HELP!!! Polarware 25 Gal Pot "WTF"

A couple of months ago I got a steal on Craigslist from a guy in Baltimore for a 25 gallon heavy duty Polarware Stainless Pot for $75.00. It even had the original sticker still attached. I don't even have to tell you how excited I was when I discovered my 15 gallon Polarware false bottom fit this perfectly as well. I envisioned the possibilities of a huge mash tun, a huge hot liquor tank, a huge boil kettle, the versatility of this vessel was endless, I felt a bulge in my pants just thinking about it. After a few weeks later I decided to fill it with water to do a couple of measurements and much to my dismay I noticed several small "pin holes" that were "weeping" water. "WTF" !!! I thought stainless was extremely durable. Was this guy using it in a "METH LAB" or what? I was devistated. The pics don't show very well what may have happened here but can anybody explain what might have caused this? Is there any way to salvage this pot? I have read the article on red epoxy and even saw a can of spray sealer at Walmart that patches leaks in boats but I am at a loss on the best way to still make this a useable vessel. Any insight would be very much appreciated.

Maybe someone was using it as a chlorine/water dunk tank for sanitation and didn't know that it could eat up stainless?

If I was going to try to fill random pinholes I'd try silver solder and hope that the pin holes don't indicate the whole kettle wall has been thinned down...

Cheers!

Thanks for your opinion day_trippr but the walls don't appear thin. It seems the holes are not realy noticable until it has liquid weeping outside. Interesting about the chlorine therory but any advice on how to do the correction with silver solder? Would it be advised to locate/mark each hole, then prep, heat, kind of spot solder/fill each hole?

Mark the general area where the holes are. lightly sand over them then apply a little liquid flux made for stainless steel. carefully apply heat on the back side until the solder melts and adheres to the pot. It probably wouldn't look pretty but if the solder adheres properly it should be leak free.

If water will get through then the solder will whick into the hole just fine.

clean really well as advised and once you get the solder applied you can wipe away the excess with a wet rag (wear gloves)

I've seen the video that Bobby M has out on soldering his element tri-clamps but have never attempted this my self. This kettle is very deep so heating from the backside could be a little tricky/dangerous. Most of the pin holes seem to be towards the bottom and you would have to be pretty deep into the kettle to reach. Obviously there would be a large mass of hot metal that I would be sticking my arm into. Could I heat from the outside and get similar results?

You should do everything from the outside...

Cheers!