the harder almost plasticy type, I've had those not sealing well before and have changed to the orange coloured natural rubber which is much softer and seems to seal better.
 
I use a bucket for my primary, always. That way I do not have to mess with blowoff tubes and such. The bucket allows easy access for stirring and for working with fruit.
 
Like saramc, we use a bucket, for us its an 8 gal bucket or 10 gallon white brute. The bigger the bucket the harder you can stir and not make a mess, you can drop a drill stirred into a 10 gall brute and go full power, that will dissolve any honey. We cover it with just a dishtowel over the top secured with a bungee, if you seal the primary then stuff can condense on the lid where if its just covered with a towel it can breath during the primary fermentation. There is so much gas produced you dont have to keep it sealed to protect the mead. That makes it easy to get in there and stir a couple of times a day. I am wondering if this is more of a beermaker thing where carboys are used and airlocks put on very soon since beer has such a higher pH and lower alcohol and needs to be protected much more than wine or stronger meads? Its also a lot easier to mix everything up and get some air into the must in a bucket vs carboy.

Is there any advantage to doing to whole fermentation from start to finish in a carboy? Does it help the more traditional meads that dont have fruit? Do traditional meads oxidize easily? I havent made enough of them yet to uderstand about making traditional meads.

WVMJ
 
So that fact that its not bubbling is fine it smells right how long do I leave it in the bucket before I rack it to a secondary?
 
So that fact that its not bubbling is fine it smells right how long do I leave it in the bucket before I rack it to a secondary?

I typically transfer from primary bucket to carboy/airlock when the OG has dropped by 2/3 or 10 days maximum. I do not use airlock while in primary.
 
I use a bucket for my primary, always. That way I do not have to mess with blowoff tubes and such. The bucket allows easy access for stirring and for working with fruit.

Yep, me too. It's easy to remove bags of mushed fruit out of a bucket, but not out of a carboy!

After primary, the wine/mead/cider/ is racked to a carboy and airlocked.
 
Is there any advantage to doing to whole fermentation from start to finish in a carboy? Does it help the more traditional meads that dont have fruit? Do traditional meads oxidize easily? I havent made enough of them yet to uderstand about making traditional meads.

WVMJ

I can't think of any reason that a carboy would be preferable for primary. It would be more difficult I'd think to add your nutrients at the sugar breaks and to stir, although it would be possible.

Meads don't oxidize quite as easily as wines, but there is a risk if too much headspace is left or if the mead is splashed when racked.
 
I use a 5-gallon ale pail for primary. Easy to get into. Easy to clean after the initial racking. Downside is that the lids don't seal well, so it can be difficult to determine when the yeast are just starting up or are going dormant.

Brewing is classic hurry-up-and-wait. Give it 8-72 hours before panicking. I just did a raspberry melomel (OG 1.116 with D47), and it's just beginning to show signs of life at 16 hours.

If you feel apprehensive, I suggest giving the bucket/carboy a good shake. That oxygenates the must and distributes the active colonies. Sometimes, I also shout "Wake up yeasties!" It always makes me feel better.
 
GD, when you use a keg how do you know when its clear enough to rack? WVMJ

1/6 barrel sanke keg :ban: :D I also use them to age my mead batches. Put a solid TC cap over the opening and purge with CO2 and set it aside.
 
Your hydrometer will tell you when its ready to rack, I start to think about racking into a carboy at about 1.020 or wait until it goes all the way down to dry and stops fermenting. Its saturated with CO2 so its not going to get oxidized right after its done fermenting but dont wait to long after its done. WVMJ

So that fact that its not bubbling is fine it smells right how long do I leave it in the bucket before I rack it to a secondary?
 
GD, when you use a keg how do you know when its clear enough to rack? WVMJ

Experience.

I let it go until it's had long enough to finish up for primary. Then transfer to another [sanitized] keg to rest for a few months (up to about six normally) then I transfer again and repeat every 4-6 months. IMO, once you get over the need to see inside, you'll get a much better product. :D
 
Experience.

I let it go until it's had long enough to finish up for primary. Then transfer to another [sanitized] keg to rest for a few months (up to about six normally) then I transfer again and repeat every 4-6 months. IMO, once you get over the need to see inside, you'll get a much better product. :D
I noticed your mention of "sanke kegs" a while ago. But for the life of me, can't picture what you mean.

Are you referring to standard beer kegs with sanke fittings ? If so, how do you fit air locks etc ?

Only because I've got a keg in the shed and I believe the quick release fitting for when it was used to distribute beer, is called a sanke connection......

Maybe you could post a photo or something ?
 
I noticed your mention of "sanke kegs" a while ago. But for the life of me, can't picture what you mean.

Are you referring to standard beer kegs with sanke fittings ? If so, how do you fit air locks etc ?

Only because I've got a keg in the shed and I believe the quick release fitting for when it was used to distribute beer, is called a sanke connection......

Maybe you could post a photo or something ?

Since YOU asked... :D

Here's the one I filled up last, for a wildflower traditional mead. It's due to be transferred (first time) sometime soon. I'll simply remove the airlock (that's a section of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing connecting the airlock there) and install my cut dip tube and liquid corny post to transfer with a CO2 push. :D

Mead_sanke_fermenter.jpg
 
Sorry GD, but looking at a row of tin can fermenters isnt the same as caressing a glass carboy filled with deep red berry melomel or seeing that golden glow of a banana mead shining through the glass. Its kind of sad, you cant taste them with your eyes while they are resting. All you get is the cold blank stare of the mirrored sides and at best an aluminum can taste in your mouth when you try to see with your minds eyes through their thick walls to imagine what is inside. You are missing out on an important part of berthing a mead. JMHO So I can see why its easy for you to just can them up and forget about them which I fully agree, the longer in the carboy the better, no matter what kind, warm soft glass or cold steel.

