New Guy and my new Single Tier Build!

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MotleyBrue

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Feb 2, 2011
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Location
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Here is the start.. 50 ft of 2 inch square tubing.. Brewstand 2011 001.jpg
 
That is going to be one strong stand, probably could hold your boat. You do seem to have a lot of toys in that garage. Good luck and welcome!
 
This is where I ended up this afternoon. 2 solid afternoons of work and a random hour or 2 of grinding.. Pump, Keggle fittings and False bottom are enroute....

Brewstand 2011 061.jpg
 
All Steel.. 2 in square tubing @ .083 wall. 50 feet of it. I used all but 14 inches! Also a full spool of Mig wire! Not really planning on going into the Brewstand Biz just yet. hahaha JJ
 
I guess A-36 steel? not stainless. I can see doing some automation some day but being my first rig I wanted to keep it simple and manual.. I planned the build to be upgradeable.. The frame will handle whatever and I have room for electronics and solenoids when the time comes. I am going to install a panel area that will house pump switches and wiring for now. I want to be able to plug in the power and connect propane. Trying to keep it clean! JJ
 
I guess A-36 steel? not stainless. I can see doing some automation some day but being my first rig I wanted to keep it simple and manual.. I planned the build to be upgradeable.. The frame will handle whatever and I have room for electronics and solenoids when the time comes. I am going to install a panel area that will house pump switches and wiring for now. I want to be able to plug in the power and connect propane. Trying to keep it clean! JJ

I am on board with that! I am in the process of building one myself and that is the idea of mine too...simple for the time being until I learn the quirks of the system and how to run it manually. Then I will have a better idea of where I want to automate.

I also went with the mild steel and I'm going to paint it with the high temp engine stuff...
 
Quick Update...
According to my calculations you have a 0 out of 3 chance of making compression valve fittings work for propane plumbing... They all leaked at one end or the other.. I started at just over hand tight and worked all the way up to monster pissed off gorilla juicehead tight and they still leaked..just a little..but still leaked.. I went out and purchased the correct MIP / FIP threaded valves and all is good...

Once again.. cutting costs ends up costing twice as much.. My Bad.

Just an FYI and my $0.02 JJ
 
Quick Update...
According to my calculations you have a 0 out of 3 chance of making compression valve fittings work for propane plumbing... They all leaked at one end or the other.. I started at just over hand tight and worked all the way up to monster pissed off gorilla juicehead tight and they still leaked..just a little..but still leaked.. I went out and purchased the correct MIP / FIP threaded valves and all is good...

Once again.. cutting costs ends up costing twice as much.. My Bad.

Just an FYI and my $0.02 JJ

Brew,
I am at the same point in my build. I just posted on here last week as to the gas plumbing. You have done exactly what i wanted to do. I know nothing about gas plumbing. What is/are mip/fip threaded valves? Are these needle valves? What type of adapter is threaded into the burner assembly? BTW..Your rig looks awesome!:mug:
 
Really good job. I like the shelves on the ends with the expanded metal.

Do you get any deflection (bending/flex) on your top long tubes when you put weight on them?

I ask because i am getting ready to build my frame and was thinking bout using .120 wall tubing. But if the .083 wall works I could save a little coin.
 
Brew,
I am at the same point in my build. I just posted on here last week as to the gas plumbing. You have done exactly what i wanted to do. I know nothing about gas plumbing. What is/are mip/fip threaded valves? Are these needle valves? What type of adapter is threaded into the burner assembly? BTW..Your rig looks awesome!:mug:

MIP= Male Iron Pipe FIP= Female Iron Pipe These dont have to be made of iron to be called this. It is just how they call them out in the mechanical industries. It basically means that it has tapered pipe threads.
 
Hey great looking build you have going there. Also, some really nice toys in the garage. I'm just curious why you chose such large square tubing. Seems most people do. I used 1 inch square for mine and it is holding up just fine. Don't get me wrong, I love the look of the 2 inch steel but 1 inch is a lot cheaper. The 1 inch is what I had so that is what I used.
 
Brew,
why two types of valves? I just got back from the hardware store with my manifold and assembled it. What is the advantage/purpose of having the needle valve in-line? I am assuming it is greater burner control??? Thanks for the pics!
 
This is where I ended up this afternoon. 2 solid afternoons of work and a random hour or 2 of grinding.. Pump, Keggle fittings and False bottom are enroute....

looking to start my biuld soon,, looking at a two tier system, but wondering about dem. on yours, i like the way it looks alot.

thanks
 
Thanks guys,
50" wide, 16.5" deep, and 28" tall.. It will be close to 30" tall after the wheelbarrow style wheels / legs.
I went with 2" stock because it looks cool and a wider margin for error with the keg edges.
2 valves? Ball valve is a positive on / off, and the needle valve is finer control.. Ball valves WILL NOT allow much if any flame control. and also, I think it looks cool! hahaha

Also this is going to be kind of a feature or even an "artpiece" in my garage bar... so cool looks are a factor.

Thanks for the encouraging words. I am a new homebrewer and my first batch on this rig will be my first AG batch ever. hahahaha I know I'm biting off alot but thats the way I seem to roll! Thinking of EdWorts American "Hause" Ale.
 
Had to take a couple days off and Let UPS catch up with me.. Pump came in from Rebel Brew. And 20 foot of 1/2" silicone.

Brewstand 2011 064.jpg
 
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