EBCIII inspired eBIAB build

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jCOSbrew

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Competed my eBIAB control panel inspired by several of the threads on the forum. Wanted manual and PID control like the EBCIII as well as some additional features like the e-stop, alarm, and auto mode for the pump. A phase angle ssr allows manual control with the potentiometer and the pid uses relay output and simple on/off control of the 220v contractor. Test run went well and this should save some time on brew day. With recirculation I hit the process temp within 1 deg f.

For those who eBIAB, do you use the element and recirculate during the mash or just insulate the kettle? My AL kettle will lose a couple degrees every 15 minutes.

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jCOSbrew said:
Competed my eBIAB control panel inspired by several of the threads on the forum. Wanted manual and PID control like the EBCIII as well as some additional features like the e-stop, alarm, and auto mode for the pump. A phase angle ssr allows manual control with the potentiometer and the pid uses relay output and simple on/off control of the 220v contractor. Test run went well and this should save some time on brew day. With recirculation I hit the process temp within 1 deg f.

For those who eBIAB, do you use the element and recirculate during the mash or just insulate the kettle? My AL kettle will lose a couple degrees every 15 minutes.

If you can recirculate you should have no problems using the element to maintain mash temps. I'd love to build a 3v setup like kals, but been researching this and I'll probably end up with a eBIAB setup just like this. Just wanted to say great work, and be sure to post pics of the whole setup!
 
Do you have the schematics for the wiring? I'm starting something very similar and would love to see what your versions looks like.
 
See schematic below. Note that my design makes the following assumptions:

1. Use of PID in ON/OFF mode (or long duty cycle), PID does not pulse width modulate the SSR.
This setup allows me to use the voltage resistance SSR (phase angle control) to adjust the power/intensity in manual or auto mode and use the PID relay output to enable/disable the AC contactor and heating element based on temperature. In my test run I ran the recirculation and hit the strike temp within 1 deg F. Form what I understande, the EBCIII PID is configured the same way. During the mash I will also be able to use the minimum power setting (about 2000Watts) to prevent scorching of the grains.

2. Use of a low power 15W pump, <1amp at 120V AC.
This allows me to use the wiring scheme shown below which includes the PIDs internal relay (3A max) for the pump "Auto" feature, the pump is on when the element is on. External relays and different wiring are required for a higher power, higher current pump like the March or Chugger pump.

Also note that the PID wiring is for the MyPin TA4, the popular Auberins PIDs have a different pin out.

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Is the box plastic - where'd you get it and roughly what did it cost? (I LIKE it!)

How are you getting rid of the heat generated by the SSR?

I really like it. Cutting square holes in metal is really something I'd like to avoid so I've been looking for a nice plastic option like this. (I also know its way safer to have a separate control box than make a combined spa breaker panel box + control box.)


Adam
 
Ssr heat is TBD. Will add a fan or external heat sink if necessary.

Enclosure is a Bud Nema 4x about 11x8x6. It was $41 shipped on amazon and has provisions for a back panel or internal din rail mounting and came with external mounting hw. Round and square holes are much easier with PVC.
 
Did a 5 gal batch and ssr temp was 60C/200F max so should be fine. Larger batches or higher power element may require active cooling.
 
I'm planning the same thing and this helps a lot to visualize what I need vs what I want. $2k for controls when I have no plans to grow beyond biab is ridiculous (but BOY would I love one of Kal's boxes!) I've got to get over the idea of "building for the future" and keep it simple.

Thanks for a great thread.
 
brewfreeordie said:
I'm planning the same thing and this helps a lot to visualize what I need vs what I want. $2k for controls when I have no plans to grow beyond biab is ridiculous (but BOY would I love one of Kal's boxes!) I've got to get over the idea of "building for the future" and keep it simple.

Thanks for a great thread.

This is my problem. I always dream of having a Kal Clone setup, but then after every BIAB, I realize I can make some awesome beers this way, and love the simplicity.

My goal is to have a setup like this BIAB setup, but I'm focusing on fermentation before I upgrade my brewing equipment anymore. Oxygenation, yeast starters, and temp control get the next upgrades.
 
Good plan.
The electric part of eBIAB helps with repeatability and convenience but you can achieve the same result (good all grain beer) with a stock pot, a bag, and a $50 propane burner.

FYI, my fermentation temp control setup is a swamp cooler + an acquarium heater, about $30 total.
 
jCOSbrew said:
Good plan.
The electric part of eBIAB helps with repeatability and convenience but you can achieve the same result (good all grain beer) with a stock pot, a bag, and a $50 propane burner.

FYI, my fermentation temp control setup is a swamp cooler + an acquarium heater, about $30 total.

When I give up this type of work and will be home every night the swamp cooler could work for me but right now I work from home 3 weeks at a time.

My basement sits at about 16-18 degrees Celsius, I ferment everything I make @ those temps.
 
FYI, The calculated the mash efficiency on my first eBIAB all grain batch at 80%. I think that dialing in the grain mill and temp control during the mash both helped significantly. Looking forward to a strong batch of AHS Holiday Ale.
 
jCOSbrew said:
FYI, The calculated the mash efficiency on my first eBIAB all grain batch at 80%. I think that dialing in the grain mill and temp control during the mash both helped significantly. Looking forward to a strong batch of AHS Holiday Ale.

Awesome job! That's great numbers!
 
