How do you lower your costs of brewing?

So every 3 weeks or so I make a new beer. Though I have graduated to partial-mash (which I am still learning) the costs with my favorite brand of yeast White Labs is somewhere around $50 per 5Gal batch. How do you lower your costs?

Though I have started saving small portion of yeast from the starter, I don't have a "library" of bunch of yeast just yet. So can't save much there.

I am looking at possibly getting some hopps in larger quantity, but I need to find what is most common in my Belgians I like (I am into heffes, porters, strong ales, and heavy aromatic hopp pales). What would you suggest I stock up on to lower my costs?

Any other way I can reduce my costs per batch?

All grain is cheaper as far as supplies. Course...the 'upgrading' never seems to stop. I've convinced my SWMBO that it's a hobby, not necessarily a way to save cash.

Wash yeast, bulk hops and bulk grain.

I am just not ready for all grain yet. I am still learning how to sparge, plus my kitchen is relatively small, so extended setup is just not in the books.

waldoar15 said:

Wash yeast, bulk hops and bulk grain.

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That about sums it up. Using tap water is the only other thing I can think of.

$50/batch is acceptable to me. It's cheaper than Sam Adams (figure $50/batch is $12.50/12pk) at that point, and that's what I'd be buying otherwise as a daily swill....

If you're talking Belgians, HB is always cheaper.

Accounting class taught me to identify all the areas of cost first, then figure out where you can cut back. I'm assuming you have all of your "sunk" costs set, like equipment.

There are various ways to go cheap. First, shop around the home brew sites and compare those prices with shipping to your LHBS. Second, I find that all-grain is cheaper as those malt extracts are pricey.

You can cut costs by harvesting your own yeast and making your malt bill simple.

Other than that, you have to shop around. I'd be curious if others have any tips. For me it is a hobby and like most hobbies, it is something you just know is going to cost money.

Having a library of yeast isn't as attractive to cost reduction as it sounds like up front. Maintaining the library takes a lot of work and money spent on equipment. Since you like Belgians, I would recommend sticking with 1 strain of yeast and rinsing it from batch to batch. If it isn't exactly to style but you still like it, then you achieved your goal of cost reduction.

As you said, buying hops in bulk is also a good way to go. I don't use enough hops to buy by the pound, but I use Rebel Brewer for a couple of ounces of hops at a time. If you stay below 4 ounces or so, the shipping is super cheap, and you can get hops for around $1.50-$2.00 an ounce with shipping included.

You're also right that going all grain will cut down on your costs. Fly Guy has a thread out there on how to make a mash tun pretty cheaply. It pays for itself rather quickly.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

I just thought of this...
Brew styles that lend themselves to simple sugars (e.g. Belgian Blonde). I would think cane sugar is cheaper than extract.

jescholler said:

Having a library of yeast isn't as attractive to cost reduction as it sounds like up front. Maintaining the library takes a lot of work and money spent on equipment. Since you like Belgians, I would recommend sticking with 1 strain of yeast and rinsing it from batch to batch. If it isn't exactly to style but you still like it, then you achieved your goal of cost reduction.

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How do you figure on that?? I already had large enough jars to wash the yeast with, and smaller ones to store it in. I'm splitting each washing into two, or three, doses so space isn't really an issue. Since I didn't spend anything on hardware to wash yeast, if I get 30 more batches (figuring stopping at gen 5) the yeast would have cost me about $0.25 per 5 gallon batch. I am banking, right now, two strains of yeast, and expect to bank one or two more as I use them.

As you said, buying hops in bulk is also a good way to go. I don't use enough hops to buy by the pound, but I use Rebel Brewer for a couple of ounces of hops at a time. If you stay below 4 ounces or so, the shipping is super cheap, and you can get hops for around $1.50-$2.00 an ounce with shipping included.

You're also right that going all grain will cut down on your costs. Fly Guy has a thread out there on how to make a mash tun pretty cheaply. It pays for itself rather quickly.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

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BIAB makes things VERY cheap for going all grain. No need to convert a cooler into a MLT.

I purchased some bulk hops from Farmhouse Brewing Supply. Good selection, at reasonable prices (far better than the LHBS)... They come in 4 ounce packets, and the more you get the cheaper they become.

Since I started using washed yeast, my cost per batch (5 gallons) has been about $15. So for less than one 12 pack of SA, I'm able to get solid home brew... I probably won't save much money when I start buying grain by the 55 pound sack, it will just mean that I won't need to make a trip to get grain, or place an order ahead of time. Since I'll also have a Barley Crusher here, it also means that my grain will be very freshly crushed for each brew (plan to crush the morning of brew-day at that point).

