Noob Keezer Build

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sheep_Dog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
175
Reaction score
2
Location
Blowing Rock
Good news.... Wife said she would get me a keg kit for my Keezer for Christmas. :rockin:

But the noob that I am I have a few questions, I'm sure I'll have many more before it's completed.

1. I'm going to do a 4 keg Keezer, 3 CO2 and 1 Beer gas. With the 3 CO2 system should I get a reg per keg or use one reg with a manifold to supply all three? I'm thinking is will be easier to force carb with a reg for each keg.

2. I want to try to keep the CO2 and Beer Gas on the outside of the Keezer, leaving more room for BEER!!!! Should I also leave the regs on the outside, pushing four lines through the collar or put the regs inside and only push two lines through?

That's all I can come up with for now, there will be many more! I hope to hear back from Kegconnection soon, as I asked for a price on this custom kit.

Thanks for you help!
 
Personal preference I'd run a main regulator outside with a line from those in to separate regulators in the keezer. That way you'd not have to buy an expensive tube to go from your CO2 tank to the regs but could feed 30# or in one regular plastic tube and split inside.
 
yeah, if your doing the gas outside definitely keep the regulators there too. High pressure hose is VERY expensive, but the regular braided stuff post regulator isn't. As far as the collar goes I can't really help you much with that as I did towers on my keezer.

Good luck and post pics when its done!
 
I have a tower on mine, so no collar. I prefer having everything on the inside to it looks nice and neat. For the sake of cost, I would just go with a manifold instead of individual regs. When I force carb I shut off the check valve to the other keg and boost the pressure up. When I'm done shaking in the CO2, I reduce the pressure back to normal and open up the other valve. After the force carbed keg has sat for a while, I'll come back and vent the pressure so it doesn't spew out of the tap at 30psi. While individual regs would be neat, they are hardly necessary and would just add extra money that could be spent elsewhere. I've got the 7.2cf freezer from home depot and it fits 4 kegs + 5lb tank no problem. It could easily hold another gas tank too.
 
Oh,and you're a lucky man!

I'm not getting off that easy, had to drop a few bills yesterday on some ski pants and cold weather backpacking gear for her. Well I guess I am lucky in that she tolerates it!

I have a tower on mine, so no collar. I prefer having everything on the inside to it looks nice and neat. For the sake of cost, I would just go with a manifold instead of individual regs.

She's buying I'm going to ask for the world and hope I get enough to get me by.... :D


4. What is this expensive high pressure hose that a couple of you speak of? I take it that it's not the red gas hose, what's the max PSI on that hose?


Thanks again for all your help!
 
4. What is this expensive high pressure hose that a couple of you speak of? I take it that it's not the red gas hose, what's the max PSI on that hose?

If you remote mount the regulator you have to use a very thick hose capable of handling the full pressure of the bottle (1000psi or so? ) The red stuff is only for post regulator like the 15-30 psi you use.
 
8406.jpg


Found here ($62- I think it was $68). It mounts to tank, and then you take the reverse thread tank mount of the regulator and attaches to in on regulator.

I spent the cash on one so I could swap between my 20# and 5# in my Sanyo 4912 with not worrying about the gauges as much (my cat could probably take down my 5#, and probably will... That would suck). Now if I could find a elbow for NPT or 1/4 flare thread I could mount it on the door where I want it.
 
Sheep Dog, I'm in the middle of assembling my keezer as well. I read on here from one of the experts to go with 8 feet of 3/16", which you can boil the ends of and stick on 1/4" nipples making clamps unnecessary.

If you with 1/4" you'll need longer hoses to get the right pour. If you look at all the pictures of the keezers in the galleries, many have entended hoses which are neatly tied up above the kegs.
 
Thanks Joety! After a little more research I think I'll go with the 3/16".

6. I would love a beer gas system as well, but I'm wondering if I have to get a different tank. I've noticed that the Nitro Regs all have a different tank fitting. Can I just get a standard tank and CO2 reg to use for Beer Gas?
 
Ok I believe I have dug out the answer to question six. It seems that the regulators are all the same. The only difference is the type of fitting for the tanks. That being said it appears that some Beer Gas suppliers will put Beer Gas in CO2 tanks and some won't. So in the end I need to find out what my local supplier suggest.
 
+1 on the 3/16 line on 1/4 barbs- I had my lines clamped before, for safety, but when I upgraded to 10FT lines, I didn't clamp. No leaks.

If you go beer gas (25%CO2 75%Nitrogen), make sure you get a nice stout faucet!
 
