Will this work? Thoughts.

http://beertribe.com/forum/index.php?topic=1278.0

I am looking to make a electric brew pot, because I live in an apartment. Will this work? Would the glue be bad for the beer? Whats your thoughts.

Brewer_Chad said:

http://beertribe.com/forum/index.php?topic=1278.0

I am looking to make a electric brew pot, because I live in an apartment. Will this work? Would the glue be bad for the beer? Whats your thoughts.

Click to expand...

Looks sketchy. I'm no electrician though.

Probably should research whether boiling water in plastic will leach components of the bucket into your brew.

http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/catalog/detailV2_8.asp?itemid=TEN20027293&catid=HA20225648

I also found this commercial plastic brew bucket.

http://www.jimsbeerkit.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17188

Found it here.

HDPE has a working temperature of 212 degrees F - 220 degrees F under low load conditions and it may be autoclaved at sterilizable temperatures. From what I understand low load means it can maintain that tempter for up to 120 minuets constantly with out any brake down of the bucket. In this case a person should be able to maintain a 60 min boil without any off flavors as long as the tempter was kept at 212.

http://www.polymerplastics.com/corrosion_polyeth.shtml

It also says they can be sterilized which would be temps of 121–132 °C (250–270 °F) for 60 minutes or 134 °C (273 °F) for at least 18 minutes with out plastic brake down. So bringing water to a boil for 60 min should not harm the liquid inside the bucket. I don't know about the PVC and Glue that guy is using that cant be good in the boil.

Problem is, the max service temp for PVC is 140 deg.

http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/HeatStk3.htm

I might make some of these or just figure out another way to mount the water heating element without using P.V.C. Any ideas?

http://brewery.org/library/ElectBrKS0396.html

Found this also.

My concern would be safety. It's very difficult to properly ground a plastic bucket, and thus if you get something that decides to charge your wort/water to 120 or 240 VAC and you stick your metal stir spoon in it or your hand, you're going to have a bad day.... if its in a metal container that is grounded the GFCI will most likely pop by it shorting to ground before it shorts through you (you have a higher resistance and things like to take the path of least resistance).

It's not like it's a death trap, but it's definitely less safe than a metal brew pot.

Your right I do need to figure out a way to ground this thing. I would buy a metal brew pot but I am low on cash; being a college student sucks. Cant use a turkey fryer in this apartment, and they are pricey. Making two 2.5 gallon batches of home brew on the stove sucks. It is very inconsistent.

I have come up with this design.

7 gallon 100mil Bucket; I got an extra.

120 volt 1500 watt Hot Water Heater Element. $10.00 I found a 2000 watt I could use too.

1in copper female adapter fitting to attach to bucket. $8.00

1in pvc cap to put on the outside of the bucket to cover exposed wires on the heating element. $1.00

Extension cord with ground to wire the element with.

Food Grade silicone sealant DAP 70512 has a working temp of 440 degrees use it to seal off the inside and outside of the bucket, element, etc.

Any suggestions on how to ground this thing?

It takes one BTU to raise one pound of water 1 degree.

6 gallons of water weighs nearly exactly 50 pounds

You have to raise that water 142 degrees, you report.

That will require 7100 BTU's

Your 1500 watt element will provide 5120 btu/hr.

It will take approximately 1 hour and 23 minutes to bring 6 gallons of water, starting at 70 degrees, to a boil with a 1500 watt heating element.

I might go with the 2000 watt to cut down time.

Brewer_Chad said:

It will take approximately 1 hour and 23 minutes to bring 6 gallons of water, starting at 70 degrees, to a boil with a 1500 watt heating element.

I might go with the 2000 watt to cut down time.

Click to expand...

And that assumes ZERO heat loss. 2KW tops out at about 5 gallons of boiling. Gotta go 240V for more (or multiple elements).

I asked a question on a forum they were nice it you would like to see it look here.

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/will-work-help-13310/

The only reason I am shying away from multiple elements is because I want to be able to take it to friends houses for brew in's. Any one have any thoughts on grounding, or a fuse for this thing.

Brewer_Chad said:

It takes one BTU to raise one pound of water 1 degree.

6 gallons of water weighs nearly exactly 50 pounds

You have to raise that water 142 degrees, you report.

That will require 7100 BTU's

Your 1500 watt element will provide 5120 btu/hr.

It will take approximately 1 hour and 23 minutes to bring 6 gallons of water, starting at 70 degrees, to a boil with a 1500 watt heating element.

I might go with the 2000 watt to cut down time.

Click to expand...

For 2000 Watts you also need a 20 Amp circuit or you will keep popping the circuit breaker.

I will check on the circuit Amperage thanks I haven't thought of that.

Just checked my breaker box they are all 20 Amp, so I should be good.

http://www.mhi-inc.com/Converter/watt_calculator.htm

Found this its pretty handy stuff.

This sort of stuff has been discussed to death in the heatstick thread.

1500W won't get the job done for you. 2000W will get it done very slowly.... like.... 2 hours to get your boil started if it can even manage to do it at all.

Folks using the 120V/2000W heatsticks seem to be using 2 of them (4000W total) to get 6 gallons boiling and then turn one off an maintain that boil with 2000W.