Washing yeast was a big money saver for me. Also, AG lowers cost a lot. I'm <$25 for a 10 gallon AG batch. When I first stared brewing, I was at around $45 for 5 gallon extract/partial grain batches. Like Golddiggie says, you can BIAB to go AG.

My switch to all grain from stove top partial mash cost me about $200 by the time I was done. $100 keg with fittings, $70 IC, $30+ BIAB and propane burner. That all started with the purchase of a "cheap" $30 keg. It'll probably take me a year to break even vs. my partial mash setup.

It sounds like your ingredient cost is way too high. Most kits sold online are $30-40 range for extract and lower for partial or all grain. I'd say finding better deals and buying bulk hops would cut your costs a bunch.

Brew beer kits with dry yeast option.

Dry yeast is just as good as liquid yeast for MANY styles of beer. I'm willing to bet that a lot of the brews you're making would be just as good if you used S04 or S05 or something like that rather than shelling out for a White Labs vial, extra dme for a starter, etc.

And when you do use liquid yeast, wash that yeast and save it for future batches. After paying for the first batch, the yeast is free after that.

+1 on buying hops in bulk as well.

It sounds like you are buying your ingredients for individual batches. First thing to do is take care of the low hanging fruit. Dry malt is extremely expensive, but DME in bulk and you can cut that significantly.

http://labelpeelers.com/briess-pils...-p-2471.html?zenid=oelupmes3na66hru1v140evnj0

Or do a basic all grain setup and buy bulk base malts and a grain crusher and really start saving.

Hops are what kill me, so I buy mine online by the pound.

http://www.hopsdirect.com/

As other's have said, rinse your yeast. If you are brewing every 3 weeks you can keep a couple strains going easy enough.

How about $25-$30 a 1.052 SG batch?

$14.50 for 5.5lb. malt extract (counting starter)
$2.60 for spec. grains
$2 for 2 oz. hops
$7 yeast

This is all doable from this place. http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=53
Bulk DME $2.50/lb.
halleratau hops $.70/oz.
Spec. grain $1.30/lb.

Gotta go bulk on the the base DME.

jescholler said:

Having a library of yeast isn't as attractive to cost reduction as it sounds like up front. Maintaining the library takes a lot of work and money spent on equipment. Since you like Belgians, I would recommend sticking with 1 strain of yeast and rinsing it from batch to batch. If it isn't exactly to style but you still like it, then you achieved your goal of cost reduction.

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Golddiggie said:

How do you figure on that?? I already had large enough jars to wash the yeast with, and smaller ones to store it in. I'm splitting each washing into two, or three, doses so space isn't really an issue. Since I didn't spend anything on hardware to wash yeast, if I get 30 more batches (figuring stopping at gen 5) the yeast would have cost me about $0.25 per 5 gallon batch. I am banking, right now, two strains of yeast, and expect to bank one or two more as I use them.

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What I was getting at is since the OP only brews once every 3 weeks, the yeast he saves may get old enough to the point where he would need to plate it to ensure a pure healthy pitch. The reliable shelf life of harvested rinsed yeast is 2 weeks (that's not to say that people can't and haven't made good beer with harvested yeast older than that). By brewing every 3 weeks, it would be impossible to maintain more than 1 harvested strain within the reliable shelf life. In order to get more reliable shelf life, he would need to store the yeast on a plate or slant (there are also longer term storage methods). That would require extra time and equipment that probably outweighs the cost benefit of reusing the yeast, or the payback time would be very long. Not to say that he shouldn't reuse yeast, but that he should stick with a single strain and rinse it between batches.

jescholler said:

What I was getting at is since the OP only brews once every 3 weeks, the yeast he saves may get old enough to the point where he would need to plate it to ensure a pure healthy pitch. The reliable shelf life of harvested rinsed yeast is 2 weeks (that's not to say that people can't and haven't made good beer with harvested yeast older than that). By brewing every 3 weeks, it would be impossible to maintain more than 1 harvested strain within the reliable shelf life. In order to get more reliable shelf life, he would need to store the yeast on a plate or slant (there are also longer term storage methods). That would require extra time and equipment that probably outweighs the cost benefit of reusing the yeast, or the payback time would be very long. Not to say that he shouldn't reuse yeast, but that he should stick with a single strain and rinse it between batches.