I'm thinking of adding another tap to my fridge. Can I just split the air line after the regulator or will I need a few more pieces and parts? Thanks in advance
 
Perlicks are nice because they do not build up "goop" that forward sealing faucets do. If you look at a forward sealing faucet, the nub on the top is the "piston" that allows beer through. On a perlick, it's all enclosed and doesn't stick or build up gunk. Upgraded mine and don't regret it in the least!

OhioGuy- You can certainly split after the regulator! They make Y adapters (or distributor blocks) just for this. The only thing to keep in mind, is that they will be the same pressure. Not a problem for serving most beers, but some brewers prefer multiple regs so they can force carb and serve simultaneously.
 
the cylinder is exactly the same for beer gas and co2. well...not exactly, but close enough. the valves are different, but you can use a co2 valve for co2 or the nitro mix. they all hold the same pressure. we sell both regs, and the only difference is the nut and nipple that attach to the tank.

i am not familiar with nitro systems, but i think you have to run a higher pressure(something like 20-30 psi instead of 10-12 psi) i am sure someone out there knows more than i do.

if you have any questions at all regarding cylinders let me know.
 
Beer gas (sometimes referred to as Guiness Gas)- 25% CO2, 75% Nitrogen. Micromatic explains it somewhat, but if you plan to do stouts a lot (and have a place that can fill/sell beer gas) definitely worth the investment. Haven't had homebrew from it, invite me over when you get it?
 
Homebrew stouts work fine on either beer gas or regular CO2. The only reason to run beer gas is if your going to do a stout faucet with a restrictor disc. This disc forces you to run the gas at 30 lbs or so, which if done with standard CO2 would overcarb the beer unless you bled the excess pressure off after serving.

I recommend trying a stout without it first. My initial plan was just like yours because I love good stouts, but I found that I could get a good creamy head without the stout faucet, so I am going for the extra versatility of all standard faucets (well, except the one beer engine for my English ales)
 
Perlicks are nice because they do not build up "goop" that forward sealing faucets do. If you look at a forward sealing faucet, the nub on the top is the "piston" that allows beer through. On a perlick, it's all enclosed and doesn't stick or build up gunk. Upgraded mine and don't regret it in the least!

OhioGuy- You can certainly split after the regulator! They make Y adapters (or distributor blocks) just for this. The only thing to keep in mind, is that they will be the same pressure. Not a problem for serving most beers, but some brewers prefer multiple regs so they can force carb and serve simultaneously.

MoRoToRiUm - Thanks. Maybe something like this?

Air Distributer - 3 way, 5/16" Check Valves!

To carb a keg, I'm thinking that I can shut off the air valves to the other kegs. Raise the air pressure to the keg to be carbed. Upon completion, shut that air valve. Lower the air pressure, and open valves to the other kegs. Any problems with that procedure? Don't want to re-invent the wheel.
 
MoRoToRiUm - Thanks. Maybe something like this?

Air Distributer - 3 way, 5/16" Check Valves!

To carb a keg, I'm thinking that I can shut off the air valves to the other kegs. Raise the air pressure to the keg to be carbed. Upon completion, shut that air valve. Lower the air pressure, and open valves to the other kegs. Any problems with that procedure? Don't want to re-invent the wheel.

That will work just fine!

I normally have a stout on tap, works just fine with CO2 :mug:
 
Originally Posted by MoRoToRiUm
Perlicks are nice because they do not build up "goop" that forward sealing faucets do. If you look at a forward sealing faucet, the nub on the top is the "piston" that allows beer through. On a perlick, it's all enclosed and doesn't stick or build up gunk. Upgraded mine and don't regret it in the least!

Mo, I ordered and just received the forward sealing perlicks. Would you NOT recommend those?
 
I wouldn't say I don't recommend them, but forward sealing ones are the way to go...

133462

Perlick Stainless Steel Beer Faucet - Superior Products

If you use your faucets a lot, you won't notice the difference. There are other threads on it, which is where I got the source where I bought mine (posted above- cheapest other then lucky ebay score, that I've seen).
 
Sorry, I obviously misread your post. You ARE recommending forward sealing. I ordered four of the faucets from your link, but the big red "knobs not included" sign was not there when I ordered them so I still have some shopping to do.
 
On additional question for the Keezer Build experts while we are on the topic.

I added a quick release connection from my regulator/tank to the manifold. I put another male end on an extra hose/keg connector for when I need to clean and maintain the tanks. Looking at the quick release, which seems identical to the ones I have in my shop for my air compressor equipment, I don't see any gaskets. As a long term setup, do the quick release connections lose any air/CO2?
 
You have any pics of the interior? Starting my planning and trying to figure out the right size. Thanks!!
 
Back
Top