WVMJ
 
Sorry GD, but looking at a row of tin can fermenters isnt the same as caressing a glass carboy filled with deep red berry melomel or seeing that golden glow of a banana mead shining through the glass. Its kind of sad, you cant taste them with your eyes while they are resting. All you get is the cold blank stare of the mirrored sides and at best an aluminum can taste in your mouth when you try to see with your minds eyes through their thick walls to imagine what is inside. You are missing out on an important part of berthing a mead. JMHO So I can see why its easy for you to just can them up and forget about them which I fully agree, the longer in the carboy the better, no matter what kind, warm soft glass or cold steel.

WVMJ

Once you get past the 'need' to see what's going on inside, you're suddenly free to do all sorts of things. Also, with how tight these seal up, there's NO risk of no airlock movements while fermentation is going on.

I used carboys initially, so I know what things look like. I mix up my batches of mead in a 1 gallon measuring cup, so I know what the color will be. Plus, when I transfer to a new vessel, I get to see what it's color is (and how clear it really is).

You can keep your neurosis over the glass carboys, along with the first aid kit within reach. My vessels are 100% light proof, won't crack, break, shatter at all, and if you drop one, at worst you'll put a ding in the floor. I'll even be able to hide behind them when the zombies start coming around. :D

BTW, while you have to lift your glass carboy onto a table (or have it on a shelf) in order to transfer to something else, I can leave mine at ground level. I actually bottled my maple mead/wine with my Blichmann Beer Gun, with the keg at floor level. Used a couple of PSI of CO2 into the keg and it went easy as pie. Also, these are 100% stainless steel, NOT 'tin can fermenters'... :rolleyes:
 
Hi GB, lifting carboys? Why do that when I have a vacum pump. I can have the carboy in the basement and vacum pump it upstairs if I wanted :) Drop one of those steel cans on your toe. I have cut a hole in the wifes brand new linoleum, but I survived her wrath so carboys are not that dangerous. Yes I have a need to visit with my carboys, I especially enjoy checking up on the before bedtime, making sure everything is peacefull and snug. I like the colored lights playing on the wall when I shine a light through them. I think this is another how a beer guy makes mead and how a winemaker makes mead thing. If I was going to make carbonated meads I would get one of these kegs, maybe when I start geezing I might have to switch to them if I ever start dropping stuff a lot :) WVMJ
 
So you picked up specialized hardware/equipment to pull your mead from a carboy in the basement to the first floow. :drunk: Never mind having a one hit wonder on your hands. You also have something else to have to sanitize before using and clean after, including how many extra feet of hose? You can keep it.
With my setup, I just use a CO2 regulator (and source) that I already have, and can use for more things. The only items that are really dedicated to the vessels are the fittings and cut dip tubes. But, those are beyond easy to clean, sanitize, and store. No cutting of the floor needed either. :p

Do as you like, feed your neurosis as you must, I don't have that issue. :D I can tell things are going on inside my fermenting vessels simply by airlock movements and the temperature sensors inside (thermowell in the top fitting). When it's gone back down to ambient, I know it's done fermenting. Seeing an increase in temp also lets me know when things are getting going (at the start) long before the airlock starts moving. Keeping the yeast in the dark makes them work better for me. Plus, they don't get blinded by any glare coming off my dome. :eek: :D Been known to bring down commercial jets on a bright day, after just shaving. :eek: :D
 
You dont have to sanatize a vacum pump, the mead only goes through 1 tube, there is a valve to protect the pump, no need to clean anything except one hose. Implosion possibilities are always an issue that needs to be made aware of. I am not sure how enjoying being with your wine is nerotic, but if thats crazy then count me in :) Have you evern accidentally shot yourself with your beergun, like when you sampled a bit to much at bottling time :) WVMJ
 
You dont have to sanatize a vacum pump, the mead only goes through 1 tube, there is a valve to protect the pump, no need to clean anything except one hose. Implosion possibilities are always an issue that needs to be made aware of. I am not sure how enjoying being with your wine is nerotic, but if thats crazy then count me in :)

So not only did you have to put a hole in the floor to use the pump, but you also have to worry about the vessel it's pulling from imploding. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. :rolleyes: With a CO2 push, I control the flow rate with the regulator on the CO2 source. Normally using only a couple of PSI of pressure does the job.

Also, 'being with your wine' just sounds so wrong I can't go into it... I don't need to have full carnal knowledge of my mead in order to feel secure. :eek: Oh, and yes, you ARE crazy... BobbiLynn has already called the men in the white truck to come and get you.

Have you evern accidentally shot yourself with your beergun, like when you sampled a bit to much at bottling time :) WVMJ

No, because I know how to use it... :smack: I usually wait until I've collected all I'm going to, for bottles, then take the last of the batch and sample from that. Usually, that's less than a bottle worth anyway (I normally use 375ml bottles).
 
I am learning the differences in how winemakers approach meadmaking and how beer makers do the same steps. With a vacum pump its also easy to degass anytime I want. I dont have a hole in the floor, I am only allowed to bottle in the basement after the lineoleum accident. I am going to filter a black raspberry melomel tommorow, another piece of winemaking equipment that makes things really easy and produces a truly clear mead. I have watched this mead develop over the whole year in its cozy little glass house. When they come to get me I will share a bottle of my blackberry melomel and show them what a beautiful sight it is, you have even encouraged me to put in some backlighting so I can see them all every night before bedtime :):) WVMJ
 
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