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I would REALLY like to know where you get this '2 weeks' viability limitation on harvested/washed yeast... I think it's 100% weapons grade Bullonium. I actually have used yeast that was washed a month ago and it's going just fine after being pitched in just yesterday. I'm brewing about every two weeks, right now, in order to establish (and then maintain) a decent pipeline while giving each brew enough time to become excellent (3-4 week primaries for 'low' gravity brews, longer for higher).

From what I've read, you don't want to let yeast stick around for more than about 6 months in your fridge. I'm keeping it in the cooler area of the fridge, just above freezing (don't want to kill them wonderful/magical beasties)...

Keep in mind, I'm using smallish starters (about 1-1/2 quarts of starter) for these yeasts. I'm also harvesting just two or three doses per washing (lots of yeast per dose)... So, if you're thinking of harvesting a dozen doses from each, yeah, it's a lot to use. But, if you keep it within your production level, or pipeline, you can easily do it.

I do hope that my next place has enough room so that I can have more batches in process at a single time. Then I'll really want to make sure I wash yeast.

Also, right now I have two strains that I'm harvesting. Granted, the second strain doses have not been used, yet (two doses harvested) but I expect to brew next with one of them.

Thinking that you need to go to extremes to have viable yeast for brewing with 3 weeks between doesn't fly with me. Especially with what I've already encountered.

I think, that as long as you use the yeast within a reasonable amount of time, using a starter a day or two before your brew day, you'll be fine. There are many yeasts out there that are good for enough different styles (even if they don't list a style in their parameters) to make it work. I'm looking to have two to four strains on hand to brew with (washed)... These will be my main yeasts that will cover the majority of what I brew. Sure, there could be the odd time when I'll purchase a yeast strain for the infrequent brewing. I'm just looking to not purchase the same two or three strains for 90-95% of what I brew.

Another thing, that is probably an important item in the yeast bank... Labeling what strain they are, what generation they are, and the harvest/wash date will help you to ensure you don't overlook using a dose. Also keep the doses you harvest within your capacity for brewing. Don't have a dozen, or even half dozen, strains of yeast if you brew once a month. Also don't keep 6-8 doses of each yeast and expect to get through them all. Unless you're the yeast bank for a brew club that is.

Personally, I wouldn't mind sharing the yeast I've washed with another brewer, provided I get a dose to replace the one I give him/her when the brew comes off the yeast cake.

Properly store the washed yeast, and you should be good for some time with it. Or, develop a frozen bank of yeast if you're not going to use the strain for an extended period (more than 4 months). That could get a little pricey for initial (additional) hardware like a centrifuge (under $300 on amazon, with more than a few under $200)... Looking at it long term, that's not a lot to invest for a frozen yeast bank... Especially if you like some of the seasonal yeasts that are only available for 1-2 months a year.

Maybe I'm in the minority here, but I don't see anything wrong with anyone washing yeast that wishes to. Even if you only keep one or two doses going at a time, you'll end up saving cost...

Golddiggie said:

I would REALLY like to know where you get this '2 weeks' viability limitation on harvested/washed yeast... I think it's 100% weapons grade Bullonium.

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I got my data from page 192 of Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. Figure 6.5 gives a summary of the methods of yeast storage and their respective reliable shelf lives and maximum shelf lives. For a harvested slurry stored at 38F, the reliable shelf life is 2 weeks and the maximum shelf life is 6 months. I believe the term reliable means mutant free (probably under a certain threshold) while the term maximum means living cells.

I may have gotten a little carried away by assuming that the OP wanted a mutant free culture, but without asking, I can't recommend practices that will produce sub-optimum beer. I'm sure you can get away with using harvested yeast months after the harvest date and produce a beer that will have off flavors below the detection thresholds of many. I'll admit that I used yeast 5 weeks after harvesting, and the beer was good to me. I think it all comes down to how strict you want to be, and how much risk are you willing to take at producing a beer with a number of contaminants above your detection threshold.

Seems to me the cheapest route is to reuse yeast or cakes and extract your own malt grain by doing all-grain. Buying bulk.****, grow your own hops/grain. Ha. I just seen some dude on youtube harvest and sell a crapload of good hops he had found.
It cost me on average a dollar per beer.Doing extract.partial.

$20-35 a batch for me, all-grain. On huge huge beers I'll usually move down to 4gallon and use a 5gal carboy.

grow your own hops. i've been doing the research and hops grow up to 20 feet a year and they a perenial which means they come back every year. plus it will the freshest hops that you can get your hands on. Hops is a vine that is very hardy between alabama up to ohio which i think is zones 3 through 7.