I received the same enclosure in the mail yesterday. It's actually smaller than it looks. -I'm doing a 2 element, 240v, 2 pump build so I need a lot more contactors/relays (and they're pretty big); I also really NEED a heat sink for my SSRs as there's just going to be a lot more energy going through them. It's going to be a really, REALLY tight fit and I'm going to have to plan the internal layout VERY carefully. I don't think I can even accommodate the blade connectors attaching to my PID controller as I really need the room in the box...

I'm also flabbergasted that the box didn't come with a back panel.

I'm also dealing with 240v 50 amp service coming into the box and the only connector I've found that will support it is just HUGE and takes up a ton of precious space in that box... I do like it but I wish I would've planned a bit better (I see you made a number of design trade-offs that make your system perfect for a box this size.) -The low power pump, as one example.


So what tools did you use to cut the square holes in the box?
Adam
 
I use stepbit and jigsaw for square holes. Plastic is easy to work with.

External heats sink will save some space. I also use 30 amp power relays. Hard wired power cord and speakon type connectors for elements will help.
 
Check out the auberins control panel with built in heats sink and 3x PID cutouts. Most people are using a 12x16 or 16x16 enclosure for a complex 50amp build. The small panel I used is great for a simple eBIAB setup.
 
Nice. The wire rack has a pretty small base. Is it stable with all the water and grains, especially when you are pulling the grain bag out.

What size hoes is that? 1" looks to big to be 1/2"

Chris
 
Wire rack is very stable and is on a flat, concrete slab. Much more stable than the typical turkey fryer propane burner stands.

Hose is 1/2" ID silicon with 1/2" NPT camlocks for connections. I push the silicon hose right over the threads on a street elbow for maximum flow rate/minimum restriction.
 
jCOSbrew, thanks again for the inspiration on the little Bud Enclosures Nema 4x box. After having a mechanical engineer friend mock up my box using a 3D autocad program we found a way to make everything work even with my more complicated design; I had very little room for error but with the 3D CAD drawing to prove that it could work in an acceptable layout I went for it.

We then created templates using MS word that we then printed out and taped to each side of the box to perfectly align all the holes -drilled out the center of each hole using a small pilot bit. (It's pretty simple really; use the built-in Drawing tool to make boxes where the corners represent where you want the center of a component's hole -then label each corner for good measure.

Pictures of mine almost finished: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1336290566929.536472.776771928&type=3&theater (Bought the wrong size alarm buzzer, still need to organize my wire, and need a replacement nut from Auber for one of the yellow LED indicator lights but beyond that, good-to-go!).

-I ended up going with a 30amp design that will support switching between each of my 5500w elements (HLT and kettle); I didn't have a solution that I trusted for switching the PID controller's temp probe between two probes so I'll be manually switching the RTD temp sensor when I switch my heat output between the HLT and Kettle; they're identical temp probes and are identical length; I'll also only be using PID mode for the HLT so I shouldn't have any issues with throwing the temp probe calibration off.

Adam
 
A question and a comment. First the comment: I like how you've wired it to use the same, single PID - for both the Kettle Auto mode and the Pump Auto mode. Smart thinking and a good way to keep PID/parts cost down. Also, good mounting method on to the brew stand, looks very well built & rugged!

Question: What is the small silver round part, found on the left side of the enclosure, nearest to the Kettle Mode Switch? I can't see it in enough detail to tell what I'm looking at.

Thanks & Cheers!
 
The knob on the left side is a pot that controls the power to the element via the phase angle SSR. In order to use this analog power control feature in conjunction with the PID for temp control I use a relay output PID which controls the 220v contactor to enable/disable power to the heating element. This is similar to the EBC concept and allows me to set the element to 50% power for temp control during the mash. I can hit my strike temp within 1 deg F with the PID in simple relay on/off mode. Not autotune and PWM required.

My pump is a low power 12v DC model using <1amp at 120v for the wall wort. I actually run this through the PID relay with the pump auto mode to have the pump run whenever the element is on. I thought it might be useful during the mash. For a more powerful pump, you would probably need an extra relay or different wiring setup.

Schematic of my design is on the first page of the thread.
 
Ahhhh I see it now! I didn't have my bearings / was looking for the wrong thing so I didn't see it at first in the pics earlier in the thread. Looks just like a guitar pot. Awesome. Thanks.

At first I thought it was some kind of pressure relief valve? :drunk: Seriously, with the style of knob, somehow it looks like it belongs on a corny keg! :)
 
Nice setup. I've been eyeing the EBCIII also and wondering what it would cost to just build a copy of it. Do you mind sharing how much it cost you to build that control panel? Do you have a basket inside the to hold your BIAB bag off of the heating element? I already have a 15.5 gal keggle and a 15 gal pot, a plate chiller and a march pump so I really just need the control panel and converting my pot of keggle to electric.

Nice work!:rockin:
 
A basic eBIAB panel, element, and wiring can be done for about $300. Note that I didn't spend >$50 for an RTD sensor w/ multiple connections, etc. This also assumes you have access to 240v power.

I bought a basket originally but didn't like the way it fit in my kettle with the element so I don't use it. Had one issue where I burned a hole in the bag so now I put a silicon sheet between the element and the bag for insurance.
 
jCOSbrew,

Could you post a parts list? I have most everything already, but I'm having trouble tracking down DIN rail mountable phase angle SSR and contactor like you have in your build pics. I sent you a PM about it, but figured the whole community might benefit from that information. Great build btw. I just wish there was a parts list for some of your stuff.

Thanks
 
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