Spa panel vs. Standard

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KitB

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Joined
Dec 9, 2011
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Location
Maple Grove
I'm a little confused about whether I need a spa panel.
Is there any reason I can't add a 50 Amp GFCI breaker to my existing panel, if there's room?
Is there something better about using a remote spa panel?
 
It's usually cheaper to buy the panel with the 50a breaker, than it is to buy just the GFCI breaker to fit your existing panel. The 50a spa panel w/breaker sells for around $50 at Home Depot.
 
It's usually A LOT cheaper to buy a spa panel and wire it in than to add a separate GFCI breaker for some reason.
 
Adding a GFCI breaker to your mains panel is A-Ok. You might be in for 'sticker shock' when you see the price of a GFCI breaker that fits your panel. A lot of them in the 30A or 50A (120v/240V) versions are more than $100. That is part of the reason that the Spa Panel becomes a popular item for us.

Another reason is if the brewery would be connected to an existing range or dryer outlet. Commonly, the range or dryer will not operate on a GFCI circuit. Also, if it was wired several years ago, the dryer circuit is 3 wire.
 
Interesting...OK.
I had seen the crazy price difference.
Outrageous, really.

So, to power my spa panel, would I branch from an existing breaker, or would I wire directly from the incoming power?
 
most likely you will put it on its own breaker in your main panel, but there are several ways to do it. if you are unsure, you should ask an electrician to take a look. this isnt a particularly hard job to do, but if you dont do it correctly it can be very dangerous. definately do not put it directly on the incoming line to your house. it should be behind the main breaker, and then on its own sub-breaker so that it doesnt possibly trip power to your entire house.
 
I guess I should have clarified...I did mean after the main breaker, for sure.
Thanks for the reply.
I'll definitely place it in my brew room, downstream from a sub-breaker.
There are 3 unused 240V breakers in my panel...I'll have to check the amperage, on those.
 
Can you please make a recommendation for size of the breaker upstream of the 50amp spa panel?
 
I guess I should have phrased that, a little differently.
Should my upstream breaker be sized equal or larger to the 50 amp GFCI breaker, rather than smaller?
I will be using 10 awg wire.

Hmmm...Forget it...I see that 10 awg only carries 30 amps.
Sorry for my ignorance.
 
I guess I should have phrased that, a little differently.
Should my upstream breaker be sized equal or larger to the 50 amp GFCI breaker, rather than smaller?
I will be using 10 awg wire.
# 10 wire must be protected with a breaker no larger than a 30A unit.
 
I bought the spa panel, pulled the GFCI breaker out, and installed that in my panel (it happened to be the right type luckily)
I'm actually using the leftover panel to put the breakers for the individual elements / 110 bits.
 
After some research, I believe I now have a better understanding.
The 30 amp breaker in my panel will be used to monitor overloads & the GFCI on the 50 amp breaker downstream will be used to monitor ground faults, rather than overloads.
I will be using the 10-3 household wiring that was previously set up for a dryer & make that into junction box, by removing the outlet.
Then, I'll wire to my brew room, from that box & power my element & my March pump.
 
Excellent plan KitB you have covered all your bases for a safe installation. Just don't try and dry your clothes while making beer. A lot of people don't bother hard wiring into the dryer box they just put cord cap on a piece of SO cord (heavy extension cord that you can buy in bulk rolls) and plug it into the dryer outlet.
 
After some research, I believe I now have a better understanding.
The 30 amp breaker in my panel will be used to monitor overloads & the GFCI on the 50 amp breaker downstream will be used to monitor ground faults, rather than overloads.
I will be using the 10-3 household wiring that was previously set up for a dryer & make that into junction box, by removing the outlet.
Then, I'll wire to my brew room, from that box & power my element & my March pump.
Please see the highlited text above.

I strongly suggest that you do not do this. When you have a circuit in place that ends in an outlet, that circuit is in accordance with the NEC (National Electrical Code) at the time it was wired and put into service. If you chose to remove the outlet and hard wire from that box on, you MUST comply with the current NEC. You would be far better off using the outlet that is in place and then setting up your 'rig' using a plug in cord. Doing that, you would be ok.

Please be careful in your choices.

P-J
 
OK...Dang. That outlet is about 30' away.

I was hoping to make it a little more of a permanent thing.
But, I understand what you're getting at & it makes good sense.
...Especially, since my house was built in 1967.
 
Any idea what that would need, to meet current code?
Does it need to be enclosed in conduit?
If so, I'm already screwed.
 
Any idea what that would need, to meet current code?
Does it need to be enclosed in conduit?
If so, I'm already screwed.
Just use the current outlet that is in place now. Use a cord and plug to connect to that outlet and you are good to go.

I'm PMing you. We really need to talk this out. Please.!
 
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