I feel your pain. I have worked with my LHBS to get recipes and was shocked at the $45-50 batch cost. I started reusing yeast with very good results (need a cheap way to build starters).
Recently I switched to Northern Brewer products and the first bottle conditioned batch is very good but a little light. I bought three kits to save on shipping and the cost is under $25 per batch with one Wyeast smack pack to start it off.
I think if I want the big beer or specialty beer I have liked in the past it will be back to the LHBS but a good session beer can be ordered on-line cheaper.

Drink less.

One question for you is how much you rely upon yeast flavor in your beer, because the more strains you buy for your brewing the more money you are going to put down on a very expensive element. For example, you brew porters and pale ales. Are you buying a strain for the porter and a different one for the pale ales? You could get away with using an English strain and wash it or just go dry with S04 or Nottingham. Granted, you will need a different strain for your weizens and Belgians, but if you are looking for cost reduction, it makes sense to work off of one strain for as many beer types as it is appropriate for that style.

If you are using liquid yeast, or bottle harvesting, washing or reusing cakes is a huge cost cutter. You can safely turn one $7 vial into over 200 batches if you have the room to store that much washed yeast and you can use it all before it goes bad. Needless to say, at a minimum you can stretch your yeast costs out over many batches.

Doing full boils will also increase hop utilization which will decrease the amount of hops you need to use, if you are doing partial boils.

If you typically use recipes where the same or interchangeable hops are being used you can definitely buy bulk and get your hops cost down. If your recipes don't use the same hops, look at your recipes to see where you might be able to make some changes. A lot of bittering hops don't add unique flavors and you could get away with bittering most of your beers with the same hops. That would also give you a reason to buy bulk.

I do believe all grain is way cheaper. Although you might dish out $70 or so to build a mashtun (or go BIAB for less) and if you don't have large enough of a pot then some more cash for another pot, when you are dropping $10-20 (or more) per batch you will make that money back in under a year, especially at the rate you are brewing. I'm not saying all grain is better or easier or a cheaper option if you keep buying new stuff, but it can be a much cheaper option.

My LHBS has a system where after you buy 10 "kits," meaning the ingredients to brew a batch of beer, you get a free one. I was in the other day and bought some supplies and an ingredient batch and they gave me two punches. Figure I'm saving at least 10% by doing that alone.

Just found a place that has 3 lbs bags of DME for $3/bag cheaper than the LHBS before tax. I didn't ask about getting larger quantities.

In my case, I've only been doing this since the end of October, and I have yet to brew the same beer twice and I'm on batch number 9. Some of the ingredients have overlapped, but most of them, especially the specialty grains and hops, have been different, along with the yeast strains.

If I'm under $1/beer for Belgians, Hefes, clones of craft beers, etc, I figure I'm crushing the price at the bar, the 6 pack price, and even by the case at the distributor.

I have a 5 gallon batch of Victory Hop Devil going and the local bar has it for $3/bottle or $13 for a six pack. Even if that beer cost me $50, I'm saving money.

I figure within 6 months to a year of brewing, I'll start settling into a routine of the regular beers my wife and I like and we can start buying in bulk for those beers accordingly.

jonmohno said:

Seems to me the cheapest route is to reuse yeast or cakes and extract your own malt grain by doing all-grain. Buying bulk.****, grow your own hops/grain. Ha. I just seen some dude on youtube harvest and sell a crapload of good hops he had found.
It cost me on average a dollar per beer.Doing extract.partial.

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Considering beer is basically 4 ingredients (grain, hops, water and yeast), bringing those down is the way to go:

1. Grain - get a mill, buy grain in bulk
2. Hops - order in bulk or grow your own
3. Water - cheap
4. Yeast - Wash your own and culture samples

Each of those steps requires some additional equipment...bulk grain requires a mill, washing yeast requires some mason jars and possibly flasks for starters (stirplate if you want), and growing hops requires a decent amount of work.

Personally, I'm buying grain in bulk, washing yeast, and ordering bulk hops. I don't have yard space to grow hops...even if I did, hopsdirect is just so cheap...it would be tough for me to justify growing hops on a time/value scale.

Dry yeast in the non-Belgian/wheat beers. Cheaper than DME used in starters.

Probably the most important thing to cut costs is to stop buying equipment.

I have very strict rule for myself about buying any new equipment, I must produce profit from selling something. Lately I've bought glass carboys and one guy's brew setup, sold it all off at a profit, so now I have "paid off" 50% of my initial setup.